万欧兰荐酒之最值得出手的名庄(十三)

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

万欧兰荐酒&带你认名庄系列又来啦!以后还陆续会有更多期,请期待~

要为你推荐的都是我们历届俱乐部活动或者趣味拍卖中曾经出现过的酒款,我们喝过之后认为这个性价比太赞了,或者确实能列入“死前必喝xx款”的list里的酒,十分有必要与你分享一下的

Lamborghini Campoleone

酒庄:Tenuta Lamborghini
产地:Umbria, Italy
年份:2010
国际均价:$44
The Wine Advocate(Robert Parker):94
James Suckling:95

从卖拖拉机发展到卖汽车再发展到卖顶级跑车,老Ferruccio Lamborghini把自己的人生演绎成一个逆袭的传奇。看下图,靠着拖拉机和靠着跑车的老头是不是气质上判若两人?

上世纪60年代末,Ferruccio开着自家跑车游山玩水的时候路过意大利翁布里亚大区背靠Trasimeno湖的中世纪古老小镇Panicale,觉得这地方美炸了,正适合我这么神仙一样的老人家颐养天年。此后,或许是如传闻所说的,时局动荡,财务困难,或许就是累了,总之Ferruccio卖掉了兰博基尼,在Trasimeno湖畔买下了100公顷的土地——32公顷葡萄园,其余为高尔夫球场和农场,从此归隐田园。顺带着为我们穷人谋了个福利:买不起兰博基尼的车,还可以喝兰博基尼的酒。

一转眼,往事如烟,兰博基尼几易其主,归属了德国大众。Ferruccio Lamborghini已于1993年辞世。老头的一子一女,儿子Tonino Lamborghini于1981年创了以公牛为标,与自己同名的时尚帝国,覆盖家具、手表、眼睛、香水、时装等等多个领域。同时也做酒,将意大利全境的各式好酒,贴上设计别致的,拥有兰博基尼名望附加值的酒标,再将这些OEM推向全球各地。你可能见过的红色陶瓷标的公牛之血便是其中经典。老头养老的那片葡萄园则是女儿在打理,勤勤恳恳,专心做酒。Campoleone Umbria IGT是她最出名的一款,帕克也为它说过好话,与Tonino Lamborghini的酒并非一回事。

↑↑↑这款酒以经典兰博基尼黄为底色,公牛图腾为标——公牛座、热爱斗牛的Ferruccio,九成以上车型的名称都是来源于历史上战功赫赫的斗牛。

Campoleone,因为使用了50%桑娇维塞+50%梅乐,只能被标记为IGT。部分葡萄种植于上世纪70年代刚买下酒庄的时候,算起来也四十多年了,严格控制产量:每公顷种植不超过5500株,每株产量不超过1公斤。浸皮长达18天,此后经苹果酸乳酸发酵,两个葡萄品种分别在100%法桶中陈年12个月后进行混合并装瓶,瓶陈六个月后上市。是一只香气丰沛,单宁柔和厚实,酒体细致,即使不顶着兰博基尼的名头也非常值得一试的葡萄酒。

Aglianico Bue Apis,Cantina del Taburno

酒庄:Cantina del Taburno
产地:Campania, Italy,
年份:2004
国际均价:$59

意大利的Campania是个很有意思的大区,在这里国际流行葡萄品种至今仍占少数,绝大多数仍为古老传统的原生品种。红葡萄多以单宁浑厚,酸度活跃,陈年实力突出的硬汉型为主。我们这里的酒庄Cantina del Taburno,建于1972年,以Aglianico del Sannio 为主要酿酒品种,也是我们这款酒的酿酒品种,姑且可被认为Aglianico的一个克隆种吧。葡萄来自于山坡之上的百岁老藤,产量极低,大约只有5000瓶,浸皮长达四十天,饱满成熟,单宁强劲但绝不粗糙,樱桃、烘烤还有一些果酱的香气,丰富美味。

Blue Apis的百年老藤

D’Oliveira Sercial 1937

酒庄:D’Oliveira
产地:Madeira, Portugal
年份:1937
国际均价:$405

距离葡萄牙里斯本约一千公里的马德拉岛,是个火山岛,盛产水果,旅游业发达,还以出产不死之酒-马德拉尤为著称。这种你们听起来可能会有点耳生的酒,与雪莉、波特相同,是加强酒的一种,源自大航海时代。虽然默默无闻,马德拉的身价却足以领跑最贵葡萄酒榜单——主要因为这些“不死之酒”的年龄大都老的吓人。Hart Davis Hart 2016年的一场拍卖上,一瓶1875年份的D’Oliveiras拍出了2400美元。。。总之你若见到马德拉记得多喝几口,一定不吃亏。

