DRC假酒门后续报道,始作俑者被FBI在美国逮捕

Sylvia CHEN 陈微然

Rudy Kurniawan于3月8日在洛杉矶被美国FBI以多项造假指控逮捕。Rudy Kurniawan一直活跃于商贾巨富和葡萄酒收藏家的社交圈中。这位30出头的新富在2000年中在葡萄酒圈中横空出世,不断在各大拍卖上频频有大手笔行动,每月有近1百万美元的花销。作为葡萄酒收藏家,他对他的客户提供无条件退货的承诺,以此建立良好的声誉并吸引了很多重要的客户。在晚宴上,他也经常豪爽的为同桌的参与者买单。

他的藏品第一次出事是在2007年的旧金山佳士得拍卖,他准备拍卖的6瓶1982年Magnum Chateau Le Pin被印在拍卖目录的封面。不幸的是,酒庄的负责人一眼就认出是假货,经过佳士得重新查看之后确定是假酒,撤拍。最著名事件的应属2008年,他准备通过Acker Merrall拍卖行卖出一系列极其珍贵的,前所未见的Ponsot’s Clos St-Denis 1945, 1949, 1959, 1962, 1966, 1971以及产自酒庄的1929年份的葡萄酒。但问题是酒庄1934年才建立,1982年以后Ponsot才开始出产Clos St-Denis。这种低级的造假很快被识破,酒庄立即叫停了拍卖。今年2月,由于酒标明显与原品不符,DRC英国代理商向Spectrum&Vanquish提出撤销此次对DRC几个稀少年份的拍卖。加州律师和葡萄酒收藏家Don Cornwell在网站上也提出15项差异表示对这批拍品的质疑。这批酒也是源自这位Rudy Kurniawan。

层出不穷的假酒事件让人们对他的背景充满了好奇,很多客户也在质疑者巨额的财富和令人生畏的藏酒是如何同时被一位30出头的小伙子同时纳入囊中的。当被问及葡萄酒的来源时,他坚持说藏品均来自亚洲的联系人,还给了调查员两个电话号码。只不过一个是印度尼西亚航空的电话,一个是某超市的电话。不少报道中说他是长居美国的印度尼西亚人,不过因为假酒事件他惹火了著名收藏家William Koch, 2009年William Koch对他提起诉讼并且进行深入调查。无论怎样,这位 Rudy Kurniawan纸醉金迷的奢华生活怕是要告以段落了。

 

 NYtimes纽约时报原文:  http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/09/nyregion/wine-dealer-accused-of-trying-to-sell-counterfeits.html

Renowned Wine Dealer Accused of Trying to Sell Counterfeits

By  and MATT FLEGENHEIMER
Rudy Kurniawan had ascended to the upper reaches of the wine world on both coasts, renowned as much for his palate as for his eye, fixed often on the highest of high-end bottles.

His presence at auctions was constant, at events in Beverly Hills, and offerings at Sotheby’s in New York. His interest by itself was enough to drive prices at the top of the market.

And as his collection brought in millions, Mr. Kurniawan made a show of his own authenticity, offering major buyers an unconditional return policy — exceedingly rare in the industry — while attracting a clientele that included the billionaire William I. Koch.

But on Thursday, in the culmination of persistent rumblings about the veracity of his products, Mr. Kurniawan was arrested in Los Angeles by the Federal Bureau of Investigation on charges that he had tried to sell counterfeit wine that, if genuine, would have been worth $1.3 million.

Mr. Kurniawan, who sold $35 million worth of wine in 2006 alone, was taken into custody in Los Angeles on mail and wire fraud charges filed in federal court in New York, according to court papers. Prosecutors from the office of the United States attorney in Manhattan said they expected him to be transferred to New York in the coming days.

The criminal complaint in the case said that in 2008, Mr. Kurniawan consigned for auction at least 84 bottles of counterfeit wine purporting to be from Domaine Ponsot in Burgundy, France, which were expected to sell for approximately $600,000. Although he represented the wine as authentic, it was not, prosecutors said.

