昨天看到这则新闻,值得思考,无论是消极还是积极影响,温室效应已经越来越出现在我们的身边和领域. 别忘了,Bergerac的北邻就是最有名的波尔多产区,早晚也要面临危机.
新闻原文如下,我简单翻译了一下.
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‘Merlot ‘impossible’ in Bergerac
November 30, 2009
Jane Anson in Bordeaux, Decanter.com
One of Bergerac’s most renowned winemakers has claimed that global warming is making Merlot impossible in the region.
Hugh Ryman of Chateau de la Jaubertie said he had not planted a Merlot vine since 2000, and he was replacing all his existing Merlot with Cabernet Franc or Malbec.
‘It’s a long process financially, but I am increasingly using the Merlot for the rosé not the main red, and ensuring that I use New World vinification methods such as colder temperatures and shorter maceration times.’
Ryman’s vineyards today are 45% Merlot, but in his top quality reds, only 25-30% of the grape goes into the blend, because of the problem of reaching full tannin maturity before alcohol levels get too high.
‘The wine has good mouthfeel but loses the fruit character. And what’s the point of Merlot at 15 or 16 degrees?’
‘We are going to have to adapt if we want grapes with enough finesse to produce top quality wines.’
Local merchant Guy de Sauvignan confirmed, ‘There are vines that would have difficulty if temperatures rose by a few degrees, but any changes will be very slow.’
Alain Reynaud, owner of Chateau Le Croix de Gay in Pomerol and consultant for over ten properties in the region, said, ‘As long as I have clay soils, I will plant Merlot. But temperatures do seem to be rising, and if I had more gravel, I would love the right to plant Syrah in Bordeaux.’
美乐(Merlot)“不再合适”贝杰哈克(Bergerac)
二○○九年十一月三十日
Jane Anson，波尔多，Decanter.com
贝杰哈克最负盛名的葡萄酒生产商之一声称，全球气候变暖使美乐品种不再合适该地区。
Chateau de la Jaubertie 的Hugh Ryman说，他自2000年以来就没有再种植美乐品种，他已用品丽珠(Cabernet Franc)或马尔贝克(Malbec)逐渐取代他现有的美乐品种。
从财务角度来说，这是一个漫长的过程，但我越来越多地使用美乐来酿制桃红酒(ROSE),而不是红葡萄酒，并确保使用，如低温和较短浸提时间等新世界的酿造手法。
Ryman的葡萄园现有45％美乐，但在他的高品质的红葡萄酒里，只调配进25-30％的美乐，主要就是因为单宁充分成熟之前，酒精含量就已经达到过高的问题.
“葡萄酒虽具有良好的口感，但丧失许多果味特性，而且试想这可是已经15或16度酒精的美乐？”
“为了有足够细腻的葡萄来生产高质量的酒，我们将不得不适应这个现状。”
当地酒商Guy de Sauvignan证实，’如果气温再上升几度的话，有些葡萄树将陷入困境，当然任何更改都将会很缓慢地进行。”
Alain Reynaud, 是位于Pomerol的Le Croix de Gay酒庄庄主，同时也是本产区10余个酒庄的顾问，他说：“本来如果我拥有粘土质土地，我会立刻决定种美乐，可现在气温看起来一直处于上升趋势，如果我有更多的砾石土地，我会更愿意在波尔多种植西拉（Syrah）。”
