2011.07.09万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列79,相逢伊甘(D’yquem)之甜蜜四重奏

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

期待了将近了两个月的甜酒品鉴,终于如期举行。会员们的热情加之几款实力甜白陪伴我们度过了一个真正“甜蜜”的午后。

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Chateau D’yquem 1996

老金黄色,香气清新而浓郁,杏干,蜂蜡,糯米纸和少许青木瓜的味道接踵而来。丰满的酒体,有力的酸度支撑,相当深邃凝缩,一如既往地优雅迷人,口中熟橘的味道甜美馥郁。余韵中依旧有些许苦柚的味道,辅以蜂蜡的特殊气息,令人回味。

Northern Ice Vidal Ice Wine Niegara Peninsula 2005

像古金器一般的老金黄色,黄桃,芒果,苹果汁和少许杏干和奶糖的味道,尽管香气有些简单,但香甜醉人。酒体丰满,入口非常清新,口中充斥着蜂蜜的气息,酸度很不错,后段略有凸现,有些剥离。也许是在伊甘之后品饮的缘故,余韵感觉有些短促。

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中间一只失足掉落的小虫,是谁说的“葡萄酒中死,做鬼也风流”?

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Rotta Winery, Black Monukka, Paso Robles, NV

淡琥珀色,让人捉摸不透的复杂气味,伴随核桃,坚果的味道而来的,有些焦糖和雪莉的味道,整体的感觉有点像威士忌和白兰地的混合气味。入口十分惊艳,有种晒过日光浴后的全身暖洋洋的舒爽。中重酒体,入口轻柔顺滑。甘草,焦糖还有浓郁的罗汉果,枣汤的味道在口中持久停留。虽说有19%的酒精含量,但是在口中完全没有酒精的灼热感,余韵绵长。

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记得去年在酒庄的时候,庄主很严肃的告诉我说这里葡萄的生长环境很恶劣,葡萄园有不错的微气候和土壤。由于砾石和石灰石的含量比较多,所以葡萄几乎都是扎根于石头上生长。再看看庄主的照片,多么朴实的农民,却酿造出多么惊艳的好酒!

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记得去年去这家酒庄的时候,庄主兴奋又略带着些炫耀的对我说,他们几乎是世界上唯一一家用Black Monukka(右图)酿酒的酒庄。多少带着点怀疑,上了UC Davis的网站查询这种葡萄的资料,发现这个原产印度,由英国人带入加州的葡萄品种的确非常少见。一般是用来食用,少有用作酿酒的。不过整个活动下来,大家都觉得这款用无味高度酒中智发酵,入桶陈年2年并同时在阳光下直晒,最终通过Solera System做调配的葡萄酒大加赞叹。说不定Black Monukka也会成为喜欢猎奇的加州酒厂们的新宠儿呢!

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目音频

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目(首席葡萄酒顾问陆江)

Wineonline Wine School  –  Wineonline Wine Club

音频点击: CRI-Wineonline wine club

(China Now!)Wine-tasting classes popular in Beijing 

Anchor:

How much knowledge do you know about wine? Can you tell the difference between wines from different places? Do you know your manners when drinking wine in various social situations? More and more Chinese people, especially white collars, are taking wine training classes not only for better networking but also to enjoy the rich culture of wine.

Du Lijun has more.

Reporter:

(Ambience: Teacher’s talking and students’ discussion)

This is a wine training class of Wine Online Culture, a company that conducts wine-tasting courses and promotes wine culture in Beijing. After learning the typical characters of wines produced from Spain and America, the teacher asks students to sip some of them and then to describe the different tastes.

Xu Xinrui, who is attending the training class for the first time, is very interested in wine. She said two years ago she knew nothing about the wine, but now knowledge of wine means a lot to her.

[SB1, Xu, in Chinese]

“I am working for a magazine specializing in alcoholic drinks. Due to this, I need to learn as much as I can about them, and I’ve found out wine is getting more and more popular among Chinese people. It’s a social fashion. I need to know wine in a professional way. I feel good in the class.”

Xu says at the beginning she just wanted to increase her knowledge about wine. After trying the wine in some small sips, she fell in love with it.

