Exclusive: Protecting the Champagne name in China

               By Maxime Lu / 陆江

Published on DecanterChina.COM, Chinese version of Decanter.

4 February 2016

With Bordeaux gaining its protected geographic indication (GI) status in 2015, it is believed that the Chinese market, which has grown over 30% in wine import volume and value in 2015, is making progress in protecting the names of the most illustrious wine regions in the world.

Champagne, however, received its GI protection in China two years earlier. Being one of the first French wine regional bodies to set up an office in China, the CIVC shares its experiences in defending the name ‘Champagne’ in the country and promoting the concept among both trade and consumers.


Image: Wang Wei, representative of the Comité Champagne (CIVC) in China

What the GI does

A geographic indication (GI) is a ‘clearly defined, specific place of origin,’ explained Wang Wei, representative of the Comité Champagne’s China office.

‘The unique local geographic environment brings particular characteristics to its product, therefore only this area is granted the right to use a specific name. The concept came from Europe but is now used globally,’ she added.

Champagne gained its GI status in the early 20th century. It is one of the first wine producing regions to receive such recognition, introduced CIVC.

For an immature market like China, a GI is a helpful guide for consumers as it ‘suggests the style and features of the region, and provides some guarantee to the quality’, said Wang Wei.

‘When seeing the name “Champagne”, you will know that the wine has bubbles, and was made by fermenting in the bottle; also it suggests that the wine was made under strict regulations in grape selection, production and winemaking,’ said Wang Wei.

How to protect a European GI in China

Fresh import figures shows that in 2015, the total value of imported sparkling wines in China was 6m USD, down by 27% compared to 2014.

‘China has never been a major market for Champagne,’ confessed the China representative for the trade body, which set up its office in the country in 2006.

‘However, the Champanions decided that works need to be done to clean up the market environment and set up protections, before a market can really start to blossom for them.’

‘The Chinese market used to be flooded with “big champagnes”, “little champagnes”, “pink champagnes”—anyone could use the name. If we had allowed them spamming the market, consumers could never find out what real champagnes taste like. That’s bad news for any brand to develop naturally and positively in China.’

Among the French wine regions which hold a GI status, Champagne was the pioneer to set up an office in China. Through great efforts and spending a long time, the region was finally granted legal protection by the Chinese authorities in 2013, following Napa (2012).

‘Since then, we were able to take legal actions against the knock-offs,’ she explained.


Image: Champagne vineyards © Decanter

For importers of regular sparkling wines who misused the Chinese name for Champagne ‘香槟’ on their labels, the CIVC China office would firstly ‘file a polite letter of notification, stating that this is an act of infringement, and demand them to stop using Champagne on the label. ’

‘Some of them would reply politely, saying that they were indeed unaware of the regulations, and were willing to make corrections,’ said Wang Wei, who considers this ‘a process you have to go through to gain understanding in the trade’. By doing this, ‘we hope to push for the trade to regulate itself,’ she added.

As for the cheap, low-quality knock-offs made by small local wineries, the trade body usually resort to the help of the local government, who can conduct investigations, confiscate the fakes, and urge offenders to stop the production.

Sometimes a fine is imposed. ‘Though the fine won’t be a lot, but it’s more like a statement: the term Champagne can’t be used lightly, and that the Champagne region is very serious about protecting its rights in China,’ said Wang Wei.

‘We are generally content about the progress we made in protecting the Champagne brand in the Chinese market at the moment.’

Promote the concept of geographic indication

Having said that, although the Chinese consumers are more and more conscious about protecting their rights and seeking for heathier and safer products, the geographic indication is still a concept ‘yet to be known by all’ in China, Wang Wei told DecanterChina.com.

‘Different local law enforcement departments don’t always understand the necessity of GI protection in the same way,’ said Wang Wei. ‘Sometimes we have to spend a very long time to explain and provide plenty of evidence, so as to help the local officials to understand what we’re asking for.’

In order to better communicate the concept of Champagne and the EU geographic protection system, ‘in 2015, we used every opportunity, including various government and trade seminars, to promote the idea of GI protection,’ said Wang Wei.


Image: Louis Roederer vineyards and horses, Champagne © Decanter

Educating consumers about Champagne is also an important part of the work, said Wang Wei.

‘There are many ways to spot a fake Champagne, such as via the certificate of origin or information on the wine label. But the consumers need some basic wine knowledge to do that.’

‘Everything we do today is for protecting the value of the ‘Champagne’ brand. The higher the value is the more efficient protection it needs.’

GI protection on China’s domestic products

As one of the pioneers in GI protection in China, the CIVC said that it’s happy to pass on the experiences to China’s domestic products.

‘China has many quality agricultural products that are made in a specific region and hold unique characteristics,’ Wang Wei told DecanterChina.com that due to lack of protection, many of these product or region names tend to be misused in the market. ‘Once the consumers get confused, the credibility of the name will be lost.’

