经过多年艰难不懈的努力，继干邑、纳帕、香槟、威士忌之后，法国波尔多葡萄酒行业委员会向中国申请波尔多（Bordeaux）在中华人民共和国境内地理标志产品（GI）保护最终得到了确切回复。于6月下旬国家质检总局颁布了第75号法案，通过了关于波尔多地理标志产品保护的公告，地理标志产品制度的实施，主要是为了打击假冒伪劣产品的泛滥。这无疑是我国葡萄酒市场逐渐规范化又一重要举措。公告全文如下：
（2015年第75号）
王智慧
这个6月万欧兰俱乐部可说是非常欢乐：上下两期阿根廷品酒会，包括陆江老师的阿根廷概况讲座、趣味拍卖以及重头戏36款阿根廷葡萄酒的盲品打分. 其中我们第一期 (6月14日) 的主题是阿根廷主力产区门多萨 (产量占全国产量的70%) 的品鉴, 共17款酒. 第二期（6月22日）则旨在感受阿根廷的地域多样性和品种多样性, 共19款酒, 品种包括白葡萄Torrontes，红葡萄黑皮诺（Pinot Noir），名厂顶级马尔贝克（Malbec），波尔多调配，赤霞珠（Cabernet Sauvignon）和西拉（Syrah）等。
The whole June Wineonline club is immersed in a joyful atmosphere with two Argentina tastings. The whole precedure included Lu Jiang’s Argentina Wine Lecture, entertained auction and 36 wines blind tasting. In the first tasting on 14th June we focused on Mendoza region（which takes a 70% of the whole national output）and tasted 17 bottles。In the second round （22nd, June）we were trying to feel and learn the diversity of Argentina regions and virieties。We tasted 19 selected bottles in all including Torrontes，Pinot Noir，Malbec，Bordeaux Blend，100% Cabernet Sauvignon，Syrah and so on。
这36款都是在中国市场上能够找到，具有代表性的中高端水准的葡萄酒。我们在惊讶阿根廷实力不俗，风格多样的同时，也以不受干扰的盲品形式给出了自己心目中合适的分数。 我们的会员虽非专家，但都是有一定理论基础的葡萄酒爱好者以及一些从业者，相信这是一份能够真正代表大众审美的打分结果。
The 36 models mentioned above are representatives of Argentina middle-to-high-end wines and can be all found on the Chinese market. Surprised by their strong performance and diverse styles, meanwhile we managed to score the product appropriately by blind tasting. Our members, though not experts, are wine lovers and practitioners with theoretical basis of wine knowledge. We believe this scoring would be a true representative of the public aesthetic.
除个别氧化外，这组阿根廷的酒整体品质可说非常不错, 平均得分都在86以上，作出取舍也十分艰难。我们的统计方式是将陆江老师的打分和俱乐部会员的投票相结合，最终统计出五款平均得分在90以上的第一梯队。具体如下, 排名不分先后：
Except one bottle oxidized，the whole Argentina wine group behaves impressively with an average score above 86. It’s hard for you to point a favorite one. We balanced the scores given by Lu Jiang and our members, and finally calculated out our top five with above-90-scores. They are listed as following with a random order:
Trivento Eolo Malbec 2008
陆江的品鉴记录：甜香料，雪茄盒，黑巧克力，重酒体，单宁成熟细腻，结构完整，酸度中强，回味长。
Tasting notes: Spicy, cigar case, dark chocolate, full body, ripe and re-fined tannis，complete structure，Medium plus acidity，long length。
关于Trivento酒庄：
在中国的官方名称是“风之语酒庄”，始建于1996年。Trivento的释义是三股风，它们的名字是Polar、 Zonda 和Sudestada，共同吹过门多萨阳光普照的、干旱贫瘠的土地。Trivento目前拥有八个精选葡萄园，都位于门多萨地区最好的葡萄种植区。它是全球知名度较高的阿根廷葡萄酒品牌之一。
