年末犒劳之顶级葡萄酒盲品

年末犒劳之顶级葡萄酒盲品

撰稿人/陆江(Maxime LU)

年末了,我们北京几个熟识的酒友攒的QINQIN品酒团,来了回重量级作品盲品,算是给一年辛苦的犒劳。

这次的主题也是阴差阳错,本来只是准备搞几款公认的Cult Wine尝尝,哪知加上好友朱利安赞助的一款意大利超级托斯卡纳,居然能凑出个意大利Cult Wine 2009年份水平品鉴主题。

这次的4款酒都是颇具分量。参与主题品鉴的三款意大利2009 Cult Wine是:潜力十足的TENUTA DI TRINORO 2009; 意大利葡萄酒名门Piero Antinori家的SOLAIA 2009,在酒届声名显赫; Frescobaldi家族旗下的MASSETO 2009,这款100%梅洛(Merlot)的超级Cult Wine,经常被称为意大利的Le Pin(法国最著名最贵的Cult Wine)。 额外非主题酒是西班牙大名鼎鼎的顶尖酒Vega Sicilia Unico 2000。这次是众星云集,顶尖实力的直面PK!

2013年1月21日,大家准时到达活动场地-葡道,每人四个杯子,经过严格专业的侍酒准备,还有每款酒的信息了解,盲品,讨论,总结。

平心而论,如果当时品饮我会选精致柔滑的第一款和第四款,其中第四款Unico的超级柔滑质地,复杂状态表现更胜一筹。但若是商业打分可能第二款和第三款的宏大风范会更占优, 我个人更喜欢第二款Solaia。

我的品鉴记录:

TENUTA DI TRINORO 2009

紫红色,黑莓,李子,咖啡豆,黑色清新果香为主,还能捕捉到无花果干,丁香花蕾气息,入口微甘,重酒体,单宁强,但细腻,大骨架,天鹅绒质感,果味充沛,酸度强,活跃,平衡,饱满,回味长,有烟熏,黑巧克力余味。注重保持果味主导。

 

SOLAIA 2009

深宝石红,黑醋栗,丁香花蕾,香草,少量皮革,动物皮毛味道,重酒体,饱满平滑,庞大结构,单宁强劲,细腻,厚天鹅绒,骨架大,酸中强活跃,口中有澳洲桉树叶,烟熏味道,平衡,回味长,有黑巧克力,丁香花蕾余味。 庞大有活力。

 

MASSETO 2009

深红泛紫,黑樱桃,少量意大利肠,黑巧克力,烟熏气息,重酒体,饱满厚重,雄壮庞大,单宁强劲收敛,细腻,酸度中强,平衡,口中烟熏和黑巧克力为主,还有黑色水果果味,平衡,回味长,有咖啡豆余味。桶味十足,重口味,100%梅洛的Huge wine!

 

Vega Sicilia UNICO 2000

深红色,边缘暗桔色,八角,肉桂等香料主导,还有咖啡豆,枯树叶气息;入口超级柔滑愉悦,重酒体,单宁强劲细腻,庞大的骨架,酸度中强活跃,平衡,细致,经典,口中还能捕捉到李子果味,回味长。

陆江美国产区行之加州篇1

陆江美国产区行之加州篇-1

撰稿人/陆江(Maxime LU)

虽然舌尖经历过不少美国的葡萄酒,甚至与美国驻华使馆农贸处和加州餐酒协会也曾有过数度合作,但是一直以来都没有机缘踏足过北美大陆。可要说真正了解一个产区,还是得去实地感受一下,是什么样的土壤、气候和人造就出当地特殊风味的葡萄酒,当地葡萄酒产区又是在什么样的人文历史环境下发展而成的。

日本成田机场(可能的转机站)

近年来欧洲申根旅游签证的繁琐和短期,美国对华签证的宽松,以及夏日美国西海岸产区的凉爽,使我6、7月的美国酒庄之旅成了顺理成章。这次酒庄之旅,行程覆盖了美国西海岸的主力产区,涉及到加州、俄勒冈州和华盛顿州。

 

机翼下的旧金山湾和大桥

加州是美国最大最重要的产酒区,产量甚至可以占到美国酒的90%以上。这次安排访问的就是加州最主力的两个产区,索诺马(Sonoma)和纳帕(Napa)。

由于美国酒庄大都是在偏远地带,很少有公共交通线路经过,所以最省时便利的葡萄酒旅游方式,就是自驾游。特别要提一下,美国是车轮上的国家,路网发达,汽油也比国内便宜,也不用担心油质问题。而且除了从旧金山市区往外走,过桥时收了一次数美金的过桥费外,自驾全程再也没有高速费或过路费。

