2012年份:一个珍稀的勃艮第年份

BIVB发来邮件向各国记者通报2012年勃艮第采收状况,2012一个珍惜的年份。还是很真诚实际的写出了当年的天气状况和面临的挑战。

 

春寒带早霜,坐果millerandage的情况屡见不鲜,造成今年多小果粒葡萄。热浪和冰雹共存的夏季有非常大的不稳定性,有时过高的温度也让少部分果粒受损,白粉病和霜霉病也是今年葡萄园的常客。不过收获的葡萄大多健康,蕴含精华的小果粒也会成就不错的集中度。最终的官方报出酒庄总体有20%的减产,在夜丘的确是这个范围,博纳丘因为多受冰雹的侵袭,减产幅度较大。不过具体的数字会在明年1月报出。

 

手中2010年份的报价个别酒庄涨幅挺大,不知跟2012的小产量是否有关。自大好年份2009过后,2010年起始,勃艮第的酒庄一直在减产,10-20%不等。于此同时国人对勃艮第葡萄酒的热情却渐渐升温,价格的涨幅肯定会是日后勃艮第葡萄酒的热点问题。名庄酒在勃艮第无疑是质量的保证,名庄,名田,知名酿酒师,质量的三重保证让人打消疑虑。不过如果价格持续升温,因为供需的不对等,个别名庄酒的价格过分脱离群众,也许会让很多勃艮第爱好者会开始勃艮第按田索酒,追寻风土,寻找高性价比小酒庄的旅程。产区直供是否会成为盈利模式,现在还不得而知,不过至少对酒友来说这是个无上的福祉吧!

 

Official press release

2012: a rare and precious vintage in Bourgogne

Beaune, 12 November 2012

 

A first! That is what Bourgogne’s winegrowers are saying about this year’s weather. Given Mother Nature’s whims, they had to redouble their efforts to ensure the very best results from their vines. And the first tastings confirm that all their hard work was worthwhile. From the north of Bourgogne to the south, the industry is unanimous – the quality of this year’s nascent wines is excellent, surpassing all expectations given the weather.

The only downside is the quantity which is below average, down as much as 20% according to some estimates. (Definitive figures will be available in early 2013).

A mild winter, a chilly spring with frosts, a warm May, a cool and rainy June, an unstable summer, a heat wave, hail and storms – weather like this could not fail but affect the vines. The cold and rain in spring caused shatter, where some flowers fail to turn into fruit; millerandage where incomplete fertilization of the flower giving rise to small berries; and a big threat from both downy and powdery mildew. The brief hot periods in summer brought some very high temperatures that burned the fruit.

These phenomena, which occurred before the grapes ripened, meant yields were significantly lower this year, but had no impact on the quality of the grapes. On the contrary, aerated bunches of smaller berries guarantee concentration and intensity.

Having had to manage the elements and struggle on a daily basis, both man and materials have emerged from this vintage worn out, yet victorious. During the harvest, which took place under sunny skies, the grapes being welcomed into the wineries were healthy and showed no signs of disease or rot.

The scarcity of the 2012 vintage will only serve to make the wines even more precious!

White wines

These expressive wines reveal notes of fresh fruits and citrus. Forthright, they are already demonstration very good balance on the tongue.

The whites from northern Bourgogne are powerful, and translate the unique characteristics of their terroir: minerality with notes of flint and chalk.

This is a classic vintage, illustrated by the wines’ sophistication and good concentration.

Red wines

The wines are deep red in color, dense, and some are almost black.

They release rich and intense aromas of red berries. The tannins are ripe and silky, offering a lovely harmony on the tongue.

The 2012 vintage looks like a safe bet. The red wines reflect the diversity of each winegrowing region and offer a happy ending to this unusual year.

Crémant de Bourgogne

The low yields also concern the grapes for Crémant de Bourgogne wines, and the Gamay grape in particular. The Aligoté turned out to be more generous. Overall, production volumes could be down as much as 30%.

The grapes harvested were perfectly mature, combining the richness of optimum sugar content with good acidity. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir base wines are fruity,  with lovely balance.

陆江美国产区行之加州篇4-历史悠久的纳帕酒庄<贝灵哲酒园-Beringer Vineyards>

陆江美国产区行之加州篇4
历史悠久的纳帕酒庄<贝灵哲酒园-Beringer Vineyards>


撰稿人/陆江(Maxime LU) /2012-06 

作为纳帕谷最早的还在继续运营的酒庄之一,贝灵哲酒园(Beringer Vineyards)已有130多年的历史。在2001年,贝灵哲酒园入列受美国政府保护的《国家历史遗迹》(National Register of Historic Places)。

追溯历史,贝灵哲酒园的创始人之一Federick Beringer当年被美国的发展机会所吸引, 于是1863年第一次来到纽约。五年后,他的兄弟Jacob也来到纽约,但是很快发现自己,还是喜欢以前在德国的家族酒庄工作的生活。Jacob听到加州葡萄酒产业正在起步的消息,他毅然决定西行来到了加州纳帕谷。这次Federick也决定跟随Jacob,于是1876年,他们一起在纳帕建立了贝灵哲兄弟酒庄。此后酒庄的历史也伴随着纳帕谷葡萄酒行业的崛起、起伏和发展。

