Michel Rolland誓言要让Chateau Figeac进入St Emilion顶级酒之列
– Michel Rolland受聘为飞卓酒庄（Chateau Figeac）酿酒顾问

陆江（Maxime LU)/编译                Panos Kakaviatos（Decanter）/文   周五2013年3月29日

国际著名的葡萄酒酿酒顾问米歇尔·罗兰（Michel Rolland）已经签署了一份合同，为Chateau Figeac提供咨询服务。 他宣称他的目标是将Chateau Figeac 从现在的premier grand cru Classe “B”升级到众人瞩目的premier grand cru Classe“A”。编者特别提一下，米歇尔·罗兰（Michel Rolland）同时也是中国的大型葡萄酒公司中粮集团（长城）的酿酒顾问。

michel rolland

陆江简述事件背景：

【波尔多右岸的圣艾美侬（Saint Emilion）产区分级体系分三等：由高至低依次是：Premier Grand Cru Classe A（一级A等酒庄）；Premier Grand Cru Classe B（一级B等酒庄）；Grand Cru Classe（列级酒庄）。】

去年2012年进行了最新一次修订，一级A等酒庄由原来的2家增加到4家。在圣艾美侬（Saint Emilion）产区，只有入列一级A等酒庄才会被认为是波尔多真正的顶级酒庄。而这次历史悠久口碑极佳的无冕之王Figeac无缘晋级，依旧是一级B等酒庄，对于酒庄的业主来说是个不小的打击。

“停留在B等不是我的目标。”罗兰说。Chateau Figeac的发言人 Cecile Routurier证实了罗兰在数天前签订了该顾问合同。

尽管Chateau Figeac没有透露合同更多细节，罗兰告诉Decanter，他是受酒庄庄主Marie-France Manoncourt的邀请来为酒庄做咨询，Marie-France Manoncourt 正是已故前任庄主Thierry Manoncourt的妻子。

采访记者没能联系上Manoncourt夫人，而酒庄的联合庄主Manoncourt夫波尔度葡萄酒传统风格向市场低头人的女婿Eric d’Aramon，他也不想就罗兰在酒庄里担当的角色做任何评论。

罗兰说，他很高兴能和Chateau Figeac合作，在波尔多右岸做咨询，可能相对比南美或南非将“更容易些”，“如果少遇到奇特问题的话。”

他说，他的目标，是让酒庄成为一级A等。“我们将一起工作一年，看看结果如何，”他说到。关于具体的合同金额，他没有透露。

在去年就开始运作修订的最新版Saint Emilion分级体系中，Chateau Figeac没有升级为1等A级，这让大部分酒庄的业主感到失望。而Chateau Angelus 和 Chateau Pavie则成功晋级到一级A等，而这两家正是由米歇尔·罗兰（Michel Rolland）提供咨询服务。

罗兰说：“在未来几周内，他将列出具体要做的工作安排，”他还特别提到：“我们将挑选成熟的葡萄，并用最恰当的方式进行酿制。”

他说，他期待与酒庄技术总监Frederic Faye一起合作,“这是一位我很了解的年轻人。”

当被问及他将会给酒庄的酒带来哪些风格变化，罗兰说，他不喜欢用“让酒变得更好”这种表达，他更愿意用“向前发展”这个词。

在社会化媒体上，世界各地的葡萄酒爱好者表示惊讶，甚至沮丧，因为Figeac以其传统风格而著称。而即将聘用的米希尔罗兰（Michel Rolland），他是以酿造现代风格的葡萄酒而闻名。

罗兰说，“如果传统意味着停留在一级B等的话，那不会是我的目标。”

编译新闻出处：http://www.wineonline.cn/news2013-03-30.htm

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Rolland vows to take Figeac into St Emilion premier league

Friday 29 March 2013  by Panos Kakaviatos / Decanter

International consultant Michel Rolland has signed a contract to consult at Château Figeac – with the stated aim of promotion from premier grand cru classé “B” to the coveted “A” status.

‘Staying in B category is not my goal’: Rolland

Château Figeac spokeswoman Cécile Routurier confirmed that Rolland signed the contract ‘a few days ago’.

Although the château would not elaborate more on the nature of the contract, Rolland told Decanter.com that he was approached by owner Marie-France Manoncourt, the widow of former owner Thierry Manoncourt, to consult the estate.

Mme Manoncourt could not be reached, and co-owner Eric d’Aramon, her son-in-law, did not wish to make any comment about Rolland’s new role with the château.

Rolland says that he is ‘very excited’ about working with Château Figeac, and that it will be ‘far easier’ to consult on the Right Bank of Bordeaux than in South America or South Africa, ‘if less exotic, perhaps.’

His goal, he said, is to make the château a Grand Cru Classé A.

‘We will work together for a year and see how it goes,’ he said, without revealing any monetary details about the contract.

Much to the disappointment of the owners, Château Figeac was not promoted to premier grand cru classé A status, in the latest revision of the classification of Saint Emilion, which was carried out last year and led to A-level promotions of Château Angélus and Pavie, at both of which Rolland consults.

Rolland said that ‘in the next few weeks’ he will ‘complete an inventory of things to do,’ but he specified that ‘we will pick ripe grapes and do the best vinification possible’.

He said he is looking forward to working with the château’s technical director Frédéric Faye, ‘a young man I know well.’

Rolland also said that he does not like to talk ‘in terms of making the wine better’ but rather ‘moving forward’ when asked about any specific stylistic changes he would undertake.

On social media, wine aficionadoes around the world have been expressing surprise and even dismay that Figeac, known for its traditional style, should employ Rolland, whose reputation is for crafting wines in a more modern style.

Rolland said, ‘If being traditional means staying in the B category, then that’s not my goal.’

http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/583758/rolland-vows-to-take-figeac-into-st-emilion-premier-league