澳洲之旅的相关报道-Joint initiative bears fruit

上月下旬,包括我在内的6家媒体(博客)走访了南澳、西澳,历时10天,因为正在为几本杂志写澳洲葡萄酒之旅的稿件,所以还未发博客。

不过澳洲葡萄酒管理局(Wine Australia)和澳洲旅游局已经有新闻发出。附一下,做个记录。

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Joint initiative bears fruit

Chinese Opinion Leaders Experience Some of Australia’s Best Drops .

http://www.wineaustralia.com/en/News%20and%20Events/News/Joint%20initiative%20bears%20fruit.aspx

kangaroo vine

Six of China’s leading wine and lifestyle opinion leaders have been visiting Australia this month as part of a joint Tourism Australia and Wine Australia initiative to promote Australia’s world class tourism and wine experiences to potential Chinese visitors.

The visiting opinion leaders represent major media titles and wine blog sites in China such as WineOnline, WineBlogChina.com, Vinehoo.com, Wines Info, U Life Magazine, Men’s Uno and the Robb Report, which have a combined following of more than one million Chinese.

Their Australian itinerary has included visits to more than 10 wineries and talks with leading winemakers in the McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills, Barossa and Margaret River.

Tourism Australia Managing Director Andrew McEvoy said the visiting opinion leaders would help to extend the global message of why There’s nothing like Australia in one of Australia’s most important tourism markets.

“China continues to be a market of increasing significance for Australian tourism and is now our single most important market in terms of value – worth $3.8 billion annually – and key to our long term plans for growth,” Mr McEvoy said.

“Whilst we know that Australia’s nature is incredibly appealing to Chinese travellers, and has helped to drive the demand for our tourism experiences, we want to extend their knowledge that our landscape has also created some of the world’s finest wines. “Hosting these influential opinion leaders will help to spread word-of-mouth advocacy in China about the many and compelling reasons why Australia is a world class tourism destination, especially those experiences that are built around our wine and food offering,” Mr McEvoy said.

Mr McEvoy added the visit followed recent research commissioned by Tourism Australia that shows while Australia’s world class beauty and natural environment are the primary reason why Chinese travellers choose to visit, the country’s wine and food offerings enhance their reasons to visit and the experience when they are here. Wine Australia Chief Executive Andrew Cheesman said the visit would help showcase the quality and diversity of Australian wines and wine regions. “China is Australia’s fastest growing export market for Australian wine, with bottled wine exports to China delivering double digit growth in both value and volume this year,” Mr Cheesman said.

“Australian wines are fast gaining a reputation in China for their high quality, and the diversity of styles means they are very well matched with Chinese cuisines. “Education and engagement of consumers, sommeliers, wine educators, importers, media and other key influencers is central to Wine Australia’s strategy in China and this visit by some of China’s media opinion leaders is a major part of that.”

South Australian wineries involved in the visit have included: Hardy’s Tintara, Angove McLaren Vale, d’Arenberg Vineyard &Winery, Chapel Hill Winery, Petaluma’s Piccadilly Vineyard, Shaw & Smith, The Lane Vineyard, Grant Burge Wines, Jacob’s Creek, and Peter Lehmann Wines.

In Western Australia wineries visited included Fraser Gallop Estate, Stella Bella, Brookland Valley Winery, and Cullen Wines.

Tourism experiences featured on the program in South Australia have included: Cheese and Olive Oil tasting with the producers of McLaren Vale , Cleland Wildlife Park, Star of Greece Café’, Hilton Adelaide and Hilton Brasserie, The Victory Hotel, Barossa Trike Tours, Novotel Barossa Resort and Harry’s Restaurant in South Australia.

Western Australian tourism experiences have included: Pullman Resort Bunker Bay, Margaret River Gourmet Escape, Naturaliste Charters Whale and Dolphin Eco-Tours, Swan Jet Adventures, The Bell Towers, The Trustee Bar & Bistro, Busselton Jetty & Underwater Observatory, Esplanade Hotel Fremantle, Little Creatures Brewery, The Round House, Didgeridoo Breath, Cottesloe Beach, Crown Perth, Kings Park, Wandering West Tours, Perth Mint, and Must Wine Bar.

