Australian Wines and the Chinese Market

 

Text & Photo by Maxime LU

The decade-long negotiations between China and Australia over the free trade agreement finally concluded in triumphant success on 17 June, 2015. The China-Australia Free Trade Agreement (ChAFTA) was signed in Canberra, Australia by government representatives of the two countries. Later, schedules of tariff reduction commitments for a range of products, including wine in the next five years were released. Under the ChAFTA, the tariff on Australian wine imports will reduce from a base rate of 14% to 11.2% in year one, 8.4% in year two, 5.6% in year three, and 2.8% in year four. The final abolishment of the tariff is expected to come in 2019. Australia has been under tremendous economic pressure in recent years. Its high welfare payments, among other causes, have resulted in heavy fiscal deficit. Meanwhile, Australia is experiencing price drops of its major exports such as iron ore. In light of the situation, the Australian government has been working on promising products in other areas, with wine being one of the key growth points for the Australian economy.

 

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The Australian wine industry dates back to 1788. Since then, the country has grown to be a leading producer in the New World of Wine with comprehensive competitiveness. I have visited major wine regions such as the Western Australia, Southern Australia and Victoria. Though my trips haven’t yet covered New South Wales and Tasmania, Australia’s unique viticulture advantages have already left a deep impression on me. The great diversity and outstanding quality guarantee of Australian wines are a combined result of its geographic location (standalone continent), strict environmental protection measures, the concept of sustainability, its complex terroir, openness of the industry, professional talent training organizations (represented by the University of Adelaide) and its R&D centers for wine technologies. Australia offers a wide range of great wine options for daily or individualized consumption. In the international wine market, the Australian wine has become widely recognized.
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Australia is the world’s fifth largest wine exporter. According to the latest statistics released by Wine Australia, in the 12 months to 30 June, 2015, the value of Australian wine exports rose 5 per cent to A$1.89 billion, and its volume rose 4 per cent to 720 million liters. This is the first time the value of wine exports has increased on a financial year basis since 2006/07. The export volume is also the highest since 2010/11. Australia’s top five export countries take up 72% of the total wine export value, namely the U.S. (down 7.9 per cent to A$415 million), the UK (down 1.5 per cent to A$369 million), Mainland China (up 32.1 per cent to A$280 million), Canada (down 0.7 per cent to A$182 million) and Hong Kong (up 28.4 per cent to A$112 million). The Chinese market has experienced the strongest growth. Australia’s middle range and premium wines (above A$7.50/liter) are doing quite well in China, the number one destination for Australian wine exports. During the same period, Australian wine has remained as the second top seller in China’s import wine market with sales of US$356 million (increase of 59%), which is 1.44 times higher than that of Chile in the third place.
Statistics reveal that Australia cannot afford to ignore the potentials and importance of the Chinese market. To better understand how Australian wine exports are developing in China, we shall take a look at the Figure “Bottled exports to China by price points”, which shows volume developments of bottled exports at two different price points.
In 2005/06, China’s tariffs on imported wine have been substantially reduced. Meanwhile, increasingly active international communications and the rising national income have contributed to a growing demand for imported wines, as more and more Chinese people took a liking to wine drinking on various occasions. In the period from 2005/6 to 2008/9, Australia wine exports to China have steadied its volume at a stable growth rate. However, the total annual volume remained insignificant due to insufficient marketing efforts.
The global financial crisis in 2008/09 has dragged the Australian dollar to Chinese Yuan Renminbi exchange rate down to a low point. Australian wines thus have become quite cost efficient. At the same time, China has entered a boom of growth in the wine market. The government’s 4-trillion infrastructure investment (to counteract the effects of financial crisis) has led to excess of liquidity, which not only vitalized China’s wine market, but also increased the volume of low-end Australian wine imports by China. However, these factors didn’t benefit the middle range and premium Australian wines, as Bordeaux wine was an absolute market dominator in the segment.
The Australian dollar exchange rate rebounded in 2010/2011. Wine dealers were struggling with excessive stock as a result of rushing into the market in the previous period. The market demand for low-end Australian wines slowed down. The Chinese government has adopted tightened economic policies, resulting in a declining premium wine market led by Bordeaux wines.
Starting in 2010/2011, the Australian government started to target more resources to the Chinese wine market. Wine Australia has clearly reinforced its promotional efforts on bringing Australian wines to China. A series of effective promotional measures were introduced, such as inviting Chinese wine specialists, media and kol (key opinion leaders) to Australian wine regions, and implementing A+ Australian Wine School programs in China. Australian wine’s image of quality and diversity started to take root in the Chinese market. The market responded by a remarkable increase of sales for A$5/liter (export price) Australian wines.
In the second half of 2012 to 2013, the Chinese government launched an anti-corruption campaign to curb the “three public expenses” (expenses on vehicles, receptions and overseas trips). These activities sent a great blow to the Chinese wine market that relied heavily on public expenses and institutional consumption. Above A$5/liter Australian wines were also affected by the campaign, whereas low-end segment wines were not. By then, the Chinese wine market began transferring its focus to the segment of individual consumption.
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In light of the latest market development, Wine Australia has mobilized relevant industry players to launch a series of marketing activities. For example, grape harvest tours to Australia were organized. Australia actively participated in the leading ProWine China and many other influential wine trade fairs on the Chinese mainland. Other marketing activities include wine tasting roadshows in various key Chinese cities, the Wine Australia Annual Awards Ceremony recognizing outstanding promoters of the Australian wine as well as events for premium retail channels. Wine Australia is dedicated to promoting the quality and diversity of Australian wine. The organization regularly carries out A+ Australian Wine School programs for wine enthusiasts and consumers. It also organizes master classes and new media promotional activities.
It’s safe to say that Australia undoubtedly promoted itself in China with the most active, effective, innovative and influential efforts from 2010/11 to 2014/15. Therefore, Australian wine exports to China were able to quickly overcome the market downturn in the last fiscal year and remained in the second position after France with its outstanding 59% sales increase.
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Instead of practicing the existing approaches, Australia continued down the path of innovative marketing activities. Wine Australia is organizing a creative yet low-cost event called Thirsty Thursday Blind Tasting competition in various cities, showcasing the diversity and quality of Australian wine to industry specialists and kol.
The Australian Grape and Wine Authority (AGWA) came into being on 1 July, 2014 following the merger of Wine Australia Corporation and the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation. The merger consolidates industry resources and structure so as to more efficiently and cost-effectively utilize funds from vineyards and wine growers for R&D, market development and wine promotion.
Besides Wine Australia, the industry also initiates other marketing events. The State Government of Victoria invited a large number of Chinese wine importers and media to the local sub-regions. The Margaret River wine region to the south of Western Australia organized wine with cuisine events in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Chengdu. In the meantime, Australian vineyards actively participate in marketing events of wine importers. Nearly half of the participants at wine tasting events or dinners that I attended in Beijing were Australian vineyards.
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The latest activities of the Australian wine industry in China are also noteworthy. The Australian Retail leader Woolworths Liquor Group (WLG) has announced that it has acquired China-based wine and drinks distributor Summergate as part of its China strategy. TWE has also started to shift from relying on importers to building up its own direct distribution channels.
It can be expected that, in the near future, more Australian wine brands will appear in the Chinese market, together with larger presence of Australian investments and talents.
– LU Jiang, WineOnline.CN –