The history of Trivento begins in 1996. TRIVENTO means three winds: The Polar, Zonda and Sudestada winds blow across the sunny and arid land of Mendoza. The collection of terroirs includes eight vineyards located in the main winegrowing areas of Mendoza。 It has become the most diversely distributed Argentine wine brand in the world。
1884 president’s blend 2009
陆江的品鉴记录：湿枯树叶，煮甜菜，皮革，甜香料，咖啡豆，重酒体，饱满柔滑，酸度中强，单宁强，收敛，结构完整，回味长。
Tasting Notes：wet and dead leaves，boiled beet，leather，spicy，coffee，high body，full and smooth，medium plus acidity，high tannin， astringent，complete structure，long length。
关于嘎贡酒庄
门多萨从未间断的经营着的最古老的酒庄之一，成立于1884年，酒庄名称即为创始人的名字。1993年Nicolas Catena收购了酒庄并将其打造成阿根廷的顶尖酒商之一。酒庄同名马尔贝克深受庇隆总统与其夫人的喜爱，并且频繁地把它用来宴请各国来访贵宾，更被赐名为“总统之选”。
Bodegas Escorihuela Gascon is one of the oldest continually running winery, established in 1884 by Don Miguel Escorihuela Gascón. In 1993 Nicolas Catena bought the company and began to make it one of the leading wineries in Argentina. A Malbec who has the same name as the winery is one of the favorites of President Kirchner and his wife. They frequently use it to treat visiting dignitaries and name it “President’ blend ”.
Gauchezco plata gran reserva malbec 2010
陆江的品鉴记录：黑巧克力，雪茄，黑莓，香料，完整庞大，单宁强劲细腻，酸度强，平衡，回味长。
Tasting Note: Dark Chocolate, Cigar, blackberry, spicy, complete structure, strong but elegant tannin, balanced, long length.
关于Gauchezco 酒庄
Gauchezco 成立于1881年，主要集中在Maipu、门多萨的Uco Valley和Cafayate地区, 矢志酿造最能诠释门多萨风土的葡萄酒。目前由Anesi家族所有。
Gauchezco founed its legendary vineyard in 1881 and focused in the principle regions of Argentina: Maipuand the Uco Valley in Mendoza Povince & Cafayate in Salta Province，with the aim to reach the highest expression of the terroir of Mendoza。It is owned by Anesi family。
Alzamora malbec 2011
陆江的品鉴记录：甜香料，咖啡豆，雪茄盒，重酒体，集中，平滑，单宁强，成熟细致完整，酸度中强，回味长。
Tasting Note：spicy, coffee, cigar, high body, concentrated, smooth, high tannin, ripe and fine tannin, medium plus acidity, long length.
关于卡萨蒙特酒庄
位于阿根廷的圣胡安（San Juan）河流沿岸，海平面700米以上。是一家始建于1992年的年轻酒庄，拥有160公顷葡萄园。 一直由西班牙移民来的蒙特家族负责经营管理。酒庄将圣胡安那种当代人很少见的酿酒热情中的传统和高贵艺术性的结合在一起。
Casa Montes lies on the banks of the San Juan River, 700 meters above sea level。It’s a young winery dated back to 1992 with 160 hectares of vineyards。Don Fransisco Montes，an immigrant from Andalucia, Spain，founded it and keep running it till now。Casa Montes Winery-Vineyards artfully blends the nobility and tradition of a San Juan who produce wines with a passion rarely seen today.
Finca piedras andinas malbec 2011
陆江的品鉴记录：黑巧克力，雪茄盒，香料，黑莓，咖啡豆，重酒体，单宁强，收敛有力，结构庞大，集中，酸度中等，平滑，回味长，果酱，烟熏余味。
Tasting Notes：dark chocolate, cigar, spicy, blackberry, coffee, high body, high tannin, astringent and powerful, a huge structure, concetrated, medium plus acidity, smooth, long length, jammy, with smoked finish.
