葡萄酒学习建议和世界级学霸经验分享

 葡萄酒入门建议和世界级学霸经验分享

陆江(Maxime LU) 图文      王智慧(Serien)编辑

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经常被问到初涉葡萄酒如何有效学习,我往往根据具体情况给出建议。一般有两类爱好者:

第一类,占绝大部分,对葡萄酒有好感,但对葡萄酒知识的深入了解,并无强烈愿望,可能是喜欢那种感觉,时尚格调,社交之用或是喝酒的快感。这类朋友,我一般只建议他们学些常识,如葡萄酒的定义,常见分类,正确喝酒温度,如何保存,以及品酒的基本方法,观色闻香品味等,还有些常见的诸如酒柱、香槟、年份等高频出现的热点词。目标是在社交场合不露怯,日常中不会发生暴殄天物的“毁酒惨事”,有些皮毛的买酒识酒知识。只要不遇到“多事”的玩家,也能在零起点人群中树立高大上“懂酒”形象。所花时间只需几日,不过已足够应付大部分场合。这类可以自学或是报个几百到一两千元的基础班,当然课后消化也是关键。

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Gerard Basset在向侍酒师选手提问 / 陆江拍摄

还有一类,少数,但对学习葡萄酒知识很有热情,希望尽快从零起点学习到系统掌握葡萄酒,属于典型的中国理工科学习思维,有着知其所以然的钻研精神。每次我玩笑说,理工科的吧?绝大多数情况都猜对。回过头来说,葡萄酒涉及范围极广,繁多的学科分支,那么多产区。使短期速成系统知识,变得完全不可能。当然通过考试拿个好看的证书……,你懂的,中国学生战力全球绝对前茅。

真正对葡萄酒感兴趣的爱好者,我会建议在学习葡萄酒常识基础上,买一本最新版的《世界葡萄酒地图》,全球绝大部分产区都有介绍,而且还有一定深度,首先选择从最热点的产区学起,因为该产区酒容易得到,应用和巩固机会多,容易获得成就感,促使进一步学习。当然自学能力弱,荷包够鼓,不妨选择在中国最普及的英国WSET考级体系,对于非从业者,考到2、3级就可以,考试不重要,最重要是学习过程,平时多参加主题品酒或产区课,理论联系实际,随着涉猎的推进,功力自然也在积累,但始终记住一点,酒届藏龙卧虎,切忌张狂。

可巧,今年北京举行的香格里拉全球侍酒师大赛上,我遇到了新任香格里拉全球葡萄酒大使Gerard Basset。在专访他的同时,我也把这个关于葡萄酒学习的问题,也捎带提出,寻求他的建议和经验分享。

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Gerard Basset(右)

Gerard说,其实对于爱好者,他也是类似的建议,首先通过诸如WSET这类考级体系,比较全面地学习基础知识;然后要读好书,选经典严谨的葡萄酒书籍,以及杂志,坚持规律阅读。因为书能完善知识体系,杂志能让知识体系与时俱进;还有如果经济上允许的话,尽量要去走访葡萄酒产区,这能够获得对产区的整体认识和了解,而且非常重要的是,要去和当地的人打交道,了解最一手、最准确的知识和理念,要去感受当地的风土人情,还有美食和文化。就像他自己经常去波尔多、马德拉,每一次去都有不少收获。

Gereard Basset

至于我为什么要把这问题和Gerard Basset讨教,我顺便介绍一下这位国际酒界的顶级学霸。

他是现今国际酒界几位最炙手可热的大师级人物之一。第一次听到他的名字是2010年的全球侍酒师大赛冠军,当然这是从新闻里看到,陆续又知道他的经历。最早,是法国小地方来的其貌不扬的小子,有着英国发展梦,可因为没证也没资历,只好回法国学了厨师证,靠着一手不赖的厨艺闯荡英伦。不过因缘际会,走上了葡萄酒道路,从此天赋和勤奋发力,一发不可收拾地攻城略地,获得了一个又一个的葡萄酒世界的塔尖证书和头衔,亮闪闪的极有含金量的葡萄酒大师(MW)和侍酒师大师(MS)头衔,还读了葡萄酒MBA,2011年还获得英国军官勋章(OBE),又是现任葡萄酒与烈酒基金会(WSET)的名誉主席和侍酒师大师理事会(CMS)主席。是典型的励志哥成长史。每每看到这位考证狂人,总觉得是位智商和记忆超常的“非正常人类”,应该是周星驰电影《功夫》里非正常人类研究所里的人物。难能可贵的是他除专业上的强劲实力,在运营酒店方面颇为成功,是公认的该领域的杰出商业人才。由于他难得的兼备顶尖商业和专业能力,以及在推动行业发展方面的贡献,2013年Gerard获得了《Decanter》杂志提名为年度人物。

