万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列145活动总结“初夏黄酒局”

酒量我们是天生的,喝酒我们是认真的。在举杯之前要抱着尊敬的心情认真了解你面前这杯子里的液体才行。上周日俱乐部迎来了一堂绍兴黄酒课,,绍兴人陆江老师系统的讲解了黄酒基础知识,包括黄酒的历史、分类、保存方法、酿造工艺、麦曲(糖化、黄曲霉、红曲霉、黑曲霉、根霉等)以及其他各种相关知识。

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下次碰到自称酒龄长久经验丰富的酒友就可以坐下跟他聊聊:你知道制造绍兴酒必须使用鉴湖水吗?你知道2014著名黄酒品牌古越龙山的水门事件吗?你知道手工原酒和机器制酒的差别在哪里吗?你知道绍兴黄酒是中国第一个地理标志保护产品吗?你知道黄酒的发酵时间为什么比葡萄酒长那么多吗?你知道五年陈、十年陈的时间的确切含义吗?

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最后,你吃过陆江老师亲手煮的茴香豆么?两斤豆一颗不剩我会乱说?没有赶得及参加活动的小伙伴,请默默擦去你们的眼泪。

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从元红到加饭、善酿、香雪,甜度和复杂度逐级上升。同时尝试了陈皮焦糖味道,干净清爽的塔牌,和有马德拉和胶水气息,饮之难忘的古越龙山。最后又尝试了陆老师亲手分坛的20年私藏酒,精致圆润。至此我们也算是对黄酒有个框架的概念啦。

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以下为陆江老师的品酒笔记,仅供参考:

绍兴黄酒
元红
杏仁,香料,fino雪莉酒气息,糟香,中轻酒体,酸度中等,柔和简单,回味短,一丝焦糖气息。

加饭
杏仁,陈皮,香料,马德拉,中等酒体,酸度中等,简单,有一定集中度,微热感,回味短。

善酿
陈皮,甘草,微微酱油气息,中重酒体,酸度中等,圆润,简单,饱满,回味短,有焦糖味。

香雪
甘草,陈皮,烟熏,重酒体,酸度中等,圆润饱满,简单,回味中短,有烟熏,焦糖苦感。

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2012塔牌手工原酒
陈皮,香料,杏仁,果干,焦糖,中重酒体,酸度中等,有集中度,干净,有一定层次感,回味中长。

2008古越龙山手工原酒
马德拉陈年气息,胶水,辛辣,杏仁,陈土气息,中重酒体,酸度中强,有一定集中度,有层次感,平衡,活跃,回味中长。

20年私藏坛分酒
杏仁,香料,陈皮,焦糖,柚子,香气平和细腻,酸度中强,中重酒体,圆润柔和,凝缩,活跃平衡,有层次,回味长。

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最后的拍卖小环节,同样惊喜多多,看到小编心爱的苏玳和罕见的05年份Didier Dagueneau以及007香槟等等被抱走,各种羡慕,一起喝一起喝啊~~

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最后,感谢塔牌绍兴酒酿酒集团手工原酒项目部(上海山月贸易有限公司),感谢葡道北京的场地支持——隶属澳洲Woolworth’s Liquor Group酒业集团旗下,拥有900多家国际酒庄品牌的授权正品。是北京Wine boutique中的佼佼者。

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澳大利亚葡萄酒大师班记录

 

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

 

澳大利亚葡萄酒近几年一直在中国市场稳居进口葡萄酒第二的位置(第一是法国)。

随着中澳自由贸易协定的签署,澳洲葡萄酒关税在四年内降为零。而这也激励了市场,在过去的一年(2015.4-2016.3),中国以出口额64%的增幅首次成为,仅次于美国的澳大利亚葡萄酒第二大海外市场。这和以澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局为代表的推广机构们在中国市场上的不懈努力,密不可分。尤其是每年不少场次的各类推广活动。

而刚刚过去的四月,澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局组织的年度路演就是各类推广活动的重中之重。而我也应邀参加了路演第一站,上海的大师班和酒展。

