“风骚”酒聚

“微然,有好酒!!”

和李宁大哥的酒聚总是开始与这句,有时候连哄带吓加忽悠,他办起来的酒聚有时候让人难于拒绝。

聚会的地点在一家唤作“风骚浙人”的餐厅,在金宝街边一个不起眼的小巷子旁。老板夫妻俩个是虔诚的基督教徒,爱好广泛,尤其喜爱这老上海的调调。内部的摆设,音乐,雕花窗棂之间,无不突出一个“骚”字。或许是老板是位设计师的缘故,菜品的摆盘都很有讲究,简单却精致。

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酒聚的主角是一款南部的Super VDP,庄主比较叛逆,在南部用了100% Merlot, 自动的脱离了AOC的大部队。

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La Chaume bellae domini, VDP vendee, Merlot 2004

酒塞满是乌梅的味道,想象这款酒约摸是要走甜美易饮的风格,但这香气却比想象当复杂的多倒入杯中,藏红花,豆蔻的味道首先涌现,其次就是那酒塞上乌梅的味道,而后,肉条,风干火腿的气息也飘散开来。酒体丰满醇厚,酸度很高,作为用梅洛酿的酒倒是不多见,单宁有力但十分柔顺点状发力让人想寻得一块多汁的牛排大快朵颐。收尾是令人满意的甜香。

很不错的一款酒,暂时还没有进入中国市场,如果定价合适,会有不错的销路。当天搭配的是梅菜扣肉,烧肉做成豆腐块状,肥而不腻,但是瘦肉部分肉质有些粗糙,配搭相对较高的单宁让人有些烦躁。但和肥肉是绝妙的配搭。始终觉得强壮有力的单宁还是要配搭多汁滑嫩的肉质才能与单宁的收敛感相互平衡。

另外尝到一个基本款的优级波尔多,价格不贵,性价比不错的一款。

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Chateau Manoubrey, Bordeaux Superieur, 2008

皮革,樱桃和许多讨喜的红色浆果,中等酒体,偏瘦,酸度很高,淡淡的烟熏的味道和少许青椒的气息,余韵中略带有蓝莓的甜美味道。

和你在一起 Chateau D’yquem 伊甘酒庄

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

Chateau D’yquem 1997

深金黄色,开始带有肉条的味道,有些封闭,渐渐有些奶糖,话梅和杨桃的气息,后来还出现了硬质奶酪的味道.不错的酸甜平衡,内敛含蓄,口感细腻精致,口中还能感受到淡淡的蜂蜜,话梅的幽香。余韵绵长。

 

这还是学酒半年左右的酒评,翻翻以前的品酒记录本,看看稚嫩的文字,感慨这时间过的真快。记录的本子已经换了两个,从最初的随手小抄,到后来朋友送的Moleskine Wine Journal, 再到如今随时随地都在记录拍照itouch。始终坚持用心记录,写真实的文字。

Chateau D’yquem 1988

非常漂亮的金黄色,略带茶色酒裙,刚开瓶时酒精味略浓。浓郁的蜂蜡,芒果,木瓜,杏干的味道,辅以烟熏和蜂蜜以及并不恼人的贵腐气息。香气浓郁度中等偏上并不是锋芒毕露,热情奔放的酒。但优雅精致,让人不忍触碰。酒体饱满丰腴,甜度中等偏上,酸度很高,但酸甜平衡非常好,酸度发力非常持续。杏干的味道在口中尤其后段非常明显,略微有些苦柚的味道,余韵绵长,令人惊喜。口中桔子果酱的味道久久挥之不去,勾人心魄。如同致命旅程当中的angelina jolie 已有哪勾魂摄魄的美丽,却让你觉得在那美丽的外表当下,仍有值得你去探索和寻味的神秘。持续不断的酸度,总是把已飘忽到别处的思绪,又紧紧抓住。

这是去年年底的酒评,学酒已经一年有余。那一段是喝顶级酒最密集的时候,从开始的偶尔炫耀,到后来认真体会好酒的气度。到遇见1988年的Chateau D’yquem才体会到女人的优雅在于含蓄而且虚怀若谷。

Chateau D’yquem 1996

老金黄色,香气清新而浓郁,杏干,蜂蜡,糯米纸和少许青木瓜的味道接踵而来。丰满的酒体,有力的酸度支撑,相当深邃凝缩,一如既往地优雅迷人,口中熟橘的味道甜美馥郁。余韵中依旧有些许苦柚的味道,辅以蜂蜡的特殊气息,令人回味。

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回归平淡的酒评,褪去浮夸,只是和朋友分享当时当刻对酒的体会,给人们展现最真实的文字。

学酒的日子里,幸运的总有D’yquem的相伴,每次都有新的体会,每次都有新的感悟。

和你在一起, Chateau D’yquem!

2011.07.09万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列79,相逢伊甘(D’yquem)之甜蜜四重奏

Sylvia Chen 陈微然

期待了将近了两个月的甜酒品鉴,终于如期举行。会员们的热情加之几款实力甜白陪伴我们度过了一个真正“甜蜜”的午后。

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Chateau D’yquem 1996

老金黄色,香气清新而浓郁,杏干,蜂蜡,糯米纸和少许青木瓜的味道接踵而来。丰满的酒体,有力的酸度支撑,相当深邃凝缩,一如既往地优雅迷人,口中熟橘的味道甜美馥郁。余韵中依旧有些许苦柚的味道,辅以蜂蜡的特殊气息,令人回味。

Northern Ice Vidal Ice Wine Niegara Peninsula 2005

像古金器一般的老金黄色,黄桃,芒果,苹果汁和少许杏干和奶糖的味道,尽管香气有些简单,但香甜醉人。酒体丰满,入口非常清新,口中充斥着蜂蜜的气息,酸度很不错,后段略有凸现,有些剥离。也许是在伊甘之后品饮的缘故,余韵感觉有些短促。

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中间一只失足掉落的小虫,是谁说的“葡萄酒中死,做鬼也风流”?