He was also charged with trying to sell a single bottle that he claimed was a 1929 Domaine Ponsot. That was not possible, according to the complaint, because Domaine Ponsot did not begin estate bottling until 1934.

Mr. Kurniawan, 35, of Arcadia, Calif., was also charged with fraudulently obtaining millions of dollars in loans to finance what prosecutors called his “high-end lifestyle.”

Mr. Kurniawan was arrested by agents from an elite squad based in New York that focuses on crimes involving art, antiques and other collectibles. At a hearing in United States District Court in Los Angeles on Thursday, prosecutors said a search of Mr. Kurniawan’s home had turned up materials used in the counterfeiting of wine bottles, according to a person briefed on the proceeding.

Mr. Kurniawan, according to the complaint, also consigned wine that had purportedly been bottled between 1945 and 1971 from the Clos St.-Denis vineyard by Domaine Ponsot, even though the domaine did not make wine from that vineyard until 1982. The wines were later withdrawn from the auction at the request of Domaine Ponsot’s administrator.

When the administrator questioned Mr. Kurniawan about the source of the counterfeit wines, he maintained that he had obtained the bottles from a person in Asia and had given the administrator two telephone numbers for that person, according to the complaint.

But neither number led to that person or anyone else who sold wine, the complaint said; one number was for a regional Indonesian airline and the other was for a shopping mall in Jakarta.

Mr. Kurniawan’s lawyer, Luis Li of Munger, Tolles & Olson LLP in Los Angeles, said he was evaluating the charges but declined to comment further. The arrest of Mr. Kurniawan, who is charged with three counts of wire fraud and three counts of mail fraud, was announced in a news release issued by the office of the United States attorney in Manhattan. “The bad-faith sale of any commodity you know to be a counterfeit, fake or forgery is a felony,” Janice K. Fedarcyk, the F.B.I.’s assistant director in charge of the New York office, said in the news release. “Whether you are peddling a Picasso or a Petrus, a Botticelli or a Burgundy, unless it is what you say it is, the sale is a fraud.”

Indeed, for years, restaurants and top cellars in New York and Los Angeles awaited the inevitable windfall that accompanied Mr. Kurniawan’s arrival, as he and guests laid waste to the most expensive bottles on the wine list.

“We knew of him,” said Tim Kopec, the former wine director at Veritas, “prior to him walking through the doors.”

In 2006, Mr. Kurniawan jarred industry observers by offering buyers a guarantee intended to protect against fraud. One former sommelier in Manhattan, who requested anonymity because he is named in the complaint, recalled the ploy as “a real move of bravado.”

“It was very unusual, the first time I’d ever seen it,” he said. But as Mr. Kurniawan’s profile grew, the sommelier added, questions were raised about his collection’s contents. How did a man so young, some fellow collectors began to wonder, amass bottles so rare?

The grumblings crested in 2009, when Mr. Koch filed suit against Mr. Kurniawan, claiming he had been sold five counterfeit bottles at the New York auction house Acker, Merrall, & Condit, according to news reports. Because of this recent history, arriving amid a spate of other industry allegations concerning counterfeit sales, Mr. Kopec said the arrest was unlikely to ruffle the wine world significantly. “The industry is rife with bogus wine, usually at the very, very highest level,” he said. “That would be the most attractive segment if you were going to be unscrupulous.”

Mr. Kurniawan is an Indonesian citizen whose asylum application was denied in 2001, when he was ordered to leave the United States, according to the criminal complaint, which was sworn out by F.B.I. Special Agent James P. Wynne, head of the Major Theft Squad.

Mr. Kurniawan, whom the complaint says is also known as Dr. Conti, appealed, but his appeal was denied and he was again ordered to leave the country. He did not comply, and since April 2003 has been living in California, the complaint said.

