A Brief Description of Development of Modern Chile Wine Regions

A Brief Description of  Development of Modern Chile Wine Regions

Text & Photo by Maxime LU

After diminishing for 10 years, China’s tariff on Chilean wines has finally been reduce to zero, Chilean wine thus once again become the focus of importers. It also has a special significance: in particular since CCP’s policy to clampdown in gifting to officials and ostentatious display of wealth in 2012; the global economic downturn; the repeatedly tightened country’s economic policy; transformation of the wine market and consumer consumption concept matures. All of these factors have shifted the market from its corporate and official consumption market, to a personal consumption-based market. With its high price-performance and diversity, Chilean wines naturally became more and more the choice of consumers.

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Apalta region/photo by Maxime LU

Chilean wine price-performance is usually the most mentioned advantages, which I will not repeat here, let’s focus on a keypoint of its diversity this time: the timeline of discovery of its wine regions, and its latest development in the “Wild Times” of last four decades. In the last century, due to political and other factors, the development of the Chilean wine industry was slow before 70s, the development of the modern wine industry was basically began in the late 70s, so the last four decades has been a period that represented the development and changes of modern Chilean appellations.

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Let’s briefly introduce Chile and its wine regions here. Chile is a Panhandle land, to the west is the Pacific Ocean, with more than 4000 kilometers of coastline, stretching to the east is the towering Andes, to the south is the Antarctica ice sheet, to the north is the Atacama Desert, Chile is just over 100 km in width averagely and an earthquake-prone zone, which further contributes to its extremely complex and diverse land features, topography, soil types and micro-climate.

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In 1979, the famous Spanish winemaker Miguel Torres (Miguel Torres) arrived Chile and started making wine in Curico valley. His arrival has since opened a new chapter in the Chilean wine industry, which is often considered to be the beginning of modern wine industry. He was the first who introduced the advanced temperature-control stainless steel fermentation tank, French oak barrels, and clones of few varietals, all of these have revolutionized development of both viticulture and wine-making technology of Chile.

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1980s – Started exploring the coastal area and began to develop vineyards at the Andes foothills areas. In 1982, Pablo Morandé opened vineyard in the cold and windy Casablanca Valley after visiting Los Carneros Region, California. (Los Carneros located at the junction of Napa and Sonoma ).

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Then in the 1990s, Chilean gradually developed a new batch of excellent wine regions throughout the country:
1993 – Limari Valley
1993 – Bio Bio Valley
1995 – Malleco Valley
1997 – Elqui Valley
1998 – San Antonio Valley

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In 2007 Fundo Lechagua Winery started up a vineyard at Chiloe Island, more than 1100km south of Santiago. Vina Momberg located near the Lake Districct town of Osorno, started producing Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.

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In 2012, to facilitate management, Chilean Agriculture and Livestock Service (SAG) has declared three official wine producing zone: the coastal area (Costa), the Andes area (Andes) and the between mountain ranges area (Entre Cordilleras), covering areas throughout Chile.

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In 2013, Marcelo Papa, winemaker of Chile’s largest wine group Concha y Toro, mentioned during his interview with Decanter that Chile is constantly in search of suitable terroir to develop vineyard in the new viticultural area, making it one of the world’s most active wine producing countries.

Throughout the last few decades, although Chile has opened up quite a lot wine-producing areas and developed a number of regions with unique terroir, from its north to Copiapo Valley and Huasco Valley of Atacama Region, from it south to the Cautin Valley and Osorno Valley, but Chile still has great potential to be tapped. There are certainly a huge development space of the Chilean wine industry.

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wine map of chile

不断拓展中的智利葡萄酒版图

不断拓展中的智利葡萄酒版图

-现代智利葡萄酒产区拓展简述

图文 / 陆江(Maxime LU)

(本文已刊登于 1756chile.com 的专栏)

  2015年,智利葡萄酒经过10年的递减,进入中国大陆的关税终于降到0,智利葡萄酒由此再度成为进口商关注的热点。尤其在2012年以来三公限制政策的推进,在全球经济不景气的大环境下,国家经济政策多番收紧,以及葡萄酒市场热点转换和消费者消费理念的日趋成熟,市场已彻底地从原有的集团消费和对公消费为主的市场,转换到了以个人消费为主的市场。这时兼备极高性价比和多样性的智利葡萄酒,成了越来越多消费者的选择。

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Apalta产区/陆江摄影

平时性价比是智利葡萄酒被提及最多的优势,我就不再赘述,这次来了解一下多样性中的一个重要点:在过去三四十年“拓荒时代”中,产区们的开拓发现“时间表”,以及最新的发展状况。上个世纪,由于政治等因素,在七十年代之前智利葡萄酒行业发展缓慢,而现代葡萄酒工业发展基本是从七十年代末才开始,所以过去三四十年是代表了现代智利葡萄酒产区的发展变迁的时期。

