五月最佳性价比品酒会-葡道澳洲顶级酒品鉴

图文 / 陆江     编辑 / 王智慧

提到本月(2015年5月)北京品酒会的性价比,我相信北京葡道(Pudao Wines)举办的这场面向公众爱好者的澳大利亚顶级葡萄酒品酒会,完全有资格荣膺最佳。

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这场品酒会的酒款阵容豪华,都是来自于最新版-第六版澳洲最著名的精品酒(Fine Wine)排行榜-兰顿等级榜(简称兰顿榜)的最高级Exceptional的入列酒。作为澳洲零售业巨头WLG(Woolworth’s Lioquor Group)在华的全资分支酒类零售机构-葡道的这次手笔不小。6款酒每套酒(每种一瓶)的价格就在1万5千左右,而实收不到200元的品鉴费,是绝对的超值。当然葡道是有推广市场的因素,不过对于消费者来说是实打实的福利。

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这次超值活动还吸引到不少北京业内的不同酒商和葡萄酒教育机构的专业人士自费来参加。葡道总经理Marcus也专程从上海过来站台支持。

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每一款都是来自于不同的生产商,都是颇具声誉的澳洲重量级精品酒:

Grosset Polish hill Riesling是公认的白葡萄品种雷司令顶级生产商,以往试过数回,很喜欢他家风格,纯净又不失复杂度和集中度;

Giaconda Estate vineyard Chardonnay公认的澳洲白葡萄品种夏多内超一流作品,这一领域强手如林,我是第一次品鉴,竟有几分勃艮第夏多内顶级生产商Cochy dury的风格和实力;

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon,西澳赫赫有名的精品酒生产商,赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)做得精致,又有很强陈年实力;

Penfolds(奔富)707也是澳洲顶级赤霞珠的代表之一,在中国知名度最高的澳洲顶级精品酒之一;

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh shiraz是饱满强劲型澳洲顶级西拉子的代表作品之一。Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah是饱满不失优雅的澳洲顶级西拉子的代表,具备举重若轻的超一流实力。

 

详细酒款表现可参见后附的酒评记录(记录者:独立酒评人,国际国内葡萄酒大赛评委陆江)。现场还有专程来访的兰顿榜的创立者,国际著名葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW,他主持品鉴讲解现场的澳洲顶级酒和一些理念的分享。

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Andrew Caillard MW / 陆江摄影

Andrew Caillard MW虽然是英国人,但却是公认的澳大利亚葡萄酒权威,而且他对中国葡萄酒产区也相当熟悉——他曾走访中国10年之久,拍摄了一部与特定时期中国葡萄酒市场,消费理念,中国国产酒相关的获奖纪录片“红色痴迷(Red Obsession)”。

前几天我在澳洲走访维多利亚州产区时,看到一些名庄的酒屋(Cellar Door)里摆着“兰顿(Langton)的等级表”, 后来和当地葡萄酒工作者交流时知道,在澳洲精品酒市场,尤其拍卖和收藏领域,兰顿榜有着主导的影响力。

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陆江酒评词:

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2014
青柠,柑橘,白桃,油脂,中等酒体,酸度强劲贯穿,果味充沛,有一定集中度,口中有矿物感,有层次感,细腻,回味长。

Giaconda estate vineyard Chardonnay 2011
香气充沛,烤坚果,橘子,热带水果,香草,复杂,精致;中重酒体,酸度强,酒体和酸度整合不错,很平衡,集中,富有层次,香气丰富,回味长。实力强劲,有国际一线的勃艮第顶级夏朵内(Chardonnay)生产商Cochy Dury的风格。

Moss wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑莓,香料,黑醋栗,雪茄盒,精致气息,中重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁细致中强,平衡,回味长。

Penfolds(奔富) 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑醋栗,香草,雪茄盒,香料,咖啡豆,细致均衡的香气,重酒体,单宁强细致耐嚼,酸度中强,平衡,回味长,咖啡豆。

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh 2008 Shiraz
太妃糖,咖啡豆,香料,奶油,还有明显桉树叶气息,重酒体,单宁中强,质地厚实,酸度中强,饱满庞大,回味长。

Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah  2006
皮革,动物,黑巧克力,果酱,雪茄盒,甜香料,奶油,咖啡豆,复杂,重酒体,饱满庞大,单宁强但优雅细致,均衡分布,层次丰富,回味长。

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An Overview on New Zealand Winemaking Industry and the Chinese Wine Market

Photo & Text :Maxime LU

Source: ProWine China

In February, I was invited to visit most major wine regions in New Zealand. During the visit, I visited some chateaus with different styles and attended Regional Wines Tastings, which presented a complete picture of the southern-most wine producing country in the world. New Zealand wines feature consistent quality and reasonable price. They are lively, pure and full-bodied. They have clean aromas and distinctive characters. In particular, they boast of rich diversity, which is openly criticized by a lot of Chinese wine enthusiasts.

New Zealand stretches roughly 1,600 km from the North Island (36° S) to Central Otago (47° S), the world’s southern-most wine region. The country has a maritime climate, with all vineyards lying less than 130 km to the coast. Plenty of sunshine in the daytime and cool sea breeze at night result in big temperature difference in many wine regions, offering ideal production conditions for the growth of wine grapes. Being a coastal country, New Zealand rarely has extreme weather conditions. In addition, due to frequent crustal activities (numerous earthquakes and volcanoes), the change of river channels and human factors, New Zealand has complicated ground features and landforms, diverse soil constitutions as well as extremely different microclimates in different parcels. All these terroirs guarantee the diversity of local wines.

Another aspect worth noting is that grape planting in New Zealand originated in 1819, while the country’s winemaking industry hadn’t taken off until forty years ago, not being fettered by traditions. Rapid promotion of new technologies and constant innovation have been witnesses ever since. Meanwhile, local terroirs have been explored. Thanks to these efforts, the grape planting and winemaking techniques of the country’s winemaking industry have reached the world’s top level. The research on the microclimates and parcels in grape planting regions has reached a high level. As a result, the features of different parcels can be fully utilized. For instance, Pinot Noir grown in Wairarapa, Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury/Waipara Valley and Central Otago all have unique regional characteristics.

In terms of area, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are New Zealand’s leading varieties. In addition, there are quite a few aromatic varieties, such as Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Many winemaking practitioners are from other countries, where different grape varieties are planted. They are seeking for ideal vineyards to plant new varieties, such as Sangiovese, Malbec, Tempranilo, Albarino and Gruner Veltliner. New grape varieties with outstanding characteristics are planted. The diversification of grape varieties will be a trend of the country’s winemaking industry.

According to data of 2014, the overall plantings in New Zealand is 35,510 ha (1% higher than 2013), less than one-third of that of Bordeaux. The country produced 320 million liters of wine in that year, accounting for only 1% of the world’s total. New Zealand’s winemaking industry is small in scale. However, the unit price of wine ranks high among all wine producing countries. Therefore, the country pursues the strategy of offering wine with top quality. In New Zealand, 95% of chateaus are members of Sustainable Wine Growing New Zealand (SWNZ), and some of them even meet the standards of carbon neutrality.

New Zealand’s forward-looking winemaking industry strives to promote government legislation in a bid to enhance IPR protection and crack down on counterfeiting and infringement on local varietals. In April 2015, New Zealand Ministry of Economic Development and New Zealand Winegrowers jointly declared to establish the Geographical Indications (GI) system to protect the country’s internationally famed winemaking regions and varietals. It’s expected that the system will be established by the end of this year.

New Zealand winemaking industry entered the Chinese market in 2007. At that time, French wines dominated China’s imported wine market. In 2008, China and New Zealand signed the Free Trade Agreement, a turning point for the promotion of New Zealand wines in China. Soon, China rose to New Zealand’s biggest trading partner. According to the FTA between the two countries, zero tariffs will be imposed on New Zealand wines exported to China as from January 1, 2012, further cementing the confidence of New Zealand winemaking industry.

