跟陆江老师看香港国际美酒展2015(下)

由香港贸易发展局主办的第八届香港国际美酒展,已于11月7日在香港会议展览中心圆满结束,此次酒展汇聚了来自32个国家及地区逾1,060家参展商参展,欢迎大家跟随我们的陆江老师,吃吃喝喝走完下半段:

图文:陆江 | 葡萄酒在线

品酒经历版图一直有待补充,今天品了墨西哥Baja California半岛葡萄酒产区(约占墨西哥90%的产量)的酒。有赤霞珠,nebbiolo,petite syrah,zinfandel和多品种调配,还有chardonnay+chenin blanc+pinot noir起泡酒(传统法),水准比我预想的要好。还品了据称有伟哥功能的Gin酒……

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阿根廷展位有不少代表作,包括这次Decanter Asia大赛的金奖,区域大奖和国际大奖。展位面积仅次于法国意大利的西班牙也是强势出击,近年在中国市场的表现突飞猛进也是积极参展的助力。此外除澳洲葡萄酒局组团的澳洲展区外,还有雅拉谷那边单独的组团。

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法国展团,有法食Sopexa,B+D等领衔的小展区,还有只有一个展位的Castel卡思黛乐,毕总亲自站台。香奈儿旗下的酒庄也有展位。法国展区能够覆盖到不同产区,与它市场地位所匹配。保持强大是第一要务,但不管是谁,都同样面临激烈竞争。

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展会中看到我们绍兴黄酒也有展台呈现,塔牌手工原酒年份酒,正好是前段时间在“美食与美酒”杂志盲品中展露风采的佼佼者。同是米类发酵酒,日本清酒协会近几年大手笔推广,已有不少大中华区的拥趸,这情况也是值得反思。黄酒这项瑰宝的体系和推广方式还是可以学习借鉴邻国的经验……虽然很难。

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展会期间,虽然大陆从业者明显来得少了,不过公众日依然人满为患,以香港及周边地区的爱好者为主。展会也是见见老朋友,叙旧聊天的机会。最后走到师妹陈曦所在的意大利名庄Avignonesi展台(关于这个酒庄的信息可以参看,意大利最大生物动力酒庄爱唯侬堡的革命之路,还认识了一些有趣的业内小同学,交流些市场状况信息和预测,自然也有八卦,相约再聚。香港,明年Vinexpo再见了。

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篇尾福利,照旧为去哪里吃吃吃提供一些tips:口碑颇佳的“华姐清汤腩”,天后地铁出口,汤头鲜香,炖肉高汤调制,牛腩炖得火候不错,软烂不散;粉也是口感筋滑,另外萝卜是个不错的加料选择。只是晚上8点多才有机会免受排队等座之苦。

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在香港吃d到估计是最亲民价米其林一星店《添好运自制中式点心专门店》北角店。之前去三次都是排队人过多只好放弃,这回晚上八点半去,人不少,但直接有位(注:营业到晚九点半)。点到酥皮焗叉烧包,古法糯米鸡,陈皮牛肉球,杞子桂花糕等,出品的确明显精致,尤其喜欢鲜虾烧卖皇,皮薄鲜香且咸淡适中。两人122港币。下回继续来吃,强力推荐!

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米其林指南之香港澳门2016版发布及餐厅列表

葡萄酒在线记者发自香港

2015年11月6日,米其林正式发布第八版《米其林指南 香港 澳門2016》。“八”在中国文化中寓意吉祥,第八版《米其林指南香港澳門2016》同样意义非凡。
葡萄酒在线记者趁在香港同期进行的《香港国际美酒展》之机,为大家最快发布米其林最新香港澳门餐厅入列资讯。
今年新入选的米其林餐厅以本地菜系最为引人注目,入选名单包括新晋成为米其林三星餐厅的唐阁。这家餐厅“主厨推介的粤菜秉承了唐代厨艺传统的神髓,”米其林指南国际总监米高艾利斯先生(Michael Ellis)表示,“唐阁的粤菜手艺登峰造极,不同口感在味蕾上迸发出既强烈又均衡的感官体验。走进唐阁,每分每秒都如置身于中国历代史上的辉煌盛世,如此独一无二的用餐体验,绝对不枉此行。”

