万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列145活动总结“初夏黄酒局”

酒量我们是天生的,喝酒我们是认真的。在举杯之前要抱着尊敬的心情认真了解你面前这杯子里的液体才行。上周日俱乐部迎来了一堂绍兴黄酒课,,绍兴人陆江老师系统的讲解了黄酒基础知识,包括黄酒的历史、分类、保存方法、酿造工艺、麦曲(糖化、黄曲霉、红曲霉、黑曲霉、根霉等)以及其他各种相关知识。

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下次碰到自称酒龄长久经验丰富的酒友就可以坐下跟他聊聊:你知道制造绍兴酒必须使用鉴湖水吗?你知道2014著名黄酒品牌古越龙山的水门事件吗?你知道手工原酒和机器制酒的差别在哪里吗?你知道绍兴黄酒是中国第一个地理标志保护产品吗?你知道黄酒的发酵时间为什么比葡萄酒长那么多吗?你知道五年陈、十年陈的时间的确切含义吗?

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最后,你吃过陆江老师亲手煮的茴香豆么?两斤豆一颗不剩我会乱说?没有赶得及参加活动的小伙伴,请默默擦去你们的眼泪。

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从元红到加饭、善酿、香雪,甜度和复杂度逐级上升。同时尝试了陈皮焦糖味道,干净清爽的塔牌,和有马德拉和胶水气息,饮之难忘的古越龙山。最后又尝试了陆老师亲手分坛的20年私藏酒,精致圆润。至此我们也算是对黄酒有个框架的概念啦。

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以下为陆江老师的品酒笔记,仅供参考:

绍兴黄酒
元红
杏仁,香料,fino雪莉酒气息,糟香,中轻酒体,酸度中等,柔和简单,回味短,一丝焦糖气息。

加饭
杏仁,陈皮,香料,马德拉,中等酒体,酸度中等,简单,有一定集中度,微热感,回味短。

善酿
陈皮,甘草,微微酱油气息,中重酒体,酸度中等,圆润,简单,饱满,回味短,有焦糖味。

香雪
甘草,陈皮,烟熏,重酒体,酸度中等,圆润饱满,简单,回味中短,有烟熏,焦糖苦感。

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2012塔牌手工原酒
陈皮,香料,杏仁,果干,焦糖,中重酒体,酸度中等,有集中度,干净,有一定层次感,回味中长。

2008古越龙山手工原酒
马德拉陈年气息,胶水,辛辣,杏仁,陈土气息,中重酒体,酸度中强,有一定集中度,有层次感,平衡,活跃,回味中长。

20年私藏坛分酒
杏仁,香料,陈皮,焦糖,柚子,香气平和细腻,酸度中强,中重酒体,圆润柔和,凝缩,活跃平衡,有层次,回味长。

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最后的拍卖小环节,同样惊喜多多,看到小编心爱的苏玳和罕见的05年份Didier Dagueneau以及007香槟等等被抱走,各种羡慕,一起喝一起喝啊~~

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最后,感谢塔牌绍兴酒酿酒集团手工原酒项目部(上海山月贸易有限公司),感谢葡道北京的场地支持——隶属澳洲Woolworth’s Liquor Group酒业集团旗下,拥有900多家国际酒庄品牌的授权正品。是北京Wine boutique中的佼佼者。

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澳大利亚葡萄酒大师班记录

 

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

 

澳大利亚葡萄酒近几年一直在中国市场稳居进口葡萄酒第二的位置(第一是法国)。

随着中澳自由贸易协定的签署,澳洲葡萄酒关税在四年内降为零。而这也激励了市场,在过去的一年(2015.4-2016.3),中国以出口额64%的增幅首次成为,仅次于美国的澳大利亚葡萄酒第二大海外市场。这和以澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局为代表的推广机构们在中国市场上的不懈努力,密不可分。尤其是每年不少场次的各类推广活动。

而刚刚过去的四月,澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局组织的年度路演就是各类推广活动的重中之重。而我也应邀参加了路演第一站,上海的大师班和酒展。

