中国最西的葡萄酒产区伊犁河谷

图文:陆江 | 葡萄酒在线

 

国产葡萄酒近年来崛起速度非常快,从早期的难以下咽,到现在精品辈出。而这些显著进步,其实也就是十来年的光景。这让我对走访国内的葡萄酒产区越来越有兴趣,很想了解是什么样的风土和人在推动国产酒的快速发展。上月正好国内顶尖的葡萄酒品牌营销专家郭校长,约着一起去新疆伊犁河谷葡萄酒产区看看。我正好有空,走起!

其实我对伊犁河谷的认知,只是限于旅游资源和瓜果梨桃,而对于伊犁是葡萄酒产区,实在一无所知。

出发前做了点小功课,才知道伊犁河谷是中国最西边的葡萄酒产区,位于天山山脉西端,三面环山,地处北纬42°14’-44°50’。提到维度,特别说一下,伊犁河谷和波尔多的纬度是真正有重合的。中国老有一些产区明明和波尔多不在一个维度,却爱硬凑。

 

 

在航班上俯瞰伊犁

 

伊犁河谷三面环山,山脉阻挡了寒流、热浪、沙尘暴等恶劣气候,西面开口,迎接源自大西洋的暖湿气流。伊犁河谷气候温和湿润,属于温带大陆性气候,年平均气温10.4℃,年日照时数2870小时。

 

伊犁河谷年降水量417.6毫米,山区达600 毫米,是新疆最湿润的地区,森林覆盖达到16%。1000多公里的伊犁河顺着天山南麓沿河谷流出,向西汇入霍尔果斯河,进入哈萨克斯坦境内,水流充沛,造就了“塞外江南”的美景和丰富的物产,也能为葡萄种植提供必要的水资源。

 

充足的光照、明显的昼夜温差,超长的葡萄生长季,有利于葡萄糖分和酚类物质的积累和成熟;当地排水性好且肥力不高的砂质土壤,有利于葡萄深入扎根。当然冬季还有极端低温,所以需要埋土抗寒抗干,葡萄架型还是会受限制。

 

今年6月底7月初的北京,热得有点让人不省心。温度已超不少火炉城市的三伏。本以为去新疆是更热的苦旅。结果7月1日出发当天,查了天气预告,伊犁首府伊宁的气温竟然和避暑度假圣地相仿。一下子心情就欢快了。

 

航程目标是伊犁首府伊宁。我12点50从北京起飞,大约飞了不到四小时,到达乌鲁木齐。

候机大厅到处是新疆特产: 薰衣草精油,馕,和田玉,新鲜水果和果干,还有好看的热巴小姐姐。

 


 

航班在机场暂停不到一小时,紧接着飞往伊宁,一个半小时左右,降落。团队小伙伴们汇合,深圳的陈总武总,北京的战老师,玉女神,小一和我,上海的郭校长和侯总。

伊宁机场到达出口首先看到的是当地大比例薰衣草产业的相关宣传,很快也看到与葡萄酒相关的宣传-伊犁河谷产区的代表酒庄之一丝路酒庄的广告牌。

 

 

 

从机场到酒店,沿途市容,绿化和建筑,出乎我意料,猛一看还以为是江浙沿海发展不错的城市一般。

入住新开没多久的酒店天缘国际,软硬件还真不错,在国内西部城市的五星级酒店里算是前茅。迎宾的水果甚得我心,尤其是应季的杏,成熟度很高,在北京很难吃到。我的房间还是河景房,看到伊犁当地的主力水系命脉:伊犁河,水量不小。

 

当地到21点天还是亮着,不过我们北京时差的胃早已开始有所反应。

晚上在突玛丽斯大饭店,丝路酒庄庄主李勇,还带了丝路酒庄在伊犁河谷最东边产区出产的雷司令干白,蛮干净清新,酸度活跃,当开胃酒很适合。尝到了不少当地的特色菜,马肉肠果然很有马味(Bret),霸王牛头气势过人、胶质充沛适合爱美女生,烤羊腿香嫩很棒;

 

必须要提到几种主食真的做得好吃,尤其丁丁炒面筋道质地和烹制火候到位,汤饭(面片汤)鲜香辣调得适口,手抓饭口感丰富鲜香。

 

对了,还有蜂蜜要提一下,餐桌上有款饮料是需要加蜂蜜的,服务员拿过来的蜂蜜,品质不错,口感细腻,而且有淡雅的茉莉等花香,我们刚夸赞了一下,服务员像看到了刘姥姥一般得回了一句:“这就是我们这里的普通蜂蜜。” 嗯,这次必须要买些回去。

 

第二天一早,和丝路酒庄李总聊起当地水果,原来当地还有覆盆子和黑加仑鲜果出产,不过不是这季能吃到的。这季主要吃瓜桃杏李,而且有机会吃到树熟的果子,喜欢!

和李总交流后,又在度娘上确认了一下:伊犁河谷东西长360公里、南北最宽处275公里,面积5.64万平方公里,有着各异的小气候和地物地貌,隶属于伊犁哈萨克自治州,辖伊犁州8县1市以及兵团农四师和21个团场等单位,人口232.56万。

看了下我们的行程计划,2天,其中安排了参观丝路酒庄的三个葡萄园,分布在伊犁河谷的三个区域:

– 位于河谷中部,是在新疆建设兵团农四师70团这边,相对湿润温暖;

– 位于河谷东边,是72团范围里,库尔德宁以东5公里的一片北山坡上,相对冷凉湿润;

– 位于河谷西边,是67团范围里,相对温暖干燥多风。

 

上午参观的丝路酒庄的葡萄园,就是属于河谷中部,离伊宁20多公里。种植有鲜食和酿酒葡萄,土壤是粘土和沙质混合土壤。当地年降雨量约为400多毫米,主要集中在4、5、6、7和10月。

 

李总提到,当地葡萄园一般4月发芽,10月采收,生长季很长,很多晚熟品种都可以获得糖分和酚类物质的成熟。当然因为光照充分,酒精度会相对偏高。当地年平均气温偏低,酸度不是每年都需要调整,而且也可以用高酸高单宁的Saperavi(格鲁吉亚特色品种)基酒来调整酸度。在酒窖里桶边品鉴的结果看,丝路酒庄的酒还是蛮平衡的,感觉不到酒精热感带来的突兀。

 

另外李总从去年开始,在部分丝路酒庄的葡萄园实施限产。拔除了近半的葡萄藤,然后根据目标产量,倒推出每株的留芽数量。

 

看得出,既有情怀又很务实的李总,对伊犁河谷产区花了很多资源和精力,对当地产区和葡萄园相当了解,也有很大的信心在这片产区做出高水准的葡萄酒。

 