万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列137,“乱战黑皮诺”活动总结

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

10月18日下午,黑皮诺盲品局欢乐开场。陆江老师在分别介绍了本次八款黑皮诺的背景和相关知识之后,就挨个开瓶进醒酒器开始盲品。由于这位老师拥有类似鱼的记忆,酒倒在第一个酒杯里的瞬间已经忘掉出自哪一瓶,所以能够与大家一道快乐享受盲品游戏的乐趣。

此次盲品以连线的形式作答,虽说是降低了难度,可也让大家更加纠结。下面我们不道德的曝光一下冠军Justin的答题纸,你能看出他挣扎的内心吗?

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此外,本次活动非常善良的选用了不同产区各具特点的黑皮诺,共性除了都是皮诺,就是都是好酒~阿根廷的Treinta Y Dos, Bodega Chacra酒庄,是意大利名酒Sassicaia所在酒庄San Guido在阿根廷的patagonia建立的。以阿根廷并不主打的Pinot Noir,位列winesearcher阿根廷最昂贵葡萄酒top10之内。

新西兰的Pyramid是生物动力的典范,注意,不是谦辞,是真典范!Earth Smoke Pinot Noir被不少国际酒评机构和酒评人列为新西兰最顶尖的黑皮诺之一。

Echezeaux Grand Cru,Domaine Jean Grivot, 2008大名庄的依休斯特级园,大家都认得,不必多说。

Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles Domaine de Montille 2009 是名家De Montille家的庞马一级园。

Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans Domaine de Montille 2008 则是De Montille家的一级园。

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最后是Justin一举夺魁,小培随后在剪刀石头布竞技中与同分选手PK胜出。获得佳士得北京会所的勃艮第济贫院拍卖前预展品酒会名额。恭喜恭喜,部分夺冠热门的资深酒友由于 “想太多”、“把评委揣测的太复杂”不幸落榜,下次要继续努力打败评委哦!