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提到这个大师班,光看酒单就知道澳洲人的诚意和大师班的分量,都是星光熠熠的大名庄顶尖之作,不乏像奔富葛兰许这样的澳洲顶级旗舰Fine wine。主讲的是兰顿分级(Langton’s Classification)的联合创始人,著名的葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW。

提到兰顿,要简单介绍一下,兰顿是澳洲规模最大的葡萄酒拍卖行,在过去的25年里,兰顿在澳洲二手交易市场中有着绝对的领先地位。 成立于1988年,总计拥有超过5000位的澳大利亚本国以及国际买家客户,每年通过拍卖提供超过120000批次的标的。兰顿已是整个澳大利亚精品葡萄酒市场的标杆。

另外,还有兰顿发布的【兰顿澳大利亚葡萄酒的分级体系-Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine】,最早是1990年发布第一版。这个体系是高度有影响力的,在最具有收藏价值的澳洲葡萄酒领域,是被国际上广泛认可的分级体系。

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Andrew Caillard作为这个分级体系的联合创始人,在现场介绍了这一体系的最新分级概况。

体系分三级:

Exceptional至尊级

最受追捧的葡萄酒,可谓澳大利亚市场的“一级庄葡萄酒”(最新一期共21款酒)。

Outstanding杰出级

澳大利亚葡萄酒质量的标杆之作,极受市场欢迎的葡萄酒(最新一期共53款酒)。

Excellent优秀级

在品质与市场需求量上均表现优异的葡萄酒(最新一期共65款酒)。

Andrew 还简单介绍了澳洲葡萄酒历史:

1788年开始就有移民带来葡萄藤,并开始种植葡萄。自1815年拿破仑滑铁卢战役后,葡萄藤开始规模引进澳洲,最早19世纪20年代是在Tasmania开始葡萄种植。1825年新南威尔士,1829年西澳,1834年维多利亚州,1837年南澳,1848年昆士兰州。1855年新南威尔士参加巴黎世博会,获得不少奖项,酒也被法国国王和英国女王收藏。

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葡萄酒大师班品鉴会记录(by 陆江):

Mc William‘s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Hunter Valley Semillon 2007(早采),Andrew说这款酒有50年的陈年实力。

新鲜,还有少量气泡,苹果,杏,少量蜂蜡,还能捕捉到凡士林和火石气息,重酒体,集中圆润,酸度极为强劲,贯穿,锋芒很露的状态,强大,可以经历很长时间陈年的打磨,回味悠长。

Yeringberg Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010(2万瓶产量)

黑莓,皮革,一丝动物皮毛,甘草,黑巧克力,中重酒体,集中度不错,单宁强,但细致优雅,完整骨架和酒体很好集成,酸度中强,活跃,纯净,回味长。

Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012

黑莓,黑巧克力,甘草,香料,细致的香气,中重酒体,酸度中强,单宁强但细致,收敛感明显,完整结构,回味长。

St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

黑醋栗,香料,桉树叶,重酒体,单宁强,收敛,天鹅绒般单宁比较厚实,细致,酸度中强,回味长。

Howard Park Abercrombie Margaret River and Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

黑莓,甜美气息,甘草,黑巧克力,辛香,一丝咖啡豆,重酒体,集中,单宁有力,完整结构,酸度中强,细致,很活跃,回味长。

Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011

檀香,香料,果味,重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁强,收敛明显,很干,回味长,感觉还比较封闭。

D’arenberg Dead Arm Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2012

香料,黑莓,皮革,重酒体,单宁强,厚实,收敛,酸度中强活跃,回味长,有烟熏和咖啡豆气息,一丝太妃糖。

Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz Nagambie lakes 2006

香料,黑莓,黑巧克力,烟草,重酒体,酸度中等略强,单宁强,细致,完整结构,回味长。

Dalwhinnie The Eagle Shiraz Pyrenees 2003

皮革,香料,烟草明显,重酒体,单宁强细腻,集中度很好,酸度中等略强,如丝绒般柔滑的口感,平衡,集成很好,回味长,后段酸度明显激活口感。

St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 2012 Barossa

香料,烟叶,黑莓,黑巧克力,重酒体,单宁强厚实,集中,酸度中强活跃,回味长,略有点封闭。

Langmeil Freedom Shiraz Barossa Valley 2009(1843年的低产老藤,Ancestor)