丝路酒庄除雷司令、霞多丽、赤霞珠、蛇龙珠、梅洛和Saperavi(格鲁吉亚特色品种)等品种外,还种了些小味儿多(Petit Verdot),李总对小味儿多比较感兴趣,以后可能会用小味儿多取代Saperavi。

 

 

对于伊犁河谷葡萄酒产区来说,成立于1964年,当地最早也是最大规模的葡萄酒生产巨头伊珠酒庄,在聊伊犁河谷产区历史时,是绝对绕不过去的。现在伊力特白酒是伊珠葡萄酒的大股东,我们去参观了伊珠的厂区,酒窖,酒厂历史展示区,还品鉴了干红,冰酒等。

 

伊珠老厂房的旁边正在蒸馏薰衣草精油,远远地就能闻到薰衣草主调的香气。

 

午餐吃到了当地著名的兵团大包子。

 

下午去河谷东边72团的路上,看到一片不小的薰衣草田。花田旁居然还有养蜂人的蜂箱,薰衣草蜂蜜! 感谢新疆通的李总,他亲自出马,帮我们搞定了薰衣草蜂蜜。本来他还准备在库尔德宁那边再帮我们弄一些,据说那边丝路酒庄葡萄园附近有更好的蜂蜜,可惜下午我们去时,才得知因为今年气候不佳没有收成。

 

就在李总帮我们去和蜂农沟通时,一帮不太年轻的中老年人,还去薰衣草田里拍了好几张“致青春”照,感觉文艺心都快赶上精品购物的翔大师翔文艺了。

 

说到薰衣草,我们很幸运,每年6月中下旬到7月初正好是新疆伊犁河谷薰衣草的花季,花季一过就要采收,提炼精油。 伊犁是与法国普罗旺斯、日本北海道富良野齐名的世界三大薰衣草基地之一。我们还去参观了新疆著名的伊帕尔汗薰衣草观光园,这是个4A级景区,成片紫色的薰衣草和马鞭草,勾起点心底的小浪漫。

 

观光园还有不少薰衣草产品,精油,手工皂,面膜,薰衣草干花等,伙伴们的购买力还是相当可观的。

 

傍晚到达位于伊犁河谷东边,库尔德宁以东5公里的一片北山坡上,丝路酒庄的葡萄园里种着适合冷凉气候的白葡萄品种,霞多丽,贵人香和雷司令。这里年降雨量约600毫升,斜坡葡萄园,行走起来还蛮累,出品就是第一晚尝过的那款清新活跃的雷司令。

 

丝路酒庄庄主李勇

 

周围山坡是半自然状态的草甸,听着山涧溪水声,爬上高处远眺对面,竟有几分瑞士或是意大利山地绿植覆盖的美景。看着夕阳日落,感慨着老天眷顾伊犁的美景资源,做着未来再来这里看景休假的白日梦。

 

 


日落后,降温很快,我们也下撤,前往一户李总相熟的农家乐,长袖薄外套这时候该用上了,温度估计十来度,吃点开胃的西瓜和香瓜,还有树熟的杏。晚餐虽说是农家乐,可鸡牛羊蔬菜等食材很棒,整个菜式出品,除摆盘没那么精细外,口感完全不逊于前一天吃的高级大饭店,最后上的裤带面,让我忍不住想说新疆主食无敌了,立志减肥者还是不要到伊犁哦。

 

最后一天行程,是一路向西,到伊犁河谷的最西边,丝路酒庄在67团的葡萄园,那里已经是和哈萨克斯坦接壤的边境。

沿途还有叫卖吊死干,下车一问,原来是指树熟的杏,吊在枝头有点风干,也叫树上干杏,闻起来会多些杏干的风味,入口更甜。卖果大叔还在晒杏干,也卖野生的黑小麦和枸杞。

 

吊死干

 

 

应季的瓜果桃李杏

 

 

羊交易集市

因为路过惠远古城,我们还参观了惠远古城历史文化展览。

伊犁河谷惠远城,地处战略要地,曾是新疆首府所在,也是丝路重镇。历史上沙俄的掠夺,被迫的赔款割地,疆土内缩,使它从远离边境的地方权力中心变为边陲小镇。伊犁河谷也在历史巨变中,留下不少时光的佐证。包括这新疆最高长官伊犁将军们所在的权利中心的惠远古城和林则徐遗迹,

 

首任伊犁将军明瑞

 

午餐吃到了盼望已久的伊犁河的鲜鱼,还是水准不弱的农家乐。

 

终于到了中国最西边的葡萄园,丝路酒庄在67团的葡萄园,这边年降水仅200毫米左右,温暖干燥多风,从而病害也少,葡萄园生态很好,葡萄藤里居然看到鸟巢,甚至还有鸟蛋。李总前些天来时,还在另一个鸟窝里看到孵出的小鸟。

 


丝路酒庄在这里种植了赤霞珠、小味儿多、马瑟兰、马尔贝克、美乐、品丽珠等品种,约1,000亩。

附近有清代用于防御守卫的战力单元卡伦(图是纳旦木卡伦)。

 


然后我们溜达溜达就到了这个地方,中国和哈萨克斯坦的边境,因为国际政治风云变幻,中哈边界也成了严防死守的区域。

 

当时的念头:自己虽为蚁族小民,能在和平年代和安逸地带生存生活,已是幸运。

 

最后一晚,察布查尔,晚餐,羊排,香椿鸡蛋,牛肉,鱼肉,几道野菜,完满!

 

回京,乌鲁木齐机场转机,传送带上的丝路酒庄巨型酒瓶,有点波尔多机场的感觉。

 

到京,继续……消暑休假后的红尘生活。

陆江香格里拉葡萄酒产区行

图文:陆江 | 葡萄酒在线

 

香格里拉葡萄酒产区,几年前曾试过一些当地出的小产区葡萄酒,有一两款水准可以是在中国最高品质的葡萄酒之列。 再加上我跟踪好些年的,国际奢侈品巨鳄LVMH在香格里拉投的酒庄项目,其出产的敖云也成为最具国际化的中国葡萄酒第一贵酒。

我对香格里拉产区有着极大的好奇,甚至觉得神秘,可一直无缘走访。 香格里拉产区在我心里有很多符号,高海拔,茶马古道,入云的雪山,藏区,美丽的卓玛,很长的生长季,传说中的圣地,莫名的酒庄,世界最高海拔之一的葡萄园,网上图片里美得令人窒息的景色,条件艰苦……除了最后一条,其它都让我神往。