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▲ 米高.艾利斯先生(Michael Ellis)与今年最新入选厨师大合影

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▲ 米高.艾利斯先生(Michael Ellis)出席指南发布会

另外两间新晋米其林二星餐厅分别是富临饭店及明阁,两者均以港式粤菜著称。澳门方面,新濠天地的粤菜餐厅誉珑轩及法国餐厅御膳房同样获提升为二星餐厅。

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▲ 米其林指南 香港 澳门 2016精选街头小吃与读者分享

11间新晋米其林一星餐厅的食肆包括香港的中菜餐厅利苑酒家 (观塘) 、北京楼 (中环) ,川菜餐厅呇,法国餐厅ON、Serge et le Phoque,Ta Vie以及澳门的风味居、泓、金阪、庭园和8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo。

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▲ 利苑酒家,花雕蒸阿拉斯加蟹

今年,街头小食店也被首度收录在指南内,其中23间位于香港,12间位于澳门,成为第八版《米其林指南香港澳门2016》的一大亮点。“这是《米其林指南》自出版以来第一次对街头美食店进行系统地评选,”

米高艾利斯先生表示,“《米其林指南》一直以真实还原当地美食特色为宗旨。而街头小食素来是香港人生活的一部分。熙来攘往的香港街头,是座美食不夜城。香港人喜欢外出用餐,但不一定要花大价钱或郑重其事地去大餐厅。街头美食不仅是香港饮食界的一分子,而且在最近几年中,我们的美食侦探越来越发现,这些街头小食店会更多地选用本地时令食材,在注重食物品质之余,务求原汁原味地体现当地美食特色。因此,街头小食店在《米其林指南 香港 澳门》中理应占有非常重要的一席之地。这也是米其林指南让人喜出望外的一次重大突破。”

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▲ 米高.艾利斯先生(Michael Ellis)与今年最新入选的三星餐厅唐阁厨师合影

香港米其林餐厅名单

★★★三星级(6家)
Bo Innovation(厨魔)
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana
志魂 Sushi Shikon
龙景轩 Lung King Heen
唐阁 Tang Court New!!!

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★★二星级(14家)

Amber

Caprice

Pierre

Wagyu Takumi

天空龙吟Tenku Ryu Gin

天龙轩Tin Lung Heen

名人坊Celebrity Cuisine

欣图轩Yan Toh Heen

香宫Shang Palace

都爹利会馆Duddell’s

夏宫Summer Palace

新同乐 (尖沙咀) Sun Tung Lok Chinese Cuisine

明阁Ming Court New!!!

富临饭店 Forum New!!!

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▲ 米其林指南国际总监米高.艾利斯先生(Michael Ellis)与本年度新晋两星餐厅厨师合影

★一星级(41家)

Akrame

CIAK – In The Kitchen

MIC Kitchen

Seasons

Spoon by Alain Ducasse

Sushi Ginza Iwa

Tosca

Tate

Wagyu Kaiseki Den

一乐烧鹅

阿一海景饭店

文华厅

文华扒房+酒吧

六福菜馆

玉蕾

甘牌烧鹅

利苑酒家 (九龙湾)

利苑酒家 (旺角)

利苑酒家 (北角)

利苑酒家 (湾仔)

夜上海 (尖沙咀)

福临门 (湾仔)

富豪 (尖沙咀)

骏景轩

国福楼

何洪记

苏浙汇

冈田和生

彭庆记

胜记

波士厅

添好运 (北角)

添好运 (深水埗)

粤 (北角)

浙江轩

Serge et le Phoque New!!!

ON Dining New!!!

呇 Qi New!!!

旅 Ta Vie New!!!

北京楼 (中环) New!!!

利苑酒家 (观塘) Lei garden Kwun Tong New!!!

