近日杜洛儿香槟150周年环球庆典，Carol DUVAL-LEROY女士来到中国。2010年5月18日，杜洛儿香槟的总代理EMW(由东到西)特别在瑜舍酒店内北餐厅内举办了一场主题香槟午餐。
On the occasion of the recent Champagne Duval-Leroy 150 years anniversary, Carol DUVAL-LEROY came to China. EMW, the general agent of Champagne Duval-Leroy held a Champagne themed lunch at Bei Restaurant at The Opposite House on May 18th, 2010.
EMW的Wendy也约我前往。2008年3月应CIVC邀请去香槟区访问，其间一站就是杜洛儿香槟庄（Maison Duval – Leroy），当时印象颇深的是门前和室内的比利时艺术家的母牛雕塑，还有杜洛儿香槟总裁Carol DUVAL-LEROY女士出的几本香槟美食搭配和烹饪有关的书。当然其香槟稳定的水准，优雅细腻的风格也是记忆犹新。
EMW’s wendy invited me to go together. In March 2008, I was invited by CIVC to champagne area for a visit, and Maison Duval – Leroy is one stop. What impressed me the most was Belgian artist’s cow sculpture at the front door and indoor, and also some books written by Carol DUVAL-LEROY about champagne food pairing and cooking.
杜洛儿香槟庄（Champagne Duval – Leroy）/ 陆江摄影 Photo by Maxime LU
比利时艺术家的母牛雕塑/ 陆江摄影Photo by Maxime LU
因为08年我去访问时正好Carol外出，没有见到这位香槟区赫赫有名的传奇女性，这次也算有机会补了缺憾。
For Carol was out when I visited in 2008, I regretted that I didn’t met this famous and legendary female in champagne area. Finally, I got an opportunity to see her this time.
建于1859年的杜洛儿香槟是完全家族掌控经营的企业，位于布朗产区(Cote des Blancs)中央的韦尔第村(Vertus)。杜洛儿香槟酒庄自有相当规模的葡萄种植园，大约200公顷的种植面积。在香槟地区位列十大香槟庄之一，也是大型香槟酒庄里，最后一个家族式独立经营的酒庄。有40%的产量来自特级(Grands Crus)或是一级产区(Premiers Crus).
Established in 1859, Champagne Duval-Leroy is a family business located at Vertus which is in the center of Cote des Blancs. With two hundred hectares of vines, Maison Duval – Leroy is one of the biggest champagne Maison, and also the last family-run business among grand chateaux. 40% of its wine productions are from Grands Crus or Premiers Crus.
5月18日我准时来到三里屯瑜舍酒店，融合博物馆和自然的新派酒店，也许是巧合，风格倒和杜洛儿香槟DUVAL-LEROY香槟庄在我脑海中的形象一致。
On May 18th, I went to The Opposite House at Sanlitun on time. It’s a new-style hotel combined museum with nature. It reminds me of Maison Duval – Leroy, for its style is in accord with The Opposite House.
入内，来到北餐厅，见到Wendy和一些熟人，几个主流媒体、美食老戴等，一位矍铄的女士颇为引人注目，她就是传说中的Carol.
At Bei Restaurant, I met Wendy, some friends, several media and gourmets. An energetic lady was very impressive. She is Carol.
Carol DUVAL-LEROY, 现任杜洛儿香槟家族企业的主席，在1991年丈夫去世后参与酒庄管理，成为酒庄主席。15年来，她的目标是将杜洛儿香槟打造成为国际名品，使其年产量达到600万至650万瓶之间。生产工艺的提升和现代化，销售渠道的不断拓展，多样化产品系列，以及推动出口量增加，Carol 一直在为之努力。当然，杜洛儿香槟的现在品牌形象，就是她的努力结果。
Carol DUVAL-LEROY is the present president of Champagne Duval-Leroy. After her husband passed away in 1991, she became the chairwoman of chateau and set her a goal which is making Champagne Duval-Leroy to become an international famous brand with annual production between 6 million to 6.5 million. She put efforts on the modernization of production processes, the development of distribution channels, the increased product range and expanded exports. There is no doubt that the present brand image of Champagne Duval-Leroy is the result of her great effort.
Carol非常健谈，很有活力，虽然已是55岁，可完全有着一颗年轻的心，Carol只会法语，所以我有不少时间和她交流。她对烹饪和美食的热爱程度有点出乎我的意料，甚至她自己就是个烹饪好手。Carol不单在香槟酒领域富有盛名，在法国美食领域也是活跃分子，经常和法国的顶尖美食机构和人才合作举办比赛和交流活动。说到我08年的访问，Carol还提到现在企业和葡萄园每年都有发展变化，和2008年有了很大的改变，希望我有机会再去访问她们香槟庄感受一下。我挺期待下次的访问，同时希望有机会试试Carol的手艺。
Carol is very talkative, energetic. Although she is fifty-five years old, she still has a young heart. She could only speak in French, so we spent lots of time in communication. I was surprised by her passion in cooking and food. She is even a good cooker. Carol is not only famous in Champagne field, but also active in the field of French food. She always cooperates with French top food institution and talents to holds competitions and events. When it comes to my visit in 2008, Carol said there is a big difference between the present corporate and vineyard and those in 2008. She hopes I can come and visit their champagne Maison again. I wish I could visit their champagne Maison again, and have a chance to try Carol’s cooking.