终于……惊喜降临,我和另外几位熟识的媒体好友,应邀去走访这个传说中的产区,特别感谢香格里拉酒庄。正值5月春末夏初,气候适宜的季节。

从北京过去,根据酒庄、葡萄园和机场分布位置,优化的葡萄酒旅游路线是,从北京直飞丽江,在当地逛一下古镇,驱车一路往北,到位于香格里拉开发区的酒庄,然后参观在不同村落小产区的葡萄园,葡萄园分布较广,所以中间会在德钦停留,然后最终到达香格里拉。最后从香格里拉搭飞机从昆明转机回京。行程共三晚。

因为有了诱惑,我也不太艰难地接受了早起,于是顺利搭上8点起飞的航班,11点30降落丽江。

 

束河古镇

从丽江机场到束河古镇不到一小时,在农家乐畅快地吃了一顿,初尝了琵琶肉等地方特色菜肴。

还有两小时逛逛束河古镇,虽然商业化也无可避免地在此蔓延,餐厅酒吧店铺已是偏多,不过幸好现在还不是旅游最旺季,游人倒是不多,春夏带来满眼的繁花绿叶,穿插着小桥流水,还有应季的粉嫩樱桃(奇怪,这樱桃入口真的很柔嫩),一切还是感觉美好。

然后神奇的老天出场表演,于是20多分钟内体会了东边日出西边雨,冰雹,急雨,阴天,多云更替。就近避雨,在一家土特产店里,还看到本地食材腊排骨的原貌。

 

小镇里溜达,时不时还有就业机会。

最后小困小累之际,阅人间无数的翔大师,通过女店主的眼神和肢体语言,很快判断出一家靠谱茶铺,我们在这家有自家茶园的茶铺,品茗闲聊,居然还尝到到两款水准不错的红茶和生普。不过遗憾的是,女老板提到要结业关店,一是要照顾孩子,二是隔壁开了家重庆火锅,她怕茶味被染麻辣味道。

 

束河古镇还真蛮适合那些喜欢红尘人气,又怀揣情怀的饮食男女。

雨又起,该去香格里拉酒庄品酒。

 

香格里拉酒庄

直奔位于香格里拉开发区的香格里拉酒庄。作为国内酒水巨头金东集团(前华泽集团)旗下的精品酒酒庄,香格里拉酒庄正蓄势待发。

他们和国际奢侈品第一巨头LVMH(路易威登母公司)合资的酒庄,发布的敖云葡萄酒,现在已是国际市场上中国精品葡萄酒的代表之一,也是具有国际声誉的中国葡萄酒的第一高价酒(300美金左右一瓶)。

敖云的葡萄园就是从香格里拉酒庄的葡萄园中精选出的一小部分。

在酒庄我们学习了香格里拉酒庄所在产区的概况介绍,更细节地了解到这个产区的风土特质:低纬度高海拔(海拔范围两三千米),处于“三江并流”的核心地带,金沙江、澜沧江和怒江在不同岁月带来不同的沉积质,形成极为复杂的地物地貌土壤构成,丰富不同的小气候,极长生长季(180-200天),较少病虫害,全年日照达2500小时以上,降雨量200-600毫米(主要在转色期前),不用埋土……。所有特质,造就了世界上独一无二的极富多样性的难得产区。

 

现在我才真正理解精品葡萄酒超级巨头LVMH,为什么会扎根于此,那么艰苦的又极富潜力的神奇产区。

在酒庄还见到了专职负责葡萄园管理的团队和酿造团队,没想到技术人员们都是已经安心在这个艰苦产区积累了数年到十多年。难能可贵!

从与团队的交流和酒庄介绍,我们了解到,香格里拉酒庄从2000年建立,至今已探索积累了不少,在各个村庄产区里小地块的风土资料,以及尝试摸索了不少葡萄品种在当地小地块的表现特点……还有建立了酵母选用,叶幕管理,病虫害的生态防止等一整套管理体系。

媒体团和部分酒庄工作人员

我深深地感到,假以时日,香格里拉酒庄的出品会在国际精品葡萄酒领域可以搞出大事。

当然最终还是要看酒庄作品的实力,我们品鉴了基础款和实验款,有霞多丽干白,梅洛,赤霞珠。还有西拉干红,要特别提一下这西拉,是典型冷气候西拉,黑胡椒黑色水果为主的气息,单宁成熟细致,酚类和糖分双成熟,不错的集中度和清新感,西拉在此应该很有潜力,可以成为特色风土出品之一。 最后两款是威代尔品种的贵腐甜白酒,蛮干净的;晚收霞多丽,香气猛一闻有百香果等主导气息,很像长相思,有趣。

入夜就近入住酒店,晚餐试到不少当地美食,尤其喜欢当地特色包浆豆腐。

 

正值香格里拉酒庄,即将要进入基酒调配阶段。酒庄来自于澳洲雅拉谷的顾问Marc,带我们去酒窖做桶边品鉴,因为橡木桶里的酒,就是会用来调配的基酒。

我们尝试了东水村斜坡高处F地块的赤霞珠2016,中重酒体,单宁成熟中强,细腻雅致风格。东水村平坦地块的赤霞珠2016,果味和黑巧克力气息充沛,单宁强,重酒体,中段稍空。

还有斯农村的碎石地块2016年份赤霞珠和砾石土壤地块2016年份赤霞珠,明显砾石地块的单宁更为厚实。

斯农村碎石地块2017年份赤霞珠和砾石地块的2017年份赤霞珠,感受2017有比2016更结实成熟的单宁,砾石地块赤霞珠结构庞大完整,能感受到有强大的陈年潜力。

酒庄这几款不同村出产培养出来的基酒,各自反应当地的风土,完全可以调配出很高水准的葡萄酒,整体实力超过我的预期。

从酒庄出来,去宾馆,路遇哈巴雪山观景台。不过机缘未至,不得见。

 

四个单一葡萄园

令人期待的产区走访开始了,因为香格里拉酒庄“圣域”葡萄酒来自四个单一葡萄园,分别位于东水村、斯农村、西当村和阿东村这四个村落,垂直分布于高山河谷之中,立体气候差异显著。所以根据时间,我们会去走访其中部分村落葡萄园。

 

东水村葡萄园

我们首先特意走访了路途险峻,极为独特的东水村葡萄园,听同行的郭校长提起,我们运气不错,去年不少路段都是土路,今年明显水泥路段要多了不少。一路行车,能看到山体频繁滑坡和落石,是这边盘山道路的常态。

山路崎岖,车道旁又是深渊,我被吓得紧抓翔大师的胳膊,也顾不得男男授受不亲了。

 

东水村位于金沙江沿岸,三面环山,属于干热河谷气候,海拔2350米。此葡萄园面积最小,占地4公顷,以砾石土壤为主,主要种植赤霞珠及少量西拉。为了保证葡萄优良品质,亩产均控制在300到400公斤。