In the past year Australia welcomed 606,400 visitors from China (September 2012 year end), making it the second largest source market for visitors after New Zealand. As part of Australia’s Tourism 2020 strategy, China is expected to grow to as much as $9 billion and 860,000 visitors annually by the end of the decade.

China is Australia’s third largest market for Australian bottled wine exports and the biggest for bottled wine exports above A$7.50 per litre, ahead of the US and Canada. China’s demand for premium wine continues to drive strong growth in the higher priced Australian wine segments, with the above A$10.00 per litre segment a stand‐out, up 37 per cent. The average value per litre of Australian bottled imports to China is now for the first time higher than the average for French wines.

法国卢瓦尔河谷(Loire Valley)葡萄酒圣诞午宴-陈年酒专场2012

法国卢瓦尔河谷葡萄酒圣诞午宴-陈年酒专场2012
Loire Valley Wines Old Vintage Christmas Banquet 2012

陆江(Maxime LU)/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部

2012年12月12日,正好北京下雪,有幸被法国卢瓦河谷葡萄酒协会中国大陆区公关总代理于吉香港有限公司邀请,参加由法国卢瓦河谷葡萄酒协会在北京前门23号布鲁宫,举办的法国卢瓦尔河谷葡萄酒圣诞午宴-陈年酒专场。

活动现场看到还有北京的多家葡萄酒媒体和一些业内人士参加。这次活动旨在让北京的葡萄酒专业人士了解到卢瓦河葡萄酒的陈年实力,以及配菜的潜力。卢瓦河谷葡萄酒协会的推广大使在席间与大家讲解每款酒的特质和相关知识。

Loire Valley Wines  Old vintage

卢瓦河谷的老年份酒以往试的不多,尤其事先看到酒单,有一些不是以陈年见长的卢瓦河谷子产区的酒,吊足我的胃口。甚至为此我还推掉了另一场品酒午宴。当然最终觉得庆幸,这场品酒会里的一些酒甚至是从法国的酒窖里直接背过来的,本身存世就已不多。

闲话少说,直接上酒评:

Loire Valley Wines  Old vintage

Muscadet Sevre et Maine sue lie – Cuvee speciale 1995 – Domaine Alain Oivier

浅金黄色,白花,矿物,橘子酱,酵母,还有点青苹果和杏仁气息;饱满圆润,酸度强,活跃,平衡;回味中长,已到顶峰,开始要走下坡。 这应该是我第一次试那么老的Muscadet Sevre et Maine sue lie,有些惊叹于他的陈年实力。1995年在当地,看来也是个值得重视的年份,只是光芒被超级年份1996给遮住了。。

Sancerre- Jadis 2002 – Henri Bourgeois

深金黄色,熟苹果,矿物,蜂蜜,牛油果气息,后来转为香草,坚果主导,馥郁;重酒体,饱满,凝缩,充盈口中,圆润之极,酸度中强;回味长,还有很强陈年实力。 这款酒的表现,如果在盲品中,我断然不会将他与Sancerre挂上钩,尤其口感。

Saumur Champigny – Roches Neuves 1990 – Domaine Thierry Germain

青辣椒和干枯树叶为主,随后松露,黑巧克力,皮革,动物皮毛;中重酒体,单宁中弱,酸度中,细腻柔和,甘美;回味中长,有点酒芯巧克力味道。开始的辛辣气息极为霸道,有点讨嫌,不过后期演变柔化甘美。

Menetou Salon Rouge – 1996 – Domaine Pholippe Chavet

山楂,黑巧克力,果味充沛,少量湿羊毛,青春犹在;中重酒体,单宁中强,细腻精致,酸度中强,活跃,平滑,有结构;回味长,愉悦平静。惊叹于他的青春活力,1996是当地的超级年份,看来名不虚传。