D’Oliveiras,最伟大的马德拉酒庄之一,始建于1850年,是少数逃过根瘤芽虫害一劫生存下来的酒庄之一,也是非常少有的没有被大财团收购的家族式马德拉酒庄。虽然产量不高,但以完美保存了诸多文物一般的老年份酒而著称,包括1850、1890等等18xx的,居然还能喝的年份!这里再普及一个年份马德拉的概念——马德拉中的极致风格,它们必须在酒标上标识出品种的名字,用贵族品种酿制,并且在橡木桶中熟化至少二十年以上。不过这个要求其实意义不大,毕竟我们这支来自1937年的马德拉距今已有81年了,七七事变的那一年。。。可以摆只酒瓶在家里提醒自己勿忘国耻!

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

酒庄:Taylor
产地:Douro, Portugal
年份: 1994
国际均价:$235
Wine Enthusiast:99
Wine Spectator:100
The Wine Advocate(Robert Parker):97

成立于1692年,顽强的挺过了根瘤蚜虫之灾和两次世界大战,Taylor Fladgate至今已拥有超过3个世纪的历史,只生产波特酒,没有其他。全称是Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman,酒庄就是由这三个家族拥有及管理。1744年,它成为第一家在杜罗河谷拥有葡萄园的英国波特酿造商。19世纪之后多次易手,最后为Joseph Taylor 和 John Fladgate所有,到了20世纪初Yeatman介入,才有了今天的这个名字。1893年,Taylor Fladgate收购了杜罗河谷最著名的葡萄园Quinta de Vargellas——这片梯田式的,拥有许多超过百年老藤的葡萄园的至今依然被认为是世界上最珍贵的葡萄园之一。后来又陆续收下Quinta de Terra Feita等多个名声赫赫的葡萄园,奠定了它在顶尖波特品牌的强者地位。

John Fladgate旗下各类波特都非常出色,不但是LBV(晚装瓶年份波特)的创始者,拥有全世界最大的茶色波特酒窖之一,年份波特也是它的绝对强项。酒庄只会在葡萄质量最好的年份,酿造年份波特(大概每十年中有三个)。每个年份都得到各大评分机构的盛赞,其中1992年份波特拿到罗伯特帕克的100分满分,2011年被JR盛赞。我们这里的拿到多家高分、WS满分的1994年也是它的最经典年份之一。

Domaine Rostaing, Côte Rôtie,La Landonne

酒庄:Domaine Rostaing
产地:Cote Rotie,Rhone, France
年份: 2005
国际均价:$138
Wine Spectator:95

Côte Rôtie是法国罗纳河谷的明星产区,葡萄园分布在Ampuis周围险恶的花岗岩梯田上。酿酒起源可以追溯到罗马时期,甚至更早。简希斯罗宾逊称这里的酒,“有着迷人的柔软感、果味十足的细腻感,和南部葡萄酒的温暖感,却更接近伟大的勃艮第红葡萄酒,因为它有精细的香气支持着结实的单宁,和赫米塔日的健壮感形成鲜明对照”。

Domaine Rostaing是罗纳河谷颇有名气的精品小庄,第一个生产年份是1971年,以创始人Rene Rostaing的名字为名。说起来就是媳妇儿娶对了,他的岳父Albert Dervieux先生曾担任Côte Rôtie酒农联盟理事长,是当地的大人物,妻子的叔父Marius Gentaz-Dervieux也是一位声望颇高的传奇酒农。Rene Rostaing从两位前辈那里继承了非常不错的葡萄园。虽然葡萄园面积较小,创始之时只有0.2ha,至今也不过7公顷Côte Rôtie 1公顷Condrieu,但园内多为古老而珍稀的老藤,且拥有Côte Rôtie顶尖的La Landonne和La Vialliere等葡萄园的地块。我们这里这款La Landonne(朗东园),酒庄一共拥有1.6ha,位于陡峭的坡地上,平均树龄超过60年,部分超过百年。收到过帕克超过20个满分的吉佳乐世家(Maison Guigal),以三款单一园,江湖人称三“La”的而著称,其中之一就是la Landonne。

Rostaing的这款La Landonne追求天然,求忠实表现风土,故而用桶不重,依情况采用15%-25%的新桶,酒体扎实优雅,单宁细致有力,表现出了罗第丘的典型特质。

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小谈葡萄牙的特色产区和品种

 陆江(Jiang LU-Maxime)

本文版权属于Prowine China,转载请标明出处“Prowine China”