东水村葡萄园从制高点俯看,像世外桃源般的谷地。雪山融雪顺着水道滋养着这片葡萄园。

 

东水村葡萄园管理员培布是位藏族帅小伙,淳朴热情专业,七年来扎根于此,指导乡亲们种植,日复一日地观察记录着葡萄长势变化。

我(陆江)和培布(右一)

我们还去培布住的藏民家里参观,喝了房东煮的地道酥油茶,还有家常茶点。哦,对了,这边藏区也盛产核桃,很多核桃老树,很粗壮,我一个人环抱都围不住。

核桃老树

 

德钦的高原反应

入住德钦,让我人生有了第一次高原反应的体会,在我们的宾馆,我测了海拔,3363米,一晚上的头痛欲裂,一早无力起床,有点作呕。连预想的极为难得的日照金山盛景,都没法去窗台拍。仅用手机在窗帘夹缝里捏了一张。据说有很多游客在当地耗了很久,来了好几次都没有看到日照金山的壮观。我倒是运气有了,可没想到高反会那么强烈。

想想作为世界上最高海拔的葡萄酒产区之一,酒庄当地工作人员真是大不易。

 

圣地梅里雪山的最高峰卡瓦格博峰

虽然德钦的高原反应让我萎靡,不过见到世界最美雪山梅里雪山的最高峰卡瓦格博峰(尚未被人类登顶,海拔6740米,也是藏传佛教的朝觐之地),还是让我振奋一下,下意识又吸了两口氧气。观景台有位大叔等了一周才遇到神山露脸,我们又是人品爆发。

西当村葡萄园

位于澜沧江沿岸的西当村,也属冷凉河谷气候,海拔2200米,葡萄园占地6.7公顷,以沙质土和砾质褐土为主,主要种植赤霞珠品种。葡萄园的管理员李达,对这片葡萄园非常熟悉,每个地块的气候特点都了如指掌。

到达西当村,负责香格里拉酒庄种植的王总陪同我们,为我们介绍每片目力所及的葡萄园种植管理,以及和当地藏区果农们的沟通协调安排工作的概况。 据说后者一直是敖云酒庄那边外方管理人员最棘手的难点。

 

王总在这产区已经深耕十多年,在他脑子里每个地块的风土特点,葡萄品种特质如数家珍。还有厉害的是,在葡萄园管理中各个村的藏民果农的技术培训和工作安排,都被他兼顾多方要求和利益,灵活安排得相得益彰,一路上无论当地村官和地里果农,都很尊敬他。我蛮佩服像王总这样情商和智商双高的大才。

王总(左)和我(陆江)

 

在西当村也“顺便”看了看中国第一国际化贵酒敖云的部分葡萄园,正好在施药防治病害,葡萄园景观很美,当然也了解了一些他们面临的问题和挑战。不过不惜成本做好酒的理念还是其它酒庄没法效仿的。

敖云的葡萄园之一

 

斯农村葡萄园

下一站就是我挺感兴趣的斯农村,斯农村位于澜沧江沿岸,属于冷凉河谷气候,海拔2300米,葡萄园占地27.7公顷,是最大的单一园。葡萄园以褐土为主,土质疏松,通透性好,葡萄品种以赤霞珠为主,亩产同样控制在300到400公斤。管理员是陈建华。

斯农村村委会

 

 

斯农村,是我个人在品鉴后觉得,具有出顶尖水准葡萄酒的葡萄园。现场看到葡萄园里不同小地块的多样风土,务实的架型管理等,潜力值得期待。

王总在指导藏民乡亲如何剪枝

 

就近我们还去了茶马古道的旧址,澜沧江上古道的铁索桥还依旧可用,我走得战战兢兢,也算感受了一下古道行走的不易。

 

最后一个单一葡萄园是阿东村,位于澜沧江沿岸,两面靠山,海拔高达2600米,在四个村落中属最高。葡萄园面积20公顷,以褐土、黏土为主,主要种植红葡萄赤霞珠,同时也种植白葡萄品种霞多丽,亩产量控制在500到600公斤。

可惜时间问题,我们就没去走访。

综合这三个走访过的单一葡萄园村落,以及这几天接触到的香格里拉酒庄,踏实做事、已有颇多积淀的员工们,我可以说香格里拉酒庄已经具备出产国际高水准葡萄酒的实力。虽然最终出品还有很多影响因素,不过我还是挺期待的。

 

返程

是夜,入住香格里拉,因为也是海拔3000多米,高原反应依旧,我抱了两个氧气管才熬过一晚。一早直奔香格里拉机场。苦捱到登机,一直到昆明转机,我简直有大病初愈的感觉。

特别夸一下昆明机场的美食,种类多,价格合理,一顿午餐,我满血复活了。

到京,行程的美好,继续回味中。下次再有机会去高过3000米海拔的城市过夜,绝不能高估自己的高反耐受力,买药还是必须的。

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 曾为Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛(Decanter Asia Wine Awards),意大利南部葡萄酒大赛(Puglia)、葡萄牙葡萄酒挑战大赛-Wines of Portugal Challenge(Lisboa)等国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委;美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,《葡萄酒在线》专栏撰稿人、《Decanter中文版-醇鉴中国》撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问和买手。

Interview on Winemaker of Aoyun, the most expensive Chinese Wine

Jiang LU (Maxime LU)

 

Speaking of the most expensive and most international wine now made in China, the first on the list should be Aoyun wine (AOYUN) produced in Yunnan Shangri-La by the world’s top luxury group LVMH. Many other domestic wines claimed to be the same,but we know they are just good at amusing themselves and access to only some special channels, even much more expensive than AOYUN.  While AOYUN is different,it has been tested by the consumers from London to New York fine wine market,approved by many international wine experts and specialists,accepted by the strongest wine merchants including BBR and Live-ex,and finally entered into Chinese market. Nonetheless,we have to admit its price is high(more than 2000RMB,300 euros around),that’s why it arouse so much controversy in domestic and international wine market.`

aoyun6

 

I have been following LVMH Aoyun winery since 2014. LVMH Group has always been a fine wine industry giant, owning such as Chateau Cheval Blanc、Chateau d’Yquem 、Domaine des Lambrays、Krug and many other super top wine brands. This time LVMH also plans to create a luxury boutique wine,which actually could benifit all Chinese wines by enhancing their international reputations。

aoyun9

 

Simple background information about Aoyun
It took LVMH four years to find a perfect vineyard. Finally they chose the site in Shangri-La, near Meili Snow Mountain (6800 meters above sea level), and beside the Mekong River.
The daylight hours in the mountains is only 8-9,less than that is in Bordeaux。It results in a long growing season, giving enough time for phenols,acids and sugars to ripe. The flowering period in Bordeaux is generally 100-120 days, while in Aoyun vineyard it could be up to 140-160 days.

