Decanter Asia Wine Awards judge: Jiang Lu (Maxime LU) – Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛评委: 陆江

Decanter Asia Wine Awards (DAWA) judge: Jiang Lu (Maxime Lu)

Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛评委: 陆江

 

Jiang Lu, founder and chief wine advisor of Wineonline.cn based in Beijing, is a judge in the Decanter Asia Wine Awards (DAWA).

DAWA judge: Jiang Lu

DAWA judge: Jiang Lu (Maxime)

Jiang Lu (Maxime Lu) is the founder and chief wine editor of Wineonline.cn and has been running a wine club based in Beijing since 2005.  He is also the founder and chief wine educator of Wineschool.cn since 2006, and the founder and core contributor for Wineblogchina.com since 2011. Jiang Lu is a columnist for ProWine China nad 1756Chile in China.

A member of several blind tasting panels for publications including RVF China, Food & Wine (China), Wine in China, and a regular wine judge for international and domestic wine competitions, Jiang also acts as a consultant for various companies.

Jiang has been visiting the wine regions of USA, Chile, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, France, Italy, Portugal for over 15 years.

Jiang Lu has been a Decanter Asia Wine Awards judge since 2015.

Read more at http://www.decanter.com/dawa/the-dawa-judges/dawa-judge-jiang-lu-270491/

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陆江澳洲维多利亚葡萄酒产区游记(中)

维多利亚州四个子产区:
Bellarine半岛 – Mornington – Bendigo – Heathcote

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

2015年5月24日,今天开始,第一站是Geelong产区内的Bellarine半岛,位于墨尔本西南方,墨尔本出发车程约1个多小时。冷气候,以夏多内,长相思等白品种,以及黑皮诺和冷气候西拉等著称。维州政府部长们也来站台欢迎大家。第一站Scotchmans hill,位于产区的中心位置,是优质的海洋性冷气候葡萄酒的生产商,产区代表酒庄之一,夏朵内白葡萄酒实力不错,最顶级西拉是偏旧世界风格。第二站Jack rabbit标示是两只兔耳朵,识别率很高,产品全面,品质稳定,适合大众市场,还有相当棒的海边餐厅、酒屋和葡萄园景观,是上佳的葡萄酒旅游目的地。中午虽然是冷餐会,不过出品水准的确名副其实。

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Scotchmans hill

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Jack rabbit

在Bellarine半岛试到的这两家黑皮诺,都是单宁偏强,和第一家聊时,他们提到整串带梗放入发酵(并无二氧化碳浸渍过程),发酵和浸皮2周,单宁偏强为了追求较长的陈年实力。

傍晚回到墨尔本下车路边树坑尽是蘑菇丛生,到了Bottega咖啡吧,进行“Rutherglen Muscat & Topaque” 大师班。分别对比四个不同类别的特质差异,维州的加强酒瑰宝,水准相当不弱。

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路过地标的最著名老火车站,还有“爱墙”,墨尔本的夜很美。……

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5月25日,今天去Mornington半岛,墨尔本出发车程约1个半小时,本产区属海洋性气候,夏日多潮湿和雨,但有温和的较长秋季,拉长的成熟季,使葡萄有不错的酸度,细腻单宁,还有丰富的果香风味。过半数种植是黑皮诺,种植黑皮诺历史超过40年,正好和Bellarine产区比较一下。此外本产区夏多内占25%,灰皮诺11%,还有些西拉。

在Paringa Estate酒庄,酒庄有很漂亮的餐厅景观,听庄主介绍Mornington半岛产区概况​,40-300米的海拔差,海洋性气候,不同地区的采摘会最多差2周,据说Mornington半岛的葡萄园地价几乎是全澳最贵的。在Stonier酒庄品鉴本区的夏多内,选出的都是能代表当地典型性和实力的夏朵内,果味清新,结构细致,酸度很好,整体实力相当不错。在PortPhillip品鉴12款本区黑皮诺,和当地的酒庄代表一起午餐尝试餐配酒和相互交流,Mornington产区的黑皮诺,很干净,果味纯净,细腻;另外有些酒庄还带了几款西拉,都是冷气候特点,品质也还不错,以后可以多关注本产区的这些品种。

