五月最佳性价比品酒会-葡道澳洲顶级酒品鉴

图文 / 陆江     编辑 / 王智慧

提到本月(2015年5月)北京品酒会的性价比,我相信北京葡道(Pudao Wines)举办的这场面向公众爱好者的澳大利亚顶级葡萄酒品酒会,完全有资格荣膺最佳。

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这场品酒会的酒款阵容豪华,都是来自于最新版-第六版澳洲最著名的精品酒(Fine Wine)排行榜-兰顿等级榜(简称兰顿榜)的最高级Exceptional的入列酒。作为澳洲零售业巨头WLG(Woolworth’s Lioquor Group)在华的全资分支酒类零售机构-葡道的这次手笔不小。6款酒每套酒(每种一瓶)的价格就在1万5千左右,而实收不到200元的品鉴费,是绝对的超值。当然葡道是有推广市场的因素,不过对于消费者来说是实打实的福利。

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这次超值活动还吸引到不少北京业内的不同酒商和葡萄酒教育机构的专业人士自费来参加。葡道总经理Marcus也专程从上海过来站台支持。

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每一款都是来自于不同的生产商,都是颇具声誉的澳洲重量级精品酒:

Grosset Polish hill Riesling是公认的白葡萄品种雷司令顶级生产商,以往试过数回,很喜欢他家风格,纯净又不失复杂度和集中度;

Giaconda Estate vineyard Chardonnay公认的澳洲白葡萄品种夏多内超一流作品,这一领域强手如林,我是第一次品鉴,竟有几分勃艮第夏多内顶级生产商Cochy dury的风格和实力;

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon,西澳赫赫有名的精品酒生产商,赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)做得精致,又有很强陈年实力;

Penfolds(奔富)707也是澳洲顶级赤霞珠的代表之一,在中国知名度最高的澳洲顶级精品酒之一;

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh shiraz是饱满强劲型澳洲顶级西拉子的代表作品之一。Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah是饱满不失优雅的澳洲顶级西拉子的代表,具备举重若轻的超一流实力。

 

详细酒款表现可参见后附的酒评记录(记录者:独立酒评人,国际国内葡萄酒大赛评委陆江)。现场还有专程来访的兰顿榜的创立者,国际著名葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW,他主持品鉴讲解现场的澳洲顶级酒和一些理念的分享。

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Andrew Caillard MW / 陆江摄影

Andrew Caillard MW虽然是英国人,但却是公认的澳大利亚葡萄酒权威,而且他对中国葡萄酒产区也相当熟悉——他曾走访中国10年之久,拍摄了一部与特定时期中国葡萄酒市场,消费理念,中国国产酒相关的获奖纪录片“红色痴迷(Red Obsession)”。

前几天我在澳洲走访维多利亚州产区时,看到一些名庄的酒屋(Cellar Door)里摆着“兰顿(Langton)的等级表”, 后来和当地葡萄酒工作者交流时知道,在澳洲精品酒市场,尤其拍卖和收藏领域,兰顿榜有着主导的影响力。

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陆江酒评词:

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2014
青柠,柑橘,白桃,油脂,中等酒体,酸度强劲贯穿,果味充沛,有一定集中度,口中有矿物感,有层次感,细腻,回味长。

Giaconda estate vineyard Chardonnay 2011
香气充沛,烤坚果,橘子,热带水果,香草,复杂,精致;中重酒体,酸度强,酒体和酸度整合不错,很平衡,集中,富有层次,香气丰富,回味长。实力强劲,有国际一线的勃艮第顶级夏朵内(Chardonnay)生产商Cochy Dury的风格。

Moss wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑莓,香料,黑醋栗,雪茄盒,精致气息,中重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁细致中强,平衡,回味长。

Penfolds(奔富) 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑醋栗,香草,雪茄盒,香料,咖啡豆,细致均衡的香气,重酒体,单宁强细致耐嚼,酸度中强,平衡,回味长,咖啡豆。

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh 2008 Shiraz
太妃糖,咖啡豆,香料,奶油,还有明显桉树叶气息,重酒体,单宁中强,质地厚实,酸度中强,饱满庞大,回味长。

Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah  2006
皮革,动物,黑巧克力,果酱,雪茄盒,甜香料,奶油,咖啡豆,复杂,重酒体,饱满庞大,单宁强但优雅细致,均衡分布,层次丰富,回味长。

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An Overview on New Zealand Winemaking Industry and the Chinese Wine Market

Photo & Text :Maxime LU

Source: ProWine China

In February, I was invited to visit most major wine regions in New Zealand. During the visit, I visited some chateaus with different styles and attended Regional Wines Tastings, which presented a complete picture of the southern-most wine producing country in the world. New Zealand wines feature consistent quality and reasonable price. They are lively, pure and full-bodied. They have clean aromas and distinctive characters. In particular, they boast of rich diversity, which is openly criticized by a lot of Chinese wine enthusiasts.