我们到达酒庄后,酒庄安排接待的是负责客服的Dean Busquaert。

虽然气温不高,可下午两点的直晒阳光,还是有些难挡。Dean带着我们在室外快速参观,路过一栋二层简约风格的老式建筑,介绍道:“这就是建于1848年的Jacob Beringer的故居Hudson House,现在是酒庄的美食烹饪艺术中心。”

看着Hudson House铁栅栏门前的路标提示,沿路向前就是我们要去的酒庄接待和品酒中心,也是酒庄的另一栋著名历史建筑Rhine House。 Rhine House始建于1883年,是Federick Beringer的故居,整个建筑是由著名的建筑师Albert Schroepfer仿照Beringer家族当年在德国莱茵河畔的房子设计的。直至今日,建筑中复杂的木雕制品,石制品和新艺术(Art Nouveau)风格的彩绘玻璃依旧保存完好。

 

 

本以为接下来仅是循例数款酒品鉴,可没想到,Dean除让我们品酒外,还为我们准备了一个有趣的酒食搭配的品鉴尝试。

首先摆好了5款Beringer酒园的酒,我逐一品鉴记录,Dean也时不时看我用不同语言记录的酒评词。

也许Dean看到我酒评词里的法语单词“Cassis”(黑醋栗),有感而发说到:“你会法语,所以写cassis,但美国人不知道cassis。有些人经常看杂志《Wine Spectator》,我看他们品鉴赤霞珠时常写有Cassis, 但我能感觉到这个人其实没有真正闻到这个香气,而是背出来的。因为在美国并没有Cassis这个词。”

听了这番话后,我笑了笑着说:“的确有背词的伪爱好者,不过我们也是尽量鼓励人们用自己感受到的真正气息来表达,尽量用本地常见的气息,除非是为了更广泛的国际交流。”

Dean他还分享说,“有一次,一位年轻女士品尝了这里的一款白葡萄酒后,说闻起来想芭比娃娃的头发。我不认为是种赞美,因为芭比娃娃的头发像是塑料味,但是我很感激她,因为她很坦诚。”

当聊到赤霞珠与食物搭配时,Dean他想用简化的方法搭配赤霞珠,并认为这与肉类等食材没关联,而更多取决于品尝食物和酒的时候,口中的五种味觉:酸、甜、苦、咸、鲜。他还特别提到这是从纳帕谷的一位葡萄酒大师(MW)那里学到的。纳帕谷一共有七位这样的葡萄酒大师。

根据Dean的观点,赤霞珠与三种味道的搭配:咸、甜、酸,其中有两种味道与赤霞珠搭配起来很好, 另外一种搭配起来效果很差。为此他特意准备了甜度较高的苹果,柠檬,盐,还有Brie奶酪和Aged Gouda奶酪,

我们用赤霞珠搭配的结果:

-苹果: 甜,效果最差,甜味与单宁搭配质地变粗糙;

-柠檬: 酸,效果不错,反而有圆润口感;

-盐:咸,搭配效果不错,平衡适中;

-Brie奶酪: 本身含糖量高,含酸和咸较少,口感圆润,与赤霞珠搭配,粗重失衡,失望。事实来看,反倒适合搭配低单宁酒。

-Aged Gouda奶酪: 陈年一年,含糖少,含酸偏咸,配高单宁赤霞珠,圆润平滑,很棒。

说实话,这个结果蛮意外,原本我不看好的柠檬,居然表现是最佳。根据这个结果,在酒食搭配上,有些固有的判断理论,甚至某些权威资料的观点,在实践中很有可能不完全准确。最好的办法就是多实践多比较。

Beringer St. Helena Home Vineyard 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
紫罗兰色,李子,樱桃,香草,甘草;重酒体,单宁中等力度,酸度中强,平衡,口中有黑李子味,余味中长,有烟熏气息。

Beringer Rancho Del Oso Vineyard 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
暗紫红,黑加仑,李子干,山楂,花瓣,重酒体,单宁细腻,中强力度,有结构感,细致,酸度强劲,平衡活跃,优雅;回味中长,有些红李子,咖啡豆味道。

Beringer Steinhauer Ranch Vineyard 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
暗紫红,湿羊毛,李子,甘草,黑樱桃,果味充沛,重酒体,单宁如天鹅绒般质地,有力,酸度中强,回味长,有咖啡豆,烟熏,李子的气息。

Beringer Vinyards Private Reserve 2006 ,Cabernet Sauvignon
透亮紫红色,黑莓,黑加仑,雪茄盒,黑巧,湿灌木,烟熏,甘草,其中黑色水果味是主导;重酒体,饱满凝缩,单宁细腻,收敛极有力,酸度强劲活跃,有上佳平衡,庞大结构,果味与橡木味和谐搭配,回味长,庞大不失灵巧,颇具潜力。

Beringer Nightingale 2007,67% 赛美容Semillon 33% 长相思Sauvignon Blanc
贵腐甜白酒,金黄色,杏干,糖水菠萝;重酒体,饱满,一定集中度,口中有枣,无花果干,焦糖味道,酸度中强,平衡圆润,回味长。