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首先还是介绍一下智利产区概况,由于智利是狭长地带的国土,西面是浩瀚的太平洋,有着4000多公里的海岸线,东部是绵延高耸的安第斯山脉,南部已到南极冰原,北部到了阿塔卡玛沙漠(Atacama),平均仅100多公里的宽度,又是地震多发带,造就了地物地貌、土壤类型和微气候极为复杂多样。

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红魔鬼酒窖/陆江摄影

  1979年西班牙著名酿酒师米盖尔?桃乐丝(Miguel Torres)抵达智利并开始在谷里高山谷酿造葡萄酒。随着他的到来,智利葡萄酒行业开启了新篇章,这经常被认为是现代葡萄酒工业的起始。他首次引进先进的不锈钢温控发酵罐,法国橡木桶,以及一些品种的克隆,推动了智利葡萄酒的种植酿造技术的革命性发展。

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20世纪80年代- 探索海岸种植区和安第斯山脚葡萄园开始发展,1982 年Pablo Morandé在参观完美国加州卡内罗斯(Carneros,纳帕和索诺马交界)后,开始在冷且多风的卡萨布兰卡山谷(Casablanca Valley)种植葡萄园。

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随后20世纪90年代到来,一批新的优秀葡萄酒区逐渐被开发,产区遍及全国:

1993年- 里马利山谷(Limari )

1993年- 比奥比奥山谷(Bio Bio Valley)

1995年- 玛野高山谷(Malleco Valley)

1997年- 艾尔奇山谷(Elqui Valley)

1998年- 圣安东尼奥山谷(San Antonio Valley)

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2007年- Fundo Lechagua酒厂在首都圣地亚哥以南超过1100公里的齐罗艾岛(Chiloe Island)开始开辟葡萄园。位于南端的奥索勒诺(Osorno)的Lake District镇上,Vina Momberg第一次种植黑皮诺和长相思。

2012年- 为了便于管理,又推出3个法定区域名号:海岸区(Costa), 安第斯山区(Andes) 和中间区(Entre Cordilleras),覆盖整个智利产区。

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2013年智利最大的葡萄酒集团Concha y Toro的酿酒师Marcelo Papa在被Decanter采访时提到,智利现在不断在新葡萄种植区里寻找合适的风土条件来发展葡萄园,使之已成为世界上最活跃的葡萄酒产区国之一。

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其实纵观这几十年的产区开拓,智利虽然已发展出不少有独特风土的葡萄酒产区,北至阿塔卡玛区的科皮亚坡山谷(COPIAPO VALLEY)和胡阿斯克山谷(HUASCO VALLEY),南至卡乌丹山谷(CAUTIN VALLEY)和奥索勒诺山谷(OSORNO VALLEY),但其实还有很大的潜力可挖掘。智利葡萄酒产业的未来发展空间巨大。

wine map of chile

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欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

 

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,资深葡萄酒和烈酒收藏顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师

 

王智慧(Serien WANG)

– 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者,《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监,万欧兰葡萄酒教育葡萄酒讲师

五月最佳性价比品酒会-葡道澳洲顶级酒品鉴

图文 / 陆江     编辑 / 王智慧

提到本月(2015年5月)北京品酒会的性价比,我相信北京葡道(Pudao Wines)举办的这场面向公众爱好者的澳大利亚顶级葡萄酒品酒会,完全有资格荣膺最佳。

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这场品酒会的酒款阵容豪华,都是来自于最新版-第六版澳洲最著名的精品酒(Fine Wine)排行榜-兰顿等级榜(简称兰顿榜)的最高级Exceptional的入列酒。作为澳洲零售业巨头WLG(Woolworth’s Lioquor Group)在华的全资分支酒类零售机构-葡道的这次手笔不小。6款酒每套酒(每种一瓶)的价格就在1万5千左右,而实收不到200元的品鉴费,是绝对的超值。当然葡道是有推广市场的因素,不过对于消费者来说是实打实的福利。

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这次超值活动还吸引到不少北京业内的不同酒商和葡萄酒教育机构的专业人士自费来参加。葡道总经理Marcus也专程从上海过来站台支持。

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每一款都是来自于不同的生产商,都是颇具声誉的澳洲重量级精品酒:

Grosset Polish hill Riesling是公认的白葡萄品种雷司令顶级生产商,以往试过数回,很喜欢他家风格,纯净又不失复杂度和集中度;

Giaconda Estate vineyard Chardonnay公认的澳洲白葡萄品种夏多内超一流作品,这一领域强手如林,我是第一次品鉴,竟有几分勃艮第夏多内顶级生产商Cochy dury的风格和实力;