United States Magistrate Judge Stephen J. Hillman initially ordered Mr. Kurniawan released on a $175,000 bond, secured by property. But after prosecutors expressed their concern that he would flee, the judge stayed his decision, and prosecutors have said they will appeal.

“Mr. Kurniawan’s days of wine and wealth are over, if the allegations in this case are proven,” the United States attorney, Preet Bharara said in the news release. “As alleged, Rudy Kurniawan held himself out to be a wine aficionado with a nose for a counterfeit bottle, but he was the counterfeit, pawning off prodigious quantities of fraudulent wine himself to unsuspecting auction houses and collectors.”

 

Call me Weibo, Loud and Proud

Call me Weibo, Loud and Proud.

— The importance of Weibo in the Chinese wine industry

Sylvia CHEN

Attention please, for those who wanted to go into the chinese market, an important chinese word you need to learn today is “微博” (Weibo).

Weibo is the microblog which had been well spread all over China. China Daily reported that Sina Weibo boost of 140 million users and 50 million active monthly users. Sina claims 10 million new accounts signed up each month. Compare to 56 million users and 21 million active monthly users of Twitter (Cited in The Guardian UK)Weibo’s influence could be enormous in China. Not to mention we don’t even have the access to Twitter. No more twitter or chinese twitter, say “Weibo” now.

 

 

With the rapid life path, people could no longer digest lengthy articles which need you “Page Down” more than three times. We need the information which is quick, short and essential. That is exactly why people goes for Weibo first and then search for more information on website, newspaper or magzine if interested. Nowadays, when people met each other, after exchange for the telephone number, they will ask for the Weibo account to closely keep in touch.

According to the research by Wine Intellegence, 74% of people often use Internet as the sources of wine information in China. In the mean time, Sine Weibo ranks the third in Top 5 websites use to source wine information in China. It is only 5% percent short of Baidu (Chinese version of Google if you would like to say). Most wine experts, wine bloggers and wine lovers had their Weibo account. They share their passion, exchange their information, discuss about the industry and recommend wines to each other. 62% of people would use social network as their major source for wine information. That is very special in the consumer goods market. People will not get on line to find information of other beverage before they buy it.

Personally, I think the best example for personal Weibo marketing in wine sector is the famous French wine critic “Michel Bettane”. Although Michel Battane is fairly important and prestige in France, his name is barely known to the Chinese wine lover until he got a Weibo account. The women behind is a intelligent chinese women who now live in Paris. She posted interesting and valuable miniblog everyday which made Michel Battane over 70,000 followers in China. His account is among the the most famous and successful one in wine sector.

It is not easy to use Weibo as part of your marketing strategy. Most foreigners had neither patience nor interest to know it inside out. The content, the interval, the timing and the interactions with their audience. All of these made the foreigners had no where to start.

Whether there will be a need for Chinese social network specialist. We’ll wait and see.

Domaine Lamarche and the Women Behind 拉玛舒酒庄和它背后的女人(上)

拉玛舒酒庄和它背后的女人

Domaine Lamarche and the Women Behind

陈微然 Sylvia CHEN 

鸡冠头,强力发胶,唇边闪闪发亮的钉珠,耳畔暗暗透光的锥形吊坠。这如此霸气外漏的哥特风,让我在和Domaine Lamarche(拉玛舒酒庄)女酿酒师Nicole会面时着实大吃一惊。总以为勃艮第的酿酒师都是些衣着简朴,乡村风味十足老伯或者中年人,这样年轻又个性十足的女酿酒师倒是第一次见到。不等我多想,Nicole 风风火火的把我带进酿酒车间,领着我走进了她那同样个性鲜明的葡萄酒世界。