Gereard Basset

陆江(左)​Gerard Basset(右)

中国葡萄酒市场与教育推广

中国葡萄酒市场与教育推广

 陆江(Maxime LU)/ 万欧兰文化

本文版权属于Prowine China,转载请标明出处“Prowine China”

 

近十年来,中国葡萄酒市场以其庞大市场潜力和较快发展速度,受到全球大多数产区国的重视和努力介入,也吸引了不少资本进入这个市场。但是从2012年开始,中国政府采取限制三公消费的政策,加之近年来经济增速放缓,以及行业浮躁盲目的冒进积累,导致中国葡萄酒市场快速进入回调期。2013年葡萄酒进口总量,相比2012年下降4.46%,而今年2014年上半年的葡萄酒进口量与去年同期相比下降了12.8%。  

  原来葡萄酒市场主要聚焦在公务消费和集团消费上,团购送礼宴请占主要市场份额,现在随着三公限制和经济走缓后,这块市场急剧萎缩,这时个人型消费又重新回到市场关注焦点。而现在面临的市场调整,之所以表现那么惨烈,是因为市场环境变化突然,其效果有点硬着陆的意味。在这剧变中,不少商家受到冲击,尤其是太过依赖团购或公务消费的酒商,业绩影响显著,少数遭受灭顶之灾。不过对于中国葡萄酒市场,其实是有利有弊。在短期内它会是个剧烈阵痛,从长远来说,提前到来的硬着陆,以及价值回归,对整个行业的拨乱反正效果也很明显。  

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葡萄酒教室/陆江摄

面对个人消费和价值回归的市场发展方向,行业里一些有远见的企业反应迅速,过去一年中,一方面灵活调整价格体系和销售方式以适应个人消费的特点,另一方面,调整市场推广策略,在不景气的行情中积极采取措施,挖掘市场,尤其是通过加大不同形式的葡萄酒教育力度,开发培养新老客户,创造需求,挖掘新的消费点。像进口葡萄酒行业里的翘楚企业ASC,富隆,也买网,华致等都明显加大提升葡萄酒教育团队或市场部门的专业能力的力度,积极对外合作,从常规的葡萄酒系统课程,到不同的产区课,还有丰富多样的大师班,在企业和品牌推广、客户开发中达到事半功倍的效果。  

  另外,整体葡萄酒市场虽然从进口额和进口量上看似不太景气,可事实上现在市场开始理性,前几年冲动盲目压的货数量不少,今年都在消化调整中,看市场里冒出数量不少的尾货或甩货就能大概知道原委。其实个人消费量的增加也很明显。这点可以从主要面向个人消费的葡萄酒电商的销售量的持续快速增长,窥豹一斑。另一方面,从葡萄酒教育市场本身的蓬勃发展也能看出端倪。各地大师班,产区课的开课数增长迅速。还有葡萄酒系统课程的参与者,以英国WSET课程为例在大陆短短十年左右的发展,特别是最近两三年,学生数量增长快速,现在中国市场已是WSET的全球最大生源国之一,由于需求旺盛,各地授课点的数量还在不断增加。 

 

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品酒会/陆江摄 

  与此同时,在中国葡萄酒市场中意图分取更大份额的国外产区也在寻求突破口,其中官方产区课,以及国际葡萄酒大师开设的大师班,就是行之有效的突破方式。现在中国市场上销售额占据前两位的法国和澳大利亚,就是产区课推广中的佼佼者。 

  法国从上世纪九十年代末就开始进入中国市场,是在中国最早实行产区课程教育的国家,尤其在2007年开始进行的波尔多葡萄酒学校讲师认证项目和官方课程的推出,将业内有影响力的专业人士变为波尔多的官方讲师-推广大使,这分布各地的数十位官方讲师每年有相应的培训量要求,从而通过几十位的讲师将产区知识不断地传播到全国各地的从业者和葡萄酒爱好者。这一模式也逐渐被其它产区在借鉴,其中最成功的是澳洲A+产区课程,他们用更多的讲师支持力度和激励机制,使澳大利亚A+课程的推广效果在很短时间内就赶上波尔多,甚至有超越之势,当然市场也给了相应的回报。此外产区或葡萄酒庄,也可以采用和有影响力的展会,以及本地教育机构合作的形式,开设大师班,品鉴会等形式,选择特定的传播受众,如葡萄酒讲师,媒体,消费意见领袖等,也能收到上佳的效果。如在即将到来的ProWine China酒展上就会有相应的葡萄酒课程。  