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提到这个大师班,光看酒单就知道澳洲人的诚意和大师班的分量,都是星光熠熠的大名庄顶尖之作,不乏像奔富葛兰许这样的澳洲顶级旗舰Fine wine。主讲的是兰顿分级(Langton’s Classification)的联合创始人,著名的葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW。

提到兰顿,要简单介绍一下,兰顿是澳洲规模最大的葡萄酒拍卖行,在过去的25年里,兰顿在澳洲二手交易市场中有着绝对的领先地位。 成立于1988年,总计拥有超过5000位的澳大利亚本国以及国际买家客户,每年通过拍卖提供超过120000批次的标的。兰顿已是整个澳大利亚精品葡萄酒市场的标杆。

另外,还有兰顿发布的【兰顿澳大利亚葡萄酒的分级体系-Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine】,最早是1990年发布第一版。这个体系是高度有影响力的,在最具有收藏价值的澳洲葡萄酒领域,是被国际上广泛认可的分级体系。

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Andrew Caillard作为这个分级体系的联合创始人,在现场介绍了这一体系的最新分级概况。

体系分三级:

Exceptional至尊级

最受追捧的葡萄酒,可谓澳大利亚市场的“一级庄葡萄酒”(最新一期共21款酒)。

Outstanding杰出级

澳大利亚葡萄酒质量的标杆之作,极受市场欢迎的葡萄酒(最新一期共53款酒)。

Excellent优秀级

在品质与市场需求量上均表现优异的葡萄酒(最新一期共65款酒)。

Andrew 还简单介绍了澳洲葡萄酒历史:

1788年开始就有移民带来葡萄藤,并开始种植葡萄。自1815年拿破仑滑铁卢战役后,葡萄藤开始规模引进澳洲,最早19世纪20年代是在Tasmania开始葡萄种植。1825年新南威尔士,1829年西澳,1834年维多利亚州,1837年南澳,1848年昆士兰州。1855年新南威尔士参加巴黎世博会,获得不少奖项,酒也被法国国王和英国女王收藏。

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葡萄酒大师班品鉴会记录(by 陆江):

Mc William‘s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Hunter Valley Semillon 2007(早采),Andrew说这款酒有50年的陈年实力。

新鲜,还有少量气泡,苹果,杏,少量蜂蜡,还能捕捉到凡士林和火石气息,重酒体,集中圆润,酸度极为强劲,贯穿,锋芒很露的状态,强大,可以经历很长时间陈年的打磨,回味悠长。

Yeringberg Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010(2万瓶产量)

黑莓,皮革,一丝动物皮毛,甘草,黑巧克力,中重酒体,集中度不错,单宁强,但细致优雅,完整骨架和酒体很好集成,酸度中强,活跃,纯净,回味长。

Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012

黑莓,黑巧克力,甘草,香料,细致的香气,中重酒体,酸度中强,单宁强但细致,收敛感明显,完整结构,回味长。

St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

黑醋栗,香料,桉树叶,重酒体,单宁强,收敛,天鹅绒般单宁比较厚实,细致,酸度中强,回味长。

Howard Park Abercrombie Margaret River and Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

黑莓,甜美气息,甘草,黑巧克力,辛香,一丝咖啡豆,重酒体,集中,单宁有力,完整结构,酸度中强,细致,很活跃,回味长。

Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011

檀香,香料,果味,重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁强,收敛明显,很干,回味长,感觉还比较封闭。

D’arenberg Dead Arm Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2012

香料,黑莓,皮革,重酒体,单宁强,厚实,收敛,酸度中强活跃,回味长,有烟熏和咖啡豆气息,一丝太妃糖。

Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz Nagambie lakes 2006

香料,黑莓,黑巧克力,烟草,重酒体,酸度中等略强,单宁强,细致,完整结构,回味长。

Dalwhinnie The Eagle Shiraz Pyrenees 2003

皮革,香料,烟草明显,重酒体,单宁强细腻,集中度很好,酸度中等略强,如丝绒般柔滑的口感,平衡,集成很好,回味长,后段酸度明显激活口感。

St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 2012 Barossa

香料,烟叶,黑莓,黑巧克力,重酒体,单宁强厚实,集中,酸度中强活跃,回味长,略有点封闭。

Langmeil Freedom Shiraz Barossa Valley 2009(1843年的低产老藤,Ancestor)