The pruning and managing work is all done by hand。Traffic is a disaster。The vineyard,with a total area of around 28 hectares,2200-2600m above sea levels,is distributed in four villages and divided into 320 little plots(one plot covers an area of 1.3 acres on average)。Every hector requires about 3500 hours of manpower to manage。People who work in the field are mainly local Tibetans who have their own cultures and habits。It’s very difficult to communicate with them。

aoyun5

 

As mentioned earlier, at present the way Aoyun priced its products remains controversial. I wouldn’t judge it, but leave it to the consumers. What I will do is to share with you my experience of a serious Aoyun tasting. Besides, it’s so lucky for me to get a chance to interview Maxence Dulou, the chief winemaker of the winery.

Chief winemaker Maxence Dulou,live in Yunnan and work with the team since 2012,now is in charge of all the viticultural and winemaking work.

aoyun1

 

What do you think of other wine regions in China?

I’ve been to Shandong, and Ningxia twice in the past two years, where I had many quality red wines and do feel its big improvement. Nonetheless each of them has their own problems. In Shandong, there is too much rain, the weather is so wet that the grapes cannot achieve desired maturity, but with some green flavor. It would be difficult to develop organic there. While Ningxia is always sunny, the grapes are able to accumulate enough sugar in the harvest season,but lack acidity,and their tannins cannot ripe enough. It is very cold in the winter, so grapes need to be buried to keep warm. But overall it seems fairly comforting.

 

In your opinion,what technologies can be used to make up for the inadequacy caused by the weather?

It is the same to all the regions that if there is a real dizaster, the winemaker could do nothing but learn to be strong. The weather varies considerably from June to August in Yunnan。But when it comes to the harvest season, generally from mid-September to the end of October, everyday is sunny and dry, and the grapes can achieve satisfying maturity.

This kind of cliamte is suitable for the implementation of organic management, so that’s what we do there: use Bordeaux mixture and yak manure only in the vineyard; try to minimize human intervention as possible as we can so that the grapes can gradually adapt themselves to the environment and be able to cope up with all the harsh weathers.

Currently we have only three years cultivation experience and four years operation experience there. We need much more time to master all the micro-climate changes discipline in the production area.

 

Your vineyard is 2000m high above sea level, thus sunlight would be very strong in the summer. Do you have any special vineyard management techniques (framing, pruning, etc.)?

We use VSP model, which keeps the leaves all through the growing season and cuts some in the veraison period. The leaves facing southwest will always be kept to protect grapes from strong sunlight. The climate varies every year, so pruning work must be done depending on conditions. For example, this June is cloudy, which means we don’t need to cut too much. Unlike France, thick clouds will weaken the sunlight but will not block it,nor have any impact on the growth of the grapes. It is because we are in such a high altitude. The clouds are sometimes only 100 meters above our heads(and sometimes even below us). Sunlight can always find a way to penetrate the clouds into the vineyard to ripen the grapes.

aoyun4

What are the plans for the future development of the winery?
We’ll make new technical attempts such as cultivate more grape varieties, improve the pruning and grass planting work, use Chinese pottery in the fermentation and so on.

 

It is said the Chinese pottery you just mentioned have been used in making 2013 vintage of Aoyun Wine. Does it work well?

We had 40 days maceration(including fermentation), and then moved into second fermentation ( malo-lactic fermentation). 40% new french oak is used at this stage. The rest used old barrels as we normally do. But it is impossible for us to bring in barrels from France due to the inconvenient transportation. Nor could we purchase any old ones from nearby production areas, as different yeast may carry bad bacteria and cause contamination. Thus we chose to use a nuetral container, which could not add any floavor to the wine but will not add any bad effect either. The pottery was by far a satisfying choice. They are brand new,and use to hold local spirits.

 

Does Auyun use manual irrigation?

In California and Australia,the grape roots are bout 50cm long, people use drip irrigation, which means, you give grapes the exact amount what it needs. But drip irrigation will make the surface soil too hard. While in Ao Yun, the grape roots are up to 3 meters, so they can absorb more water from soil and need no irrigation. Natural rainfall is enough for them. In dry winter, we do small range of flood irrigation from time to time. In this way, we can both offer waters to the vine and avoid soil hardening.

 

3 meters’ roots? I thought Ao yun had only young vines? How do you control the quality of the grapes? (By Lu Jiang)

We call five or six years old vines young vines. But vines used to make this bottle are already 15 years old. There are many local farmers who planted grapes in this area far before we purchase the estate. At the first two years, we did a lot of research and finally planted some grapes in the last year (2015). These baby vines need time to produce qualified grapes for wine. However, the wine in front of us is made by grapes from 15 years old vine with 3 meters’ roots. 15 years old vine took half of the area of our current vineyard.

In the past, farmers sell grapes to the winery by weight. So you can imagine, the only thing they care about is yields. After we came, we tell the villagers how to work through an interpreter, stay in complete control of quality and rationalize ourselves. We did a lot work here, for example we introduced rootstock grafting. Fisrt, this can improve grape quality. Second, it can prevent Phylloxera——no signs of it now, but once it occurs,it would be a disaster. We analyze the composition and structure of the soil and chose the most suitable rootstock. If the rootstocks do improve the quality, we’ll replant all the old vines.

 

So actually you have studied the vineyards since long ago?
Yes,we started to plant grapes in 2015,but begun to communicate with local government since 2012,and have been studying the field since 2008,8 years ago.

aoyun3

 

Currently how many varieties are planted in the vineyards?
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Petit Verdot and some tested verities. Besides that, we planned to try Shira and Malbec, but stays undecided.

Does Domaine Chandon Ningxia purchase from COFCO Corporation Grape Seedling Base too?( By Lu Jiang)

yes!

 

How do you determine the time for Aoyun to come into the market officailly?
Its quality has been repeatedly confirmed that it can meet our strict requirements. Its performance is always stable. It is widely praised by all the international heavyweights in wine industry whom we sent the wine to. They all recognize it as a unique and great Cab, and the best wine in China. At this point, we thought we are ready to bring it to the market.

 

Could you describe Aoyun from your point of view?