Unlike European countries, China historically didn’t have a wine-drinking tradition. Wine is a comparatively new thing in China.

Lu Jiang, chief wine advisor of Wine Online Culture Company, says the original idea of organizing wine training classes was to help those who are in need of wine knowledge. Most of his clients are hotels’ service staffers or people who want to become a wine taster.

But now things have changed; many ordinary people come to his class. They believe wine can help them become more sociable. At the same time, they also want to discover the real charm of wine.

[SB, Lu, in Chinese]
“Wine itself has a rich culture. During our two-day class you can only scratch the surface. What I would like to do is to introduce wine culture to each one of my students. I open the door for them to discover the wine. I myself think wine has its own charming taste. In social situations, wine is a symbol of being elegant and graceful. That is also the reason which explains why wine has become increasingly trendy in China, especially among the middle class.”

Zhao Hang became the fan of wine in 2006. He says since the very beginning he knew he made a very smart choice.

[SB3, Zhao, in Chinese]

“I love it. Five years ago I just graduated from the college to start my first job. And I thought I needed some new interests in my life. I found wine. I chose it because I thought wine contained a lot of Western culture. Through wine I can learn about Western countries. Now I am proud of my wine knowledge – its benefits for my social connection is just one side. What is more important is that I’ve discovered the true spirit of wine.”

(Ambience of drinking wine)

The latest figures show that the volume of wine consumed in China doubled from 2005 and 2009. And during this period, some amateurs become professional.

Chen Weiran, who is now an assistant of Lu Jiang, says wine has brought her a totally new life.

[SB4, Chen, in Chinese]

“I fell in love wine at the first taste. I like all kinds of wine. Sometimes only seeing wine without drinking it will make me happy. I enjoy the tastes of different wines and the culture of them. Wine has become an integral part in my life. Before becoming an assistant I was working in the IT field. Now instead of facing all those boring charts and diagrams, tasting the different flavors of wine has helped me rediscover the beauty of life.”

For whatever reason people start to drink wine, many of them are becoming interested in it and eventually are discovering the glamour of wine.

For CRI, I’m Du Lijun.

桃乐丝领略世界品酒会Torres Taste of Nation(下)

接下来就是众望所归的Vega-Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva 1999

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第一杯喝到的是醒酒器里面的酒底,动物腺体的味道非常浓郁,因为在醒酒器里面放的时间比较长,果香遗失的比较多。周边很多人说这酒臭臭的悻悻然走开了。

我比较厚脸皮,看侍酒的小哥又开始把一瓶已经开瓶的Vega Sicilia倒入醒酒器中,四目相对的时候冲他笑了笑,于是尝到了新醒的这一杯。

宝石红色带橘色边缘,回头看看的确是1999年,这个颜色还真不多见。 浓郁的丁香花,黑色浆果的气息裹挟着肉条,香料和薄荷的味道扑鼻而来。酸度非常好,力度足够却不尖锐凸现,单宁柔和坚挺,收敛感强。非常平衡的一款,喝下去很舒服,悠长的余韵。

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接下来是罗斯柴尔德家族的单双小丑和小木桐。几乎所有人都是冲着小木桐去的在加上侍酒的波尔多人总是先问要不要直接从最好的开始,我尝单双小丑的功夫,眼看着装木桐的醒酒器就见底了。

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Chateau D’Armailhac 2004

宝石红色,黑樱桃,小红莓的味道以及少许动物的气息悠悠地飘散出来。中等酒体,口感干净清爽,单宁强壮有力,还有些粗糙,收敛感非常强。酸度在坚挺单宁的打压下不太明显,但也有中高的水准。

Chateau Clerc Milon 2006

中度宝石红色,红色浆果和少许动物的气息,口感比D’armailhac更加柔顺温和,中等酒体,酸度中等不突兀,单宁收敛感很强,余韵适中。相对柔和的Pauillac。