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Paringa Estate

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Stonier酒庄

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Port Phillip

下午回到墨尔本的酒展,80多家酒庄,维州也组织了国际酒商采购团,遇到不少国内进口商朋友。晚上的站立式品酒餐会,餐酒搭配试了些本地四个主力食材产区(Geelong, Gippsland, Grampians and Macedon)来的大厨的小点……。酒展对面就是墨尔本著名的outlets聚集的购物中心,俺也赶紧添了件外套,准备明天离开墨尔本下乡,走较远的子产区。深秋的维州入夜时,在葡萄园还是挺冷的。

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5月26日,今天上午到达Bendigo产区,墨尔本出发车程不到2小时,在Balgownie酒庄,品鉴数家酒庄的作品:Blackjack, Harcourt Valley, Mandurang Valley, Sandhurst Ridge, Sutton Grange, Turners Crossing, Water Wheel and Balgownie Estate。赤霞珠和西拉子是本地扬名的主力品种。由于夏季有较长的光照时间,本区的干红有相对坚实的单宁骨架,颇具实力。中午就在这家酒庄与本区的酒庄代表们一起午餐交流。

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下午行车40分钟到了不远的Heathcote产区的名庄Jasper hill,绝佳的葡萄园位置,土壤类型得天独厚,有寒武纪土层,很早就实行有机和生物动力。品鉴的酒款是酒庄风土条件差异的上佳展示,如Georgia和Emily(2000升每公顷的产量)两块葡萄园相聚1公里,一样的西拉品种克隆,同一个团队,表现出来差异很大。庄主和法国罗纳巨头M.Chapoutier还有酿酒合作。

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下一站是在Heathcote小镇的酒屋Wine hub,进行本区典型酒的集中品鉴。西拉是本区的代表葡萄品种,不少是介于新旧世界之间的风格。

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行程已过大半,这几天维多利亚州的各子产区密集品鉴,带给我不少惊喜,整体实力超乎我的想象。

5月26日傍晚从Heathcote行程2小时到达雅拉谷,夜宿雅拉谷的Balgownie Estate(和前面Bendigo的同名酒庄是同一家)。

第二天5月27日,我们将走访维州知名度最高的雅拉谷子产区,详情请见【陆江澳洲维多利亚葡萄酒产区游记(下)】

 

欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

 

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,资深葡萄酒和烈酒收藏顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师

 

王智慧(Serien WANG)

– 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者,《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监,万欧兰葡萄酒教育葡萄酒讲师

中国是罗马尼亚葡萄酒的第二大出口市场,你意外吗?

   中国是罗马尼亚葡萄酒的第二大出口市场,你意外吗?
-罗马尼亚葡萄酒与在华推广现状  

文:陆江(Maxime LU)

本文已发布于ProWine China网站专栏,转载请标明出处。

罗马尼亚葡萄酒其实在中国市场曝光率并不高,大部分葡萄酒专业人士和消费者都不太了解这个产区国。不过,如果我提到2012年中国市场已成为罗马尼亚的第一大出口市场,2013年和2014年分别是第二大和第三大市场。过去的2014年,如果以出口额计,中国是罗马尼亚葡萄酒的第二大出口市场。听到这些,估计有不少人会感到惊讶。作为一个实力不弱的产区国,说实话,以前罗马尼亚葡萄酒在中国国内的市场推广活动,除了偶尔有点酒商自发的产品推介活动外,较少有产区组织或是官方机构的声音发出。

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对于这个相对陌生的产区国,我们首先简单了解一下它的概况。

罗马尼亚现属于欧盟成员国,位于欧洲的东南角,那里也是蓝色多瑙河汇入黑海的区域,有着悠久的酿制葡萄酒的历史,追溯起来超过4000年。相传酒神狄奥尼索斯就居住在这里。罗马尼亚和世界著名精品葡萄酒产区波尔多、勃艮第和皮耶蒙特处于同一纬度带。

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这里种植着众多国际或本土的葡萄品种:

以黑皮诺(Pinot Noir)、梅洛(Merlot)、赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)、西拉(Syrah)、夏朵内(Chardonnay)、灰皮诺(Pinot Gris)、长相思(Sauvignon)等为代表的国际化品种;还有以Feteasca Neagra, Babeasca, Mustoasa de Maderat, Negru de Dragasani、Feteasca Regala, Feteasca Alba, Galbena de Odobesti, Zghihara de Husi、Tamaioasa Romaneasca, Busuioaca de Bohotin等为代表的本土品种。

罗马尼亚红白葡萄酒生产比例在2014年的数据为:白葡萄酒占61%,红葡萄酒占39%。有原产地名号(DOC和IGR)的葡萄酒占28%,日常餐酒占72%。

罗马尼亚从1928年起就是国际葡萄与葡萄酒组织(OIV)的成员,曾在2013年6月还承办的36届世界葡萄与葡萄酒代表大会。

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罗马尼亚的葡萄种植面积在欧盟成员国里排第五位;葡萄产量位列第五;葡萄酒的总产量位列第六,在意大利、法国、西班牙、葡萄牙和德国之后。

从全球范围来看,罗马尼亚在葡萄种植面积和葡萄酒产量方面,也位列前15大产区国。

现在罗马尼亚有超过一百万人在从事与葡萄和葡萄酒相关产业的工作。有超过5%的耕地面积在种植葡萄。葡萄种植相关产业约占14%以上的蔬果农业产出。罗马尼亚葡萄酒行业的市场规模约在3.5亿-4.5亿欧元范围内。

我们不难看出罗马尼亚是欧洲颇具实力的老牌葡萄酒生产国,而它在华的“低调”其实和罗马尼亚的葡萄酒市场特殊性,以及以往的市场策略有关。

罗马尼亚是个以内销市场为主的葡萄酒产区国,葡萄酒贸易对外一直存在较大逆差,出口比例很低。以2014年为例,葡萄酒国内产量约为3.84亿升,而国内消费量为4.08亿升,有明显缺口,所以罗马尼亚葡萄酒的进口量约为0.34亿升,而出口量仅为0.104亿升。而从进出口金额来算的话,出口额为1.94千万欧元,而进口额为3.61千万欧元,葡萄酒贸易逆差达1.67千万欧元。

除了以内销为主的原因以外,而且由于政治和历史原因,罗马尼亚在上世纪90年代才开始重返西欧市场。在重点开拓西欧市场的前提下,对遥远的中国市场的关注度相对较低,因此导致罗马尼亚葡萄酒很少在中国市场有推广动作。国内展会上非常偶尔才能看到一两家经营罗马尼亚葡萄酒的公司。而如果通过网络信息检索可以找到的以罗马尼亚葡萄酒为主的进口商也是寥寥无几。这说明,虽然中国已经成为了罗马尼亚葡萄酒出口市场中非常重要的一环,但是国内的经销商更多的还是以辅助及丰富产品线的角度在经营着罗马尼亚葡萄酒。

不过随着中国葡萄酒市场在近10年内的快速崛起,不少与罗马尼亚有关联的华人和资本,开始把目光放到了性价比不错的的罗马尼亚葡萄酒上,虽然没有在华的推介动作,可由于罗马尼亚葡萄酒的一些市场优势,使之在中国市场表现出色。2014年罗马尼亚出口到中国大陆的葡萄酒共有1.18百万升,合一百五十七万瓶。出口到中国大陆市场总金额达到2.8百万欧元,约占罗马尼亚葡萄酒总出口额的17%。国内经营罗马尼亚葡萄酒的进口商,主要以浙江以及广东地区的进口商居多,温州、宁波、深圳等地有几家进口商罗马尼亚葡萄酒的经营规模已经初步显现。

 

而近年来,越来越多罗马尼亚葡萄酒生产商也看中中国市场的庞大和潜力,为了避免欧洲的单一市场风险,也开始积极到中国来参展推广。罗马尼亚葡萄酒协会(APEV ROMANIA)还投入预算,组团参加中国有影响力的葡萄酒展会。如今年(2015)11月在上海举办的ProWine China,就能看到他们的展会专区。

