Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte: The legend by the Cathiards 40 年的相守,30年的传奇。

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte: The legend by the Cathiards

诗密特拉菲城堡: 40 年的相守,30年的传奇

Sylvia CHEN 陈微然

因为实在喜欢诗密特拉菲城堡Smith Haut Laffite的白葡萄酒,所以波尔多期酒周期间,毫不犹豫的和酒庄定了约会,借这个机会来酒庄走访。

期酒品鉴的过程中,丹尼尔先生竟是遵从了勃艮第的传统方式,先品红,再品白。波尔多跟勃艮第之间总是有一种微妙的关系,算不上是竞争,因为谁也没觉得对方的酒比自己好。不过,波尔多期酒周当中,偶尔提起我的勃艮第出身,当地人或挑挑眉毛,或狡黠的笑笑,神情之中细微的变化让人觉得很是有趣。

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge , Le Petite Haut Lafitte 2011  55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot

诗密特拉菲城堡三军酒,55%赤霞珠, 45%梅洛

整体清新,饱满的酒体,酸度很高,单宁后段紧实。

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge , 2011 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot

诗密特拉菲城堡正牌, 64%赤霞珠,30%梅洛,5% 品丽珠 1%小味儿多

香气更加出色,桑葚,烟熏的味道,更加浓缩,酒体也更加饱满,酸度相比之下更加平衡。

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Les Haut de Smith 100% 长相思(Sauvignon Blanc) 

入口出奇的柔和,像棉花糖,含在口中软软糯糯,却也藏着不错的酸度,很棒的酸甜平衡,余韵很长。

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 5% Semillon

像是走进了新鲜的水果市场,醋栗,杨桃,梨子,酸度清新而坚挺,余韵中充满了以白桃为主的淡雅回味。当之无愧的“Vin de Caudelie”(回味无穷的葡萄酒)

午餐的过程中,丹尼尔夫妇选用2009年正副牌白葡萄酒和2006年的正牌红葡萄酒佐餐。2009年的满分白葡萄酒却是实力不弱,果香加之矿物的味道充满口腔,姣好的平衡感让尤其喜欢白葡萄酒的我忍不住多喝了几口。2006年的正牌红葡萄酒全然褪去了年轻葡萄酒的果香澎湃,扑鼻的动物皮毛和肉条的味道。酒量实在不好,午餐时脑子里不断闪过新的问题。怕一时贪杯没办法好好记录,所以午餐中品饮的葡萄酒无法细细品饮,如今只能把印象最深的部分回忆起来。

午饭当中,丹尼尔夫人拿出一张详尽的日程表,耐心的和丈夫说着期酒周当中的安排。丹尼尔耐心听着,说到熟悉的老友偶尔与夫人相视一笑。如此和谐的生活伴侣,事业拍档,很难想象在他们的婚姻中,也曾经因为双方的聚少离多屡屡遇挫。正因如此,他们决定投身于两人都中意的事业——葡萄酒。

丹尼尔先生人很和蔼,只是照相的时候永远很严肃,不如夫人笑得那么开心。我问丹尼尔当年刚买下酒庄就遇到霜冻,第二年寒冷多雨,是否让他有过放弃的念头,他顿了顿然后一脸不可置信的表情对我说,没有,从来没有,一丝念头都没有。他说刚刚接手一个新的事业总会有各种的不如意,坚持着慢慢总会好。不过,几年的坏天气倒是成就了如今的蔻黛莉Spa和宾馆,丹尼尔说:“就算是春天葡萄园里有霜冻,游客们还是不会因此而止步的”

我想象着夫妻二人意气风发的买下酒庄,盼着来年有个好收成,却遇上灾害,对两人的打击可想而知。两个人自买下酒庄,一起下田,一起工作,一起摘葡萄,一起接待四方的宾客。也许是两个人的力量加在一起成就了这份前所未有的坚定吧!