关于Finca piedras andinas酒庄
在巍峨的科顿德普拉塔山脉包围下，壮丽的安第斯山脉提供了极佳的气候和适合种植葡萄的气候温度。酒庄位于门多萨省的中西部，肥沃的山谷里，深谷、高山、河流、湖泊、加上果园和葡萄园, 形成了一幅最美的风景画。
The is surrounded by the peaks of Cordón del Plata and escorted by the magnificent Andean mountain range, which offers an exceptional climate and provides the right wide temperature range, which helps in the growth of vines. It is located in the southwest of Mendoza。A picturesque and fertile valley that captivates and dazzles with its natural charms such as valleys, mountains, streams, lakes, fruit orchards and vineyards。
撰文：陆江 编辑：王智慧
我作为葡萄酒收藏顾问，已经快10个年头，帮私人或是企业在世界各地不同渠道搜罗葡萄酒，其中拍卖也是我搜酒的重要途径之一。平时主要接触的是佳士得、苏富比等国际化程度高的拍卖行，不过随着葡萄酒文化的快速推广，越来越多的爱好者逐渐把喜好从以前单一的法国产区，开始扩展到世界各地不同风格的产区。我的目标也开始从国际大拍卖行延展到一些区域拍卖大行。
随着中澳自由贸易协定的签署，澳洲葡萄酒税将在未来4年内将至零关税。而且近年来澳洲葡萄酒局在华的卖力推介，澳洲葡萄酒已在中国市场稳居第二的位置（第一是法国），这也造就了不少澳洲葡萄酒的忠实拥趸。所以这两天我特意采访了澳洲，乃至南半球最大的精品酒拍卖行-兰顿（Langton’s）的内容与传播经理Samuel Burridge。希望通过我的采访文，让大家对区域大拍卖行能窥豹一斑，也许也能成为大陆买家淘酒的一条新途径。
1.我（陆江）：中国买家对于澳洲拍卖信息相对不是那么了解，可以简单的介绍一下澳洲兰顿拍卖的现状和它在澳洲拍卖界的地位么？
Samuel Burridge：兰顿是澳洲规模最大的葡萄酒拍卖行，在过去的25年里，兰顿在澳洲二手交易市场中有着绝对的领先地位。 成立于1988年，总计拥有超过5000位的澳大利亚本国以及国际买家客户，每年通过拍卖提供超过120000批次的标的。从波尔多和勃艮第的顶尖酒，到引领奔富（Penfolds）精品酒市场，兰顿已是整个澳大利亚精品葡萄酒市场的标杆。另外，还有兰顿发布的【兰顿澳大利亚葡萄酒的分级体系-Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine】，去年2014年，刚刚庆祝了兰顿体系发布25周年。这个体系是高度有影响力的，在最具有收藏价值的澳洲葡萄酒领域，是被国际上广泛认可的分级体系。
除此之外，对于拍卖业务的补充，兰顿也有精品酒中介，在线商店，以及酒庄直购业务。
2.我（陆江）：如果中国买家也想参与，可以通过什么方式参与拍卖？ 对于买家，拍卖后的物流环节是比较头疼的，兰顿是否会协助买家提供相关解决方案？
Samuel Burridge：对于中国买家，参与方式很简单。因为我们的拍卖业务已经完全上线，所以只需要登陆网站： www.langtons.com.au 就可以直接在线参与拍卖。对于第二个问题，在协助国际客户方面，我们已有丰富的经验，有很久的合作历史。我们会尽力协助客户，最大可能地满足竞拍者的要求。我们的客户服务部门会联络每一位国际客户，来探讨可能的解决方案。
3.我（陆江）：相较之下，中国大陆买家的购买热点集中于波尔多和勃艮第顶级酒庄、香槟、以及近年来热门起来的意大利酒。那么在兰顿拍卖中，澳洲买家会对那些类型的葡萄酒表现出更多的兴趣和倾向性？
Samuel Burridge：澳洲买家的口味和需求一直在变化和发展。像勃艮第和波尔多将会一直是热点，然而奔富（Penfolds）系的精品酒和兰顿分级体系里的其它20款顶级酒一直在拍卖中占有主导份额。 此外我们的买家对大瓶装葡萄酒和香槟也有稳定的需求。
4. 我（陆江）：在兰顿拍卖澳洲酒的比重会占到多少,其他产区酒的大概比例？
Samuel Burridge：澳洲酒能占 66% 的主导份额，波尔多的红葡萄酒约占11%，勃艮第红葡萄酒占6%，勃艮第白葡萄酒占2%，大瓶装能占7%，意大利占4%，香槟占2%，除此之外剩余品种占2%。
采访完Samuel Burridge，我大致看了一下兰顿最新的拍卖信息，本月25日（2015年6月25日）截拍，有两个主题：【勃艮第珍品回顾拍卖-Finest Burgundy Retrospective Auction】和【经典奔富年度拍卖-Annual Classic Penfolds】。
- 【勃艮第珍品回顾拍卖-Finest Burgundy Retrospective Auction】
包括了见证过百年岁月的勃艮第顶级珍藏——1919年的罗曼尼康帝（Romanee Conti）. 拍卖价格预计为50,000澳元。它是Langton’s“勃艮第珍品回顾”主题的核心。这1919年份的珍贵佳酿是由罗曼尼康帝（Romanée Conti）酒庄于70年代供给它的澳洲进口商，一直被小心收藏，仍然保持着上佳状态。
本场拍卖的亮点汇总：
1919 Domaine de La Romanee Conti, Romanee Conti – “杰出年份” Michael Broadbent.
1990 Domaine de La Romanee Conti, La Tache – 罗伯特派克满分酒RP100