It’s the new interpretation of Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep color, with both fresh fruit and ripe fruit characteristics. Freshness and lively acidity is from the unique terroir. Many people would think of Pauillac the first time they smell it,with similar aroma like cigar, tabacco and cedar. While someone find it more like California wines, very fruity, delicious, full-bodied. For me it’s somewhere in between. The tannin is as elegant and structured as I expected. In a word, we don’t want to cater to a growing demand fo strong wines, but a sophisticated and graceful wine, the wine that can represent the sacred mountain and its terroir.

aoyun8

aoyun7

AOYUN 2013  Tasting note (By Maxime LU)

Intense with ripe black fruit flavors, violets and western spices, revealing a trace of smoke and dark chocolate. Full-bodied and crisp, fruity-forward, with strong and converged tannins and delicate texture. Balanced, in the last part you can feel it slight alcoholic. Tobacco and spices can be found in the long finish, Alc.=15%, Ph=3.55

You can still tell that it’s from new world, but indeed elegant. I must say it’s good. As for the price, you can listen to either LVMH ( because of the high cost, more than Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau D’yquem) or some critics(almost as expensive as Chateau Cheval Blanc and Opus one, so unreasonable), or just keep quiet, wait and see how it will behave in the market.

Maxime LU

最贵国产酒敖云之酿酒师访谈

文:陆江(Maxime LU)

说到中国最贵的,也是最国际化的国产精品酒,世界第一奢侈品集团LVMH集团旗下的云南香格里拉出产的敖云葡萄酒(AOYUN),现阶段是名至实归的。它和某些国产酒厂的走特定渠道的自嗨型高价酒不同,敖云葡萄酒已经在伦敦和纽约等国际精品酒主力市场直面消费者,已经历了不少国际著名酒评人,大师的品鉴考验,也进入了包括BBR在内的一线酒商渠道,以及Liv-Ex伦敦葡萄酒交易所,也在中国市场开始推广和零售。当然由于其高昂的销售价格(人民币两千多元,约合300欧元的国内零售价),在国际国内葡萄酒市场引发了较大争议。

Speaking of the most expensive and most international wine now made in China, the first on the list should be Aoyun wine (AOYUN) produced in Yunnan Shangri-La by the world’s top luxury group LVMH. Many other domestic wines claimed to be the same,but we know they are just good at amusing themselves and access to only some special channels。While AOYUN is different,it has been tested by the consumers from London to New York fine wine market,approved by many international wine experts and specialists,accepted by the strongest wine merchants including BBR and Live-ex,and finally entered into Chinese market. Nonetheless,we have to admit its price is high(more than 2000RMB,300 euros around),that’s why it arouse so much controversy in domestic and international wine market。`

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我从2014年就开始关注LVMH的敖云酒庄这一项目。LVMH集团本来就也是精品酒业巨头,有白马、滴金、Domaine des Lambrays、Krug、香槟王等大牌顶级精品庄,种植酿酒实力强悍,推广和渠道资源也是无与伦比的。LVMH做这款酒的目标就是打造成奢侈品级的精品酒,这对提升中国葡萄酒在国际上的声誉是有颇多好处。

I have been following LVMH Aoyun winery since 2014. LVMH Group has always been a fine wine industry giant, owning such as Chateau Cheval Blanc、Chateau d’Yquem 、Domaine des Lambrays、Krug and many other super top wine brands. This time LVMH also plans to create a luxury boutique wine,which actually could benifit all Chinese wines by enhancing their international reputations。

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简单介绍一点敖云酒庄信息:

LVMH为了寻找合适的葡萄园就探索了4年,最终确定在香格里拉,梅里雪山(6800米海拔)附近,湄公河边。

酒庄葡萄园的日照条件由于地势阻挡,每天8-9小时,和波尔多相比是偏少的,不过导致了有很长的生长季,使酚类物质,酸度和糖份能较好地实现同步成熟。波尔多从开花到收获一般是100-120天,而敖云这边的葡萄园可达140-160天。

葡萄园完全是靠手工剪枝管理,总面积约28公顷,分布在4个村子,交通极为不方便。海拔高度约为2200-2600米,土壤和微气候有很好的多样性。葡萄园被分为320个小地块,平均面积约1.3亩,每年每公顷约需要3500工时来管理维护。当地以藏民劳力为主,语言和文化差异会是沟通的很大障碍。

Simple background information about Aoyun
It took LVMH four years to find a perfect vineyard. Finally they chose the site in Shangri-La, near Meili Snow Mountain (6800 meters above sea level), and beside the Mekong River.
The daylight hours in the mountains is only 8-9,less than that is in Bordeaux。It results in a long growing season, giving enough time for phenols,acids and sugars to ripe. The flowering period in Bordeaux is generally 100-120 days, while in Aoyun vineyard it could be up to 140-160 days.

The pruning and managing work is all done by hand。Traffic is a disaster。The vineyard,with a total area of around 28 hectares,2200-2600m above sea levels,is distributed in four villages and divided into 320 little plots(one plot covers an area of 1.3 acres on average)。Every hector requires about 3500 hours of manpower to manage。People who work in the field are mainly local Tibetans who have their own cultures and habits。It’s very difficult to communicate with them。

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就像前面提到,现在国内外市场上关于敖云葡萄酒的价格争议很大,我在此也无意评说价格是否合理,毕竟消费者会用手中货币进行投票。我这次有幸采访了酒庄的首席酿酒师Maxence Dulou,并且尝到了这款风云之酒,下面分享一下采访内容和我对这款酒的酒评词和评价。

As mentioned earlier, at present the way Aoyun priced its products remains controversial. I wouldn’t judge it, but leave it to the consumers. What I will do is to share with you my experience of a serious Auyun tasting. Besides, it’s so lucky for me to get a chance to interview Maxence Dulou, the chief winemaker of the winery.

首席酿酒师Maxence Dulou2013年搬到云南加入团队,现在全面负责酒庄种植和酿造。  

Chief winemaker Maxence Dulou,live in Yunnan and work with the team since 2012,now is in charge of all the viticultural and winemaking work.

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您对中国其他葡萄酒产区有何评价?

我去过山东,这两年还曾去过两次宁夏,在那里喝到过一些非常不错的红葡萄酒,并感受到品质较之以往有很大提升。他们也各自存在着一些问题,山东夏季降雨多,太潮湿,葡萄很难达到理想的成熟度,会有一些生青的味道,发展有机种植难度会很高。宁夏日照充足,糖分成熟度比较好,但是单宁成熟度和酸度上会有一些欠缺,且冬天太冷,葡萄藤需要埋土,不过整体水准上已经很出色了。 

What do you think of other wine regions in China?

I’ve been to Shandon, and Ningxia twice in the past two years, where I had many quality red wines and do feel its big improvement. Nonetheless each of them has their own problems. In Shandong, there is too much rain, the weather is so wet that the grapes cannot achieve desired maturity, but with some green flavor. It would be difficult to develop organic there. While Ningxia is always sunny, the grapes are able to accumulate enough sugar in the harvest season,but lack acidity,and their tannins cannot ripe enough. It is very cold in the winter, so grapes need to be buried to keep warm. But overall it seems fairly comforting.