Le Petit Mouton de Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2007

具有鲜明特色的一款酒,香料和胡椒的味道足够强劲,甜美的黑樱桃醋栗紧随其后,香气十分具有表现力。三款酒试下来到最后这款口感和平衡感可谓是有 明显的飞跃。口感非常柔顺,单宁细致而有力,丰满的酒体,酸度与单宁酒体相互平衡,余韵悠长。很舒服的一款酒。

Almaviva 2008

顺带着试了智利第一大酒厂Concha y Toro与波尔多一级酒庄Chateau Mouton Rothschild 于1997年精心合作下的佳酿——活灵魂,这款流淌着“法国血液“的智利酒被放在一个小角落,没什么人发觉。

新世界的热情奔放在这款酒中体现得淋漓尽致,烟熏,奶酪,甘草和果酱的味道扑鼻而来。丰满的酒体,酸度中等,入口顺滑可人,十分平衡。余韵淡而雅致,十分长远。年轻的拉美小伙!

接下来是澳洲和美国的大酒,意大利一直没有敢碰放到最后,整场酒会下来发现这绝对是个明智的选择。

Henschke Mount Edelstone, Eden Valley,2006

这款酒放在波尔多后面试饮是个失策。忽略了寒凉的Eden Valley,以为会是老套的澳洲大酒,结果发现这分明是个优雅细致,恬静如水的小家碧玉啊。

甜美的各类浆果的气息,烟熏和摩卡的味道,轻挪着步子摇曳而来,柔和顺口。在奔放的智利葡萄酒后面,尝一款如此优雅的Shiraz真是挺不习惯。

Rubicon Estate CASK Cabernet, Rutherford, NAPA Valley,2005

浓郁的醋栗,香草味道,酒体丰满,单宁坚挺略粗,酸度中等,口中香气饱满依旧,余韵绵长。

Rubicon Estate Rubicon,Rutherford, NAPA Valley 2007

热情果伴随着黑色浆果的香气洋洋洒洒倾泻而出,入口十分平衡,单宁柔顺,酸度适中,余韵中长,有些中药味的回苦。

最后来到了意大利军团,几近尾声,强大的单宁和超高的酸度让牙齿很难受。

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Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2005

这一款只在优质年份才出产的Barolo实力不容小觑,橡皮糖,玫瑰和柏油,甘草和玫瑰的气息浓郁而宜人。酒体饱满丰腴,酸度很高但并不尖锐,单宁坚挺有力,块状发力充满口中。雄浑的大酒。

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Tenuta Sette Ponti Orma 2006

山楂,樱桃和丁香花的味道,单宁粗重有力,酒体中高,酸度中等不凸现。

Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno 2006

2008年Wine Spectator百大第15位,相同的年份。白胡椒,甘草,柏油的香气显著,酒体强劲,单宁殷实而柔和,酸度非常好。相信陈年之后,整个葡萄酒的平衡会更好,当前太过强硬,让人不好靠近。

离意大利站台不远处找到了漏掉的M. Chapoutier的一款教皇新堡和与葡萄牙大厂合作的混酿。

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M.Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-pape, Barbe Rac Rouge 2006

100% Grenache

相当叛逆的教皇新堡100%歌海娜。小红莓和红樱桃的香气精致优雅,入口如丝绸般顺滑,口中香气很纯净。中等酒体,单宁柔和,酸度很平衡。尾韵悠远宜人。

Domaine Bento & M. Chapoutier Ex Aequeo Rouge 2006

75% Syrah 25% Touriga Nacional

很奇特的混酿,Touriga Nacional带来的馥郁花香和Syrah带来的香料,胡椒气息构成了一种神秘的异域香气。酒体中等,酸度中高,单宁力度不是很强,余韵中有些烟熏和橡木的味道,回味中等。

最后的时光留给甜酒,一款passito甜红和Noble One的收尾,缓解了之前强单宁高酸的不适。

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Elena Walch Cashmere Moscato Rosa Passito 2007

非常浓郁的水果糖的气息,红糖和各种甜美水果的味道让口中香气馥郁充足,偏弱的单宁,酸度中等,柔和圆润的口感,悠长的尾韵当中夹带些梨子的味道。

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De Bortoli Noble One, Riverina, New South Wales,2006