对葡萄牙葡萄酒的认知,绝大部分消费者还停留在波特酒上。这个位于欧洲大陆西南位置的沿海长条状国家,事实上是个葡萄酒的强国,沿海产区主要受海洋性气候影响,内陆部分是大陆性气候作用区。有超过250个本土葡萄品种,葡萄牙大部分都是多品种调配酒,葡萄牙酿酒师很多是葡萄酒调配专家,这也是葡萄牙酒多样性的重要保证之一。在葡萄牙,无论就餐的餐厅的酒单还是本地的超市或是酒屋,葡萄牙本土葡萄酒占绝对主导,这庞大的内需市场是本国生产商的市场基础。

包括成名已久的瑰宝级加强型酒波特和马德拉在内,其实从北到南有不少颇具特色的产区和品种。

我有幸在过去一年内走了三趟葡萄牙产区,尤其今年5月还应邀担任了Viniportugal葡萄牙葡萄酒协会(Viniportugal将参加在上海举办的ProWine China 2014展会)主办的葡萄酒大赛的唯一中国大陆评委,6月从北到南走访了葡萄牙大部分主力产区,而且还访问了马德拉岛。这些经历提升了我对葡萄牙酒的认知和了解。在我走过的产区中有些品种,在大陆认知很少,但佳品辈出,值得选出一些和大家分享:

在葡国西北部有着著名的绿酒产区,绿酒并非与颜色有关,更多指的是其采收略早,成熟度偏低,比较清浅,新鲜,经常带有微泡。当地用到的奥瓦里诺(Alvarinho,葡国外一般叫Albarino)可以出品果味和矿物均衡,清爽复杂,富有层次的白葡萄酒上品。今年11月来上海参加ProWine China 2014酒庄有Quinta Da Lixa等。
片岩土壤,梯田特色的杜罗河产区(Douro),是法国杜丽佳(Touriga Franca),国家杜丽佳(Touriga Nacional),丹魄(Tinta Roriz,Tempranilo,南部也称Aragones)等波特酒主力三品种的种植区。在我采访时,发现当地逐渐崛起的单一品种葡萄园,和混种葡萄园的理念都各有其拥趸者,这也正是新兴和传统的主要差异点之一。
douro

百拉达(Bairrada)产区是我最大的收获之一。尤其红葡萄品种巴加(Baga),有很好的酸度,既可做成传统雄壮饱满,也可做成细腻富有结构感,有很好的陈年实力,细腻程度甚至在国家杜丽佳(Touriga Nacional)之上。还有当地高性价比,实力相当出色的起泡酒,本区起泡酒产量占全国的65%。

在里斯本大区的布塞拉斯(Bucelas)法定产区是阿林图(Arinto)白葡萄酒的上佳产地,爽脆,细腻复杂,也有很好的集中度。

塞图巴尔(Setubal)半岛是红葡萄卡斯特劳(Castelao)的完美生长地区,成熟的单宁,加上均衡的酒体,适中的口感,可以在中国市场上有更多的发展潜力。塞图巴尔的特色,是加强型的塞图巴尔麝香葡萄甜酒(Moscatel de Setubal),芬芳甜美,经过在橡木桶陈年后会发展成复杂,饱满厚重的加强型麝香甜酒。我参观时尝到的1911年份,百年老酒,陈皮甘草蜂蜜,超级凝缩,不弱果酸居然依旧支撑上佳甜酸平衡,可惜只能在拍卖会买到,而这款酒的生产商就是去年参加了ProWine China的JOSE MARIA DA FONSECA,他家也是塞图巴尔最有代表性的生产商之一。

setubal

阿连特茹(Alentejo)产区有大量的生产软木塞的栓皮栎,但土壤和气候有着丰富的多样性,有一些实力不弱的产区,还有些老藤,可以出产高质量的酒款,本区还逐渐引进不少国际品种。

距葡萄牙本土1000公里外马德拉岛的马德拉加强酒,号称不死之酒,自是享誉全球,可惜收藏级马德拉产量有限,尤其年份马德拉(Vintage Madeira)需要培养20年才能出厂,价格不菲。所幸还有其它相对量大价平的马德拉产品。参展商有Justino’s ;Henriques & Henriques.

madeira

随着这几年葡萄牙葡萄酒在中国市场的推广,以及消费者需求的多样性,中国在去年已成为继安哥拉,美国,加拿大和巴西后的第五大欧盟以外的出口市场,去年销售额已达1200万欧元。而且今年在市场上的推广力度也有所加大,从面向业内专业人士的葡萄酒课程的开设,组团参加ProWine China展会,和邀请媒体到产区访问。尽管中国市场还是在受到中央政府三公限制政策的影响,但是我们惊喜得发现葡萄牙精品酒在中国的销量不断攀升。高品质、精致化、性价比好以及颇具市场潜力的葡萄牙葡萄酒正在被越来越多的进口酒商所认知。位于欧陆最西端的葡萄牙老牌的旧世界产酒国,过去不断致力于葡萄酒产业革新。未来,葡萄牙将为中国消费者带来更多别具一格口味的葡萄酒。

