金钟酒庄(Angelus)垂直品鉴会记录

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

国际著名顶级庄金钟酒庄(Chateau Angelus)的庄主主持垂直品鉴会记录,3周多的春节长假,没带电脑,拖到现在才发布。

2016年1月27日,我在北京香港马会参加波尔多顶级名庄金钟(Chateau Angelus)的垂直品鉴会,同时也是一本介绍金钟酒庄的书籍发布会,有中英法三个版本。

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新书《金钟酒庄》发布,有中英法三种语言版本,能看出对中国市场的重视。封面内是与豹子形象共存的老庄主Hubert de Bouard,在他的努力之下,金钟酒庄被提升到了一个新的里程碑式的高度,成为波尔多真正意义上的一线顶级酒庄。

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金钟酒庄(Chateau Angelus)庄主Stephanie de Bouard

金钟酒庄第八代传人、带着身孕的美女庄主Stephanie de Bouard在现场主持介绍,她原来离开家族在英国学金融,后在伦敦私人银行业工作了五年,近年来正式回归家族,逐渐执掌酒庄管理大权。近年收了5公顷葡萄园,还有收购圣爱美浓(St Emilion)当地最古老的餐厅。她2012开始接手管理酒庄,而2015年份是她真正参与酿造的第一个年份。

金钟酒庄2012年份酒标文字是镀金嵌入瓶身的21K金哦。特殊酒标含义特别,为了纪念升级为一级A;也是第八代家族传承者开始接手酒庄;同时历经20多月的努力,酒庄整修工程也在这年完工;酒庄在这年收了平均藤龄30多年的5公顷葡萄园,我还特别问了这片葡萄园产出的去向,Stefanie解释说用于副牌Carillon。期待未来有机会去这家实力强劲的酒庄走访,看看在新庄主带领下的变化。

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陆江(Jiang LU – Maxime)品酒记录及打分:

Le Carillon de l’Angelus(金钟副牌) 2012

香料,咖啡豆,烟熏,黑巧克力,黑莓,中重酒体,酸度中强,柔和适饮,单宁中等,回味长。(86)

 

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Chateau Angelus 金钟酒庄 2007

皮革,动物皮毛,黑巧克力,香料,重酒体,柔滑,单宁强,骨架清晰细致,酸度中强活跃,平衡,经典风格,回味长。(90)

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Chateau Angelus 金钟酒庄 2011

香料,黑莓,黑巧克力,重酒体,单宁强且较为厚实,骨架均衡分布,收敛感明显,平衡,酸度中强活跃,细致,回味长,烟熏。(92)

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Chateau Angelus 金钟酒庄 2009

雪茄,香料,皮革,火腿,烟熏,重酒体,很好的集中度,饱满庞大,酸度中强活跃,单宁强且均衡分布,厚实收敛,平衡,回味长,烟熏,香料。强大的潜力。(99)

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Chateau Angelus 金钟酒庄 2012 

果味充沛,烟熏,黑莓,黑醋栗,香料,黑巧克力,重酒体,酸度中强,平衡,不错的集中度,饱满不失优雅,回味长。(95)

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北京香港马会的菜品:

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Australian Wines and the Chinese Market

 

Text & Photo by Maxime LU

The decade-long negotiations between China and Australia over the free trade agreement finally concluded in triumphant success on 17 June, 2015. The China-Australia Free Trade Agreement (ChAFTA) was signed in Canberra, Australia by government representatives of the two countries. Later, schedules of tariff reduction commitments for a range of products, including wine in the next five years were released. Under the ChAFTA, the tariff on Australian wine imports will reduce from a base rate of 14% to 11.2% in year one, 8.4% in year two, 5.6% in year three, and 2.8% in year four. The final abolishment of the tariff is expected to come in 2019. Australia has been under tremendous economic pressure in recent years. Its high welfare payments, among other causes, have resulted in heavy fiscal deficit. Meanwhile, Australia is experiencing price drops of its major exports such as iron ore. In light of the situation, the Australian government has been working on promising products in other areas, with wine being one of the key growth points for the Australian economy.

