传奇食材松露,全球产区国简介

文:陆江  &  王智慧|葡萄酒在线

最近蛮忙,我走了厦门和长沙,昨天到青岛,准备今天的阿根廷葡萄酒巡展青岛站的大师班讲课。

昨晚备课之余,看了点卫视探索频道(Discovery),正好看到《Unearthed》。内容是讲述美国俄勒冈州的瀑布城附近的黑松露采挖行业,原本只是对意法产区和中国云南产区有所了解,这部片子让我大开眼界,没想到我去过两回的俄勒冈州居然是上等黑松露产区。

虽然我主业是葡萄酒撰稿和培训,不过酒食不分家,美食一直也是我的兴趣点,于是和同事商量出一篇关于俄勒冈松露的文字。不过网上能找到的资料很少,干脆就做全球常见松露产区简介。

 

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松露, 野生真菌类,属于西洋松露属(学名:Tuber), 生于地下,通常在与树根紧密联系的部位可找到它,是一种为世人所追捧的,贵于钻石的食材。

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松露的味道

台湾葡萄酒男神林裕森在他的《欧陆传奇食材》一书中这样形容松露的气味,“松露的香味就是这么特别,闻过一次肯定会终身难忘。精液、旧床单、瓦斯、腐液、腌蒜头、发酵的玉米、麝香、湿稻草等等都曾被用来形容松露的香气,靠着这些跟美味沾不上边的诡谲气味,让老餮们甘心要为松露散尽银两”。这也许是因为如意大利罗马生物医学专家发布的,松露含有类似大麻酚结构的,无害的,能让大脑释放出增强情绪的化学物质。也许是人类本就喜好无常,理智无法解释的时候,无妨忠于舌尖自己做出的选择,虽然这个选择如此诡谲。

 

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松露的价格

一磅的欧洲白松露可卖出几千美元,而仅黑松露的切屑就可以卖出几百美元。去年年底,在意大利发现了4.16磅重的白松露,被某个土豪出价100万美元买走。。。嗯,有钱真好。所以19世纪巴黎著名的交际花欧里妮(Laured’Aurigny)会在意大利大道的富人咖啡厅 (Café Riche) 会留下一句名言:“我爱男人,因为我爱松露。”

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松露的产区

松露的昂贵也源于它对生存环境的极端挑剔,对环境、阳光、水量、土壤酸碱值的要求相当苛刻,同时只要周边生存的环境发生了细微的变化,松露孢子都无法忍受,并将停止生长。目前全世界除了传统的法国、意大利、地中海北部地区之外,美国的俄勒冈也成为新兴产区,据说还有中国云南。

Truffle orchard; visit BlakerÕs truffle farm, Manjimup. Dog (Latte), sniffing for truffles in orchard with Ben Blaker.

法国● 佩里格

法国约有70%的黑松露来自南法。19世纪末根瘤蚜虫为葡萄园带来毁灭性的伤害,葡萄大片大片地死亡,当地的葡萄农选择将葡萄园改种为橡树林,反而为松露的生长创造了有利的植被条件,同时这里光照雨水适宜,逐步发展成规模性的严肃的生意。

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意大利●皮埃蒙特

是的,也就是伟大的Barolo和Barbaresco葡萄酒所在的地方。20世纪中期,有想法的意大利松露商每年都会挑上好的松露送给丘吉尔、玛丽莲.梦露、希区柯克、帕瓦罗蒂和戈尔巴乔夫,名人口碑带动市场,以致白松露在二战之后迅速崛起。每到10月初,著名的Alba(阿尔巴)市博览会就开始了,露天搭起的大帐篷,黑土块似的白松露被祭品一样,小心翼翼的供在每个摊位的玻璃罩子里,供朝圣者膜拜。

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西班牙●特鲁埃尔

虽然名声没那么大,西班牙也是产松露的,比如特鲁埃尔地区,在西班牙内战(1936-1939)处于前沿,战争结束后居民迁移,土地弃耕,境况惨不忍睹。而就在这时,人们发现松露不仅是法国和意大利的专利,这一片贫瘠的土壤也能长出黑松露来。松露种植业如同神祗的恩赐一样,拯救了这个小镇,并就此在这里扎根。

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美国●俄勒冈

尽管俄勒冈松露的价格依然低于欧洲出产的松露,盗采者难以控制,但总的来说,前景乐观。根据Discovery的纪录片“Unearthed”所讲,一个松露农民在旺季通常每天可赚2000美元,而目前俄勒冈所经受的前所未有的干旱威胁到了松露的生长,降低了农民的收成,同时刺激其价格攀升到了前所未有的高度。