您觉得气候原因造成酒体的不足之处,可以用哪些技术来弥补呢?

对所有的产区来说都是一样,如果真的有天灾来临,那酿酒师也并没有太多办法,只能坚强以对。云南这边的气候,六月到八月变化比较大,但每一年从九月中旬到十月末的收获季总是阳光充足且十分干燥,葡萄能达到良好的成熟度。

这样的气候适合施行有机管理,所以我们采取有机种植方式,尽量减少人为干预,让葡萄自己逐渐适应并培养出应对恶劣自然气候的能力。因为采用有机管理,葡萄园管理中主要用到波尔多液和牦牛粪。

我们目前在当地还只有三年的种植经验,四年的酿酒管理经验,如想要完全掌握产区的微气候变化,需要更多时间和工作。

In your opinion,what technologies can be used to make up for the inadequacy caused by the weather?

It is the same to all the regions that if there is a real dizaster, the winemaker could do nothing but learn to be strong. The weather varies considerably from June to August in Yunnan。But when it comes to the harvest season, generally from mid-September to the end of October, everyday is sunny and dry, and the grapes can achieve satisfying maturity.

This kind of cliamte is suitable for the implementation of organic management, so that’s what we do there: use Bordeaux mixture and yak manure only in the vineyard; try to minimize human intervention as possible as we can so that the grapes can gradually adapt themselves to the environment and be able to cope up with all the harsh weathers.

Currently we have only three years cultivation experience and four years operation experience there. We need much more time to master all the micro-climate changes discipline in the production area.

你们的葡萄园位于海拔高度两千多米的地方,夏天光照应该会非常强,你们会有特别的葡萄园管理技术(架型、修剪等)

我们采用VSP架型,在整个葡萄的生长季节都会保留叶子,在转色期间会将朝向东面的叶子剪掉一些,朝向西面的叶子则由于下午光照太强烈,为避免伤害葡萄而保留。 但每一年的气候都不一样,还是要根据实际天气采取具体的疏叶措施。比如今年六月多云,就不用剪那么多,也减少了我们的园内工作量。当然,和法国不同,厚云层虽然会有一些阻挡阳光的作用,但对葡萄成长并不会产生显著影响——因为我们海拔太高了,云层有时在我们头顶只有100米左右(有时甚至还会在我们下方),总有阳光能穿透云层洒进葡萄园,所以葡萄还是能达到非常好的成熟度。

Your vineyard is 2000m high above sea level, thus sunlight would be very strong in the summer. Do you have any special vineyard management techniques (framing, pruning, etc.)?

We use VSP model, which keeps the leaves all through the growing season and cuts some in the veraison period. The leaves facing southwest will always be kept to protect grapes from strong sunlight. The climate varies every year, so pruning work must be done depending on conditions. For example, this June is cloudy, which means we don’t need to cut too much. Unlike France, thick clouds will weaken the sunlight but will not block it,nor have any impact on the growth of the grapes. It is because we are in such a high altitude. The clouds are sometimes only 100 meters above our heads(and sometimes even below us). Sunlight can always find a way to penetrate the clouds into the vineyard to ripen the grapes.

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关于酒庄未来发展,有何计划?

技术层面来说会进行不同方向上的尝试,比如种植更多葡萄品种、比如葡萄园内一些修剪、植草工作的调整以及尝试使用中国的陶罐进行发酵等等。

What are the plans for the future development of the winery?
We’ll make new technical attempts such as cultivate more grape varieties, improve the pruning and grass planting work, use Chinese pottery in the fermentation and so on.

听说2013年份敖云葡萄酒就使用了您刚才提到的这种陶罐效果如何呢?

我们首先有大约40天的浸皮(包括酒精发酵)。随后要进行二次发酵(苹果酸乳酸发酵)时,我们40%的酒会使用法国新橡木桶,剩余部分按照常规,会使用旧橡木桶,但从法国引进的话,因为交通不便等原因并不可行,若从中国临近产区采购旧橡木桶,由于所使用的酵母不同,而且会有可能的不良细菌携带,会对酒造成污染,所以找一种比较中性的,不会为酒添加任何风味但也没有坏影响的陶罐做代替,是个很好的选择。从现在看结果还是令人满意的。这些陶罐是全新的,是当地用来盛装中国白酒的陶土罐。

It is said the Chinese pottery you just mentioned have been used in making 2013 vintage of Aoyun Wine. Does it work well?

We had 40 days maceration(including fermentation), and then moved into second fermentation ( malo-lactic fermentation). 40% new french oak is used at this stage. The rest used old barrels as we normally do. But it is impossible for us to bring in barrels from France due to the inconvenient transportation. Nor could we purchase any old ones from nearby production areas, as different yeast may carry bad bacteria and cause contamination. Thus we chose to use a nuetral container, which could not add any floavor to the wine but will not add any bad effect either. The pottery was by far a satisfying choice. They are brand new,and use to hold local spirits.

敖云是否会进行人工灌溉?

加州和澳大利亚会使用滴灌,葡萄需要多少水,就给它多少水,葡萄的根系在50公分左右,但这样会造成地表土壤过硬。敖云没有采用滴管,敖云的葡萄根系可以扎到很深,长达3米左右,这样就能从地下吸取更多水分。所以在生长季节可以完全依赖自然降水来补足水分,不需要人为灌溉。在干燥的冬天有时会进行小范围的漫灌,既达到灌溉效果,又能避免大范围的土壤板结问题。

Does Auyun use manual irrigation?

In California and Australia,the grape roots are bout 50cm long, people use drip irrigation, which means, you give grapes the exact amount what it needs. But drip irrigation will make the surface soil too hard. While in Ao Yun, the grape roots are up to 3 meters, so they can absorb more water from soil and need no irrigation. Natural rainfall is enough for them. In dry winter, we do small range of flood irrigation from time to time. In this way, we can both offer waters to the vine and avoid soil hardening.