In market expansion, New Zealand winemaking industry is also pragmatic and ambitious. The growth rate of export value of wines is the highest of the country’s exported goods. In the end of 2014, wine ranked No.6 in the country’s exports.

With a small winemaking industry, New Zealand pursues the path of providing the finest varietal wines. Based on research and analysis on the Chinese wine market with huge potential, the country has worked out pragmatic and forward-looking promotional plans. Several years ago, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and New Zealand Winegrowers jointly introduced the highly efficient Wine High Impact Programme. Under the programme, influential wine experts from New Zealand participated in various campaigns in the Chinese wine market to build the country’s image as a leading winemaker.

Selected measures in recent years:
– Launching a dedicated Chinese website to promote New Zealand wines;
– Organizing New Zealand wine trade fairs regularly, with workshops, symposiums and food & wine matching dinners;
– Organizing delegations to participate in the most influential local wine trade fairs, such as Prowine China;
– Organizing key opinion leaders (KOL) and experts in China’s winemaking industry for study tours in New Zealand’s winemaking regions, and establishing KIWI CLUB for networking to enable more consumers to gain a knowledge of New Zealand wines;
– Carrying out traditional and social media-based marketing campaigns, for instance, interacting with consumers and publishing information via Weibo (microblog) and WeChat;
– Offering educational programs for New Zealand winemaking practitioners, for instance, holding workshops in the country to help local wineries to gain a better understanding of the Chinese market, so as to work out effective development strategies and expansion plans.

Meanwhile, New Zealand winemaking industry often launches training programs on local wines. For instance, in April, top wine masters from the country offered New Zealand wine certification programs for professionals. In addition to tier-1 cities, such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, training and certification systems are expected to cover tier-2 and tier 3 cities leading wine consumption.

Thanks to consistent efforts of New Zealand winemaking industry, the country’s wine exports to China rose from 268,000 liters (RMB 12.5 million in value) in 2007 to 1,920,000 liters (RMB 131 million in value) in 2014. In 2014, China became New Zealand’s sixth biggest destinations of wine exports, ranking after Australia, the U.S., the UK, Canada and the Netherlands.

Since the second half of 2012, the Chinese wine market has witnessed continued depression due to policy changes. In particular, the year 2014 is regarded as the most sluggish period. China’s total wine imports decreased by 5.7% compared with that of 2013. Nevertheless, wines imported from New Zealand rose by 34% in value and 11% in quantity during the same period. New Zealand wines have further expanded the share in China’s imported wine market. New Zealand winemaking industry has seen more potential in the Chinese market.

New Zealand winemaking industry has much confidence and expectations on the Chinese market. New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and New Zealand Winegrowers have jointly defined the goal towards the Chinese market in the next 5 years: The country’s wine exports to China will reach NZ$150 million by 2020. We are keen to see whether the goal will be realized.

– LU Jiang ( Maxime LU )

新西兰葡萄酒与中国市场概述

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

本文已发布于ProWine China网站专栏,转载请标明出处。

  今年二月,我应邀走访了新西兰大部分葡萄酒主力产区,探访了各地的一些不同风格的名庄,还分别在不同产区集中品鉴了当地众多酒庄的产品(Regional Wines Tasting),让我对这个世界上最南端的产区国的实力有了更全面的认知。新西兰葡萄酒稳定的品质,合理的价格,干净的果味,活跃纯净浓郁,个性鲜明,尤其是在备受不少国内葡萄酒爱好者诟病的多样性方面,其实也都表现不弱。

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新西兰从北岛 (南纬36°)一直延伸1600公里到世界上最南的葡萄酒产区中奥塔哥(南纬47°)。海洋性气候是主导,所有的葡萄园与海岸的距离不会超过130公里。白天的充分日照,夜间的凉爽海风造就了不少产区较大的温差,使酿酒葡萄成熟有了上佳的生长条件,受海洋影响,也没有特别极致的天气状况。另外,新西兰属于地壳活动频繁地带(地震火山很多),再加上河道的变迁以及人类的影响,导致有着复杂的地物地貌结构,和丰富多样的土壤构成,再配合各地块极为不同的微气候。这为新西兰葡萄酒的多样性提供了风土条件(Terroirs)的保证。