Montlouis Moelleux 1997 – Domaine de Cray

杏干,热带水果,中重酒体,酸度中强,果味,平衡,愉悦,还有点小清新,回味中等。

Loire Valley Wines  Old vintage

Loire Valley Wines  Old vintage

Loire Valley Wines  Old vintage

澳洲St Hugo圣雨果葡萄酒上市晚宴小记

澳洲St Hugo圣雨果上市晚宴小记

陆江(Maxime LU)/文

2012年11月30日,我应邀参加了澳洲杰卡斯旗下圣雨果(ST Hugo)葡萄酒的上市晚宴,在中国广州丽思卡尔顿酒店(兴安路3号)意轩西餐厅举办。澳洲圣雨果葡萄酒首席酿酒师SAM KURTZ先生,也特意来到中国参加本次发布晚宴,并和美食美酒界的媒体和专家们交流了品酒心得和配菜理念,现场主要是广东本地的美食美酒专业人士和媒体居多。

 

同时为了这次发布会,澳洲圣雨果(ST Hugo)葡萄酒特意准备了3个年份的圣雨果St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon,分别是2009, 2001, 1994年份。 杰卡斯借此也希望我们通过品鉴和配菜,了解到澳洲圣雨果(ST Hugo)葡萄酒的陈年实力和不同阶段的表现。

 

我对圣雨果St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon的点评:

圣雨果St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
黑醋栗,桉树叶,咖啡豆,烟熏气息;高酒精,单宁成熟强劲,天鹅绒般质地,收敛,酸强劲,厚重酒体,口中咖啡豆,烟熏,和果味融合,回味长。有很强的陈年实力。

圣雨果St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
动物皮毛,丁香花蕾,甘草,咖啡豆,雪茄盒,黑莓,酒精感中强,重酒体,单宁中强细腻,平滑,细致,酸度中强,回味长,有活力,已渐入佳境,也有继续陈年实力。

圣雨果St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
动物皮毛,咖啡豆,烟熏和枯树叶味道;中重酒体,单宁中等力度,细腻,略瘦,酸度中强,活跃,回味中长。总体感觉已至顶峰期。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

陆江美国产区行之加州篇4-历史悠久的纳帕酒庄<贝灵哲酒园-Beringer Vineyards>

陆江美国产区行之加州篇4
历史悠久的纳帕酒庄<贝灵哲酒园-Beringer Vineyards>


撰稿人/陆江(Maxime LU) /2012-06 

作为纳帕谷最早的还在继续运营的酒庄之一,贝灵哲酒园(Beringer Vineyards)已有130多年的历史。在2001年,贝灵哲酒园入列受美国政府保护的《国家历史遗迹》(National Register of Historic Places)。

追溯历史,贝灵哲酒园的创始人之一Federick Beringer当年被美国的发展机会所吸引, 于是1863年第一次来到纽约。五年后,他的兄弟Jacob也来到纽约,但是很快发现自己,还是喜欢以前在德国的家族酒庄工作的生活。Jacob听到加州葡萄酒产业正在起步的消息,他毅然决定西行来到了加州纳帕谷。这次Federick也决定跟随Jacob,于是1876年,他们一起在纳帕建立了贝灵哲兄弟酒庄。此后酒庄的历史也伴随着纳帕谷葡萄酒行业的崛起、起伏和发展。

我们到达酒庄后,酒庄安排接待的是负责客服的Dean Busquaert。

虽然气温不高,可下午两点的直晒阳光,还是有些难挡。Dean带着我们在室外快速参观,路过一栋二层简约风格的老式建筑,介绍道:“这就是建于1848年的Jacob Beringer的故居Hudson House,现在是酒庄的美食烹饪艺术中心。”

看着Hudson House铁栅栏门前的路标提示,沿路向前就是我们要去的酒庄接待和品酒中心,也是酒庄的另一栋著名历史建筑Rhine House。 Rhine House始建于1883年,是Federick Beringer的故居,整个建筑是由著名的建筑师Albert Schroepfer仿照Beringer家族当年在德国莱茵河畔的房子设计的。直至今日,建筑中复杂的木雕制品,石制品和新艺术(Art Nouveau)风格的彩绘玻璃依旧保存完好。

 

 