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon,西澳赫赫有名的精品酒生产商,赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)做得精致,又有很强陈年实力;

Penfolds(奔富)707也是澳洲顶级赤霞珠的代表之一,在中国知名度最高的澳洲顶级精品酒之一;

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh shiraz是饱满强劲型澳洲顶级西拉子的代表作品之一。Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah是饱满不失优雅的澳洲顶级西拉子的代表,具备举重若轻的超一流实力。

 

详细酒款表现可参见后附的酒评记录(记录者:独立酒评人,国际国内葡萄酒大赛评委陆江)。现场还有专程来访的兰顿榜的创立者,国际著名葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW,他主持品鉴讲解现场的澳洲顶级酒和一些理念的分享。

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Andrew Caillard MW / 陆江摄影

Andrew Caillard MW虽然是英国人,但却是公认的澳大利亚葡萄酒权威,而且他对中国葡萄酒产区也相当熟悉——他曾走访中国10年之久,拍摄了一部与特定时期中国葡萄酒市场,消费理念,中国国产酒相关的获奖纪录片“红色痴迷(Red Obsession)”。

前几天我在澳洲走访维多利亚州产区时,看到一些名庄的酒屋(Cellar Door)里摆着“兰顿(Langton)的等级表”, 后来和当地葡萄酒工作者交流时知道,在澳洲精品酒市场,尤其拍卖和收藏领域,兰顿榜有着主导的影响力。

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陆江酒评词:

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2014
青柠,柑橘,白桃,油脂,中等酒体,酸度强劲贯穿,果味充沛,有一定集中度,口中有矿物感,有层次感,细腻,回味长。

Giaconda estate vineyard Chardonnay 2011
香气充沛,烤坚果,橘子,热带水果,香草,复杂,精致;中重酒体,酸度强,酒体和酸度整合不错,很平衡,集中,富有层次,香气丰富,回味长。实力强劲,有国际一线的勃艮第顶级夏朵内(Chardonnay)生产商Cochy Dury的风格。

Moss wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑莓,香料,黑醋栗,雪茄盒,精致气息,中重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁细致中强,平衡,回味长。

Penfolds(奔富) 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑醋栗,香草,雪茄盒,香料,咖啡豆,细致均衡的香气,重酒体,单宁强细致耐嚼,酸度中强,平衡,回味长,咖啡豆。

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh 2008 Shiraz
太妃糖,咖啡豆,香料,奶油,还有明显桉树叶气息,重酒体,单宁中强,质地厚实,酸度中强,饱满庞大,回味长。

Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah  2006
皮革,动物,黑巧克力,果酱,雪茄盒,甜香料,奶油,咖啡豆,复杂,重酒体,饱满庞大,单宁强但优雅细致,均衡分布,层次丰富,回味长。

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An Overview on New Zealand Winemaking Industry and the Chinese Wine Market

Photo & Text :Maxime LU

Source: ProWine China

In February, I was invited to visit most major wine regions in New Zealand. During the visit, I visited some chateaus with different styles and attended Regional Wines Tastings, which presented a complete picture of the southern-most wine producing country in the world. New Zealand wines feature consistent quality and reasonable price. They are lively, pure and full-bodied. They have clean aromas and distinctive characters. In particular, they boast of rich diversity, which is openly criticized by a lot of Chinese wine enthusiasts.

New Zealand stretches roughly 1,600 km from the North Island (36° S) to Central Otago (47° S), the world’s southern-most wine region. The country has a maritime climate, with all vineyards lying less than 130 km to the coast. Plenty of sunshine in the daytime and cool sea breeze at night result in big temperature difference in many wine regions, offering ideal production conditions for the growth of wine grapes. Being a coastal country, New Zealand rarely has extreme weather conditions. In addition, due to frequent crustal activities (numerous earthquakes and volcanoes), the change of river channels and human factors, New Zealand has complicated ground features and landforms, diverse soil constitutions as well as extremely different microclimates in different parcels. All these terroirs guarantee the diversity of local wines.

Another aspect worth noting is that grape planting in New Zealand originated in 1819, while the country’s winemaking industry hadn’t taken off until forty years ago, not being fettered by traditions. Rapid promotion of new technologies and constant innovation have been witnesses ever since. Meanwhile, local terroirs have been explored. Thanks to these efforts, the grape planting and winemaking techniques of the country’s winemaking industry have reached the world’s top level. The research on the microclimates and parcels in grape planting regions has reached a high level. As a result, the features of different parcels can be fully utilized. For instance, Pinot Noir grown in Wairarapa, Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury/Waipara Valley and Central Otago all have unique regional characteristics.