  中国葡萄酒市场似乎是萧条冰封之际,可冰层下面蕴含着勃勃生机和蓄势待发,这主要推力之一,就是对消费者和从业者的葡萄酒教育。葡萄酒教育能让这个市场更加理性,更加健康,也更有商机。

 

Prowine China展会期间的同期活动的介绍页面链接:http://www.prowinechina.com/channels/169.html                           

 

 

Wine Market and Education Promotion in China

 – LU Jiang (Maxime) / WineSchool China –

 

Due to the great potential and rapid growth of China’s wine market, the past decade has witnessed the attention and participation from most wine producing countries worldwide. Much investment has flown into the market. However, in 2012 the Chinese government has adopted the policy of restricting three public consumptions (oversea trips, vehicles and banquets). Furthermore, sluggish economic growth and rash investment in the sector has made conducting business in China’s wine market a bleaker landscape more challenging. Wine imports have decreased by 4.46% (YOY) in 2013 and by 12.8% (YOY) in the first half of 2014.

Official and corporate consumption used to be the bulk of Chinese wine sales. Corporate purchases, gift-giving and dinners occupied the lion’s share of the market. By restricting three public consumptions combined with a stagnating economy, the relevant market share shrank dramatically. Individual consumption has become the focus of the market. The market changed unexpectedly and eventually experienced a hard landing. During the change, many dealers suffered greatly as they relied heavily on corporate or official consumption. Sales dropped remarkably and some dealers even retreated from the Chinese market. Nevertheless, the outlook for the industry is mixed. In short term, the drastic changes will unsettle dealers, but in the long run the industry’s hard landing and the value return will contribute to a healthy contraction and eventually higher quality standards of the Chinese wine industry. 

As for individual consumption and the market orientation for value return, some witty entrepreneurs have acted swiftly. Over the past year, they have flexibly readjusted the pricing and sales strategies to cater for personal consumption. On the other hand, they have improved marketing strategies and taken measures to explore the market against the bleak backdrop. They, in particular, have devoted much effort in education campaigns by cultivating regular customers and newcomers, creating demand and exploring new fields of consumption. Leading wine import businesses like ASC, Aussina World Wines, yesmywine.com and Vats Liquor have put much effort into capacity building in their education teams or marketing departments. They have initiatively cooperated with others to conduct standard systematic courses, different courses on wine regions and various master courses. Their efforts pay off in the promotion of enterprises and brands and customer development.

Although the wine market’s outlook seems to be grim in terms of imports and exports as a whole, the market is becoming more rational. The stockpile out of indiscriminate purchase is being consumed this year, as we can see from a lot of leftover stock or bargains. Actually, personal consumption has increased obviously, which can be seen by soaring e-commerce sales. On the other hand, the burgeoning growth of the wine education market manifests this trend. Master courses and courses on wine regions are on the rise. There are participants of wine systematic courses. Take WSET course from Britain as an example. After the past decade’s growth, especially for the last 2-3 years, their student numbers have increased rapidly. Nowadays, China is one of the largest providers for WSET students. Due to the strong demand, sites of lecturing are on the rise.

Meanwhile, oversea wine producers are trying to break bottleneck in an effort to pursue larger market shares in China. Among their efforts, official courses on winegrowing regions and master courses lectured by international wine masters are effective in practice. France and Australia, top sellers in the Chinese market, are two leading promoters for courses on wine regions.

France found its way into China in the late 1990s. As a pioneer of introducing courses  on wine growing regions, France has initiated accreditation of lecturers of the Bordeaux Wine School and introduced official courses in 2007. Professionals with industrial influence have turned to be official lecturers-promotion ambassadors. Dozens of those official lecturers are required to offer training programs of certain amount. In that way, they pass on their expertise on wine growing regions to industry players and wine fans across the country. This mode is copied by other wine growing regions. Australia’s A+ course of wine growing regions is the most successful one. Powered by more lecturers’ support and incentives, Australia’s A+ course of wine regions caught up with their Bordeaux counterpart within a short period of time, eventually even surpassing the latter. Australia’s efforts pay off in the market. Besides, wine growing regions or vineyards can offer master courses and organize tasting parties by influential exhibitions or cooperation with local education institutions. They can select particular approaches (like wine lecturers, the media and consumption opinion leaders) to yield favorable results, like the wine courses in the upcoming ProWine China.

China’s wine market is currently in a turmoil. Nevertheless, there are signs of great potential and burgeoning growth. One of the major driving forces is wine education for consumers and industry players. Wine education will make the market more rational and healthier and will also offer more business opportunities.