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▲ 呇

*香港23家街头小吃店名单

Butchers Club

Joyful Dessert House

Kelly’s Cope Bop

十八座狗仔粉

千色车仔面

迦南泰国小食

祥兴记 (荃湾)

第三代肥仔

合益泰小食

佳佳甜品

奇趣饼家

强记

公和荳品厂

坤记糕品

兰英印度尼西亚小食

利强记

麦记美食

妈咪鸡蛋仔

汤品小栈

叁薯

华园甜品

荣安小食

英记美点小食

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▲ 荣安小食

澳门米其林餐厅名单

★★★三星级(2家)

8餐厅The Eight

天巢法国餐厅Robuchon au Dôme

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▲ 天巢法国餐厅

★★二星级(4家)

京花轩Golden Flower

紫逸轩Zi Yat Heen

誉珑轩Jade Dragon New!!!

御膳房The Tasting Room New!!!

★一星级(10家)

大厨

永利轩

帝皇楼

皇雀

桃花源小厨

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo New!!!

金坂 Shinji New!!!

风味居 New!!!

泓 New!!!

庭园 Terrazza New!!!

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▲ 桃花源小厨

*澳门12家街头小吃店名单

台湾帝钧碳烤胡椒饼

李家菜

安德鲁饼店

昌盛

晃记饼家

新英记

荣记荳腐

义顺鲜奶

韩国鲷鱼烧奶酪雪糕

莫义记

柠檬车露

柠檬王

OK!走起,我们《葡萄酒在线》记者已经走起,按图索骥品美食去。

*关于米其林指南

米其林指南在全球24个国家采用严格一致的评审标准,代表着美食领域的国际标准。指南中介绍的所有餐厅都经过米其林美食侦探的精心挑选。他们匿名走访香港和澳门的街头巷尾,致力搜罗值得推荐的餐厅。这些在当地聘用的美食侦探都接受过严格培训。他们运用米其林美食侦探在世界各地共同履行、由几十年经验得出的工作方法,以确保评审质量的国际性和一贯性。

为保证评审的客观公正,米其林美食侦探们在用餐后像普通客人一样支付账单,而且星级评审只限于碟上的菜肴。为评审一桌菜肴,美食侦探们坚守米其林规定的五大准则:食材的品质、准备食物的技巧和口味的融合、厨师在菜式中所展现的个性与创新、是否物有所值,以及各种菜肴烹调水平的一致性。无论是在日本、美国、中国,亦或是在欧洲,所有米其林美食侦探都遵循这些客观标准。换句话说,无论身处巴黎、纽约,还是香港,星级评定都具有同等价值。

跟陆江老师看香港国际美酒展2015(上)

第八届香港国际美酒展于2015年11月5至7日在香港会议展览中心举行。作为一年一度必须参加的亚洲区的美酒盛会,如果你不知道从哪里逛起,不妨跟着美酒达人陆江老师的足迹走走看看:

图文:陆江(Maxime LU) | 葡萄酒在线

今年的布展又有新设计—— 葡萄牙是今年的主宾国,所以有了熟悉的葡萄牙元素:瓷片图案。这让人喜欢的调调让我回想起游走过的葡萄牙波特城市区。

 

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主宾国气场强大,大师班内容丰富。此外展台中还有不少葡萄牙的名厂,巨头Sogrape也赫然在列。马德拉Madeira生产商:H&H和Justino’s都有到场——不过年份马德拉都没舍得拿出。

 

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Moscatel do Douro生产商也来了,真是让我意外惊喜。这家Adega de Favaios, 位于杜罗河谷Favaios,距离Pinhao10公里。Colheita 1980,茴香甘草香料,蜜枣烟熏气息,集中平衡。性价比很高的酒种。

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Vinitaly International的讲座不少,覆盖不同受众,“Italian wine & Style promotion,a new wine world”。8款不同风格和区域的酒,典型,对了解意大利产区风格来说,还是有点意义,讲座内容很适合初学者。

 

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当然这也能看出意大利葡萄酒行业对中国市场的潜力寄予厚望。意大利东北、西北  、中部、南部等区里最主力产区( Piedmont, Valpolicella,Chianti,Brunello di montalcino,Alto adige,Umbria等) 都有参展。

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和相熟的酒圈朋友交流,都认为内地葡萄酒从业者来港逛展人数有明显减少。可能与紧接着的上海的Prowine China,以及越来越多的国际酒业活动如Decanter等都选择在上海举行有关。看来,尽管有着关税商检等壁垒,国际酒业机构和大腕们仍然都把目光直接投向内地,大中华区葡萄酒烈酒中心移往上海已是趋势。