In terms of area, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are New Zealand’s leading varieties. In addition, there are quite a few aromatic varieties, such as Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Many winemaking practitioners are from other countries, where different grape varieties are planted. They are seeking for ideal vineyards to plant new varieties, such as Sangiovese, Malbec, Tempranilo, Albarino and Gruner Veltliner. New grape varieties with outstanding characteristics are planted. The diversification of grape varieties will be a trend of the country’s winemaking industry.

According to data of 2014, the overall plantings in New Zealand is 35,510 ha (1% higher than 2013), less than one-third of that of Bordeaux. The country produced 320 million liters of wine in that year, accounting for only 1% of the world’s total. New Zealand’s winemaking industry is small in scale. However, the unit price of wine ranks high among all wine producing countries. Therefore, the country pursues the strategy of offering wine with top quality. In New Zealand, 95% of chateaus are members of Sustainable Wine Growing New Zealand (SWNZ), and some of them even meet the standards of carbon neutrality.

New Zealand’s forward-looking winemaking industry strives to promote government legislation in a bid to enhance IPR protection and crack down on counterfeiting and infringement on local varietals. In April 2015, New Zealand Ministry of Economic Development and New Zealand Winegrowers jointly declared to establish the Geographical Indications (GI) system to protect the country’s internationally famed winemaking regions and varietals. It’s expected that the system will be established by the end of this year.

New Zealand winemaking industry entered the Chinese market in 2007. At that time, French wines dominated China’s imported wine market. In 2008, China and New Zealand signed the Free Trade Agreement, a turning point for the promotion of New Zealand wines in China. Soon, China rose to New Zealand’s biggest trading partner. According to the FTA between the two countries, zero tariffs will be imposed on New Zealand wines exported to China as from January 1, 2012, further cementing the confidence of New Zealand winemaking industry.

In market expansion, New Zealand winemaking industry is also pragmatic and ambitious. The growth rate of export value of wines is the highest of the country’s exported goods. In the end of 2014, wine ranked No.6 in the country’s exports.

With a small winemaking industry, New Zealand pursues the path of providing the finest varietal wines. Based on research and analysis on the Chinese wine market with huge potential, the country has worked out pragmatic and forward-looking promotional plans. Several years ago, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and New Zealand Winegrowers jointly introduced the highly efficient Wine High Impact Programme. Under the programme, influential wine experts from New Zealand participated in various campaigns in the Chinese wine market to build the country’s image as a leading winemaker.

Selected measures in recent years:
– Launching a dedicated Chinese website to promote New Zealand wines;
– Organizing New Zealand wine trade fairs regularly, with workshops, symposiums and food & wine matching dinners;
– Organizing delegations to participate in the most influential local wine trade fairs, such as Prowine China;
– Organizing key opinion leaders (KOL) and experts in China’s winemaking industry for study tours in New Zealand’s winemaking regions, and establishing KIWI CLUB for networking to enable more consumers to gain a knowledge of New Zealand wines;
– Carrying out traditional and social media-based marketing campaigns, for instance, interacting with consumers and publishing information via Weibo (microblog) and WeChat;
– Offering educational programs for New Zealand winemaking practitioners, for instance, holding workshops in the country to help local wineries to gain a better understanding of the Chinese market, so as to work out effective development strategies and expansion plans.

Meanwhile, New Zealand winemaking industry often launches training programs on local wines. For instance, in April, top wine masters from the country offered New Zealand wine certification programs for professionals. In addition to tier-1 cities, such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, training and certification systems are expected to cover tier-2 and tier 3 cities leading wine consumption.

Thanks to consistent efforts of New Zealand winemaking industry, the country’s wine exports to China rose from 268,000 liters (RMB 12.5 million in value) in 2007 to 1,920,000 liters (RMB 131 million in value) in 2014. In 2014, China became New Zealand’s sixth biggest destinations of wine exports, ranking after Australia, the U.S., the UK, Canada and the Netherlands.

Since the second half of 2012, the Chinese wine market has witnessed continued depression due to policy changes. In particular, the year 2014 is regarded as the most sluggish period. China’s total wine imports decreased by 5.7% compared with that of 2013. Nevertheless, wines imported from New Zealand rose by 34% in value and 11% in quantity during the same period. New Zealand wines have further expanded the share in China’s imported wine market. New Zealand winemaking industry has seen more potential in the Chinese market.

New Zealand winemaking industry has much confidence and expectations on the Chinese market. New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and New Zealand Winegrowers have jointly defined the goal towards the Chinese market in the next 5 years: The country’s wine exports to China will reach NZ$150 million by 2020. We are keen to see whether the goal will be realized.

– LU Jiang ( Maxime LU )