In order to make the GI protection to take effect and bring actual profit to the local people, ‘the authorities need to pay enough attention to it. We will need a more comprehensive legal protection system, and train the law enforcers about the importance of intellectually property rights,’ suggested Wang Wei.

‘Properly reinforced GI protection will directly benefit both producers and consumers. It is also in line with the country’s strategy of sustainable development,’ she concluded.

Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦

Source: https://www.decanterchina.com/en/knowledge/people/region-authorities/exclusive-protecting-the-champagne-name-in-china

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France Wine Tourism Guide II: Champagne 法国葡萄酒旅游指南(二)——香槟 II

France Wine Tourism Guide II: Champagne

法国葡萄酒旅游指南(二)——香槟 II

陈微然 Weiran CHEN 


住在兰斯对于只把葡萄酒旅游当做行程一部分的朋友,为25为法国国王加冕的兰斯大教堂,著名的玻璃工坊,兰斯著名的粉红饼干Maison Fossier和一条布满精品餐厅的步行街Place d’Erlon都是在兰斯值得去的地方。







许多香槟大厂的总部都设在兰斯,比如Lanson, Veuve Cliquot, G.H Mumm, Taittinger, Pommery等等。他们距离市中心都比较远,最近的当属靠近火车站的Veuve CliquotLanson了,但是这两间香槟酒庄都需要提前预约。

如果有车,推荐大家去Champagne Pommery, 5 place du Général Gouraud看看,这家香槟厂从1878年对公众开放以来,每年吸引着13万游客前往参观。位于地下20米的酒窖一共30公里长,由于酒窖的一大部分原来是采石场,所以十分的宽敞。酒庄每年会邀请不同的现代设计师在酒窖当中展示他们的作品,所以30公里的酒窖之旅绝不会寂寞。导览的工作人员都非常的热情,在大约40分钟的酒窖之旅当中,会将香槟产区和酒庄的历史娓娓道来。夏天参观大家一定记得多添一件衣服。参观加上品酒的费用大约25欧左右,走的时候还可以提“一打”200ml的小香槟回家。每只小香槟的“时装外衣”都由著名设计师亲自操刀,排在酒庄的商店里琳琅满目。游客还可以参观旁边的Villa Demoisselle,这是当时酒庄庄主为女儿建造的住所,只可惜他的女儿仅仅享受了一年便去世了。Villa Demoisselle的建筑风格从视觉上有点洛可可和哥特式的混合,室内的装潢更是十分精致,值得去其中游览一番,体味一下其中的小资情调。

villa demoiselle

chez pommery

出产著名的Comtes de ChampagneChampagne Taittinger也在附近,可以一并前往。最后还可以再酒庄边上的星级餐厅享受一顿饕餮盛宴。



兰斯分别有四家米其林星级餐厅,两家一星分别为Le Foch, Le Millénaire,两家两星餐厅是L’assiette  champenoise, Le Parc les Crayère。后一家就在香槟厂Pommery的旁边,整个餐厅坐落在一间气势恢宏的古堡之中,城堡漂亮的花园里面还有一间小餐厅叫做Le Jardin。想感受星级主厨风格的朋友可以去试试,每道菜价格15-30欧不等,就餐环境特别好,四周都是鸟语花香。

另外一家当地人很推崇的餐厅叫做Café du Palais14, Place Myron Herrick,51100 Reims。这家餐厅从1930年开始便一直是家族式经营,餐厅不大,周一至周五只有午间开放,周六全天开放。餐厅以做香槟地区的特色菜为主,比如Jambon de ReimsLangres奶酪。其实这里更适合作为一个品享下午茶的地点,一杯香槟,一盘粉红饼干,和明媚的阳光。在兰斯城里乏了小憩一番的绝佳地点。




Le clos des Terres Soudée

25 Rue Saint Vincent 51390 Virgny

这是一家离兰斯10公里的酒店,隶属于Champagne Roger Coulon。酒店的装潢非常有情调,而且每个房间都是以香槟产区,香槟酒为主题,很漂亮。酒庄还提供各式各样的品酒活动,和小型的“品酒工坊”。在这里你可以系统的了解香槟的酿造工艺,如果在采收的时期来,你还可以亲自下田去采收葡萄,甚至亲自给香槟除渣!除渣后的香槟会贴上你自己设计的个性酒标,拿回家珍藏,唯一不太方便的是酒店里暂时还不能提供正餐,村里也没有餐厅,不过因为离兰斯只有10公里的路程,所以可以在酒庄参加完活动去兰斯吃饭,顺便看看兰斯的夜景。



Côte des Bar 是香槟产区最南端的子产区,离购物圣地Troyes只有四十分钟的车程。如果选择在Troyes购物并且留宿, 顺道去Côte des Bar了解香槟最好不过了。



Champagne Veuve Devaux

Hameau de Villeneuve
10110 Bar-sur-Seine (France)

在寡妇Devaux精妙的商业操作之下, 早在19世纪末这间酒庄就实现了几乎50%产量的出口。Devaux家族的最后一位继承人因为没有子嗣,所以在1987年时这间酒庄卖给了Aube大区的酿酒合作社。

