上周五，西安美国使馆活动，我做了个美国酒讲座, 美国大使临时紧急回国,今天看到报纸，原来就是为了胡奥会!
Category Archives: 葡萄酒与美食生活
布根地(Burgendy)简介
布根地(Burgendy)简介
陆江/万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部
法国葡萄酒著名的产区中，最耳熟能详的可能就是波尔多，而事实上在法国还有一个与之并驾齐驱的实力产区，这就是布根地(Bourgogne)产区。法国最顶尖的酒园，罗曼尼.康帝园 (DRC-Domaine de la Romanee Conti)就位于布根地产区。
Beaune的酒博物馆里19世纪的布根地（Bourgogne)老酒（陆江/拍摄）
作为一个古老而传奇的产区，布根地的葡萄酒少了份张扬多了些优雅和高贵，而且布根地产区的红白葡萄酒实力相对均衡，都有引以为傲的大家之作，这使布根地成为不少葡萄酒爱好者心目中的圣地。
DRC的罗曼尼.康帝（Romanee Conti）
下面简单介绍一下布根地产区的情况：
布根地Bourgogne葡萄酒历史：
1．公元前5世纪，乃至更早，布根地已有葡萄酒消费。
2. 公元前58年裘利斯.恺撒（Jules César，即恺撒大帝）为首的罗马人入侵高卢（法国前身），首次带来了葡萄种植和葡萄酒生产。
3．公元312年首度文字记录大规模葡萄种植酿造。
4. 从公元500年到公元1400年，布根地（Bourgogne）葡萄酒的质量获得了广大的基督教国家的认可。在那时侯的战争期间，这些宗教社团会得到一定程度的保护，葡萄酒相关的经验知识被一代代的传递积累下来，继而传遍了整个欧洲。期间尤其是909年科吕尼修道院（L’abbaye deCluny）的建立（标志着本笃会-Benedictine的成立）以及1098年的西多会（CITEAUX）的成立，宗教势力对布根地（Bourgogne）葡萄酒的理念、种植以及酿造发展起到举足轻重的推动作用，其深远影响一直持续至今；
5. 十四世纪到十五世纪，布根地公国到了强盛的黄金时期，布根地葡萄酒也随之成为全欧最著名葡萄酒。期间最著名的事件为： 1395年菲利普公爵下令用“高贵”的葡萄品种黑皮诺（Pinot Noir）取代“低贱”的佳美葡萄(Gamay)，结果至今在布根地，除薄若来(Beaujolais)产区外，其它众多产区几乎都是黑皮诺（Pinot Noir）的天下。
6. 17世纪到19世纪中期，中产阶级（Bourgeoisie）酒商们纷纷崛起。 1787年托马斯杰菲逊（Thomas Jefferson，美国第三任总统）访问布根地酒园。法国大革命(1789年)时期教会葡萄园被充公。新技术（玻璃、铁路）推动布根地葡萄酒贸易的迅速发展。
7. 19世纪后期，横扫欧洲的根瘤蚜虫病害使布根地葡萄园几乎全军覆没；
8. 20世纪到21世纪初，葡萄果农们自己开始拥有酒园。经济困难的30年代市场混乱，布根地葡萄酒声誉受到重创。1935年诞生AOC制度。20世纪中期至今，带着历史的厚重积淀，布根地葡萄酒走向了品质回归之路。
布根地Bourgogne5个主要产区（从北至南）： 
布根地Bourgogne5个主要产区（从北至南）：
Chablis夏布利; Cote de Nuits夜丘; Cote de Beaune博恩丘 ; Cote Chalonnaise夏龙内丘 ;Macon马贡
布根地Bourgogne等级（从低到高）：
Bourgogne AOC 、Villages村庄级、Premier cru一级园和Grand Cru特等园
布根地Bourgogne 常见葡萄品种：
白：Chardonnay夏多内（大部分）, Aligote阿利高特（小部分）。还存在少量的Sauvignon索维浓和 Sauvignon gris灰索维浓在Saint-Bris法定产区 (约有103公顷)；另外还有极少数的Sacy萨茜、白皮诺(Pinot Blanc)和Melon de Bourgogne布根地香瓜（也就是卢瓦河的MUSCADET品种）。
红：Pinot Noir黑皮诺（大部分），Gamay 佳美（主要集中在薄若来产区-Beaujolais）。还有很少量的Tressot特埃索和César恺撒。
Steven Spurrier对五大酒庄2009年份期酒的点评
贴点DECANTER的Steven Spurrier对五大酒庄2009年份期酒的点评:
Tasting notes by Steven Spurrier/DECANTER
Chateau Haut-Brion, 1er Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2009
Black red, satiny smooth expression of pure fruit, rich and velvety texture with firm tannins that show up after the concentrated fragrance of pure vineyard fruit, beautiful structure and almost massive for Haut-Brion, but this robustness will assure a great and fascinating future. Drink 2016-45. (19.5 points)
Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45 (19.5 points)
Chateau Margaux, 1er Cru Classe, Margaux 2009
Fine black red, quite magical bouquet, pure quality of cashmere silkiness on the palate with a touch of fragrance from Cabernet Franc, blending softness of attack with pure density. A wine of stunning fragrance and purity, the most perfect expression imaginable of the greatest of Margaux vineyards. Drink 2016-40. (20 points)
Chateau Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50. (19.5 points)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009
Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points)
波尔多2009年份是个精彩年份,但不是超级水平!
很高兴权威的Decanter最新的这篇文章, 希望能让贪婪的波尔多酒庄主们收敛点. 前段时间他们或他们影响到的地方把2009期酒捧得过高.
Bordeaux 2009: An ‘exciting’ vintage, but disagreements over quality
波尔多2009年份是个精彩年份,但不是超级水准!
April 7, 2010
By Guy Woodward
As the dust settles on the en primeur week, followers of the lauded Bordeaux 2009 are facing more questions than answers over what is proving an intoxicating vintage.
Whereas in most years, patterns tend to emerge over favoured communes or styles, this year there is no broad consensus ?other than that there are some stunning wines around.
‘It’s the most exciting vintage I’ve known in 15 years of tasting en primeur,’ said the normally reserved Decanter contributing editor James Lawther MW.
‘But it’s impossible to generalise about specific communes and appellations.’
Many trade and press visitors went to Bordeaux expecting to be overwhelmed by the wines’ alcohol content, which is as high as it has ever been.
Yet with acidity levels also high, few have reported the levels as being intrusive, save for a handful of wines.
Chief among these was Cos d’Estournel ?at 14.5% alcohol it was ‘undrinkable’ according to UK merchant Charles Taylor, a ‘disaster’ in the view of Sotheby’s’ Serena Sutcliffe MW, but ‘already of legendary proportions’ in the mind of Hew Blair of UK merchant J&B.
Simon Staples from UK merchant Berry Bros warned against comparing 2009 to the much-praised 2005 vintage.
‘Is it better than 2005 across the board? No,’ he said.
‘Quite a lot of the Merlot-dominant wines of the right bank, who left their grapes on the vines a tad too long, are off balance with very harsh, high alcoholic levels.’
Decanter’s scores and tasting notes from the Bordeaux 2009 en primeur tasting week can be found here.