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还有重要一点,新西兰葡萄种植起于1819年,但葡萄酒行业真正大力发展其实也是最近三四十年,没有传统束缚,新技术快速普及,创新不断,随着对当地风土条件的探索和磨合,新西兰葡萄酒行业的种植酿酒技术达到国际一线水准,对种植区的微气候和细分地块的研究也达到较高水准,使不同地块的特点能很好发挥出来。例如黑皮诺在怀拉拉帕(Wairarapa)、尼尔森(Nelson)、马尔堡(Marlborough)、坎特伯雷(Canterbury)/怀帕拉谷(Waipara Valley)、中奥塔哥(Central Otago)等产区都有各自区域特色。

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另外,虽然从种植面积来说现在新西兰主要代表品种是长相思和黑皮诺,此外还有不少夏朵内,芳香系品种,西拉,梅洛和赤霞珠调配等。由于不少葡萄酒从业者来自不同国家,这些国家的传统葡萄品种不同,有不少人除前面提到的常规品种外,在寻求种植,如Sangiovese,Malbec,Tempranilo,Albarino,Gruner Veltliner等更多品种,找寻最合适他们的葡萄园,随着新品种的表现卓越,葡萄品种的多样性也将会是新西兰葡萄酒发展的一个趋势。

2014年的数据,新西兰葡萄种植总面积35,510 公顷(比2013年上升1%),不到波尔多种植面积的三分之一,产量3.2亿升,仅占全球的百分之一。葡萄酒产业规模小,不过平均单价位于各产区国前茅,主要走优质精品酒路线。新西兰95%的葡萄酒庄是新西兰葡萄酒可持续发展计划(SWNZ)的参与成员,部分已经达到了碳中性标准水平。

新西兰葡萄酒行业比较前瞻性地推动政府立法保护行业的相关知识产权,以便对可能针对新西兰葡萄酒相关的假冒侵权行为实施打击。今年4月,新西兰经济发展部和新西兰葡萄酒种植协会联合宣布,建立地理标示(GI)制度,保护新西兰国际知名的葡萄酒产区和产品,预计到今年年底能完成相关进程。

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从2007年开始,新西兰正式涉足中国市场推广。当时中国进口葡萄酒市场完全是法国葡萄酒绝对主导。不过新西兰葡萄酒在中国的发展关键点,是2008年中新两国签署了自由贸易协定,中国很快成为新西兰最大的贸易伙伴。在2008年签订的中国-新西兰自由贸易协定(FTA)中,确定从2012年1月1日起,对新西兰葡萄酒实施零关税。这一举措大力推动新西兰葡萄酒行业的信心。

在市场开拓方面新西兰葡萄酒行业也务实进取,使葡萄酒成为新西兰出口产品中增长最快的产品。2014年底,葡萄酒已成为新西兰第六大出口产品。

针对像中国这样具有巨大潜力的葡萄酒市场,新西兰作为葡萄酒产业规模小,走精品化道路的产区国,经过对中国市场研究和自身资源的分析,选择了相当务实,且又具有远见的推广计划。新西兰几年前推出了事半功倍的葡萄酒高度影响力计划,该计划由新西兰贸易发展局和新西兰葡萄种植与葡萄酒酿造协会联合推出。通过具有影响力的本地葡萄酒专业人士的参与,在中国葡萄酒市场,为新西兰打造高质量葡萄酒产区国的形象。

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近几年的主要实施举措:

– 推出新西兰葡萄酒中文网站;

– 周期举办新西兰葡萄酒展,同期举办专题研讨会、餐酒搭配主题晚宴;

– 组团参加本区域内最有影响力的酒展,如Prowine China等;

– 安排中国葡萄酒行业的意见领袖(KOL)和专家去新西兰葡萄酒产区走访考察,并成立KIWI CLUB维系好这些人脉资源。通过他们让更多消费者了解新西兰葡萄酒。

– 开展传统和社交媒体市场推广活动,如在微博和微信上开通互动和信息发布账号;