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美国每年1月开幕的俄勒冈松露节也在逐渐形成规模,包括松露品鉴、以及亲自和训练有素的猎狗一起寻找松露的环节。整个2014年,俄勒冈州有大约100只猎犬专门从事这一行业,可见松露行业的盛行。据经济时报刊登的文章,俄勒冈松露节的创办人之一查尔斯·勒费夫尔(Charles Lefevre)估计,到2030年,俄勒冈的松露销售额将会达到2亿美元。

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中国●云南

云南四川一带很早就有松露的挖掘,但是在名气和价格上和欧洲都还有差距。产量不小,其中也有精品。它的相对低价也为它赢得了市场。不过说到舌尖上的美食开篇提到的云南松茸,请注意,那不过是松露的远亲。

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Chinese wine market: Through the valley of recession

Chinese wine market: Through the valley of recession

Photo and Text : Maxime LU

In recent years, policy to clampdown gifting and ostentatious display of wealth among officials, along with decelerated growth of Chinese economy has sent Chinese wine market into trough period. In a different perspective however, it also signals opportunities for return of a much healthy,amorepersonal- consumption oriented wine market. Such transition has promoted domestic wine industry to be explored and try new market model. Foreign wine makers and wine regionassociations have found out the capital that they invested in brand promotion didn’t bring satisfactory result in recent years. Adjusting strategies and adopting more effective measures, effectively increasing brand awareness are many wine industry business objectives, here are a few points that need special attention:

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1.Make sure your brand image isheard as widely as possible.

Paying attention to the propagation accuracy and diversity is one of the keys. Organizers invest time, manpower and material resources to host a perfect dinner or tasting event, but often reluctant to invest more resources and efforts on the propagation. Without enough exposure to propagate the brand image expressed by these events adequately, nor do enough distribution channels to let target audiences to understand your promotion campaign, it is undoubtedly getting half the result for the same effort. Increasing your brand activities exposures as much as possible is the most important part, it doesn’t necessarily means you have to invest a large sum of budget. By choosing a flexible promotion model and correct channels which can achieve high rate of dissemination, your promotion activity can achieve effects of multiple promotion campaigns.

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2.Select the effective brandcommunication channels.

Choosing traditional media with precise target audience such as paper magazines and books, or faster spreading and higher flexibility media such as websites, APP,public WeChat channel, but also from included self-published media like blog,Weibo and Circle of Friends of WeChat Channel. As the whole society has entered the age of Multi-media, business must have a clear  understanding and enough analysis on: their main target audience, considerations of timeliness, channel efficiency and coverage, as well as the cost of each delivery channel. As for the traditional paper media whose influences have been weakened gradually, one must take into account the reality of its circulation and delivery site, compared to this, wine books have even narrower distribution.

Now let us move to self-publishing media.In order to attract more original contents, a lot of major platforms have endowed wider distribution of its content via multidevice/ OS friendly platform, such as PCfriendly, mobile browser friendly and app. In this era where a friend gathering evolved into a much-maligned scene where everyone bows to play their mobiles, the visitor volume of a rising self-publishing media on PC and mobile browser views may not be high, but the visitors volume on its related channel on their mobile apps platform is usually rather impressive while being more accurate at the same time. These distribution channels have a better dissemination of results, on the other hand, the price-efficiency of releasing news with self-publishing media at this stage is not bad at all.

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3.Comprehensive considerationand choosing flexible way to promote.

Trainings, lectures, wine exhibitions are common ways to promote but mainly limited to the wine industry professionals only. In addition, one can leverage with using the Chamber of Commerce or association to represent the overall image of a wine producing region, selecting high traffic supermarkets, shopping malls, organic markets to carry out wine culture themed festivals, or even promote experient ial market ing in the now personal-consumption dominated market. For example, most of the Chilean wine are suitable for everyday drinking, they are easy to resonate with their fruit & sweet spices aroma as the leading aroma, easy to drink, soft tannins, easy to access and higher acceptance to primary consumers, are particularly suitable for this type of experiential marketing, coupled with the Chilean wine price advantage, it can directly and efficiently attract to customers.

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2015 will be the year of recovery for the wine market, although not necessarily a substantial growth, but judging the data from the past few months and feedbacks from vintners of different scale, we are optimistic about this year’s rebound. In the past two years, Chinese wine industry has invested heavily to popularize and promote the wine culture and it has achieved initial success, more and more consumers who have been purchasing power of wine began to understand the basic wine knowledge. Some consumers who are interested in wine have even equipped themselves with advanced wine knowledge, and gradually developed themselves as opinion leaders in their own social circles.