 

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The Australian wine industry dates back to 1788. Since then, the country has grown to be a leading producer in the New World of Wine with comprehensive competitiveness. I have visited major wine regions such as the Western Australia, Southern Australia and Victoria. Though my trips haven’t yet covered New South Wales and Tasmania, Australia’s unique viticulture advantages have already left a deep impression on me. The great diversity and outstanding quality guarantee of Australian wines are a combined result of its geographic location (standalone continent), strict environmental protection measures, the concept of sustainability, its complex terroir, openness of the industry, professional talent training organizations (represented by the University of Adelaide) and its R&D centers for wine technologies. Australia offers a wide range of great wine options for daily or individualized consumption. In the international wine market, the Australian wine has become widely recognized.
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Australia is the world’s fifth largest wine exporter. According to the latest statistics released by Wine Australia, in the 12 months to 30 June, 2015, the value of Australian wine exports rose 5 per cent to A$1.89 billion, and its volume rose 4 per cent to 720 million liters. This is the first time the value of wine exports has increased on a financial year basis since 2006/07. The export volume is also the highest since 2010/11. Australia’s top five export countries take up 72% of the total wine export value, namely the U.S. (down 7.9 per cent to A$415 million), the UK (down 1.5 per cent to A$369 million), Mainland China (up 32.1 per cent to A$280 million), Canada (down 0.7 per cent to A$182 million) and Hong Kong (up 28.4 per cent to A$112 million). The Chinese market has experienced the strongest growth. Australia’s middle range and premium wines (above A$7.50/liter) are doing quite well in China, the number one destination for Australian wine exports. During the same period, Australian wine has remained as the second top seller in China’s import wine market with sales of US$356 million (increase of 59%), which is 1.44 times higher than that of Chile in the third place.
Statistics reveal that Australia cannot afford to ignore the potentials and importance of the Chinese market. To better understand how Australian wine exports are developing in China, we shall take a look at the Figure “Bottled exports to China by price points”, which shows volume developments of bottled exports at two different price points.
In 2005/06, China’s tariffs on imported wine have been substantially reduced. Meanwhile, increasingly active international communications and the rising national income have contributed to a growing demand for imported wines, as more and more Chinese people took a liking to wine drinking on various occasions. In the period from 2005/6 to 2008/9, Australia wine exports to China have steadied its volume at a stable growth rate. However, the total annual volume remained insignificant due to insufficient marketing efforts.
The global financial crisis in 2008/09 has dragged the Australian dollar to Chinese Yuan Renminbi exchange rate down to a low point. Australian wines thus have become quite cost efficient. At the same time, China has entered a boom of growth in the wine market. The government’s 4-trillion infrastructure investment (to counteract the effects of financial crisis) has led to excess of liquidity, which not only vitalized China’s wine market, but also increased the volume of low-end Australian wine imports by China. However, these factors didn’t benefit the middle range and premium Australian wines, as Bordeaux wine was an absolute market dominator in the segment.
The Australian dollar exchange rate rebounded in 2010/2011. Wine dealers were struggling with excessive stock as a result of rushing into the market in the previous period. The market demand for low-end Australian wines slowed down. The Chinese government has adopted tightened economic policies, resulting in a declining premium wine market led by Bordeaux wines.
Starting in 2010/2011, the Australian government started to target more resources to the Chinese wine market. Wine Australia has clearly reinforced its promotional efforts on bringing Australian wines to China. A series of effective promotional measures were introduced, such as inviting Chinese wine specialists, media and kol (key opinion leaders) to Australian wine regions, and implementing A+ Australian Wine School programs in China. Australian wine’s image of quality and diversity started to take root in the Chinese market. The market responded by a remarkable increase of sales for A$5/liter (export price) Australian wines.
In the second half of 2012 to 2013, the Chinese government launched an anti-corruption campaign to curb the “three public expenses” (expenses on vehicles, receptions and overseas trips). These activities sent a great blow to the Chinese wine market that relied heavily on public expenses and institutional consumption. Above A$5/liter Australian wines were also affected by the campaign, whereas low-end segment wines were not. By then, the Chinese wine market began transferring its focus to the segment of individual consumption.
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In light of the latest market development, Wine Australia has mobilized relevant industry players to launch a series of marketing activities. For example, grape harvest tours to Australia were organized. Australia actively participated in the leading ProWine China and many other influential wine trade fairs on the Chinese mainland. Other marketing activities include wine tasting roadshows in various key Chinese cities, the Wine Australia Annual Awards Ceremony recognizing outstanding promoters of the Australian wine as well as events for premium retail channels. Wine Australia is dedicated to promoting the quality and diversity of Australian wine. The organization regularly carries out A+ Australian Wine School programs for wine enthusiasts and consumers. It also organizes master classes and new media promotional activities.
It’s safe to say that Australia undoubtedly promoted itself in China with the most active, effective, innovative and influential efforts from 2010/11 to 2014/15. Therefore, Australian wine exports to China were able to quickly overcome the market downturn in the last fiscal year and remained in the second position after France with its outstanding 59% sales increase.
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Instead of practicing the existing approaches, Australia continued down the path of innovative marketing activities. Wine Australia is organizing a creative yet low-cost event called Thirsty Thursday Blind Tasting competition in various cities, showcasing the diversity and quality of Australian wine to industry specialists and kol.
The Australian Grape and Wine Authority (AGWA) came into being on 1 July, 2014 following the merger of Wine Australia Corporation and the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation. The merger consolidates industry resources and structure so as to more efficiently and cost-effectively utilize funds from vineyards and wine growers for R&D, market development and wine promotion.
Besides Wine Australia, the industry also initiates other marketing events. The State Government of Victoria invited a large number of Chinese wine importers and media to the local sub-regions. The Margaret River wine region to the south of Western Australia organized wine with cuisine events in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Chengdu. In the meantime, Australian vineyards actively participate in marketing events of wine importers. Nearly half of the participants at wine tasting events or dinners that I attended in Beijing were Australian vineyards.
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The latest activities of the Australian wine industry in China are also noteworthy. The Australian Retail leader Woolworths Liquor Group (WLG) has announced that it has acquired China-based wine and drinks distributor Summergate as part of its China strategy. TWE has also started to shift from relying on importers to building up its own direct distribution channels.
It can be expected that, in the near future, more Australian wine brands will appear in the Chinese market, together with larger presence of Australian investments and talents.
– LU Jiang, WineOnline.CN –