果味,香料,烘烤,重酒体,单宁强,收敛,酸度中强,活跃,复杂,有层次感,回味长。

Hardy‘s Eileen Hardy shiraz 2012 Mclaren Vale

烟叶,香料,檀香,重酒体,单宁强收敛厚实,活跃酸度,后段略微有点平坦,回味长,烟熏回味。

Penfolds grange shiraz 2009 South Australia

檀香,黑李子,果味明显,黑巧克力,重酒体,饱满集中,酸度中强,活跃,单宁有力,完整庞大的结构,柔滑细致,回味长,有一丝太妃糖气息。还有很强陈年潜力。

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有关威士忌被问的最多的问题

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

被问过最多的关于威士忌的问题,整理如下:

波本是波本还是威士忌?

波本是波本,波本是威士忌,全名波本威士忌。跟干邑并没有脱离白兰地一样。

威士忌是个统称,下面包含各种幺蛾子命名法。波本,Rye(黑麦威士忌),加拿大威士忌,爱尔兰威士忌,苏格兰威士忌,和Sour Mash(酸麦芽威士忌?)都是。

波本都是肯塔基生产的吗?

波本老家在肯塔基没错。但只要按照法律规定的定义走,全美帝土地上发酵蒸馏出来的玉米威士忌都可以抬头挺胸得意洋洋地自称Bourbon。

杰克丹尼尔不是波本吗?

虽然JD的瓶子上Bourbon的B字都找不出来,但是严格以定义来说JD是波本(或者我们接地气的称之为美国特产玉米威士忌?)。一款酒需要严格依照当地法规进行生产才能标上相应的名称,但是。。。貌似没有任何强制规定按照这个流程生产的就一定要标啊。JD比波本多一步木炭过滤,这一步波本的生产流程里并没有要求。JD以此理由认定自己比波本高级,并独树一帜地自诩:“田纳西威士忌”。

威士忌9


苏格兰威士忌都是一股煤球味吗?

仔细观察苏格兰威士忌的定义。虽然非常严格,但是一个字都没提到泥炭。

当然,一定会有卫道士跳出来疾呼:没有烧炭味的威士忌,怎么好意思活在苏格兰!其实逃离艾雷终日的烟熏,不碰煤渣子味的酒厂比比皆是。

在此推荐给想要尝试下层层堆叠来自白垩纪问候的勇士……第一口泥煤建议不要从拉弗格开始,那感觉就像是夏令营的时候坐了个离篝火太近的倒霉位置,或者参加烟火大会的时候在岸边抬了头。下面也会提到的bowmore12是非常个人的推荐,性价比高到我只想说,哈利路亚~!

威士忌的保存和葡萄酒一样么?

比起金贵的葡萄酒,储存威士忌类似养仙人掌。有私人酒窖最理想,没有的话也无所谓,避光就好(即使不经受太阳光直射,间接反射光也造成酒质劣化),不是超过50度的撒哈拉就行。

10年份威士忌真的是在桶里放了10年么?

真的放了10年。甚至超过10年。

对于威士忌来说,原酒混合后的产物必须标注最年轻的原酒年份。比如常见的芝华士皇家18年,严密地说并不是酒龄18年,而是“18年以上”的威士忌。实际酒龄往往超出标注在瓶外的年份。

威士忌5

以下的几个问题是常常与大家争论的,仅为个人意见:

直饮才是王道?