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当天拍卖阵容豪华,红颜容1997在十几轮竞拍之后被韩松拿下。Barolo2007花落小培家,而西班牙大牌Contador的Andres Romeo则被表示“我喝过这个不错”的汀汀抱走。

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最后大力感谢土拔鼠同学为我们带来的原麦山丘的面包,搭配陆江老师亲手制作,大受表扬的鹅肝(见下图),以及吴英带来的一点渣渣都没有剩下的曲奇。友情自带食物的小伙伴都是最可爱的人。也期待下次活动陆老师要带来的陈年奶酪。下期再见啦。

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跟鹅肝世家掌门人Pierre学做鹅肝

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

法国西南是贵族食材鹅肝的故乡。九月的薄雾清晨,一众真爱粉为爱不远千里,来到西南小镇Gimont,跟着鹅肝世家的主人Pierre Dubarry老爷子学习制作鹅肝,为这种细腻柔滑如一个悠长亲吻的顶级美味寻根溯源。

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店铺里出售鹅肝和各式包装精美的食物

Pierre曾数度前往中国,他讲他在酒店房间里漫洒钞票的少年轻狂,讲看广场的大妈们打太极,说姿势优美,如抚白云。他的店自1908年在Gimont开业起, 至今已至四代。

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根据老爷子所述,是古埃及人首先观察到,野鹅在三月左右(迁徙之前),会大量吃入食物,把能量储存在肝脏里,才有力气完成长途飞行,这个阶段的肥肝营养丰富,味道鲜美,就此开始人为喂养。这方法传到了古罗马,古罗马人因地制宜,用无花果喂食野鹅取肝。再之后由于路易十六的推崇,鹅肝迅速盛行于法国。受比利牛斯山地势和大西洋的影响,西南地区宜于玉米等谷物种植,也因此更适合饲养家禽。

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▲ 古埃及人饲鹅的壁画

早有生物学家提出,家鹅起源于野生雁种。我们所在的鹅肝作坊的墙上还贴着一首唐代诗人陆龟蒙关于大雁迁徙的五言绝句,Pierre对我们介绍说这是中国关于野鹅迁徙时被捕杀的描述和记录。

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南北路何长,中间万弋张,

不知烟雾里,几只到衡阳。

好,现在来重新明确一个概念,由于鹅肝成熟速度慢,繁殖率低,我们常吃的鹅肝其实是以鸭肝为主。以下这张图是自1975年起鹅肝工业中使用鸭和鹅的比例:

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鸭肝分以下三种:

1. Barbarie :当哥伦布从新大陆带回了人们从未见过的玉米、土豆和辣椒,他还带回了原本在森林中群居,私生活糜乱的小野鸭们。这种野鸭肉质好,无肥肝,主要用于交配。

2. Pekin:马可波罗从亚洲引进的北京鸭,肝肥,但皮肉中脂肪很少。

3. Mulard:野鸭和北京鸭的杂交品种。肉质好,且肝更肥美。

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最好的肝重量在600g左右。取出鸭肝后必须要在5个小时内处理,不然即使形貌还在,细胞活性,新鲜度,口感也都会随时间流失。
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具体步骤:准备好盐、胡椒、酒和空罐

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切成一大一小,用手指找血管位置,

除掉筋和脂肪,动作一定要轻柔。


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切两刀,沿着切口撒上盐和胡椒。

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胡椒有三种,按产地分:马达加斯加、喀麦隆、牙买加。

使用比例为:1:1:1


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用数钞票的手势,均匀的在正反两面撒盐。

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盐的使用比例:按每一公斤鸭肝用15g盐,注意手不要沾湿。

 

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填实,确认不留空气。不要超过铁线的位置。

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加点酒,店主用的是雅文邑

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边缘擦干净,顶部再放一点胡椒。

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然后放入专业的蒸炉里在100度下蒸25分钟,

90度蒸35分钟

这种方式蒸出来的鸭肝无须冷藏,可封存四年以上。

注意蒸的温度降低则蒸的时间要延长,可存储时间相应减短。

而加热时间过长则会破坏味道,

打开之后则必须尽快吃完。

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或者用蒸锅蒸,同样蒸25分钟。

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用以上步骤处理一整块鸭肝,一个熟练的员工每小时可处理10kg肝,一年会用掉150,000只鸭。Pierre Dubarry手下有22名专职处理鸭肝的员工。