1999 Domaine de La Romanee Conti, La Tache , magnum – “来自上帝的礼物” – Clive Coates
1985 Domaine de La Romanee Conti, La Tache
2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau – 2009 一个卓越的年份
1982 Henri Jayer Cros Parantoux, Vosne Romanee
1978 Domaine Leroy, Clos Vougeot
-【经典奔富年度拍卖-Annual Classic Penfolds】
有着一整套让所有收藏者和爱好者都为之心动的整套奔富葛兰许（Penfolds Grange），从1951年的尝试性年份直到2010年发布的满分酒。预计拍卖价格在17万澳元 和 23万澳元之间。
本场拍卖的亮点汇总：
Penfolds Bin Grange Shiraz, South Australia – 全套从 1951 到 2010 和全套双瓶装。 单瓶的试验年份1951和1954.
Penfolds Grange Imperials ：1975, 1985 & 2008
Penfolds Bin S6 Grandfather Port, Barossa Valley, 1945
Penfolds 5 Star Club Tawny Port, South Australia, 1956
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, South Australia, 1971, 1986, 1990, 1996, 1998
Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia, 1990, 1996, 1998, 2005, 2008
Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet-Kalimna Shiraz, 2004
Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia, 1979, 1982, 1986, 1990, 1996, 1998, 2008
Penfolds Bin 90A Cabernet Shiraz, Coonawarra-Barossa Valley, 1990
Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz, South Australia, 1969, 1975, 1986,1998
欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】，关注我们公众号，我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点，还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。
陆江（Maxime LU）
– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委，独立酒评人，美食美酒旅游类撰稿人，葡萄酒行业咨询顾问，资深葡萄酒和烈酒收藏顾问，万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师
王智慧（Serien WANG）
– 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者，《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监，万欧兰葡萄酒教育葡萄酒讲师
Photo and Text : Maxime LU
In recent years, policy to clampdown gifting and ostentatious display of wealth among officials, along with decelerated growth of Chinese economy has sent Chinese wine market into trough period. In a different perspective however, it also signals opportunities for return of a much healthy,amorepersonal- consumption oriented wine market. Such transition has promoted domestic wine industry to be explored and try new market model. Foreign wine makers and wine regionassociations have found out the capital that they invested in brand promotion didn’t bring satisfactory result in recent years. Adjusting strategies and adopting more effective measures, effectively increasing brand awareness are many wine industry business objectives, here are a few points that need special attention:
1.Make sure your brand image isheard as widely as possible.