加州纳帕葡萄酒生活之趣味小店

        文:舞雯弄墨     图:部分来自于网络

  在钢筋水泥里生活的太久,早已厌倦了众人追逐的品牌专卖,又不喜欢百货公司的简单直白,反而钟情于街边的二手小摊,邻居家待售的旧货和镇子上的风格独具的小店。那种淘货的心情,就像是在窗户外努力透过半掩的窗帘,终于窥探到别人家里的样子;或是打开别人家的冰箱,看到里面装了很多好吃的,惊喜又鹊兴,而且总能发现些与众不同。

在纳帕这样远离繁华都市却又高度旅游化的酒乡小镇,自然缺少不了有趣的小店。我能知道Napa general store是因为一本品酒笔记本。当时是在一个品酒会上,看见有人拿着这个小本边品尝边记录,很是喜欢,虽说品酒手机软件多的数不胜数,可还是觉得在纸上写写画画更踏实。

本子的格式很清晰,可以让你快速的记录酒体特征。

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好奇心驱使下打听到这个本子是在Napa general store 买的,于是驱车前往。

Napa general store位于小镇中心的主街道上,临近河边,比邻Napa river inn。这里曾经是纳帕磨坊的旧厂房,而小店也直接借助了厂房原汁原味的红砖墙和高举架。

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小店不大,却藏了很多好东西,若想发现更多惊喜还真是要一个一个角落的搜索。小店里的一切都和葡萄酒有关,不仅卖葡萄酒周边小物,饰品,衣服,还可以品酒,甚至买几瓶物美价廉的好酒(“葡萄酒在线”特别推荐)。

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下午四点前如果逛累了还可以坐下歇一歇,喝杯咖啡,吃点东西。(cafe)