New Zealand stretches roughly 1,600 km from the North Island (36° S) to Central Otago (47° S), the world’s southern-most wine region. The country has a maritime climate, with all vineyards lying less than 130 km to the coast. Plenty of sunshine in the daytime and cool sea breeze at night result in big temperature difference in many wine regions, offering ideal production conditions for the growth of wine grapes. Being a coastal country, New Zealand rarely has extreme weather conditions. In addition, due to frequent crustal activities (numerous earthquakes and volcanoes), the change of river channels and human factors, New Zealand has complicated ground features and landforms, diverse soil constitutions as well as extremely different microclimates in different parcels. All these terroirs guarantee the diversity of local wines.

Another aspect worth noting is that grape planting in New Zealand originated in 1819, while the country’s winemaking industry hadn’t taken off until forty years ago, not being fettered by traditions. Rapid promotion of new technologies and constant innovation have been witnesses ever since. Meanwhile, local terroirs have been explored. Thanks to these efforts, the grape planting and winemaking techniques of the country’s winemaking industry have reached the world’s top level. The research on the microclimates and parcels in grape planting regions has reached a high level. As a result, the features of different parcels can be fully utilized. For instance, Pinot Noir grown in Wairarapa, Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury/Waipara Valley and Central Otago all have unique regional characteristics.

In terms of area, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are New Zealand’s leading varieties. In addition, there are quite a few aromatic varieties, such as Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Many winemaking practitioners are from other countries, where different grape varieties are planted. They are seeking for ideal vineyards to plant new varieties, such as Sangiovese, Malbec, Tempranilo, Albarino and Gruner Veltliner. New grape varieties with outstanding characteristics are planted. The diversification of grape varieties will be a trend of the country’s winemaking industry.

According to data of 2014, the overall plantings in New Zealand is 35,510 ha (1% higher than 2013), less than one-third of that of Bordeaux. The country produced 320 million liters of wine in that year, accounting for only 1% of the world’s total. New Zealand’s winemaking industry is small in scale. However, the unit price of wine ranks high among all wine producing countries. Therefore, the country pursues the strategy of offering wine with top quality. In New Zealand, 95% of chateaus are members of Sustainable Wine Growing New Zealand (SWNZ), and some of them even meet the standards of carbon neutrality.

New Zealand’s forward-looking winemaking industry strives to promote government legislation in a bid to enhance IPR protection and crack down on counterfeiting and infringement on local varietals. In April 2015, New Zealand Ministry of Economic Development and New Zealand Winegrowers jointly declared to establish the Geographical Indications (GI) system to protect the country’s internationally famed winemaking regions and varietals. It’s expected that the system will be established by the end of this year.

New Zealand winemaking industry entered the Chinese market in 2007. At that time, French wines dominated China’s imported wine market. In 2008, China and New Zealand signed the Free Trade Agreement, a turning point for the promotion of New Zealand wines in China. Soon, China rose to New Zealand’s biggest trading partner. According to the FTA between the two countries, zero tariffs will be imposed on New Zealand wines exported to China as from January 1, 2012, further cementing the confidence of New Zealand winemaking industry.

In market expansion, New Zealand winemaking industry is also pragmatic and ambitious. The growth rate of export value of wines is the highest of the country’s exported goods. In the end of 2014, wine ranked No.6 in the country’s exports.

With a small winemaking industry, New Zealand pursues the path of providing the finest varietal wines. Based on research and analysis on the Chinese wine market with huge potential, the country has worked out pragmatic and forward-looking promotional plans. Several years ago, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and New Zealand Winegrowers jointly introduced the highly efficient Wine High Impact Programme. Under the programme, influential wine experts from New Zealand participated in various campaigns in the Chinese wine market to build the country’s image as a leading winemaker.