丹尼尔夫人虽然已是两个女孩儿的母亲,两个女儿也都分别嫁人,她自己的身材却保持的尤其好,初见她的时候,她在葡萄园里骑着自行车,穿着一身米色的职业装,戴着法国贵妇人的圆顶礼帽,戴着迷人的笑容跟我打招呼。举手投足间的优雅,加上酒庄古老建筑似乎把我带到了法国那个充斥着沙龙文化的年代。

两人爱葡萄酒,也爱艺术,院子里几个大型的雕塑都很有故事和来头。最有趣的一个雕塑是一张被捏皱的2005年版《葡萄酒代言人》,恰好那一年诗密拉菲城堡的葡萄酒拿了帕克高分丹尼尔先生把这雕塑放在酒庄里,带着点戏谑。似乎是在说像这种评分,大家看看随手把它扔到一旁也就过去了。

葡萄酒的高水准品质跟酒庄的酿造技术密不可分,酒庄租用卫星来检测葡萄的成熟度,同时他们也是波尔多仅有的三家拥有自己制桶工厂的酒庄。跟注重小农手工(Artisan)的勃艮第相比,波尔多更注重科学化的管理,许多人觉得这有点小题大做,不过对于波尔多的酿酒师来说,有效精确地管理几十上百公顷的葡萄园有时不免也还是需要借助高科技的协助的。我问丹尼尔夫妇,同样也拥有一个“拉菲laffite”在酒庄的名字当中会不会总被比较或者误认,丹尼尔夫人大方的说:“诗密拉菲堡比另外一个拉菲历史更悠久,我们不怕比较”

看酒庄的详细数据,红白葡萄酒自2000年以来均在帕克90分以上,每公顷的产量也在十几年间小幅度慢慢下降。我想,能够享受恩爱四十余载的夫妻,定是能够有足够的耐心抚育如同他们孩子般的酒庄,造就一段百年的传奇。

2009年份波尔多期酒消极因素-Bordeaux Prices to Drop Big in U.S.

前面刚说完2009年份波尔多期酒的可能疯狂, 不过<商业周刊>(BusinessWeek)这则前几周的消息也许对波尔多贪婪的庄主们来说是个要考虑的消极因素因素. 希望能对他们定价有影响!

作为在美最大的波尔多顶级酒进口商,帝亚吉奥Diageo美国分支Chateau & Estate Wines将要退出美国的波尔多酒市场,为此抛售巨量波尔多列级酒, 带动整个美国市场的波尔多列级酒价格急挫,一些品种甚至下跌达到50%.  阴霾笼罩整个美国市场以及影响到法国波尔多. 葡萄酒爱好者将会受益.

不过最后的那句:”Several chateaux told me they expect the Chinese will buy big during the futures campaign this year.”(一些酒庄告诉我,他们认为今年中国人将会在这场期酒活动中大量采购),无语中…….

http://www.businessweek.com/lifestyle/content/mar2010/bw20100316_823658.htm

Bordeaux Prices to Drop Big in U.S.
波尔多价格在美国暴挫.

As importing giant Diageo pulls out of the U.S. Bordeaux market, wine lovers will benefit as prices are expected to fall dramatically