标准答案还是且永远是:你觉得怎么好喝怎么喝。

直饮是王道,这句话有一定道理,尤其是往拉弗格里加屈臣氏苏打水的时候确实需要三思(三思过后还要加的那也是好样的)。

加水的目的对于一部分人来说是解锁威士忌酒液里的醇类和苯酚,活化香气(就好比,你要跟一个美丽的妹子/汉子共度良宵,先得让对方把衣服脱了。)。对于另一部分人则是降低浓度,避免酒精对味蕾的麻痹影响饮用的乐趣(脱完对方的衣服,再把自己的衣服脱了)。对于高浓度酒类(伏特加烧酒白兰地当然还有老白干)来说,在酒精的麻痹作用下很多人舌尖嗡嗡发麻,持续在此浓度下饮酒一段时间味蕾会自然罢工,吃啥啥不香喝啥啥没味。若你就是奔着买醉去那就无所谓了,只是闷一口響21未免就有点太过浪费。

如果谦逊一点的来讲,“最好”是个主观的事儿,没有所谓“最好的”饮用法。饮用时可以尝试依次反复加入一滴管的清水。第一次加入后如果还有麻痹感再加一管,直到感觉和恋人素肌相拥,温暖柔和。

生产年代越久越好么?

还是上次讨论过的问题,即使是同一蒸馏厂的麦芽威士忌,也因为制法,材料和熟成环境不同需要不同的熟成年数。早熟的活泼,慢熟的沉稳。主要看你喜欢少女还是喜欢人妻。至于出了桶之后的威士忌酒,主流看法不再会有什么瓶中熟成一说,不会往好了变了,放了10年的10年份威士忌你真的不能也就管它叫20年份威士忌了。

这里从不同角度补充一个例子。上文提到的清新锅灶味儿的泥煤Bowmore12。18和15年的价格大概是12的四倍,但如果让爱好者们挑,应该10个里面有9个会认为波摩12年份强于15和18。市售或各渠道的价格都和谐之极,值得拥有。

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单麦来自单桶?

苏格兰对单麦有命名规定但并没有对单桶进行法律定义(所以BV和GD钻了空子)。通常指的是,瓶内的威士忌来自同一酒桶,数量有限,喝完一瓶少一瓶的意思。对于苏格兰单麦,必须是麦芽为唯一原料、同厂、Vatting(混合酒液)后的结果仍然是单麦(Single Malt)。

按珍稀程度(我们没有说好喝程度哦,我们还是坚持好喝是个主观的事儿)排名,应该是单桶单麦,单麦,由不同蒸馏厂的single malt混合而成的pure malt纯麦,比如风靡市场的竹鹤(混合宫城峡和余市),再往下就是混合不同谷物的威士忌(blended whisky),不仅包括价格和谐的混合酒,也包括高端和響Japnese Harmony和JW的蓝标。

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An Updated Overview of the Chinese Wine Market (2015-2016)

Text: By Maxime Lu / 陆江

Published on ProwineChina.COM, Chinese version of PROWEIN.

In recent years, the Chinese wine market has witnessed dramatic changes, with transformative adjustments made in both major consumer groups and the sales model of wine merchants.

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The spending spree emerging in China in 2006-2007 culminated in early 2011 and then subsided. With the introduction of the policy for tightening spending on official overseas visits, official vehicles, and official hospitality in 2012, the country’s wine market rapidly entered the period of adjustment. Major consumer groups have changed from enterprises, institutions and government authorities to the public. Following the slump and stagnation in 2012-2014, the Chinese wine market bounced back in 2015.

Take imported wine as an example. In 2015, the volume of imported wine totaled 550 million liters, a 44.58% y-o-y increase, valued at US$ 2,039 million, a 34.30% y-o-y increase. Nonetheless, we should be cautiously optimistic about the high percentages. It should be reminded that the market was rather sluggish in the previous two years. Moreover, we should consider the following factors: replenishment following the clearing of stocks in the distribution area, purchase following the introduction of new capital, and of course market growth.