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中国酒庄也有抢眼亮相。非常赞赏宁夏贺兰山产区努力走出去,在国际舞台展示自己实力,很棒的意识!嗯!不过还是要提一下,宁夏展区主迎宾展台的工作人员实在需要注意形象,你可以不需要高颜值,但精气神还是要有,而且迎宾展台的杂乱实在是很容易从各产区中“脱颖而出”。产区形象塑造就是要在这点滴中积累的。

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香港国际美酒展2015,可以看出各国产区对葡萄酒教育在市场推广中的作用,还是非常看重。贴一些讲师的风采照片,其中不乏活跃在本区内的本地讲师。

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未完待续,下篇预告:跟陆江老师看香港国际美酒展2015(下)

欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,《葡萄酒在线》专栏作者,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问。

 

 

Australian Wines and the Chinese Market

 

Text & Photo by Maxime LU

The decade-long negotiations between China and Australia over the free trade agreement finally concluded in triumphant success on 17 June, 2015. The China-Australia Free Trade Agreement (ChAFTA) was signed in Canberra, Australia by government representatives of the two countries. Later, schedules of tariff reduction commitments for a range of products, including wine in the next five years were released. Under the ChAFTA, the tariff on Australian wine imports will reduce from a base rate of 14% to 11.2% in year one, 8.4% in year two, 5.6% in year three, and 2.8% in year four. The final abolishment of the tariff is expected to come in 2019. Australia has been under tremendous economic pressure in recent years. Its high welfare payments, among other causes, have resulted in heavy fiscal deficit. Meanwhile, Australia is experiencing price drops of its major exports such as iron ore. In light of the situation, the Australian government has been working on promising products in other areas, with wine being one of the key growth points for the Australian economy.

 