果味,香料,烘烤,重酒体,单宁强,收敛,酸度中强,活跃,复杂,有层次感,回味长。

Hardy‘s Eileen Hardy shiraz 2012 Mclaren Vale

烟叶,香料,檀香,重酒体,单宁强收敛厚实,活跃酸度,后段略微有点平坦,回味长,烟熏回味。

Penfolds grange shiraz 2009 South Australia

檀香,黑李子,果味明显,黑巧克力,重酒体,饱满集中,酸度中强,活跃,单宁有力,完整庞大的结构,柔滑细致,回味长,有一丝太妃糖气息。还有很强陈年潜力。

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An Updated Overview of the Chinese Wine Market (2015-2016)

Text: By Maxime Lu / 陆江

Published on ProwineChina.COM, Chinese version of PROWEIN.

In recent years, the Chinese wine market has witnessed dramatic changes, with transformative adjustments made in both major consumer groups and the sales model of wine merchants.

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The spending spree emerging in China in 2006-2007 culminated in early 2011 and then subsided. With the introduction of the policy for tightening spending on official overseas visits, official vehicles, and official hospitality in 2012, the country’s wine market rapidly entered the period of adjustment. Major consumer groups have changed from enterprises, institutions and government authorities to the public. Following the slump and stagnation in 2012-2014, the Chinese wine market bounced back in 2015.

Take imported wine as an example. In 2015, the volume of imported wine totaled 550 million liters, a 44.58% y-o-y increase, valued at US$ 2,039 million, a 34.30% y-o-y increase. Nonetheless, we should be cautiously optimistic about the high percentages. It should be reminded that the market was rather sluggish in the previous two years. Moreover, we should consider the following factors: replenishment following the clearing of stocks in the distribution area, purchase following the introduction of new capital, and of course market growth.

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Regarding origin countries of imported original wines in 2015, France ranked No.1. The volume of wines imported from the country totaled 167 million liters, an increase of 33.66%, valued at US$867 million, an increase of 41.25%. The average price was US$5.19/liter, increasing by 5.68% over the previous year. French wines accounted for 46.2% of China’s imported original wine market, still occupying a solid position. Australia ranked No.2. Thanks to lowered tariffs, the volume of wines imported from the country surged by 56.54%, with the import value soaring by 77.80%. Australian wines accounted for 23.4% of China’s imported original wine market. Chile gained a market share of 9.1%, ranking the third place in the list. Countries ranking No.4 to No. 10 are Spain, Italy, the United States, South Africa, Argentina, New Zealand and Germany.

With a market share of nearly 70% (in volume), domestic wines remained to be a leading player in the Chinese wine market in 2015. Changyu and GREAT WALL monopolized the domestic wine segment. Facing foreign competitors and increasingly mature consumers, leading domestic wineries doubled efforts to adjust the pricing system of their product lines, and further improved low price product lines with the highest sales volume in the mainstream market. In addition, these wineries purchased overseas wine chateaus and established cooperative relations with renowned international brands in a bid to enter the imported wine market, fully reflecting their ambition and vision for the future market. These wineries are expected to have more market moves in 2016. In another development, domestic wine markets in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou were severely hit in 2015. In wine markets in a number of tier-3 and tier-4 cities, nevertheless, domestic wines with wide brand influence and strong market operational capability will maintain a leading role over a certain period of time in spite of mounting challenges.

It should be mentioned that, in recent years, quite a few fine wine chateaus were founded in wine regions such as Ningxia, Xinjiang, Shanxi and Huailai. Wines made there were well reputed in domestic and international markets. These fine wine chateaus have boosted local consumers’ confidence in domestic wines and increased their knowledge and understanding of domestic wine regions. More and more big importers began to act as an agent of domestic fine wines. Market feedback shows that more industry resources will be utilized to promote Chinese wines in 2016.