Review by Elin McCoy
(Bloomberg) — “What’s terrifying,” said John Kolasa, managing director of Bordeaux chateau Rauzan-Segla, “is what will happen to Bordeaux wines in America now that Diageo has bowed out.”
I was sipping his silky, charming 2007, one of the best wines from this lackluster vintage poured at the annual Union des Grands Crus tasting in New York, which never includes the first growths.
So far 2010 is awash in discounted Bordeaux and the mostly middle-rung ’07s promise more. That’s because the biggest U.S. importer of Bordeaux wines, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, a unit of British drinks giant Diageo Plc, announced last year that it was getting out of the Bordeaux business in the U.S.—and then started selling off its vast inventory in October.
Clyde Beffa Jr., owner of Bay Area K & L Wines and one of several retailers offered stock, said Chateau & Estate’s list included approximately $125 million of top Bordeaux. Diageo Director of Communications Maire Griffin declined to provide numbers.
For the past four decades, Chateau & Estate dominated the U.S. Bordeaux business, purchasing thousands of cases of the region’s top names as futures every year. Its large inventory of past vintages made it a one-stop shop for retailers and restaurateurs looking for Bordeaux. Diageo will continue to sell Bordeaux outside the U.S. through its London-based unit Justerini & Brooks.
“This is the end of a very nice story for Bordeaux,” Emmanuel Cruse, whose family owns Chateau d’Issan, said in a phone interview. “The national system is dead.”
Buyers’ Bonanza
For wine lovers, it’s good news.
“Bordeaux will get cheaper,” said negociant Ivanhoe Johnston, with whom I chatted over a spit bucket at the tasting.
Last fall Chateau & Estate and its distributors sent spreadsheets listing recent and older Bordeaux vintages to key U.S. players, such as Beffa and Chris Adams, president of New York’s Sherry-Lehmann. Beffa said he scooped up wines at 40 percent to 60 percent off wholesale. He’s already out of 2006 Chateau Trotanoy, which he sold at half off.
Sherry-Lehmann is selling bottles of some 2006s for 10 percent to 15 percent less than they cost as futures 2 1/2 years ago, Adams said. The 2005 Chateau Greysac, which was an exclusive with Chateau & Estate, can now be had in some shops for as little as $12.
‘Sliced and Diced’
“No one had the means to take on all the inventory,” Robert Wilmers, owner of Chateau Haut-Bailly and chief executive officer of M & T Bank Corp., told me at a Wine Media Guild lunch before the tasting. “It was sliced and diced.”
In the past few months two Bordeaux negociant firms have stepped in to fill the void, snapping up the best Chateau and Estates stocks at very attractive prices.
“We bought mainly 2005 and older vintages,” said David Milligan, president of Joanne USA, the New York office of the Bordeaux negociant, by phone.
Compagnie Medocaine, a unit of AXA Millesimes, which also owns several top chateaux, has teamed up with New York fine-wine importer Frederick Wildman, and started selling on March 1. Negociant Diva Bordeaux will open a New York office in May, Chief Executive Officer Jean-Pierre Rousseau said in a phone call.
“Nature hates a vacuum,” said Laurent Ehrmann, general manager of negociant Barriere Freres. “It will be filled by different means.”
Unloading 2007s
Which brings me back to the unloved 2007s. According to Diageo’s Griffin, the company begins unloading the rest of their 2007s this month.
That may be tough. Sales of high-end wines in restaurants are flat and everyone agreed the 2007 futures were overpriced for the quality back in spring 2008.
At their best the reds are fruity, early-drinking charmers that have lift and freshness but lack concentration. For under $30, look for firm, rich classics like Cantemerle and Poujeaux. I also liked pricier Beychevelle, Giscours, Haut-Bailly and especially Rauzan-Segla. Dry whites like Domaine de Chevalier and sweet Sauternes, like good value Doisy-Daene, are the stars. Watch for deeper discounts: K & L Bordeaux specialist Ralph Sands predicts “a bloodbath,” with prices up to 50 percent off.
The buyer-friendly market won’t last forever. The consensus among retailers is that bargains will be gone in six to eight months. Of course, if the financial markets crash again, all bets are off.
Chateau owners at the UGC tasting were hyping the reportedly spectacular 2009s (I’ll report on those in detail next month after attending the annual en primeur tastings). In the minds of the Bordelaise, this kind of “vintage of the century” is supposed to translate into very high prices, as it did for the 2005s. But the global financial climate has changed.
Several chateaux told me they expect the Chinese will buy big during the futures campaign this year.
I’ve heard that one before.
(Elin McCoy writes on wine and spirits for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are her own.)
To contact the writer of the story: Elin McCoy at elinmccoy@gmail.com.