这次尝到的葡萄酒全部是2010年份,在三月中旬会装瓶。所有葡萄酒都经过10个月的橡木桶陈年,60%-100%新桶。她的Passtoutgrains以黑皮诺为主,仅有不到20%的佳美葡萄,品尝的时候因为温度太低,香气并没有太打开,倒是在口中,酸度活跃,果味充沛,不失为一款质量尚可的配餐酒。不仅配餐,小酌也怡情。Bourgogne的葡萄园离Vosne Romanee很近,清新甜美的李子味,很是讨喜,在口中单宁比Passtoutgrains略重,整个酒的结构和骨架也十分明朗。Haute Cote de Nuit更加直接,强壮,凝缩度更好,酸度坚挺,果香的支撑也不差。Vosne Romanee 柔和,优雅,非常明显的残糖量略高,酸度也全无之前的凛厉。在四款村庄级酒中,这款的余韵最长,余韵中的果香和略多的残糖交相辉映,倒也甜美可人。这风格的大转变,让人觉着十分惊喜。

几款酒尝下来,十分惊异于他们之间的差别。对风土的敬重早已是老生常谈,但真正能做到把不同地块的葡萄酿制成风格不同的酒倒也真不是易事。曾经的采访中遇到过有些酒庄极力宣传他们对风土的表现。他们采用用相同的酿造方法,以此展示风土的不同,但结果却差强人意。我问Nicole是否对每块地出产的葡萄采用不同的酿造手法,她坦言她只是大自然的辅佐者,通过对每个地块葡萄的品尝,选定酿造的方式,最大程度上展示自然的风土。说起来容易,这一个酒庄十几个法定产区,若是这一个个尝下来,自然也是费时费心。酿酒的季节,Nicole连续五周守候在酒庄里,监督并且不断的品尝。每一次压榨,踩皮(Pigeage)每一天的浸皮之后,她都会亲自品尝,如果之前的决定有所偏差,便即刻更改。同样,在特级园和一级园中,她能做出如此细致有力的单宁,也是得益于她每日每日对葡萄酒的关注。她的理念是酿造出同样严肃认真的村庄级葡萄酒,所以所用的葡萄都是和那些特级园一样采用有机种植,手工采摘,酿造时也是采用同样的酿造方式,同样百分比的新桶。对她来说,一款passtoutgrains的重要性却并不比特级园要差。她希望各个阶层的消费者在他家都能找到心头之好。

Vosne Romanee 1er cru les chaumes

仍然是优雅柔和的气质,新鲜充沛的李子香,单宁有力却细致,酸度略高,还需要时间使她更加平衡,不知怎的,口中的风味却是人垂涎欲滴,想要配上些小菜,好好享受一番。

Vosne Romanee 1er cru, Les suchots

这便是夹在两大片特级园当中的一级园了,虽说很多人因此对它给予厚望,不过后实地去看的时候,土壤和地势走向却是不能与特级园相比。许多葡萄藤位谷底,阳光不容易找到,怕是早春的时候,寒气也不容易散去。这款酒香料的味道倒是很明显,有些茴香的味道,当然不能忽视的是那一如既往的李子味,这次是成熟到黑紫的大李子。口中风味十足,虽说不太凝缩,不过平衡感很好,喝着感觉很舒服,不恼人。

Vosne Romanee 1er cru Malconsorts

第一次喝到的一级园,非常有男子气概的一款,酸度和单宁都比之前要强许多,单宁的结构非常棒,配合却很好。她直言与其他家的Malconsorts相比,她更喜欢增添不少果香,香气和La tache比较接近,我倒是没喝过La tache也没办法描述,有心人倒是可以买来,就当做是管中窥豹了。

Nuit St George 1er les Crâs

一款风味十足的葡萄酒,从香气上感觉是款非常可人的小姑娘,有很多水果糖的味道,在口中却完全转变,酸度活跃,细致的单宁暗暗发力,这个在Vosne Romanee和Nuit st George之间的葡萄园,着实整合了前者的甜美和后者的力度。