旧金山唐人街

在旧金山市区提车后,设置好GPS路线,自驾不到一个小时就到了预定好的旅店,旅店所在的Santa Rosa小镇,正好位于索诺马郡(Sonoma County)的中心位置。由于索诺马和纳帕谷相邻,所以从Santa Rosa出发去Napa谷的酒庄,车程基本都能控制在1小时内,关键住店的费用要比纳帕谷合算不少。

 

旧金山的旁晚雾霭和起伏道路

本次加州酒庄之旅,行程安排了数家酒庄,纳帕(Napa)和索诺马(Sonoma)都有涉及,都是在各自产区颇具名望的代表酒庄。

纳帕谷(Napa Valley)
通常被认为是美国最著名的葡萄酒子产区,赤霞珠、夏多内等都是当地的主力葡萄品种,随着近几十年来的努力和产区葡萄酒的卓越表现,Napa谷在世界葡萄酒版图中已确立了其作为顶尖精品葡萄酒产区的地位。虽然纳帕谷产区产量仅占加州4%,可销售额却达到加州的20%。

山谷从南到北大约三十英里。纳帕谷的北部最窄仅为一英里宽,南端最宽的地方也只有五英里左右。西面和北面是梅亚卡玛斯山(Mayacamas Mountains),东面是瓦卡山(Vaca Mountains),南面是圣帕布罗湾(San Pablo bay)。

去纳帕谷的交通,在道路不拥堵的情况下,驾车一小时左右就能从旧金山到达纳帕谷东北部。纳帕谷由南到北横穿仅需不到一小时,建议留出2~3天左右参观酒庄和Napa镇,当然Napa谷还有上佳的美食可以寻觅。如离著名的鹿跃酒庄不远就有,米其林三星的French Laundry。此外SPA,户外运动,音乐,艺术,园艺,购物都是Napa旅游的可选项。

 

Sonoma郡的农夫市场-I(Farmer’s Market)

Sonoma郡的农夫市场-II(也是居民们家庭聚会的场合)

Wine Dinner of Yao Family Wines -姚明葡萄酒业品酒晚宴

 Wine Dinner of Yao Family Wines -姚明葡萄酒业品酒晚宴

陆江( Maxime LU) /万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部

2011年11月30日我应邀参加了在北京柏悦PARK  HYATT, 由姚家族酒业(Yao Family Wines)和其大陆独家承销商保乐力加(Pernod Ricard),以及万意宣传讯(Indigocomm)合作举办品酒晚宴。酿酒总监Tom Hinde也参加现场交流,回答各家媒体提问,席间品试到姚明赤霞珠干红Yao Ming Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,和姚家族珍藏赤霞珠Yao Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009.

 

虽然我对篮球不太了解,但还是知道,姚明作为中国最著名的国际篮球明星,通过征战美国NBA,已成为世界篮球界最耀眼的明星之一。现在在退役后的短短数月,姚明又一次刮起旋风,成功在美国加州建立“姚家族”酒业(Yao Family Wines),并推出以其名字命名的葡萄酒:姚明葡萄酒赤霞珠干红Yao Ming Cabernet Sauvignon 2009.  今年稍晚,还将会推出更高端的:姚家族珍藏“Yao Family Reserve 2009”约500箱(12/箱)。

 

这次姚明涉足美国NAPA葡萄酒业,也引起世界众多媒体关注,华尔街日报也发报道:《Yao Ming Courts China’s Wine Boom 》.http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970203764804577059394247295010.html?KEYWORDS=Yao+Ming+Wines  还有Wine Spectator也有相关报道。

 当然公布的大陆终端销售推荐价格是,Yao Ming Cabernet Sauvignon 2009为人民币1775元,实力更强的Yao Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2009价格还未公布,显然会更高。

姚家族酒业的酿酒总监Tom Hinde

虽然大陆葡萄酒零售价,一般需要考虑颇多的渠道开拓,品牌推广,市场杂费,分销分利等因素,再加上进关48.2%的税等。不过价格推出还是引发多方争议。综合酒的内在实力和姚明的品牌附加值,最终市场表现,还是要拭目以待。

为了配合推广姚明酒业还发布网站 www.yaofamilywines.com

葡萄原料出产的葡萄藤年龄平均15年。小型不锈钢温控桶。人工筛选除梗。不经过滤直接装瓶。

葡萄原料来自NAPA谷南北部,葡萄园分布:

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard ,位于Vaca山脉,选取6.9公顷

Tourmaline Vineyard,位于Coombsville和Tulocay,选取3.4公顷

Circle S Vineyard,位于海拔427米的Atlas山峰。选取3.2公顷。

Broken Rock Vineyard,位于Soda峡谷的陡峭山坡。选取了3.7公顷。

Silverado Hill Vineyard,位于Oak Noll地区的Yountville,选取了1.3公顷。

Wollack Vineyard,位于NAPA谷腹地的St Helena地区,选取了1.1公顷。

 下面是品鉴晚宴时两款酒的实际表现。

姚明赤霞珠干红2009-Yao Ming Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,

深紫红色;芬芳,紫罗兰,黑醋栗,蓝莓,甘草,烟熏,还有葡萄干,山楂花以及西梅的气息;入口后果味充盈,中重酒体,单宁较细腻,力量强劲,收敛,酸度中强,活跃清新,结构略有封闭,雅致;回味长,有烟熏和烘烤的咖啡豆味道。整体骨架突出,虽然并不瘦弱,但总觉得在饱满些会更好。赤霞珠82%,品丽珠7%,梅洛8%,小味儿多3%。波尔多左岸调配。总体表现而言,还算在预期范围内,当然姚明的品牌附加值肯定会有相当比例。发酵前有5~7天冷浸提,18个月橡木桶培养,100%法国桶,65%新桶。酒精14.2%。


姚家族珍藏赤霞珠干红2009-Yao Ming Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,

深紫红色,有李子干,雪茄盒,烟熏,皮革,烘焙咖啡豆,香气略内敛精致;重酒体,饱满,很好的的集中度,平衡,结构庞大,单宁细腻有力,层级发力,酸度中强,有较好层次感;回味悠长;有相当不错的整体平衡感!虽是波尔多左岸调配,但整体还是呈现新世界风格,当然也不失雅致。橡木味到还有待岁月更好整合。

听酿酒师Tom Hinde的解释说,前面姚明赤霞珠相当于二等庄的话,这款就是一等庄。品鉴后,实力差异的确表现相符。

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目音频

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目(首席葡萄酒顾问陆江)

Wineonline Wine School  –  Wineonline Wine Club

音频点击: CRI-Wineonline wine club

(China Now!)Wine-tasting classes popular in Beijing 

Anchor:

How much knowledge do you know about wine? Can you tell the difference between wines from different places? Do you know your manners when drinking wine in various social situations? More and more Chinese people, especially white collars, are taking wine training classes not only for better networking but also to enjoy the rich culture of wine.

Du Lijun has more.

Reporter:

(Ambience: Teacher’s talking and students’ discussion)

This is a wine training class of Wine Online Culture, a company that conducts wine-tasting courses and promotes wine culture in Beijing. After learning the typical characters of wines produced from Spain and America, the teacher asks students to sip some of them and then to describe the different tastes.

Xu Xinrui, who is attending the training class for the first time, is very interested in wine. She said two years ago she knew nothing about the wine, but now knowledge of wine means a lot to her.

[SB1, Xu, in Chinese]

“I am working for a magazine specializing in alcoholic drinks. Due to this, I need to learn as much as I can about them, and I’ve found out wine is getting more and more popular among Chinese people. It’s a social fashion. I need to know wine in a professional way. I feel good in the class.”

Xu says at the beginning she just wanted to increase her knowledge about wine. After trying the wine in some small sips, she fell in love with it.

Unlike European countries, China historically didn’t have a wine-drinking tradition. Wine is a comparatively new thing in China.

Lu Jiang, chief wine advisor of Wine Online Culture Company, says the original idea of organizing wine training classes was to help those who are in need of wine knowledge. Most of his clients are hotels’ service staffers or people who want to become a wine taster.

But now things have changed; many ordinary people come to his class. They believe wine can help them become more sociable. At the same time, they also want to discover the real charm of wine.

[SB, Lu, in Chinese]
“Wine itself has a rich culture. During our two-day class you can only scratch the surface. What I would like to do is to introduce wine culture to each one of my students. I open the door for them to discover the wine. I myself think wine has its own charming taste. In social situations, wine is a symbol of being elegant and graceful. That is also the reason which explains why wine has become increasingly trendy in China, especially among the middle class.”

Zhao Hang became the fan of wine in 2006. He says since the very beginning he knew he made a very smart choice.

[SB3, Zhao, in Chinese]

“I love it. Five years ago I just graduated from the college to start my first job. And I thought I needed some new interests in my life. I found wine. I chose it because I thought wine contained a lot of Western culture. Through wine I can learn about Western countries. Now I am proud of my wine knowledge – its benefits for my social connection is just one side. What is more important is that I’ve discovered the true spirit of wine.”

(Ambience of drinking wine)

The latest figures show that the volume of wine consumed in China doubled from 2005 and 2009. And during this period, some amateurs become professional.

Chen Weiran, who is now an assistant of Lu Jiang, says wine has brought her a totally new life.

[SB4, Chen, in Chinese]

“I fell in love wine at the first taste. I like all kinds of wine. Sometimes only seeing wine without drinking it will make me happy. I enjoy the tastes of different wines and the culture of them. Wine has become an integral part in my life. Before becoming an assistant I was working in the IT field. Now instead of facing all those boring charts and diagrams, tasting the different flavors of wine has helped me rediscover the beauty of life.”

For whatever reason people start to drink wine, many of them are becoming interested in it and eventually are discovering the glamour of wine.

For CRI, I’m Du Lijun.