哦?能达到3米的根系,敖云不完全是用年轻藤吗?你们是怎样控制葡萄出产品质的?(陆江)

我们把五、六年的葡萄藤叫做年轻的葡萄藤。但是酿这瓶酒的葡萄已经十五年的藤龄了,在我们买下这里之前,已经有当地的农民在这里种下了葡萄。前两年我们做了很多研究,并在去年(2015年)种下了一些葡萄,这些葡萄苗还需要一些时间才能正常出产。但是我们面前的这瓶酒,是用根系深达3米的十五年藤上长出的葡萄酿的。我们现有的葡萄园里,有一半面积都是十五年以上的葡萄藤。(葡萄酒在线)

过去农民是采收葡萄后按重量卖给当地酒庄,你可想而知,他们唯一重视的就是产量。我们来了以后,通过翻译,指导村民进行耕种工作。对葡萄产量和品质进行完全控制。之前老葡萄藤是没有经过砧木嫁接的,我们新种下的葡萄则有做嫁接,一是为了更适应当地土壤,提高葡萄品质;二是为了预防根瘤蚜虫。虽然目前还没有虫害出现,但如果出现,后果不可想象。目前酒庄还处于探索期,我们分析土壤成分、结构、土质……,并选择最适合的砧木。另外如果嫁接后品质确实有明显提升,我们将会对老藤部分进行重新替换种植。

3 meters’ roots? I thought Ao yun had only young vines? How do you control the quality of the grapes? (By Lu Jiang)

We call five or six years old vines young vines. But vines used to make this bottle are already 15 years old. There are many local farmers who planted grapes in this area far before we purchase the estate. At the first two years, we did a lot of research and finally planted some grapes in the last year (2015). These baby vines need time to produce qualified grapes for wine. However, the wine in front of us is made by grapes from 15 years old vine with 3 meters’ roots. 15 years old vine took half of the area of our current vineyard.

In the past, farmers sell grapes to the winery by weight. So you can imagine, the only thing they care about is yields. After we came, we tell the villagers how to work through an interpreter, stay in complete control of quality and rationalize ourselves. We did a lot work here, for example we introduced rootstock grafting. Fisrt, this can improve grape quality. Second, it can prevent Phylloxera——no signs of it now, but once it occurs,it would be a disaster. We analyze the composition and structure of the soil and chose the most suitable rootstock. If the rootstocks do improve the quality, we’ll replant all the old vines.

所以你们其实从很久之前就已经研究这里的葡萄园

是的,虽然我们2015年开始种植葡萄。但其实自2012年我们就已开始与政府进行沟通工作,2008年就在开始研究这片土地了,至今已8年。

So actually you have studied the vineyards since long ago?
Yes,we started to plant grapes in 2015,but begun to communicate with local government since 2012,and have been studying the field since 2008,8 years ago.

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目前葡萄园中都栽种了哪些品种呢?

主要是赤霞珠、品丽珠、梅乐、小维多,和少量试验中的品种。此外也有计划尝试栽种更多品种,比如西拉和马尔贝克,具体还未确定。

我(陆江)追问一句:“葡萄苗和宁夏的夏桐(LVMH在华另一酒庄)一样,也是从中粮集团的葡萄苗木基地采购?”。 “是的!”。

Currently how many varieties are planted in the vineyards?
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Petit Verdot and some tested verities. Besides that, we planned to try Shira and Malbec, but stays undecided.

Does Domaine Chandon Ningxia purchase from COFCO Corporation Grape Seedling Base too?( By Lu Jiang)

yes!

在敖云进入市场之前,你们都做了那些考量?

在发行上市之前,我们首先反复确认酒的品质达到了我们理想的状态,表现稳定,也送给许多国际重量级的酒评人品尝。他们回馈确认这是他们喝过具有独特个性和辨识度的赤霞珠,也是中国最好的葡萄酒。至此我们才决定将它推向市场。

How do you determine the time for Aoyun to come into the market officailly?
Its quality has been repeatedly confirmed that it can meet our strict requirements. Its performance is always stable. It is widely praised by all the international heavyweights in wine industry whom we sent the wine to. They all recognize it as a unique and great Cab, and the best wine in China. At this point, we thought we are ready to bring it to the market.

从您的角度来说说敖云的特点。

对于赤霞珠的全新演绎,酒色深邃,兼具新鲜水果和成熟水果的香气特质。当地的风土气候赋予它新鲜感和活跃酸度。很多人第一次闻到果香的时候会想到波尔多的波亚克,相似的雪茄、烟草和雪松。但也有人觉得像是来自加州,果味充沛,酒体饱满。对于我来说,它介于它们二者之间,单宁传达出我所期待的结构感和优雅度。总之,我们想要的不是一款迎合市场的,强壮有力的酒,而是一款复杂精致,能够忠实传达风土,代表这神圣山区的酒。

Could you describe Aoyun from your point of view?

It’s the new interpretation of Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep color, with both fresh fruit and ripe fruit characteristics. Freshness and lively acidity is from the unique terroir. Many people would think of Pauillac the first time they smell it,with similar aroma like cigar, tabacco and cedar. While someone find it more like California wines, very fruity, delicious, full-bodied. For me it’s somewhere in between. The tannin is as elegant and structured as I expected. In a word, we don’t want to cater to a growing demand fo strong wines, but a sophisticated and graceful wine, the wine that can represent the sacred mountain and its terroir.

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敖云葡萄酒品鉴词(陆江):

敖云AOYUN 2013

黑色成熟水果的果味充沛,还有紫罗兰和西方香料味道,透出一丝烟熏和黑巧克力气息;重酒体,酸度活跃,果味主导,单宁强且有明显收敛感,但质地成熟很细致,口中整体平衡,有不错的集中度和长度,后段收尾能感到微微的酒精感,余味长,有烟叶,香料气息。15度的酒精,Ph值是3.55。

口中感觉还是新世界酒,不过的确是细致风格。平心而论,品质不错。至于价格是否合适,无论是LVMH的解释:“成本极高,超过了白马和滴金。”,还是一些评论人士:“价格已经赶上白马,Opus one等,太不合理”,还是看市场表现吧。

Tasting (By LU JIANG)

Intense with ripe black fruit flavors, violets and western spices, revealing a trace of smoke and dark chocolate. Full-bodied and crisp, fruity-forward, with strong and converged tannins and delicate texture. Balanced, in the last part you can feel it slight alcoholic. Tobacco and spices can be found in the long finish, Alc.=15%, Ph=3.55

You can still tell that it’s from new world, but indeed elegant. I must say it’s good. As for the price, you can listen to either LVMH ( because of the high cost, more than Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau D’yquem) or some critics(almost as expensive as Chateau Cheval Blanc and Opus one, so unreasonable), or just keep quiet, wait and see how it will behave in the market.

采访撰稿人陆江(Maxime LU):

– 曾任Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛(Decanter Asia Wine Awards),意大利南部葡萄酒大赛(Puglia)、葡萄牙葡萄酒挑战大赛-Wines of Portugal Challenge(Lisboa)等国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委;

-《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》创始人和专栏撰稿人;

– Decanter中文版, Prowein中文版等主流业内网站和媒体专栏专题撰稿人;

– 资深葡萄酒收藏顾问;葡萄酒行业咨询顾问。

 

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