在宁夏西鸽酒庄的调配实验游戏

国庆长假,在宁夏最大的精品酒庄西鸽酒庄,参观酒庄和葡萄园,学习采收和品鉴酒庄出品酒款。

酒庄现有葡萄种植面积2万亩,未来目标年产一千万瓶,销售额目标15亿元。

整个酒庄,配套完整,包括视频播放区,发酵区,桶培区,酒庄shop,咖啡吧,图书阅读区,酒庄酒店,还有分布办公各处的小景等。还有和生产隔开的适合葡萄酒旅游的参观路线,都已设计考虑到。酒庄用料用材用的设备基本都是业内最高配置。

酒庄庄主张言志,再三纠正,“我们虽然规模大,但不是酒厂,我们依旧是精品酒庄”。

参观品鉴之余,还参与了葡萄酒调配游戏活动,我和西农的段婧老师搭档为一组。

主持葡萄酒调配游戏的是专业中的专业人士,中国最具国际知名度的酿酒大师,中国马瑟兰之父李德美老师。

西鸽酒庄四款基酒:
2018贵人香
2018 N28
2018单一园赤霞珠 9个月桶
2018单一园蛇龙珠 9个月桶
目标是调出一款特别版蛇龙珠。

西鸽酒庄

西鸽酒庄的蛇龙珠算是宁夏产区成熟度最高的。宁夏入冬相对早,对于普遍带卷叶病毒的蛇龙珠,因为成熟期甚至比赤霞珠还晚,所以绝大部分蛇龙珠制成酒都有明显生青味,而西鸽酒庄的蛇龙珠是冒险等到十月中旬才采,不是特别敏感,已闻不到明显的生青味。

我们先把四款都品鉴一番,记录各自特点。其实都是可以直接独立装瓶定位不同的酒。

尤其单一园赤霞珠本身就有着饱满庞大的结构,骨架完整,颇具实力。

单一园蛇龙珠也有不错结构,就是单宁稍微有点突出,可以通过调整酒体等要素来达到制衡增益。

因为葡萄酒国家标准是超过75%以上的单一品种,就可以在酒标上只标该品种。所以我们有至多25%的发挥空间。

因为平时玩调配,基本都是红基酒调出红葡萄酒,我这次执意想尝试白葡萄酒用进去的效果,希望增加香气复杂度和清新度,同时柔化蛇龙珠的酒体增加易饮性。不过白葡萄酒的加入也会削弱了蛇龙珠的结构感和集中度,我们再加入些饱满圆润的单一园赤霞珠加强白葡萄酒减弱的酒体部分。

不过我犯了个错,酒调完还没稍微融合,我就立刻品鉴,开始感觉整体结构还不错,结果基本达到我们的要求。然后就匆忙交了功课。

可没想到静置半小时后集体盲品排序时,发现我们那款酒结构有点塌了,变成了一款柔滑、清新、易饮,有着一定集中度的小酒(其实还是挺可口的),明显需要再增加些单一园赤霞珠的比例来增补结构。

我们组被我这个低级错误耽误了,以后记住调配完还是稍微融合再品鉴。对同组的段老师,还挺抱歉的。

其它三组都是正常的红红调配,单一园蛇龙珠和单一园赤霞珠之间的不同比例调配,保留了庞大的结构。我们的突破虽然被我的低级错误拖累了,不过,也学到了不少知识点和经验。

最后各组品鉴后按品质排序,我们组还算得了个安慰,是唯一一个品质排序正确的小组,看来还是当个Taster吧。

Enlightment brought to us by Helan Mountain Foothill District Development Summit Forum

Written By Maxime Lu            Edited by Serien Wang

On behalf of WINEONLINE.CN, I participated in Ningxia Helan Mountain Foothill District Development Summit Forum this afternoon, which is one of the many meetings organized by Chengdu Wine Fair: China’s biggest annual wine expo.

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Joy and mean jokes interspersed in multilateral dialogues and all the speeches given by officials and experts. Anyway the overall keynote here is positive without any doubts.

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The speech given by governor of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region reveals their developed awareness of wine industry and their genuinely hopes to promote it. “Terroir ” of Ningxia is relatively good, but the true development impetus of the industry will be government guidance. Although problems can still be found in innovative mechanism of investment and in relevant support measures, Ningxia Helan Mountain foothill has become the best known Chinese wine region in the world (Situation is much more miserable for HL). Resources and capital are accumulated in this place.

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It is very important that many wineries have already realized that they should be quality-based and keep themselves on track with long term aspirations instead of getting anxious to achieve instant benefits. Accordingly, pricing in wineries in Ningxia become more and more reliable.

The way to promote traditional Baijiu brands cannot be applied to these wineries as they are in much smaller scale. But in fact many practitioner in Ningxia wine industry and even some so-called marketing experts still take for granted that they should copy marketing rules of Baijiu, and implement the strategy of so-called big brands.

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The right thing is to take the actual situation of Chinese market and unique characteristics of wine products into account before you devise any brand strategy. Again, I’d like to emphasize on the importance of quality. It is the quality that help Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars stir in the Paris tasting, and get opportunities to create high-end brand in the later stage.

More and more consumers choose imported wine with high cost effectiveness instead of famous domestic brand like Zhangyu. Actually big brand did see their declining in market share over the past few years. Just don’t underestimate the intelligence of consumers and their gradually widened vision.

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