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The Australian wine industry dates back to 1788. Since then, the country has grown to be a leading producer in the New World of Wine with comprehensive competitiveness. I have visited major wine regions such as the Western Australia, Southern Australia and Victoria. Though my trips haven’t yet covered New South Wales and Tasmania, Australia’s unique viticulture advantages have already left a deep impression on me. The great diversity and outstanding quality guarantee of Australian wines are a combined result of its geographic location (standalone continent), strict environmental protection measures, the concept of sustainability, its complex terroir, openness of the industry, professional talent training organizations (represented by the University of Adelaide) and its R&D centers for wine technologies. Australia offers a wide range of great wine options for daily or individualized consumption. In the international wine market, the Australian wine has become widely recognized.
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Australia is the world’s fifth largest wine exporter. According to the latest statistics released by Wine Australia, in the 12 months to 30 June, 2015, the value of Australian wine exports rose 5 per cent to A$1.89 billion, and its volume rose 4 per cent to 720 million liters. This is the first time the value of wine exports has increased on a financial year basis since 2006/07. The export volume is also the highest since 2010/11. Australia’s top five export countries take up 72% of the total wine export value, namely the U.S. (down 7.9 per cent to A$415 million), the UK (down 1.5 per cent to A$369 million), Mainland China (up 32.1 per cent to A$280 million), Canada (down 0.7 per cent to A$182 million) and Hong Kong (up 28.4 per cent to A$112 million). The Chinese market has experienced the strongest growth. Australia’s middle range and premium wines (above A$7.50/liter) are doing quite well in China, the number one destination for Australian wine exports. During the same period, Australian wine has remained as the second top seller in China’s import wine market with sales of US$356 million (increase of 59%), which is 1.44 times higher than that of Chile in the third place.
Statistics reveal that Australia cannot afford to ignore the potentials and importance of the Chinese market. To better understand how Australian wine exports are developing in China, we shall take a look at the Figure “Bottled exports to China by price points”, which shows volume developments of bottled exports at two different price points.
In 2005/06, China’s tariffs on imported wine have been substantially reduced. Meanwhile, increasingly active international communications and the rising national income have contributed to a growing demand for imported wines, as more and more Chinese people took a liking to wine drinking on various occasions. In the period from 2005/6 to 2008/9, Australia wine exports to China have steadied its volume at a stable growth rate. However, the total annual volume remained insignificant due to insufficient marketing efforts.
The global financial crisis in 2008/09 has dragged the Australian dollar to Chinese Yuan Renminbi exchange rate down to a low point. Australian wines thus have become quite cost efficient. At the same time, China has entered a boom of growth in the wine market. The government’s 4-trillion infrastructure investment (to counteract the effects of financial crisis) has led to excess of liquidity, which not only vitalized China’s wine market, but also increased the volume of low-end Australian wine imports by China. However, these factors didn’t benefit the middle range and premium Australian wines, as Bordeaux wine was an absolute market dominator in the segment.
The Australian dollar exchange rate rebounded in 2010/2011. Wine dealers were struggling with excessive stock as a result of rushing into the market in the previous period. The market demand for low-end Australian wines slowed down. The Chinese government has adopted tightened economic policies, resulting in a declining premium wine market led by Bordeaux wines.
Starting in 2010/2011, the Australian government started to target more resources to the Chinese wine market. Wine Australia has clearly reinforced its promotional efforts on bringing Australian wines to China. A series of effective promotional measures were introduced, such as inviting Chinese wine specialists, media and kol (key opinion leaders) to Australian wine regions, and implementing A+ Australian Wine School programs in China. Australian wine’s image of quality and diversity started to take root in the Chinese market. The market responded by a remarkable increase of sales for A$5/liter (export price) Australian wines.
In the second half of 2012 to 2013, the Chinese government launched an anti-corruption campaign to curb the “three public expenses” (expenses on vehicles, receptions and overseas trips). These activities sent a great blow to the Chinese wine market that relied heavily on public expenses and institutional consumption. Above A$5/liter Australian wines were also affected by the campaign, whereas low-end segment wines were not. By then, the Chinese wine market began transferring its focus to the segment of individual consumption.
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In light of the latest market development, Wine Australia has mobilized relevant industry players to launch a series of marketing activities. For example, grape harvest tours to Australia were organized. Australia actively participated in the leading ProWine China and many other influential wine trade fairs on the Chinese mainland. Other marketing activities include wine tasting roadshows in various key Chinese cities, the Wine Australia Annual Awards Ceremony recognizing outstanding promoters of the Australian wine as well as events for premium retail channels. Wine Australia is dedicated to promoting the quality and diversity of Australian wine. The organization regularly carries out A+ Australian Wine School programs for wine enthusiasts and consumers. It also organizes master classes and new media promotional activities.
It’s safe to say that Australia undoubtedly promoted itself in China with the most active, effective, innovative and influential efforts from 2010/11 to 2014/15. Therefore, Australian wine exports to China were able to quickly overcome the market downturn in the last fiscal year and remained in the second position after France with its outstanding 59% sales increase.
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Instead of practicing the existing approaches, Australia continued down the path of innovative marketing activities. Wine Australia is organizing a creative yet low-cost event called Thirsty Thursday Blind Tasting competition in various cities, showcasing the diversity and quality of Australian wine to industry specialists and kol.
The Australian Grape and Wine Authority (AGWA) came into being on 1 July, 2014 following the merger of Wine Australia Corporation and the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation. The merger consolidates industry resources and structure so as to more efficiently and cost-effectively utilize funds from vineyards and wine growers for R&D, market development and wine promotion.
Besides Wine Australia, the industry also initiates other marketing events. The State Government of Victoria invited a large number of Chinese wine importers and media to the local sub-regions. The Margaret River wine region to the south of Western Australia organized wine with cuisine events in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Chengdu. In the meantime, Australian vineyards actively participate in marketing events of wine importers. Nearly half of the participants at wine tasting events or dinners that I attended in Beijing were Australian vineyards.
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The latest activities of the Australian wine industry in China are also noteworthy. The Australian Retail leader Woolworths Liquor Group (WLG) has announced that it has acquired China-based wine and drinks distributor Summergate as part of its China strategy. TWE has also started to shift from relying on importers to building up its own direct distribution channels.
It can be expected that, in the near future, more Australian wine brands will appear in the Chinese market, together with larger presence of Australian investments and talents.
– LU Jiang, WineOnline.CN –