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Demand of China’s  personal-consumption market also grows vigorously in market cultivation and wine culture education&promotion. At the present, it is a critical time for wine-producing countries, like Chile, to further open up a new prospect in the Chinese market. Stable quality, suitable taste for the market, the tariff gimmick, these should be anenduring promotion campaign instead of several intensive period of promotion activities. You do not have to burn money to carry out a largescale activities, as long as you rely on the industry associations or chambers of commerce that can easily win public trust, you can just cyclically carry out some small but propagation-effect oriented activities. This doesn’t need a lot of money but precise positioning, appropriate and flexible pattern, and strategies that suits the status quo for the Chinese market. Currently the major producing countries are actively promoting to seize market share in China, if not being aggressive at the moment, one will eventually fall behind and cede out the market one has won.

不断拓展中的智利葡萄酒版图

不断拓展中的智利葡萄酒版图

-现代智利葡萄酒产区拓展简述

图文 / 陆江(Maxime LU)

(本文已刊登于 1756chile.com 的专栏)

  2015年,智利葡萄酒经过10年的递减,进入中国大陆的关税终于降到0,智利葡萄酒由此再度成为进口商关注的热点。尤其在2012年以来三公限制政策的推进,在全球经济不景气的大环境下,国家经济政策多番收紧,以及葡萄酒市场热点转换和消费者消费理念的日趋成熟,市场已彻底地从原有的集团消费和对公消费为主的市场,转换到了以个人消费为主的市场。这时兼备极高性价比和多样性的智利葡萄酒,成了越来越多消费者的选择。

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Apalta产区/陆江摄影

平时性价比是智利葡萄酒被提及最多的优势,我就不再赘述,这次来了解一下多样性中的一个重要点:在过去三四十年“拓荒时代”中,产区们的开拓发现“时间表”,以及最新的发展状况。上个世纪,由于政治等因素,在七十年代之前智利葡萄酒行业发展缓慢,而现代葡萄酒工业发展基本是从七十年代末才开始,所以过去三四十年是代表了现代智利葡萄酒产区的发展变迁的时期。

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首先还是介绍一下智利产区概况,由于智利是狭长地带的国土,西面是浩瀚的太平洋,有着4000多公里的海岸线,东部是绵延高耸的安第斯山脉,南部已到南极冰原,北部到了阿塔卡玛沙漠(Atacama),平均仅100多公里的宽度,又是地震多发带,造就了地物地貌、土壤类型和微气候极为复杂多样。

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红魔鬼酒窖/陆江摄影

  1979年西班牙著名酿酒师米盖尔?桃乐丝(Miguel Torres)抵达智利并开始在谷里高山谷酿造葡萄酒。随着他的到来,智利葡萄酒行业开启了新篇章,这经常被认为是现代葡萄酒工业的起始。他首次引进先进的不锈钢温控发酵罐,法国橡木桶,以及一些品种的克隆,推动了智利葡萄酒的种植酿造技术的革命性发展。

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20世纪80年代- 探索海岸种植区和安第斯山脚葡萄园开始发展,1982 年Pablo Morandé在参观完美国加州卡内罗斯(Carneros,纳帕和索诺马交界)后,开始在冷且多风的卡萨布兰卡山谷(Casablanca Valley)种植葡萄园。

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随后20世纪90年代到来,一批新的优秀葡萄酒区逐渐被开发,产区遍及全国:

1993年- 里马利山谷(Limari )

1993年- 比奥比奥山谷(Bio Bio Valley)

1995年- 玛野高山谷(Malleco Valley)

1997年- 艾尔奇山谷(Elqui Valley)

1998年- 圣安东尼奥山谷(San Antonio Valley)

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2007年- Fundo Lechagua酒厂在首都圣地亚哥以南超过1100公里的齐罗艾岛(Chiloe Island)开始开辟葡萄园。位于南端的奥索勒诺(Osorno)的Lake District镇上,Vina Momberg第一次种植黑皮诺和长相思。

2012年- 为了便于管理,又推出3个法定区域名号:海岸区(Costa), 安第斯山区(Andes) 和中间区(Entre Cordilleras),覆盖整个智利产区。

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2013年智利最大的葡萄酒集团Concha y Toro的酿酒师Marcelo Papa在被Decanter采访时提到,智利现在不断在新葡萄种植区里寻找合适的风土条件来发展葡萄园,使之已成为世界上最活跃的葡萄酒产区国之一。

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其实纵观这几十年的产区开拓,智利虽然已发展出不少有独特风土的葡萄酒产区,北至阿塔卡玛区的科皮亚坡山谷(COPIAPO VALLEY)和胡阿斯克山谷(HUASCO VALLEY),南至卡乌丹山谷(CAUTIN VALLEY)和奥索勒诺山谷(OSORNO VALLEY),但其实还有很大的潜力可挖掘。智利葡萄酒产业的未来发展空间巨大。

wine map of chile

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欢迎微信搜索【万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部】或【wineclos】,关注我们公众号,我们有国际国内热点的葡萄酒资讯和专家观点,还有有趣好玩的美食美酒旅游活动。

 

陆江(Maxime LU)