相信在不久的将来,会有越来越多的消费者能享受到罗马尼亚葡萄酒的高品质和多样性。

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欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

 

  陆江(Maxime LU)

  - 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,资深葡萄酒和烈酒收藏顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师

 

  王智慧(Serien WANG)

  - 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者,《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监,万欧兰葡萄酒教育葡萄酒讲师

A Brief Description of Development of Modern Chile Wine Regions

A Brief Description of  Development of Modern Chile Wine Regions

Text & Photo by Maxime LU

After diminishing for 10 years, China’s tariff on Chilean wines has finally been reduce to zero, Chilean wine thus once again become the focus of importers. It also has a special significance: in particular since CCP’s policy to clampdown in gifting to officials and ostentatious display of wealth in 2012; the global economic downturn; the repeatedly tightened country’s economic policy; transformation of the wine market and consumer consumption concept matures. All of these factors have shifted the market from its corporate and official consumption market, to a personal consumption-based market. With its high price-performance and diversity, Chilean wines naturally became more and more the choice of consumers.

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Apalta region/photo by Maxime LU

Chilean wine price-performance is usually the most mentioned advantages, which I will not repeat here, let’s focus on a keypoint of its diversity this time: the timeline of discovery of its wine regions, and its latest development in the “Wild Times” of last four decades. In the last century, due to political and other factors, the development of the Chilean wine industry was slow before 70s, the development of the modern wine industry was basically began in the late 70s, so the last four decades has been a period that represented the development and changes of modern Chilean appellations.

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Let’s briefly introduce Chile and its wine regions here. Chile is a Panhandle land, to the west is the Pacific Ocean, with more than 4000 kilometers of coastline, stretching to the east is the towering Andes, to the south is the Antarctica ice sheet, to the north is the Atacama Desert, Chile is just over 100 km in width averagely and an earthquake-prone zone, which further contributes to its extremely complex and diverse land features, topography, soil types and micro-climate.

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In 1979, the famous Spanish winemaker Miguel Torres (Miguel Torres) arrived Chile and started making wine in Curico valley. His arrival has since opened a new chapter in the Chilean wine industry, which is often considered to be the beginning of modern wine industry. He was the first who introduced the advanced temperature-control stainless steel fermentation tank, French oak barrels, and clones of few varietals, all of these have revolutionized development of both viticulture and wine-making technology of Chile.

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1980s – Started exploring the coastal area and began to develop vineyards at the Andes foothills areas. In 1982, Pablo Morandé opened vineyard in the cold and windy Casablanca Valley after visiting Los Carneros Region, California. (Los Carneros located at the junction of Napa and Sonoma ).

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Then in the 1990s, Chilean gradually developed a new batch of excellent wine regions throughout the country:
1993 – Limari Valley
1993 – Bio Bio Valley
1995 – Malleco Valley
1997 – Elqui Valley
1998 – San Antonio Valley

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In 2007 Fundo Lechagua Winery started up a vineyard at Chiloe Island, more than 1100km south of Santiago. Vina Momberg located near the Lake Districct town of Osorno, started producing Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.

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In 2012, to facilitate management, Chilean Agriculture and Livestock Service (SAG) has declared three official wine producing zone: the coastal area (Costa), the Andes area (Andes) and the between mountain ranges area (Entre Cordilleras), covering areas throughout Chile.

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In 2013, Marcelo Papa, winemaker of Chile’s largest wine group Concha y Toro, mentioned during his interview with Decanter that Chile is constantly in search of suitable terroir to develop vineyard in the new viticultural area, making it one of the world’s most active wine producing countries.

Throughout the last few decades, although Chile has opened up quite a lot wine-producing areas and developed a number of regions with unique terroir, from its north to Copiapo Valley and Huasco Valley of Atacama Region, from it south to the Cautin Valley and Osorno Valley, but Chile still has great potential to be tapped. There are certainly a huge development space of the Chilean wine industry.

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wine map of chile