As for market expansion and sales activities, the entire industry continued exploration efforts.

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B to C platforms, such as JD and Amazon, gave more support to direct-selling categories and merchants trading on the platforms so as to increase the conversion rate. These platforms have always been focusing on individual consumers, so they were not hit by the policy for tightening spending on official overseas visits, official vehicles, and official hospitality. Instead, these platforms developed swiftly along with the growth of the consumer market. According to sources from JD, the company’s revenue of wines in 2015 tripled from that in 2014, and the figure in January 2016 quadrupled from the same period of last year. Since the beginning of 2016, these leading platforms have been planning to enhance market expansion in tier-2, tier-3 and tier-4 cities and towns. They are gradually becoming the core platform of the wine market.

Once a hotspot in the capital market, vertical e-businesses have suffered from mounting pressure in operation. In the past one or two years, some of these e-businesses were acquired or merged, some began to sell multiple categories, and others faded away. Currently, the O to O mode in the wine industry is increasingly becoming a highlight in the capital market. By leveraging capital and the O to O mode, some wine merchants, such as jiuxian.com, 9bianli.com and 1919.cn, have realized rapid expansion. But both suppliers and salespeople consider such a mode and expansion controversial. However, for several leading O to O wine merchants, they will experience rapid expansion in 2016, with both bubbles and opportunities.

Meanwhile, the B to B mode has also taken shape in China’s wine industry. More and more e-businesses dealing wines have adopted the mode, such as wajiu.com and jiuxian.com.

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As for long-established wine merchants, they have been exploring new business models while continuing to develop traditional channels including restaurants, shopping malls and supermarkets. For instance, Pudao, the Chinese subsidiary of Australian retail giant Woolworths, is exploring the mode of wine boutiques to provide private customers with cost-effective fine wines and professional wine service. ASC has closed its expensive clubs providing services for private customers. The company has been increasing investment into e-commerce, enhancing cooperation with other e-commerce platforms, and lowering its profit margin and product prices. Aussino World Wines, ASC and other wine merchants are launching wine education and cultural promotion campaigns to improve customer affinity. These traditional wine merchants will continue transformation in 2016.

Regarding the overall development of the Chinese wine market in 2016, representative wineries gave basically positive feedback. They expected an increase rate of 15%-30%. We are looking forward to the new year with modest growth.

Source link: http://prowinechina.com/channels/138.html

中国最新葡萄酒销售市场概况(2015-2016)

文:陆江(Maxime LU)

(本文已发表于Prowine China,转载请标明出处和署名)

中国的葡萄酒市场,最近几年一直是处在大幅变动中,无论市场主要消费受众还是酒商销售模式都在发生变革性的调整。

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2006-2007年开始在中国逐渐兴起的这一轮葡萄酒消费风潮,到2011年初到达高潮开始有所减缓,而到了2012年的三公限制政策的推出,直接快速地使市场步入调整期。中国的葡萄酒市场迅速地从集团消费和对公消费等主力市场,转换成面向大众为主的个人消费市场。历经2012-2014年的市场大幅下跌和探底,2015年中国的葡萄酒市场则开始初露曙光。

以进口葡萄酒为例,2015年进口量为5.55亿升,数量同比增长44.58%;进口额为20.39亿美金,金额同比增长34.30%。但是这个增长比例要谨慎乐观,因为其中要考量到是前两年市场不景气,流通环节清库存后的补货,以及新资本进来后的进货,当然也包括市场增长部分。

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2015年原瓶进口葡萄酒的来源国,来自法国的葡萄酒排在首位,进口量1.67亿升,增长33.66%;进口额8.67亿美元,金额增长41.25%;均价为5.19美元/升,同比增加5.68%;法国酒占整个原瓶进口葡萄酒市场的46.2%,地位依旧稳固。第二位是有着降税利好的澳大利亚,进步很快,进口量增速达56.54%,进口额增速高达77.80%,约占原瓶进口葡萄酒市场的23.4%。第三位智利占市场份额的9.1%,第四到第十位的分别是西班牙,意大利,美国,南非,阿根廷,新西兰,德国。