Selected measures in recent years:
– Launching a dedicated Chinese website to promote New Zealand wines;
– Organizing New Zealand wine trade fairs regularly, with workshops, symposiums and food & wine matching dinners;
– Organizing delegations to participate in the most influential local wine trade fairs, such as Prowine China;
– Organizing key opinion leaders (KOL) and experts in China’s winemaking industry for study tours in New Zealand’s winemaking regions, and establishing KIWI CLUB for networking to enable more consumers to gain a knowledge of New Zealand wines;
– Carrying out traditional and social media-based marketing campaigns, for instance, interacting with consumers and publishing information via Weibo (microblog) and WeChat;
– Offering educational programs for New Zealand winemaking practitioners, for instance, holding workshops in the country to help local wineries to gain a better understanding of the Chinese market, so as to work out effective development strategies and expansion plans.

Meanwhile, New Zealand winemaking industry often launches training programs on local wines. For instance, in April, top wine masters from the country offered New Zealand wine certification programs for professionals. In addition to tier-1 cities, such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, training and certification systems are expected to cover tier-2 and tier 3 cities leading wine consumption.

Thanks to consistent efforts of New Zealand winemaking industry, the country’s wine exports to China rose from 268,000 liters (RMB 12.5 million in value) in 2007 to 1,920,000 liters (RMB 131 million in value) in 2014. In 2014, China became New Zealand’s sixth biggest destinations of wine exports, ranking after Australia, the U.S., the UK, Canada and the Netherlands.

Since the second half of 2012, the Chinese wine market has witnessed continued depression due to policy changes. In particular, the year 2014 is regarded as the most sluggish period. China’s total wine imports decreased by 5.7% compared with that of 2013. Nevertheless, wines imported from New Zealand rose by 34% in value and 11% in quantity during the same period. New Zealand wines have further expanded the share in China’s imported wine market. New Zealand winemaking industry has seen more potential in the Chinese market.

New Zealand winemaking industry has much confidence and expectations on the Chinese market. New Zealand Trade and Enterprise and New Zealand Winegrowers have jointly defined the goal towards the Chinese market in the next 5 years: The country’s wine exports to China will reach NZ$150 million by 2020. We are keen to see whether the goal will be realized.

– LU Jiang ( Maxime LU )

2015年份报告:新西兰

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编译:王智慧

官方数据要到六月初才能对外公布,不过目前所有的报告都显示: 新西兰2015年普遍干燥的气候,和部分地区的早期霜冻使得今年成为产量很低的一年。

新西兰最大葡萄酒产区马尔堡,前后发生共计15次霜冻。开花期的低温和80年来最干燥的气候导致低产,尤以长相思为甚。初步估计15年产量将比2014低15%-40%。

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圣诞老人驾着雪橇四处巡视那段时间,新西兰正值炎热干燥的夏季。一月下旬这个地区已在气象记录中确认的写下干旱,并迎来7个月以来最低的降雨量。这意味着病害压力不大,葡萄果实小而浓缩。

收获季节开始的早也结束的早。葡萄种植者Callum Linklater说,“我们三月初期开始采收黑皮诺,而大部分葡萄园在四月第一周采收工作就已完成。”

今年的收获季是Cloudy Bay有过最早的一次之一。酿酒师Nick Blampied-Lane描述长相思为“饱满成熟的水果——不是能够清晰感受到绿色风味的年份,有白色核果的味道。”

至于黑皮诺,被Seresin Estate的酿酒师Clive Dougall描述为,“果味浓郁,单宁并不过分强劲”,平衡,酒精度并不突出,仅为12.5%-13%。

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在黑皮诺为主的产区中奥塔哥。季初温暖,但紧接着11月的寒流来袭,山区可见降雪。“我们在户外行走时带着毛绒绒的帽子,葡萄藤在11月停止生长了。”  Prophet’s Rock的Paul Pujol这样形容 .