本以为接下来仅是循例数款酒品鉴,可没想到,Dean除让我们品酒外,还为我们准备了一个有趣的酒食搭配的品鉴尝试。

首先摆好了5款Beringer酒园的酒,我逐一品鉴记录,Dean也时不时看我用不同语言记录的酒评词。

也许Dean看到我酒评词里的法语单词“Cassis”(黑醋栗),有感而发说到:“你会法语,所以写cassis,但美国人不知道cassis。有些人经常看杂志《Wine Spectator》,我看他们品鉴赤霞珠时常写有Cassis, 但我能感觉到这个人其实没有真正闻到这个香气,而是背出来的。因为在美国并没有Cassis这个词。”

听了这番话后,我笑了笑着说:“的确有背词的伪爱好者,不过我们也是尽量鼓励人们用自己感受到的真正气息来表达,尽量用本地常见的气息,除非是为了更广泛的国际交流。”

Dean他还分享说,“有一次,一位年轻女士品尝了这里的一款白葡萄酒后,说闻起来想芭比娃娃的头发。我不认为是种赞美,因为芭比娃娃的头发像是塑料味,但是我很感激她,因为她很坦诚。”

当聊到赤霞珠与食物搭配时,Dean他想用简化的方法搭配赤霞珠,并认为这与肉类等食材没关联,而更多取决于品尝食物和酒的时候,口中的五种味觉:酸、甜、苦、咸、鲜。他还特别提到这是从纳帕谷的一位葡萄酒大师(MW)那里学到的。纳帕谷一共有七位这样的葡萄酒大师。

根据Dean的观点,赤霞珠与三种味道的搭配:咸、甜、酸,其中有两种味道与赤霞珠搭配起来很好, 另外一种搭配起来效果很差。为此他特意准备了甜度较高的苹果,柠檬,盐,还有Brie奶酪和Aged Gouda奶酪,

我们用赤霞珠搭配的结果:

-苹果: 甜,效果最差,甜味与单宁搭配质地变粗糙;

-柠檬: 酸,效果不错,反而有圆润口感;

-盐:咸,搭配效果不错,平衡适中;

-Brie奶酪: 本身含糖量高,含酸和咸较少,口感圆润,与赤霞珠搭配,粗重失衡,失望。事实来看,反倒适合搭配低单宁酒。

-Aged Gouda奶酪: 陈年一年,含糖少,含酸偏咸,配高单宁赤霞珠,圆润平滑,很棒。

说实话,这个结果蛮意外,原本我不看好的柠檬,居然表现是最佳。根据这个结果,在酒食搭配上,有些固有的判断理论,甚至某些权威资料的观点,在实践中很有可能不完全准确。最好的办法就是多实践多比较。

Beringer St. Helena Home Vineyard 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
紫罗兰色,李子,樱桃,香草,甘草;重酒体,单宁中等力度,酸度中强,平衡,口中有黑李子味,余味中长,有烟熏气息。

Beringer Rancho Del Oso Vineyard 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
暗紫红,黑加仑,李子干,山楂,花瓣,重酒体,单宁细腻,中强力度,有结构感,细致,酸度强劲,平衡活跃,优雅;回味中长,有些红李子,咖啡豆味道。

Beringer Steinhauer Ranch Vineyard 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
暗紫红,湿羊毛,李子,甘草,黑樱桃,果味充沛,重酒体,单宁如天鹅绒般质地,有力,酸度中强,回味长,有咖啡豆,烟熏,李子的气息。

Beringer Vinyards Private Reserve 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
透亮紫红色,黑莓,黑加仑,雪茄盒,黑巧,湿灌木,烟熏,甘草,其中黑色水果味是主导;重酒体,饱满凝缩,单宁细腻,收敛极有力,酸度强劲活跃,有上佳平衡,庞大结构,果味与橡木味和谐搭配,回味长,庞大不失灵巧,颇具潜力。

Beringer Nightingale 2007,67% 赛美容Semillon 33% 长相思Sauvignon Blanc
贵腐甜白酒,金黄色,杏干,糖水菠萝;重酒体,饱满,一定集中度,口中有枣,无花果干,焦糖味道,酸度中强,平衡圆润,回味长。