国产葡萄酒在2015年仍然是中国葡萄酒市场的主导,占有近70%的市场份额(数量计),国产葡萄酒阵营是双寡头张裕和长城主导,在进口酒的竞争下,以及消费者的逐渐成熟,国产酒巨头们积极对产品线的定价体系进行调整,加强完善在主力市场销量最大的低价段的产品系列。还购买海外酒庄以及和国际知名品牌建立合作,直接介入进口酒市场,手笔不小,对未来市场的野心也不小,2016年相信他们会有更多市场动作。另外国产酒市场在北上广被冲击得相对明显,不过在广大三四线城市的葡萄酒市场,国产酒凭借强大的品牌积淀和市场运作能力,将继续在一定时期内保持着主导的市场地位,虽然面临的挑战也会逐渐增多。

需要特别提到的是,近年来在宁夏、新疆、山西和怀来等产区也崛起了不少精品葡萄酒庄,为国产葡萄酒在国内和国际市场上博得了不错的声誉。 这些精品酒庄开始带动了本土消费者对国产酒的品质信心,和对国内葡萄酒产区的认知和了解。越来越多的有实力的进口商也逐渐加入到代理国产精品葡萄酒的行列。从市场反馈的资讯来说,在2016年将会有更多行业资源投入到中国本土葡萄酒的推广中。

在市场拓展和销售方面,全行业都在继续探索推动中。

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B to C的平台商京东、亚马逊等都通过逐渐加大直营品类和完善对入驻商户的支持,来提升对平台大流量的转换率,他们因为一直是以个人消费客户为主,所以没有受到来自三公限制政策的负面影响,反而随着个人消费市场的增长得到快速发展。据京东相关负责人介绍,2015年京东葡萄酒业务收入达到2014年的3倍,2016年的一月份是去年同期收入的4倍。在2016年,这些大平台们纷纷在规划加强对二三四线城市乡镇的渗透,他们逐渐成为葡萄酒市场的核心平台。

原来资本市场热点的葡萄酒垂直电商模式在经营上压力越来越大,在过去的一两年内逐渐分化,被收购兼并,或是开始多品类经营,也有逐渐淡出视线。现在酒类行业O to O模式正成为资本市场追逐的焦点。部分酒商如酒仙网、酒便利、1919等通过资本的推动和O to O模式,实现规模的快速扩大。但这种模式和扩张在业内具有争议,无论来自于供货商还是销售领域的从业者,不过对于几家规模领先的O to O酒商来说,2016年会是继续急速扩张的一年,泡沫一定会有,机会也同时存在。

还有B to B模式也在中国的葡萄酒行业形成一定规模,有越来越多葡萄酒电商在介入这一领域,例如像挖酒网,酒仙网等。

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而老牌酒商则继续植根传统餐饮商超渠道外,也在努力进行探索和改变:如澳洲零售巨头Woolworths在华的子公司葡道在探索精品连锁零售门店(wine boutique)的模式,为私人客户提供高性价比的精品酒,以及专业葡萄酒服务;还有像ASC关闭原有为私人客户服务的高成本会所,加大电商方面的投入力度,以及加强和其它电商平台的合作,还主动调低利润率,降低产品价格;还有像富隆和ASC等通过葡萄酒教育和文化推广增加对客户的粘度等。2016年也会是这些传统酒商继续转型的一年。

对于2016年中国葡萄酒市场的整体发展,我们通过部分有代表性的葡萄酒企业的反馈来看,基本都认为是积极向好的,预计增幅在15%-30%之间。期待这温和增长的新的一年。

 

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 曾为Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛(Decanter Asia Wine Awards),意大利南部葡萄酒大赛(Puglia)、葡萄牙葡萄酒挑战大赛-Wines of Portugal Challenge(Lisboa)等国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委;美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,《葡萄酒在线》专栏撰稿人、《Decanter中文版-醇鉴中国》撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问。