葡萄园接下来赶上了温暖的十二月、一月和二月。这三个月非常干燥。虽然二月的雨水带来了菌病的压力,但是雨水和滴灌都未能完全解决葡萄园干旱的问题。中奥塔哥葡萄种植者协会的发言人James Dicey这样讲。

通常采收时间为六周,今年仅用了四周。大部分酒庄在4月12日之前就完成了采收工作。4月12日骤冷降雪,霜冻的警报也拉响了。收获总量为10000公吨,比去年减产了5%。种植者表示他们对果实的成熟度,和愉悦的香气感到欣慰。

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新西兰北岛的霍克湾,在连续两年大丰收之后,又迎来一个好年份。此前担心气旋帕姆会为本区带来恶劣影响,但结果只是一个有些潮湿的周末“降雨量不足35mm,仅为之前预报的1/4.”此后一切如常。Sacred HIll 的Tony Bish评论说,“2013和2014都是特别好的年份。你不能指望每一年都达到这样的水准,但2015也并没有差很多。10分满分制我可以打到7或者8.”

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与中奥塔哥地区的紧凑的采收节奏不同,霍克湾葡萄品种繁多,经历了一个漫长干燥的秋季和收获过程。“诚实的讲最难的事情是员工管理。一波密集采收工作之后就是等待,然后是另一波,然后又是等待”。Bish说,“过程很分散,但坏天气并没有影响到晚收品种的采收工作。”

出处:www.wine-searcher.com

2015年份报告:澳大利亚

编译:王智慧

让我们从好消息说起,2015年澳大利亚许多重要产区的产品品质非常好,甚至可说是出色。坏消息则是产量较低。

今年依然延续了持续十年之久的早收趋势,尤其是克莱尔谷,今年是它最早进行采收工作的年份之一。Barry Wines的酿酒师Peter Barry认为不能把克莱尔谷的情况简单总结为未预测到,“我们采收赤霞珠的同时绝不可能采收西拉和雷司令。西拉和雷司令的采收时间上确实还有一些重叠,但赤霞珠和它们绝对是没有的。今年是我们采收红葡萄最早的年份,很不寻常。”

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恰巧Barry数月之前曾购买了一台筛选和破碎机,能够配合红白葡萄品种同时收获,“谢天谢地不然我们真是无处堆放,虽然产量还是下跌了。” 一些种植红葡萄品种的葡萄园产量下跌了60%,然而,“雷司令要比去年更好。红葡萄品种的品质非常不错。虽然乳酸发酵还没有完成,但是我们已经确认这批葡萄将用于酿造高端酒比如Armagh”。

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澳大利亚葡萄研究所种植学家Mardi Longbottom博士,与全区的种植者和生产者打交道,认为同时采收白葡萄和红葡萄品种确实是极其少见的情形。

所以到底发生了什么呢?”温暖的春天会缩短成熟期造成早收。”Longbottomg解释说,“气候在变化,我们应对这种情形已经十多年了”。但由于澳大利亚地域广阔,地区、产区、葡萄园之间的情形有很大不同,最终表现还是会有不少差异。

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玛格丽特河今年创造了一个极好年份,虽然春季的风暴减少了产量,尤其是霞多丽。Vasse Felix的酿酒师Virginia Willcock因此喜忧参半,“玛格丽特河霞多丽的需求量是很大的,尤其是品质这么好,却没有足够的量供应。赤霞珠也是。”

维多利亚的莫宁顿半岛是优秀的黑皮诺和霞多丽的产区。 Kooyong 和Port Phillip 的酿酒师Sandro Mosele讲,“按照官方说法,这是一个非常有前途的年份。但个人角度去看,它也许是我所亲自经历过的,产出酒体最平衡、优雅、精致的年份。”

雅拉谷同样表现出色,Barossa酒体强劲。

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虽然官方完整数据还未出炉,澳大利亚酿酒师联盟CEO Paul Evans总结,“泛泛的讲,今年有一个匆忙的收获季。天气对大多数葡萄园来说是友好的。品质优秀。我听说在有些地方被描述为‘教科书’一样完美”。尽管在部分地区出现了暴雨、大风以及野火等情形,因在生长季后期,并未有大影响,Evan说,“整体的共识是我们躲过了一劫。”

但是在猎人谷,暴雨是这个2015需要面对的严峻挑战,。夏季暴雨影响到了收成,尤其是在 Pokolbin地区,一些葡萄园受到了冰雹袭击。

一月,南澳阿黛莱德山区烧起了一场为期一周的肆虐的森林大火。毁掉了Sampson附近的几个葡萄园。非常不幸,一些非常棒的葡萄园的果实已经检测确认受到了烟雾污染。万幸的是大部分葡萄园并未被波及,依然有个好收成,品质受到好评。

文章出处:www.wine-searcher.com