 

An Overview of Distinctive Wine Regions and Varieties in Portugal

Jiang LU-Maxime

As to wines from Portugal, most consumers only know Porto Wine. Portugal is a coastal and strip-shaped country in the Southwest of the European Continent as well as a major producer of wine. Its coastal regions are affected by the oceanic climate while its inland regions by the continental climate. There are over 250 native varieties of grapes. Most Portuguese wines are blended with several varieties. Most winemakers in Portugal are experts in blending wine, which is another guarantee for the diversity of Portuguese wines. Native wines dominate the menus of local restaurants, supermarkets and pubs. The enormous domestic market is the very basis for local wineries.
Including the fortified Porto Wine and Madeira which are time-honoured and much-treasured, there are many distinctive wine regions and varieties from the north to the south.
Last year, I visited wine regions in Portugal for 3 times. In May this year, I was the only judge from the Chinese Mainland to the Wine Competition organized by Viniportugal (Viniportugal will attend ProWine China 2014 in Shanghai). In June, I visited most wine regions from the north to the south and even the Madeira Island. All those trips contribute to my knowledge on Portuguese wines. Some varieties I spotted during my visits, little known to people in the Chinese Mainland, produce premium wines for generations. Here I choose some to share with you:
There are some famous green wine regions in Northwest Portugal. Green wines have nothing to do with the colour but come from early harvest of grapes. Green wines are low in maturity. They are light and fresh with microbubbles. Native Alvarinho (termed as Albarino outside Portugal) can produce top white wine tinged with a balance of fruit and minerals. The aftertaste is light and complex with layers. Chateau like Quinta Da Lixa will attend ProWine China 2014 in Shanghai this November.
The Douro Valley, featured with schist soil and terrace, is one of the 3 staple regions of Porto Wines (Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Roriz, Tempranilo —— also called Aragones in the south). During my visits, I found that the philosophies of both vineyards with a signal variety and ones with several varieties have their fans respectively. That is one of the major differences between the emerging and the traditional.
I learnt the most from the visit to Bairrada. Baga, a red wine variety, can make wines with good acidity. It can produce wines to be magnificent, traditional and full as well as having a delicate structure. Wines of that kind are good for storage. Their mellowness is better than that of Touriga Nacional. There are excellent cost-effective sparkling wines in the local area. This area is home to 65% of the country’s sparkling wines.
Bucelas AOC in the Lisboa Region is home to Arinto white wine which is brisk, mellow and complex with good concentration.
Peninsula de Setubal is the perfect habitat for Castelao red wines. Their mature tannin, balanced body and moderate taste may have greater potential in the Chinese market. The signature wine of Setubal is the fortified Moscatel de Setubal, which is sweet and fragrant, complex after years’ storage in oak barrels. It is a fortified musk sweet wine of full thickness. I tasted the 1911 vintage during my visit. The 100-year wine, superbly condensed, favoured of citrus, licorice and honey, is of strong AHA but with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. What a pity it can only be bought at auctions. Its maker is JOSE MARIA DA FONSECA which attended ProWine China last year. They are one of the representatives in Setubal.

The Alentejo region has an abundance of cork oaks which are to produce corks. The soil and climate are diversified here. There are vieilles vignes in some areas with edges, which contribute to superior wines. Quite a few overseas species are increasingly introduced in this region.
Madeira Fortified Wine, dubbed as Immortal Wine, is produced on the Madeira Island, 1,000 km from Mainland Portugal. Though it is well-renowned in the world, there is a very limited production of AAAAA Madeira. The making of Vintage Madeira, in particular, shall last for 2 decades, so the pricing is staggering. Fortunately, there is a large supply of other low-priced Madeira. Exhibitors include Justino’s and Henriques & Henriques.
With the publicity of Portuguese wines in the Chinese market over the past years and the diversified consumer demand, China became the 5th largest export market outside the EU after Angola, the United States, Canada and Brazil in 2013. The sales hit 12 million Euros last year. This year, more efforts have been devoted to the publicity like offering wine courses to professionals, recruiting delegations to ProWine China and inviting media people to visit wine regions. Though the Chinese market is constrained by the restrictive policies of the Central Government (for reducing the consumption of public funds on official receptions, vehicles and overseas trips), we are surprised to see that the sales of premium Portuguese wines are soaring. Portuguese wines, high-qualified, elegant and cost-effective with considerable market potentials, are gaining favour by wine importers. Portugal, on the west tip of the European Continent, is an Old World wine maker for a long time. In the past, the country was always a renovator in the wine industry. In the years ahead, it will bring about more distinctive wines for Chinese consumers.