带着金色的光晕,这款贵腐甜白散发着浓郁的果脯,杏干和蜂蜜的味道。圆润丰满的酒体,非常浓缩。酸甜平衡感很不错,余韵中香气充沛回味绵长。

2011.06.19万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列78,多样布根地-传奇干白产区

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

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炎炎夏日,四款勃艮第的实力干白唤醒了沉睡的味蕾。我们用一下午的时间体会着来自欧洲大陆的法式优雅。

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Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2008

浅黄绿色,香气优雅含蓄,槐花,柑桔,海水,矿物和酵母的味道接二连三的展现,复杂而有层次。中重酒体,酸度清新透彻,后段发力贯穿始终,似是要冲破层层阻碍喷涌而出。美好的酸度啊,让人感觉有内而外的清爽。口中充满了矿物质的气息持续至尾韵,回味悠长。

最爱的传统Chablis实力当如是!

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Roux Pere & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes 2007

浅金色,燧石,谷物,煮熟的梨子,烘烤和坚果的味道,发展到后来又增添了百香果和西柚的味道。中等酒体,酸度开始很锋利,而后温和许多,保持爽脆,余韵当中香气宜人令人回味。

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Christophe CORDIER Pouilly Fuisse Veilles Vignes 2009

明亮的金黄色,香气浓郁,整个品酒过程当中发展很快。从一开始的蜂蜜,蜂蜡占主导的香气,发展至带有些香料和樟脑丸的气息,直至后来又增添了焦糖,李子和奶油的味道。丰满的酒体,香料的味道在口中仍然很明显。酸度中高但不够贯穿,余韵中能感觉到烘烤和矿物

的气息。回热在温度升高之后有些明显。

这就是最后“捣乱”的Chardonnay了。贺兰山美域Chardonnay 2008。尽管有几位同学猜到是来自中国的作品,但在陆老师“暧昧”的误导下,也纷纷倒戈到澳大利亚,新西兰的实力产区。

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稻草黄色,桃子,梨还有很多热带水果的味道,少许鹅果和橘子的气息,很新世界。入口微甜,酸度中低不贯穿,余韵也属中等。总的来说比较中庸可以随便喝喝的酒,作为一款性价比很高的国产酒,再加上最近由于屡屡获奖而如日中天的名气,值得推荐!

Touched by the Elegance of Burgundy

Sylvia Chen

Ever feel sick of the heating sunlight?

Ever feel like waking up your sleepy taste buds?

Look at these magic words, Chablis, Chassagne Montrachet, Pouilly Fuisse,

Already mouthwatering?

Let’s GO FOR IT!!

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Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2008

Robert Parker gave a rating of 92 out of 100, from one of the best Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir

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Lemon green flecked with green tints. Medium flavor intensity, not expressive yet a fairly delicate and polish classic Chablis. citrus, grapefruit, white flower combined with Mineral, yeast and the taste of the sea. Great and sustainable acidity seemingly be able to cut through all the fatness. Medium to full body, lots of mineral on the palate. Pretty long finish tinged with flint and lively acidity.

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Roux Pere & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes 2007

Light gold. Evolving nose started with flint, cereal, then change into pear and some toasty, nutty flavor. Later on with a hint o passionfruit and grape fruit. Medium body with piercing acidity, concentrated flavor on the palate. Ended with a tasty, mouthwatering mineral aftertaste.

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Christophe CORDIER Pouilly Fuisse Veilles Vignes 2009

Bright gold. Expressive flavor on the nose, wax and honey was the first to go then strangely some spice and camphor. Hint of caramel and pear. Full body, distinctive spice notes on the palate. Medium plus acidity yet not being able to last till finish. Aftertaste tinged with  toast and mineral.

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Helan Mountain special reserve 2008

A rising star among Chinese winery, just got the Decanter World wine award. Great cost performance!

We used it for blind tasting after the Burgundian. Most members believe it was either from Aussi or Kiwi land!

Light straw. Expressive tropical fruit, peach and pear, gooseberry and orange notes. Touched with sweet tone after swallow it. Medium acidity not lively. Medium aftertaste. Pretty easy drinking, a suitable wine for dinner or for pleasure!