言归正传，看着几款各异的主角香槟，我还是颇有期待。尤其压轴的香妃香槟（Champagne Duval Leroy Femme De Champagne）1996，我2008年去访问的时候就曾尝过，当时印象颇深，细腻优雅但又柔中带刚的骨架支撑，超强的陈年潜力。现在时隔两年，不知道是否会有初长成的感悟。这些年杜洛儿香槟的品质发展稳定，已进入不少米其林3星餐厅的酒单。在不少有份量的品评排名中，屡获肯定。
Now I’ll talk about several different types of champagne, especially the last Champagne Duval Leroy Femme De Champagne 1996. I tried it during my visit in 2008. I was impressed by its elegance and power with good acidity and great aging potential. After two years, I am wondering if it ‘grows up’. During these years, Champagne Duval-Leroy has made steady progress in quality, and entered into the wine list of many 3 star Michelin restaurants. It gained recognition in many important ratings of wine tasting competitions.
本次一共有4款香槟，都是不同定位的代表酒款。
There are 4 types of typical champagne with different positioning
1. 杜洛儿香槟（花香风格）（Champagne Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Brut ）NV
淡金黄色，泛着微微的绿意；气泡细致，略微充沛涌动；柚子和淡淡红莓果类的气息，还有矿物的味道；适中的酸度，平衡的口感，气泡活力跳动，颇有力度，回味中长；
Light gold color with a slight green; full of delicate bubbles; a nose of grapefruit and subtle red berries, mineral flavor; moderate acidity, well balanced, vital bubbles, full of power, medium-long finish
一款有一定复杂度的清爽干净的香槟。用了75% 黑比诺(Pinot Noir)和25% 莎当妮(Chardonnay), 平心而论，虽然是基本款产品，在同类香槟中还是实力前茅。
It’s a type of fresh champagne with a certain complexity, using the blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Although it’s a typical wine, it stands out among the same types of champagne.
2. 莎当妮香槟（Champagne Duval-Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay）1998
金黄绿色，细腻持久的气泡，悠悠升腾；柑橘类水果的气息，层层透出坚果、黄油、烘烤的味道，还有白花的芬芳；圆润饱满，恰当的酸度带来平衡清新的口感，感受到气泡爆裂温柔但不失力度，富有一定层次感，回味长。
Golden-green color, delicate and lasting bubbles; a nose of citrus fruits, underlying layers of nuts, butter, toast flavors, aroma of white flowers; mellow and full, moderate acidity brings a balance and fresh mouth feel, soft bubble bursting feeling but with power, good in layers, long finish.
这款实力香槟，产自100%莎当妮, 已逐渐开始进入适饮期，可以即时享用，也有不弱的继续陈年实力。
This wine uses 100% Chardonnay. It has just begun to enter into its drinking period. It’s good to drink right away, but also has great aging potential.
3. Champagne Duval Leroy Femme De Champagne香妃香槟 1996
淡金黄色泽，气泡持久纤细，有着饼干，柚子，香草、矿物、白花以及甜桔的气息，复杂但仍有些封闭；优雅细腻，较强的酸度支撑，非常平衡，没有一丝尖酸的感觉，中重酒体，恰当圆润，气泡细腻在舌面跳动，柔和有力，颇具层次感，优雅展现贯穿的力度，只是还有点收敛。余味很长。
Light gold color, delicate and lasting bubbles, complex yet closed nose of biscuit, grapefruit, vanilla, white flowers and sweet orange; elegance with good acidity, great balance, medium-heavy bodied, round mouth feel, soft and powerful bubble bursting feeling, good in layers, persistent power but a little closed, the long finish.
这还是一款处在蓄势待发的上等香槟，有超强的陈年实力，现在有些封闭，不够绽放，如果能适当醒酒，相信效果会提升不少。这款比前面1998年的那款白香槟，有更好更强大的继续陈年实力。相信过10来年后再来欣赏，会更有成熟韵味，是款经典之作。
It’s a type of superior champagne with great aging potential. Now it still a little closed and has not fully blossomed. If it can be decanted appropriately, the effect may be improved a lot. This wine has better aging potential than the last one in 1998. I believe 10 years later, it may be more mature and become a classic wine.
葡萄品种是21% 黑比诺，79% 莎当妮。原料来自5个Grand Cru级的地块。
This wine uses the blend of 21% Pinot Noir and 79% Chardonnay.
4. 玫瑰红香槟NV（Duval-Leroy Rosé de saignée NV）
三文鱼色，气泡细致充沛，均匀持久；有着迷人的山楂花、覆盆子，以及樱桃的芬芳；入口圆润，充沛的气泡在轻盈舞动，酸度适中，平衡厚重，有较好结构感，层次分明，中长回味；
Salmon color, full of delicate and lasting bubbles; aromas of Camellia, raspberry and cherry; round mouth feel, full of bursting bubbles, moderate acidity, well-balanced, rich with good structure, medium-long aftertaste.
用到100%的黑皮诺。色香味俱佳的一款！
This wine uses 100% Pinot Noir. It’s a wine showing perfect color, aromas and taste.
关于菜食搭配，香槟本是百搭配酒，可以从头到尾搭配完整西式筵席，由于感受参差，就没有特别记录评述。
For wine and food pairing, champagne is good with most of food. It could match a whole western dinner from the beginning to the end. Because of distinct feelings, I didn’t make particular notes about it.
最后特别要提一下的是瑜舍酒店北餐厅的酒具，用的是上好的德国肖特Zwiesel 1872手工香槟杯，和今天杜洛儿香槟细腻优雅风格搭配相得益彰。
(2010-05-30 11:41:52)