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不是走进这里,真的很难想象原来旧橡木桶回收之后能变化出这么多样子。旧桶利用的图片可以说是布满网络,可是能把每一个部分都应用自如,甚至看不出原来的模样还真是惊喜。

整个酒桶可以拆开在重新组装成一套户外桌椅,想象一下坐在酒桶改造的桌椅中品酒会是怎样的惬意。

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或者是利用桶身的一部分做成酒架也别有风格。

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还有酒桶盖子也可以做成的悬挂式酒架,简单实用。

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甚至还能利用桶盖的自然圆形做成钟表。

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我们常喝的葡萄酒已经是营造气氛的利器了,没想到酒桶也可以再利用。由酒桶的木条改装的烛台别有氛围。甚至是一块枯葡萄藤的树都可以拿来做成烛台,点燃无尽的快乐。

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哪怕是店里的配饰都是如此独特。如果你恰巧厌倦了水晶珍珠,那么来一对这种橡木质地的银质耳环怎么样?

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想做环保人士,拒绝动物皮革,又不喜人造皮革的味道,那么来看看回收软木塞再加工成的“软木塞”皮具是否和你心意?是不是简洁又素雅呢。

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店里还有许许多多的挂饰,壁画,无不例外,也都是和葡萄酒相关,或是小常识,或是一些有爱的警句,还需要大家自己去发掘更多惊喜。

 

舞雯弄墨:《葡萄酒在线》常驻加州纳帕的撰稿人,现为纳帕名庄工作,有多国名庄工作经验。

* 葡萄酒在线-WINEONINE.CN,分享美酒美食和旅游的信息平台,公众号:wineclos

万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列137,“乱战黑皮诺”活动总结

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

10月18日下午,黑皮诺盲品局欢乐开场。陆江老师在分别介绍了本次八款黑皮诺的背景和相关知识之后,就挨个开瓶进醒酒器开始盲品。由于这位老师拥有类似鱼的记忆,酒倒在第一个酒杯里的瞬间已经忘掉出自哪一瓶,所以能够与大家一道快乐享受盲品游戏的乐趣。

此次盲品以连线的形式作答,虽说是降低了难度,可也让大家更加纠结。下面我们不道德的曝光一下冠军Justin的答题纸,你能看出他挣扎的内心吗?

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此外,本次活动非常善良的选用了不同产区各具特点的黑皮诺,共性除了都是皮诺,就是都是好酒~阿根廷的Treinta Y Dos, Bodega Chacra酒庄,是意大利名酒Sassicaia所在酒庄San Guido在阿根廷的patagonia建立的。以阿根廷并不主打的Pinot Noir,位列winesearcher阿根廷最昂贵葡萄酒top10之内。

新西兰的Pyramid是生物动力的典范,注意,不是谦辞,是真典范!Earth Smoke Pinot Noir被不少国际酒评机构和酒评人列为新西兰最顶尖的黑皮诺之一。

Echezeaux Grand Cru,Domaine Jean Grivot, 2008大名庄的依休斯特级园,大家都认得,不必多说。

Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles Domaine de Montille 2009 是名家De Montille家的庞马一级园。

Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans Domaine de Montille 2008 则是De Montille家的一级园。

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最后是Justin一举夺魁,小培随后在剪刀石头布竞技中与同分选手PK胜出。获得佳士得北京会所的勃艮第济贫院拍卖前预展品酒会名额。恭喜恭喜,部分夺冠热门的资深酒友由于 “想太多”、“把评委揣测的太复杂”不幸落榜,下次要继续努力打败评委哦!

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当天拍卖阵容豪华,红颜容1997在十几轮竞拍之后被韩松拿下。Barolo2007花落小培家,而西班牙大牌Contador的Andres Romeo则被表示“我喝过这个不错”的汀汀抱走。

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最后大力感谢土拔鼠同学为我们带来的原麦山丘的面包,搭配陆江老师亲手制作,大受表扬的鹅肝(见下图),以及吴英带来的一点渣渣都没有剩下的曲奇。友情自带食物的小伙伴都是最可爱的人。也期待下次活动陆老师要带来的陈年奶酪。下期再见啦。

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