– 提供针对新西兰葡萄酒从业者的教育项目,包括通过在新西兰本地举办研讨会让新西兰葡萄酒公司更好地了解中国市场,从而制定出有效的发展战略和开拓计划。

新西兰葡萄酒还推出新西兰葡萄酒培训课程,像4月份刚完成的,由新西兰顶级葡萄酒大师讲授的,针对葡萄酒专业人士的新西兰葡萄酒认证课程。并且除了北上广等一线城市外,还会在不久的未来打造完整的培训认证体系,从而覆盖更广的二三线重要葡萄酒消费城市。

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经过数年的努力,新西兰葡萄酒出口到中国的数量有明显涨幅,从2007年的二十六万八千升增长到2014年的一百九十二万升。按货值计算,出口额从2007年的人民币一千二百五十万跃增至2014年的人民币一亿三千一百万。2014年,中国成为新西兰在海外的第六大葡萄酒出口目的国,排在前面的有澳大利亚,美国,英国,加拿大和荷兰。

尽管中国市场从2012年下半年开始,因为政策变化,整个市场步入低迷。尤其去年2014年,被认为最低谷的时期,中国进口葡萄酒总量与2013年相比下滑了百分之五点七,但是从新西兰进口的葡萄酒在同期,以货值计算却上升了百分之三十四,以数量计算上升了百分之十一。这再度巩固了新西兰在中国进口葡萄酒市场的份额。也让新西兰葡萄酒行业更加看好中国市场的潜力。

对于中国市场,新西兰葡萄酒行业抱有很大的信心和期望值。新西兰贸易发展局和新西兰葡萄种植与葡萄酒酿造协会制定了未来5年内在华的市场目标:2020年实现1亿5千万新西兰元的葡萄酒出口额。我们将拭目以待。

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欢迎微信搜索【葡萄酒在线】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,资深葡萄酒和烈酒收藏顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师

王智慧(Serien WANG)

– 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者,《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监,万欧兰葡萄酒教育葡萄酒讲师

宁夏贺兰山东麓葡萄酒产区峰会有感

陆江(Maxime LU)

 

下午,成都糖酒会期间,我作为媒体,参加了宁夏贺兰山东麓产区发展高峰论坛。

会议中的官员演讲,多方对话,营销砖家的观点表达……有欣喜,也有不少吐槽!不过总体还是蛮积极。

   21895_6080014   【主持人陈伟鸿,农大马会勤教授,产区联合会主席郝林海,Pascal Poussevin】

 

  通过宁夏产区政府官员的发言,能了解到他们对葡萄酒产业的认知已经有了一定深度,而且是真心实意想推动葡萄酒产业发展。虽然宁夏有相对不错的风土资源,可真正产业发展的最大动力是政府的引导倾斜。当然当地配套和招商承诺的落实还有问题,不过已经足够让宁夏贺兰山东麓成为中国现在最有国际知名度的产区(HL就悲催多了)。资源和资本也汇聚不少。

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很重要一点,已经有部分酒庄认识到,要长远发展,不是单靠急功近利的品牌砸钱推广打造,其实【品质是葡萄酒品牌打造的基石】,所以能看到宁夏的一些酒庄定价越来越靠谱。

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而且绝大部分酒庄产量规模一般都不会很大,是不适合走传统的白酒大品牌打造路线。这一点不少宁夏的葡萄酒产业的从业者,甚至一些颇有知名度的所谓营销专家,还想当然地搬用白酒思路在脱离葡萄酒特有市场规律特点,实施推荐所谓的大品牌战略。

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所以结合中国市场和葡萄酒产品特有属性,来进行品牌战略制定才是所谓正道。还是再强调一下,品质是基石,鹿跃没有足够品质在巴黎品评里冒头,也不会有后期的高端酒品牌打造机会。越来越多消费者选择高性价比的进口酒,而放弃了张裕等强势品牌的酒,从这几年大牌份额下挫也是明证,不要轻易低估消费者的智商和逐渐开拓的眼界。

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欢迎搜索【wineclos】或【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】,关注我们的微信公众号,这里有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问。