Vosne Romanee grand cru Echezeaux

相当浓郁的黑李子味,不过当日状态不好,没有太发挥出Echezeaux的实力,复杂度和凝缩都没太表现出来,单宁还是一如既往的柔和细致。

Vosne Romanee grand cru clos de vougeot

酸度非常好,并且有很好的果香作为支撑,单宁在后端突显,强力,整体平衡做的不错,在Clos de vougeot里面也算实力卓越的了。像Malconsorts一样,都是相对来说男性化的酒。

Vosne Romanee grand cru Grand Echezeaux

还是当天太冷的缘故,香气的展现略有欠缺,我也没多加描述。在口中却感觉这是款相当娇艳的一款酒,但一颦一笑却都恰到好处,黑暗之中缓缓走来,不至急于表现,失了风韵转向艳俗。

Vosne Romanee grand cru La Grand Rue

完美的平衡,你能在酒找到所有你希望的元素,不多不少,不偏不倚。

La Grand Rue 酒园在整个酒庄多年的努力之下,在1992年正式由一级园晋升为特级园,这似乎是这么多年来唯一一个晋升为特级园的葡萄田,整个家族为之做出的努力可见一斑。

 

Jane Eyre’s Story of Wine 简爱的葡萄酒故事

Jane Eyre’s Story of Wine

简爱的葡萄酒故事

Sylvia CHEN 陈微然

她不是小说的女主人公,她的生活中也没有藏着黑暗秘密的罗切斯特先生。Jane Eyre-Renard她是一位来自澳大利亚酿酒师,却扎根于勃艮第酿造她最爱的黑皮诺,她也叫Jane Eyre, 她是这神奇葡萄酒旅程中的女主角。

故事开始于墨尔本的一家理发店,当Jane听着Jeremy Oliver的太太对那餐桌上美酒的描绘,她竟一下子入了迷。厌倦了理发店千篇一律的工作,由着Jeremy的介绍,不通法语的她却径直飞往勃艮第。自1998年她来到勃艮第帮忙酿酒之后,如所有的故事中讲的一样,她爱上了片土地,这里的人和那醉人的美酒。一切是那样的顺利成章,回到澳大利亚之后,她开始了在葡萄酒世界的旅程。通过函授拿到了酿酒师的学位,并且在墨尔本一家很大的葡萄酒商店开始工作。她总是跟我说自己很幸运,连续三年和澳大利亚传奇酿酒师Stuart Andersson共同工作,而后在MeursaultThierry Matrot, Domaines des Comtes Lafon每年帮忙酿酒,最终留在美国人的勃艮第酒庄Domaine Newman做助理酿酒师。

Jane的谈话平凡而真实,她让酿酒师离人们不再那么遥远,让酿酒这件事情褪去了那层神秘的外衣。我跟她聊到很多人都认为酿酒是一件特别浪漫的事情的时候,她坦言酿酒师有80%的时间都是在各种清洗当中度过,发酵罐,橡木桶,压榨机……她说“这时候你只想好好睡一觉,什么浪漫不浪漫的全都放在一边了。”我问她说做了酿酒师以后,品酒的时候角度会不会有所不同。她的回答让我肃然起敬。她说从前在葡萄酒商店做买手,总是对各种送来的酒样评头论足,指手画脚,做酿酒师以后却更加谦逊了,因为她明白一瓶葡萄酒这背后的一切是有多么的不容易。

很难想象一个新世界背景的酿酒师能够从容的在勃艮第留住,从开始自澳大利亚每年飞来帮忙酿酒,到如今留住勃艮第独立酿制自己风格的葡萄酒,再到未来她即将要开展自己的Negociant 酒商业务。作为一个在男性主导的职业当中的女人,她曾语言不通,也没有专业背景,只因着心底那一份向往和期盼,却也有了今天的成绩。

我跟她说了我如今在法国的抉择和踯躅和面前的种种障碍,她说It’s all depends on how badly you want it, if you want it badly, you will find a way to do it. (那要看你有多想做成这件事,如果是非常想,你总会让自己找到得到方法的)