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Regarding origin countries of imported original wines in 2015, France ranked No.1. The volume of wines imported from the country totaled 167 million liters, an increase of 33.66%, valued at US$867 million, an increase of 41.25%. The average price was US$5.19/liter, increasing by 5.68% over the previous year. French wines accounted for 46.2% of China’s imported original wine market, still occupying a solid position. Australia ranked No.2. Thanks to lowered tariffs, the volume of wines imported from the country surged by 56.54%, with the import value soaring by 77.80%. Australian wines accounted for 23.4% of China’s imported original wine market. Chile gained a market share of 9.1%, ranking the third place in the list. Countries ranking No.4 to No. 10 are Spain, Italy, the United States, South Africa, Argentina, New Zealand and Germany.

With a market share of nearly 70% (in volume), domestic wines remained to be a leading player in the Chinese wine market in 2015. Changyu and GREAT WALL monopolized the domestic wine segment. Facing foreign competitors and increasingly mature consumers, leading domestic wineries doubled efforts to adjust the pricing system of their product lines, and further improved low price product lines with the highest sales volume in the mainstream market. In addition, these wineries purchased overseas wine chateaus and established cooperative relations with renowned international brands in a bid to enter the imported wine market, fully reflecting their ambition and vision for the future market. These wineries are expected to have more market moves in 2016. In another development, domestic wine markets in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou were severely hit in 2015. In wine markets in a number of tier-3 and tier-4 cities, nevertheless, domestic wines with wide brand influence and strong market operational capability will maintain a leading role over a certain period of time in spite of mounting challenges.

It should be mentioned that, in recent years, quite a few fine wine chateaus were founded in wine regions such as Ningxia, Xinjiang, Shanxi and Huailai. Wines made there were well reputed in domestic and international markets. These fine wine chateaus have boosted local consumers’ confidence in domestic wines and increased their knowledge and understanding of domestic wine regions. More and more big importers began to act as an agent of domestic fine wines. Market feedback shows that more industry resources will be utilized to promote Chinese wines in 2016.

As for market expansion and sales activities, the entire industry continued exploration efforts.

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B to C platforms, such as JD and Amazon, gave more support to direct-selling categories and merchants trading on the platforms so as to increase the conversion rate. These platforms have always been focusing on individual consumers, so they were not hit by the policy for tightening spending on official overseas visits, official vehicles, and official hospitality. Instead, these platforms developed swiftly along with the growth of the consumer market. According to sources from JD, the company’s revenue of wines in 2015 tripled from that in 2014, and the figure in January 2016 quadrupled from the same period of last year. Since the beginning of 2016, these leading platforms have been planning to enhance market expansion in tier-2, tier-3 and tier-4 cities and towns. They are gradually becoming the core platform of the wine market.

Once a hotspot in the capital market, vertical e-businesses have suffered from mounting pressure in operation. In the past one or two years, some of these e-businesses were acquired or merged, some began to sell multiple categories, and others faded away. Currently, the O to O mode in the wine industry is increasingly becoming a highlight in the capital market. By leveraging capital and the O to O mode, some wine merchants, such as jiuxian.com, 9bianli.com and 1919.cn, have realized rapid expansion. But both suppliers and salespeople consider such a mode and expansion controversial. However, for several leading O to O wine merchants, they will experience rapid expansion in 2016, with both bubbles and opportunities.

Meanwhile, the B to B mode has also taken shape in China’s wine industry. More and more e-businesses dealing wines have adopted the mode, such as wajiu.com and jiuxian.com.

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As for long-established wine merchants, they have been exploring new business models while continuing to develop traditional channels including restaurants, shopping malls and supermarkets. For instance, Pudao, the Chinese subsidiary of Australian retail giant Woolworths, is exploring the mode of wine boutiques to provide private customers with cost-effective fine wines and professional wine service. ASC has closed its expensive clubs providing services for private customers. The company has been increasing investment into e-commerce, enhancing cooperation with other e-commerce platforms, and lowering its profit margin and product prices. Aussino World Wines, ASC and other wine merchants are launching wine education and cultural promotion campaigns to improve customer affinity. These traditional wine merchants will continue transformation in 2016.

Regarding the overall development of the Chinese wine market in 2016, representative wineries gave basically positive feedback. They expected an increase rate of 15%-30%. We are looking forward to the new year with modest growth.

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