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▲ 店的外观,认准了好找哦~

Pierre强调:制作的关键是内心要充满对满食物的爱意。这个善讲情话的法国人,在拍集体合照时就委屈的说,怎么办,现在已经开始想念你们了。

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▲与Pierre Dubarry——学习制作鹅肝并艺成出师的陆江老师的毕业照

意大利Montalcino名庄 IL Poggione品鉴记录

图文:陆江(Maxime LU)

  最近几年,随着葡萄酒的逐渐普及,北京葡萄酒爱好者圈子里,精品酒的流行趋势,已逐渐从法国波尔多葡萄酒产区转变成更多其它产区。更好的多样性,这当然是件好事。我个人因为是葡萄酒媒体和教育工作,所以对酒的喜好也会比较博爱,经常参加不同产区葡萄酒的品鉴。

那日听说在葡道有一场意大利名庄Tenuta IL Poggione的品鉴会,这是意大利托斯卡纳顶级产区Montalcino的重要名庄。我自然不会错过!

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  参加品酒会,如果要有更多收获和提高,必须得做功课。我自然不例外,查阅资料和酒庄官网,简单概述一下:

Tenuta IL Poggione是Montalcino产区最主要的酒庄之一,由Lavinio Franceschi先生于1890年购买土地,建成于19世纪末,至今仍归属于Franceschi家族。家族最初就认识到这片土地在葡萄种植酿造方面的潜力,同时也发现了Sangiovese这个品种在这片土壤的潜力,于是用现代商业和企业管理取代了原有中世纪传承的农业管理方式,Franceschi家族用心推动着酒庄发展。

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经过Franceschi家族努力,酒庄采用了Sangiovese的新克隆,开发了新的葡萄园。经过了一个多世纪,现在的酒庄掌舵人Franceschi家族的Leopoldo 和 Livia,他们还是继续传承先辈的基本原则,不断采用最新最前沿的的技术,但产品仍然会用传统方法和理念进行生产,保留当地的传统风格和本土特点。

酒庄总面积600公顷,其中有125公顷的葡萄园,还有70公顷橄榄树,其余为耕地和林地。

说起Tenuta IL Poggione在品质控制和种植酿酒方面,值得特别提一下。酒庄在控制葡萄出产方面措施极为严格,采用了如Green Harvest(绿色采收,主要为了限产,提高品质),周期监控葡萄园状况,检测土壤对营养的需求,高端产品只在优秀年份才出。

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  以Green Harvest(绿色采收)为例,酒庄的首席酿酒师Fabrizio Bindocci曾在媒体采访时提到过, Brunello di Montalcino的每公顷葡萄产量法律规定最大为8千公斤,而当地生产商为了提升品质,将产量控制在6千公斤内。为了控制产量,Tenuta IL Poggione在Green Harvest(绿色采收)等环节时会将葡萄挂果的30%-50%清除掉。这是一个很高的比例。

酒庄在采收时完全手工进行。然后在2004年新建的新酒窖里培养生产。新酒窖应用了很新的技术,但为了遵循传统,酒庄培养酒还是在地面五米下的大法国橡木桶里进行。

  pud1酒庄代表Francesca Bindocci / 陆江拍摄

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活动现场 / 陆江拍摄

  陆江品酒记录:

Toscana igt rosso2012,70% Sangiovese 30% Merlot

红黑果味,干净,一丝罗勒,香料,中等酒体,酸度中等略强,单宁中等,比较细致,回味中等。亲切易饮的酒。

 

Rosso di montalcino 2011,12个月的法国大橡木桶培养。

香料为主,黑色水果,中重酒体,平滑,单宁强,天鹅绒般,酸度中强,活跃平衡,回味中长。品酒会当天最好性价比。

 

Brunello di montalcino docg 2009,3年在 3000-5000升的法国橡木桶

皮革,香料,精致咖啡豆,重酒体,酸度中强,单宁强有力,有结构,平衡,回味长,甜香料,不错的陈年。

 

Brunello di montalcino RiservaVigna paganelli 2007

香料,咖啡豆,皮革,橄榄菜,重酒体,饱满,不错的结构,完整集中,酸度中强,单宁强而细致,平衡,回味长。
Vigna paganelli是酒庄最老的葡萄园。在1964年Leopoldo Franceschi 雇佣了一位罗马尼亚农业专家Piero Talenti, 重新组织和再种植了酒庄的葡萄园。只有最好年份,酒庄才会做这款酒。Brunello di Montalcino 法律要求Riserva必须陈年5年,其中3年是在橡木桶里培养,Bindocci使用大橡木桶,尽可能减低橡木气息对酒的影响。

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欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问。

王智慧(Serien WANG)

– 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者,《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监,万欧兰文化葡萄酒讲师。