酒庄里面专门设置了一个关于香槟地区葡萄酒知识的展示区域,配上图片和讲解,清晰明了。直至六人的品酒都是免费,香槟的价格23-50欧不等。 同时还值得一试的是他家的Rosé de Riceys,这是一种当地用黑皮诺酿制的桃红葡萄酒,不带气泡。Riceys这个村庄是香槟地区唯一可以使用三种AOC的产区,包括:Champagne, 产黑皮诺红葡萄酒的Coteaux Champenois AOC, 以及桃红葡萄酒AOC Rosé de Riceys 


champagne deveaux


champagne deveaux1

Champagne Drappier 

Rue des Vignes

Drappier是一间家庭式经营的香槟酒庄,也是法国戴高乐总统最喜欢的香槟酒。他拥有最古老的,由西多会修士Saint Bernard建造的酒窖。酒庄在中世纪在Clairveaux教会的带领下一直有出产。酒庄如今由Michel Drappier经营,每天来访的客人让酒庄里甚至有点熙熙攘攘。


酒庄还出产一款叫做Quattuor的香槟,他由香槟产区少见的葡萄品种Arbane , Petit Meslier ,Blanc Vrai和Chardonnay酿制而成。带着古老品种的香气,也许你能在其中体会到中世纪教会香槟的美。

drappier 1


drappier 2

France Wine Tourism Guide II: Champagne 法国葡萄酒旅游指南(二)——香槟 I

France Wine Tourism Guide II: Champagne


陈微然 Weiran CHEN 



香槟产区距巴黎150公里,住在巴黎的爱酒人只需开车一个半小时,便能听到香槟杯中上升的气泡谱写出的序曲。香槟一共分为四个主要的种植区,Montagne de Reims, Valleé de Marnes, Côte de Blancs, Côte de Bar。主要以Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay酿制,根据土壤的不同分布在各个产区之中。兰斯的东南方是Montagne de Reims, Marnes河流的两侧属于Valleé de Marnes,以出产Pinot Meunier为主, Épernay向南是Côte de Blancs, 顾名思义全部出产Chardonnay白葡萄品冲,最南端的Côte des Bar则全部是Pinot Noir的天下。




在Épernay香槟大道上,几乎每家香槟酒庄都对外开放。可以坐小火车环游酒窖的Champage Mercier, 大手笔的Moët Chandon,可以在精致洋房当中享受一杯香槟的Michel Gonet都是不错的选择。

 michel gonet 1   michel gonet 2


Champange René Geoffroy, 4 Rue Jeanson

这家是香槟产区不做苹果酸乳酸发酵的代表,并且在酿制中以黑皮诺和皮诺默尼埃Pinot Meunier两种红葡萄品种为主导的酒庄。他家的香槟风格非常突显,不做苹乳发酵的香槟酸度很高,但是酒庄最终将香槟仍做的比较圆润。以红葡萄品种主导的香槟香气更加的开放,比较容易让人亲近。


Champagne Giraud, 71 Boulevard Charles de Gaulle




Parvus Domis

27 avenue de Champagne 51200 Epernay





 parvus domus


Bistrot le 7 (Les Berceaux)

7, Rue des Berceaux, 51200 Epernay

这是在法国难得的一间一周七天开门,菜品质量还相当好的餐厅(很多法国7天开门的餐厅面对游客,菜可是相当的难吃)。这是米其林星级大厨Patrick MichelonÉpernay的餐厅旁边的美食坊。我在Épernay的一周当中,连续吃了两次这家餐厅。一定要试试他家做的新式“三文鱼春卷”,把熏三文鱼卷成卷,里面填入加过香料的三文鱼塔塔,旁边还配两只新鲜的烤大虾。另外,这家羊排做的也恰到好处,调味完美的掩盖了羊肉的膻味。这家的价格大约在每道菜10-20欧左右,需要注意的是,香槟地区的餐厅菜品分量特别足,像这道羊排就有三块羊排和一只Merguez香肠,食量小的朋友千万记得只点一道菜。





陆江(Maxime LU)/WineBlogChina.COM



 法国香槟协会秘书长Jean-Luc Barbier、中国国家质检总局科技司司长裴晓颖、法国香槟协会中国代表王蔚、法国驻华使馆农业参赞李嘉霖等分别在发布会现场发言。其中还特别谈到中法两国在地理标志GI保护方面的合作和成果。香槟是中国国内酒类相关的第四个通过的被保护地理标示,前面3个分别是【干邑-Cognac】【苏格兰威士忌】【纳帕河谷(葡萄酒)〔Napa Valley(Wines)〕】。








“香槟-Champagne”获得中国地理标志保护庆祝酒会上,中法双方致辞并品饮香槟。著名的巴黎之花香槟(Perrier Jouet)、Devaux、Lanson等为来宾们提供了高水准的香槟产品。全场最值得推荐的是巴黎之花Perrier Jouet的Belle Epoque 2004,细腻复杂。