– 国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委,独立酒评人,美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,资深葡萄酒和烈酒收藏顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师

 

王智慧(Serien WANG)

– 资深葡萄酒编辑、撰稿人和专业译者,《葡萄酒在线-WINEONLINE.CN》葡萄酒专题总监,万欧兰葡萄酒教育葡萄酒讲师

五月最佳性价比品酒会-葡道澳洲顶级酒品鉴

图文 / 陆江     编辑 / 王智慧

提到本月(2015年5月)北京品酒会的性价比,我相信北京葡道(Pudao Wines)举办的这场面向公众爱好者的澳大利亚顶级葡萄酒品酒会,完全有资格荣膺最佳。

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这场品酒会的酒款阵容豪华,都是来自于最新版-第六版澳洲最著名的精品酒(Fine Wine)排行榜-兰顿等级榜(简称兰顿榜)的最高级Exceptional的入列酒。作为澳洲零售业巨头WLG(Woolworth’s Lioquor Group)在华的全资分支酒类零售机构-葡道的这次手笔不小。6款酒每套酒(每种一瓶)的价格就在1万5千左右,而实收不到200元的品鉴费,是绝对的超值。当然葡道是有推广市场的因素,不过对于消费者来说是实打实的福利。

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这次超值活动还吸引到不少北京业内的不同酒商和葡萄酒教育机构的专业人士自费来参加。葡道总经理Marcus也专程从上海过来站台支持。

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每一款都是来自于不同的生产商,都是颇具声誉的澳洲重量级精品酒:

Grosset Polish hill Riesling是公认的白葡萄品种雷司令顶级生产商,以往试过数回,很喜欢他家风格,纯净又不失复杂度和集中度;

Giaconda Estate vineyard Chardonnay公认的澳洲白葡萄品种夏多内超一流作品,这一领域强手如林,我是第一次品鉴,竟有几分勃艮第夏多内顶级生产商Cochy dury的风格和实力;

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon,西澳赫赫有名的精品酒生产商,赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)做得精致,又有很强陈年实力;

Penfolds(奔富)707也是澳洲顶级赤霞珠的代表之一,在中国知名度最高的澳洲顶级精品酒之一;

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh shiraz是饱满强劲型澳洲顶级西拉子的代表作品之一。Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah是饱满不失优雅的澳洲顶级西拉子的代表,具备举重若轻的超一流实力。

 

详细酒款表现可参见后附的酒评记录(记录者:独立酒评人,国际国内葡萄酒大赛评委陆江)。现场还有专程来访的兰顿榜的创立者,国际著名葡萄酒大师Andrew Caillard MW,他主持品鉴讲解现场的澳洲顶级酒和一些理念的分享。

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Andrew Caillard MW / 陆江摄影

Andrew Caillard MW虽然是英国人,但却是公认的澳大利亚葡萄酒权威,而且他对中国葡萄酒产区也相当熟悉——他曾走访中国10年之久,拍摄了一部与特定时期中国葡萄酒市场,消费理念,中国国产酒相关的获奖纪录片“红色痴迷(Red Obsession)”。

前几天我在澳洲走访维多利亚州产区时,看到一些名庄的酒屋(Cellar Door)里摆着“兰顿(Langton)的等级表”, 后来和当地葡萄酒工作者交流时知道,在澳洲精品酒市场,尤其拍卖和收藏领域,兰顿榜有着主导的影响力。

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陆江酒评词:

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2014
青柠,柑橘,白桃,油脂,中等酒体,酸度强劲贯穿,果味充沛,有一定集中度,口中有矿物感,有层次感,细腻,回味长。

Giaconda estate vineyard Chardonnay 2011
香气充沛,烤坚果,橘子,热带水果,香草,复杂,精致;中重酒体,酸度强,酒体和酸度整合不错,很平衡,集中,富有层次,香气丰富,回味长。实力强劲,有国际一线的勃艮第顶级夏朵内(Chardonnay)生产商Cochy Dury的风格。

Moss wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑莓,香料,黑醋栗,雪茄盒,精致气息,中重酒体,酸度中强活跃,单宁细致中强,平衡,回味长。

Penfolds(奔富) 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
黑醋栗,香草,雪茄盒,香料,咖啡豆,细致均衡的香气,重酒体,单宁强细致耐嚼,酸度中强,平衡,回味长,咖啡豆。

Jim Barry Clare valley the Armagh 2008 Shiraz
太妃糖,咖啡豆,香料,奶油,还有明显桉树叶气息,重酒体,单宁中强,质地厚实,酸度中强,饱满庞大,回味长。

Clarendon hills  Astralis  Syrah  2006
皮革,动物,黑巧克力,果酱,雪茄盒,甜香料,奶油,咖啡豆,复杂,重酒体,饱满庞大,单宁强但优雅细致,均衡分布,层次丰富,回味长。

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