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Rotta Winery, Black Monukka, Paso Robles, NV

淡琥珀色,让人捉摸不透的复杂气味,伴随核桃,坚果的味道而来的,有些焦糖和雪莉的味道,整体的感觉有点像威士忌和白兰地的混合气味。入口十分惊艳,有种晒过日光浴后的全身暖洋洋的舒爽。中重酒体,入口轻柔顺滑。甘草,焦糖还有浓郁的罗汉果,枣汤的味道在口中持久停留。虽说有19%的酒精含量,但是在口中完全没有酒精的灼热感,余韵绵长。

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记得去年在酒庄的时候,庄主很严肃的告诉我说这里葡萄的生长环境很恶劣,葡萄园有不错的微气候和土壤。由于砾石和石灰石的含量比较多,所以葡萄几乎都是扎根于石头上生长。再看看庄主的照片,多么朴实的农民,却酿造出多么惊艳的好酒!

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记得去年去这家酒庄的时候,庄主兴奋又略带着些炫耀的对我说,他们几乎是世界上唯一一家用Black Monukka(右图)酿酒的酒庄。多少带着点怀疑,上了UC Davis的网站查询这种葡萄的资料,发现这个原产印度,由英国人带入加州的葡萄品种的确非常少见。一般是用来食用,少有用作酿酒的。不过整个活动下来,大家都觉得这款用无味高度酒中智发酵,入桶陈年2年并同时在阳光下直晒,最终通过Solera System做调配的葡萄酒大加赞叹。说不定Black Monukka也会成为喜欢猎奇的加州酒厂们的新宠儿呢!

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目音频

中国国际广播电台CRI采访北京万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部节目(首席葡萄酒顾问陆江)

Wineonline Wine School  –  Wineonline Wine Club

音频点击: CRI-Wineonline wine club

(China Now!)Wine-tasting classes popular in Beijing 

Anchor:

How much knowledge do you know about wine? Can you tell the difference between wines from different places? Do you know your manners when drinking wine in various social situations? More and more Chinese people, especially white collars, are taking wine training classes not only for better networking but also to enjoy the rich culture of wine.

Du Lijun has more.

Reporter:

(Ambience: Teacher’s talking and students’ discussion)

This is a wine training class of Wine Online Culture, a company that conducts wine-tasting courses and promotes wine culture in Beijing. After learning the typical characters of wines produced from Spain and America, the teacher asks students to sip some of them and then to describe the different tastes.

Xu Xinrui, who is attending the training class for the first time, is very interested in wine. She said two years ago she knew nothing about the wine, but now knowledge of wine means a lot to her.

[SB1, Xu, in Chinese]

“I am working for a magazine specializing in alcoholic drinks. Due to this, I need to learn as much as I can about them, and I’ve found out wine is getting more and more popular among Chinese people. It’s a social fashion. I need to know wine in a professional way. I feel good in the class.”

Xu says at the beginning she just wanted to increase her knowledge about wine. After trying the wine in some small sips, she fell in love with it.

Unlike European countries, China historically didn’t have a wine-drinking tradition. Wine is a comparatively new thing in China.

Lu Jiang, chief wine advisor of Wine Online Culture Company, says the original idea of organizing wine training classes was to help those who are in need of wine knowledge. Most of his clients are hotels’ service staffers or people who want to become a wine taster.

But now things have changed; many ordinary people come to his class. They believe wine can help them become more sociable. At the same time, they also want to discover the real charm of wine.

[SB, Lu, in Chinese]
“Wine itself has a rich culture. During our two-day class you can only scratch the surface. What I would like to do is to introduce wine culture to each one of my students. I open the door for them to discover the wine. I myself think wine has its own charming taste. In social situations, wine is a symbol of being elegant and graceful. That is also the reason which explains why wine has become increasingly trendy in China, especially among the middle class.”

Zhao Hang became the fan of wine in 2006. He says since the very beginning he knew he made a very smart choice.

[SB3, Zhao, in Chinese]

“I love it. Five years ago I just graduated from the college to start my first job. And I thought I needed some new interests in my life. I found wine. I chose it because I thought wine contained a lot of Western culture. Through wine I can learn about Western countries. Now I am proud of my wine knowledge – its benefits for my social connection is just one side. What is more important is that I’ve discovered the true spirit of wine.”

(Ambience of drinking wine)

The latest figures show that the volume of wine consumed in China doubled from 2005 and 2009. And during this period, some amateurs become professional.

Chen Weiran, who is now an assistant of Lu Jiang, says wine has brought her a totally new life.

[SB4, Chen, in Chinese]

“I fell in love wine at the first taste. I like all kinds of wine. Sometimes only seeing wine without drinking it will make me happy. I enjoy the tastes of different wines and the culture of them. Wine has become an integral part in my life. Before becoming an assistant I was working in the IT field. Now instead of facing all those boring charts and diagrams, tasting the different flavors of wine has helped me rediscover the beauty of life.”

For whatever reason people start to drink wine, many of them are becoming interested in it and eventually are discovering the glamour of wine.

For CRI, I’m Du Lijun.