Paying attention to the propagation accuracy and diversity is one of the keys. Organizers invest time, manpower and material resources to host a perfect dinner or tasting event, but often reluctant to invest more resources and efforts on the propagation. Without enough exposure to propagate the brand image expressed by these events adequately, nor do enough distribution channels to let target audiences to understand your promotion campaign, it is undoubtedly getting half the result for the same effort. Increasing your brand activities exposures as much as possible is the most important part, it doesn’t necessarily means you have to invest a large sum of budget. By choosing a flexible promotion model and correct channels which can achieve high rate of dissemination, your promotion activity can achieve effects of multiple promotion campaigns.
2.Select the effective brandcommunication channels.
Choosing traditional media with precise target audience such as paper magazines and books, or faster spreading and higher flexibility media such as websites, APP,public WeChat channel, but also from included self-published media like blog,Weibo and Circle of Friends of WeChat Channel. As the whole society has entered the age of Multi-media, business must have a clear understanding and enough analysis on: their main target audience, considerations of timeliness, channel efficiency and coverage, as well as the cost of each delivery channel. As for the traditional paper media whose influences have been weakened gradually, one must take into account the reality of its circulation and delivery site, compared to this, wine books have even narrower distribution.
Now let us move to self-publishing media.In order to attract more original contents, a lot of major platforms have endowed wider distribution of its content via multidevice/ OS friendly platform, such as PCfriendly, mobile browser friendly and app. In this era where a friend gathering evolved into a much-maligned scene where everyone bows to play their mobiles, the visitor volume of a rising self-publishing media on PC and mobile browser views may not be high, but the visitors volume on its related channel on their mobile apps platform is usually rather impressive while being more accurate at the same time. These distribution channels have a better dissemination of results, on the other hand, the price-efficiency of releasing news with self-publishing media at this stage is not bad at all.
3.Comprehensive considerationand choosing flexible way to promote.
Trainings, lectures, wine exhibitions are common ways to promote but mainly limited to the wine industry professionals only. In addition, one can leverage with using the Chamber of Commerce or association to represent the overall image of a wine producing region, selecting high traffic supermarkets, shopping malls, organic markets to carry out wine culture themed festivals, or even promote experient ial market ing in the now personal-consumption dominated market. For example, most of the Chilean wine are suitable for everyday drinking, they are easy to resonate with their fruit & sweet spices aroma as the leading aroma, easy to drink, soft tannins, easy to access and higher acceptance to primary consumers, are particularly suitable for this type of experiential marketing, coupled with the Chilean wine price advantage, it can directly and efficiently attract to customers.
2015 will be the year of recovery for the wine market, although not necessarily a substantial growth, but judging the data from the past few months and feedbacks from vintners of different scale, we are optimistic about this year’s rebound. In the past two years, Chinese wine industry has invested heavily to popularize and promote the wine culture and it has achieved initial success, more and more consumers who have been purchasing power of wine began to understand the basic wine knowledge. Some consumers who are interested in wine have even equipped themselves with advanced wine knowledge, and gradually developed themselves as opinion leaders in their own social circles.
Demand of China’s personal-consumption market also grows vigorously in market cultivation and wine culture education&promotion. At the present, it is a critical time for wine-producing countries, like Chile, to further open up a new prospect in the Chinese market. Stable quality, suitable taste for the market, the tariff gimmick, these should be anenduring promotion campaign instead of several intensive period of promotion activities. You do not have to burn money to carry out a largescale activities, as long as you rely on the industry associations or chambers of commerce that can easily win public trust, you can just cyclically carry out some small but propagation-effect oriented activities. This doesn’t need a lot of money but precise positioning, appropriate and flexible pattern, and strategies that suits the status quo for the Chinese market. Currently the major producing countries are actively promoting to seize market share in China, if not being aggressive at the moment, one will eventually fall behind and cede out the market one has won.