万欧兰葡萄酒俱乐部系列148活动总结“西西里岛活火山上产出的葡萄酒”

你知道的,上周日我们又开了局,喝的是意大利西西里岛Etna火山区出产的葡萄酒。

所喝到的Terre Nere酒庄虽然相对年轻,但在诸如贝丹德梭、大红虾、Wine Spectator、Wine Enthusiast等权威媒体的年度评选中,常能看到他家的身影,不仅具备火山区葡萄酒的典型性,且可代表当地最高水准。不过酒庄虽然年轻,葡萄藤可是年代久远,我们当天喝到的酒款,平均树龄在50-60年左右,而压轴酒款更是经历过根瘤蚜虫时代幸存下来的140年老藤,传说中凤毛麟角的存在,年产量仅有2,500-3,000 瓶。
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陆江老师先简单讲解了产区优势,作为西西里岛上难得能下雪的地方,Etna火山拥有适宜葡萄生长的高山气候,拥有较大温差、少菌害的生长环境和未经嫁接的葡萄藤,火山喷发累积带来复杂的地形地貌和土壤结构极大增强了口感的丰富性。。。当然本着多喝酒少啰嗦的原则,更多的理论则还是由大家端起酒杯实战体会。让人印象深刻的是每一款酒都具有极为鲜明的火石(火山灰)气息,不同葡萄园出品的酒款都如教科书般的展示了神奇产区的神奇特质。酸度活跃,单宁强劲却细致的小众品种Nerello Mascalese也确不让人失望。

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陆江老师亲自从产区背回的土和石头,闻着和酒还真是一个味儿啊

以下为陆江老师的品酒笔记,仅供参考:

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco 2012
年产量:40,000 瓶 | 树龄:25 -60 年
Indicativeblend: Carricante 50%, Cataratto 25%, Grecanico 15% and Inzolia 10%.
火山石,火石主导,硫的气息,白桃,后逐渐有香草,黄油气息,中等酒体,酸度高,贯穿前后,有一定集中度,回味长,有柑橘气息。

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Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2012
年产量:90,000瓶 | 树龄:6- 50 年
NerelloMascalese 超过95%,Nerello Cappuccio
浅酒红色,肉汁,香料,果味,火石气息明显,中重酒体,酸度中高,有一定集中度,单宁中强,分布均衡,回味中长。入门级能表现如此,已属相当不错。

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere EtnaRosso Feudo e Mezzo 2011
年产量:5,000-6,000瓶 | 树龄:50-80年
NerelloMascalese 超过95%,Nerello Cappuccio
火石依旧明显,香料,樱桃,一丝果酱,中重酒体,酸度中强贯穿,活跃,集中,单宁强,细致,完整骨架,平衡,回味长。

TenutaDelle Terre NereEtna Rosso Calderara Sottana 2011
年产量: 8,000to 9,000瓶 | 树龄: 50 -100 年
NerelloMascalese 超过95%,Nerello Cappuccio
细致火石气息明显,西方香料,黑樱桃,烤樱桃,一丝黑巧克力,重酒体,比较厚实的单宁,完整骨架,较大结构,酸度中强,一定集中度,回味长。

TenutaDelle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Guardiola 2011
年产量:8,000-9,000瓶 | 树龄:50 -70 年
NerelloMascalese 超过95%,Nerello Cappuccio
香料,黑樱桃,火石明显,咖啡豆,单宁强劲,厚实,很干,收敛,骨架完整清晰,结构感明显,酸度中等略强,回味长。很雄性的一款!
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Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Prephylloxera 2008
年产量:2,500-3,000瓶 | 树龄:130-140年
NerelloMascalese 超过95%,Nerello Cappuccio
西方香料,黑巧克力,泥土气息,皮革,果味为主,一丝矿物,后段才透出火石气息,重酒体,单宁强,成熟,厚实细致,集中,有些封闭,醒两个多小时,逐渐显现出庞大结构,酸度中强活跃,回味长。有很强陈年实力,8年光阴似乎被停滞了。现在很能理解为什么西西里专家Bill Nesto MW书里说Nerello Mascalese有黑皮诺和内比奥罗合体的特质。

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最后的拍卖环节果然是不让人失望的大福利环节,甚至出现了拍卖官屡次想要原价回购,却惨遭拒绝的场景。小伙伴们还不厚道的发了拍卖酒酒价上升趋势的分析图来给伤口撒盐。拍卖酒款中也包括当天的压轴酒款,140年老藤的Etna Rosso Prephylloxera,居然是被他们家国内唯一代理商,也是我们本次活动的赞助商拍走了。。。因为这个限量的酒款是陆江老师的私藏,代理商也是拿不到的。。。你知道这个酒有多值得了么,是不是已经因为没有来参加而默默流泪了,那下次真的不要再错过了哦!下期见了。

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拍的开心的小伙伴主动带上了牛头道具

最后的最后,大力致谢一下合作方,欢迎大家关注他们(也欢迎更多品牌,场地或其它机构与我们合作):

本次活动部分酒样赞助:
酒之吻国际贸易有限公司 由Mr Cliff See先生于1997年成立于香港,总公司在香港中环开有超过3600平米的专业酒窖。澳门,上海,北京当地均有开立分公司。独家代理酒庄近百个,单品五百余种,选取世界各地优秀具有卓越品质的红酒带来中国大陆市场。也是Tenuta Delle Terre Nere的进口商。

本次活动场所支持:
葡道 隶属澳洲Woolworth’s Liquor Group酒业集团旗下,拥有900多家国际酒庄品牌的授权正品。是北京Wine boutique中的佼佼者。

&俱乐部会员寒同学:赞助好吃的披萨和火腿来搭酒。
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拉菲集团总裁确认拉菲传奇系列将换酒标

文:陆江(Maxime LU)|葡萄酒在线

Vinexpo Hongkong是亚太区最重要的酒展,自然也是对中国市场关注的国际酒业大咖,进行商务合作交流、社交和媒体曝光的重要舞台。中国市场表现上佳的拉菲罗斯柴尔德集团(简称拉菲集团,缩写DBR)总裁克里斯托夫·沙林(Christophe Salin,后面简称Salin先生)也来到香港。我提前几天约好了对他的专访。Salin先生就我关注的问题,进行了简答。

CLR_0357-02-960x591

拉菲集团董事长埃里克·罗斯柴尔德男爵(左)和拉菲集团总裁克里斯托夫·沙林(右)

首先是正值波尔多2015年份期酒发布期间,拉菲集团旗下已陆续有酒庄发布价格,而作为风向标的以拉菲为代表的五大酒庄还没出价,这是市场密切关注的焦点。所以我让Salin先生简单介绍一下2015对于拉菲是如何评价的年份,定价策略是否与已发布的酒庄期酒类似,大概会考量哪些因素,已发布的旗下酒庄期酒销售状况如何?:

Salin: 对于拉菲集团旗下的波尔多酒庄来说,2015是个非常出色的年份(Exceptional year)。拉菲集团旗下的酒庄们,各自情况不同,所以定价策略也会不同,具体定价一般会参考以往年份的现在市场价格情况,还有2015年份各个酒庄的具体产量等因素,发布的应该是市场相对低价,以保证购买期酒者会有相应的差价空间。到现在为止,前期已发布2015年份期酒价格的旗下酒庄,整体销售情况表现很好,已售罄。

lafitelogo

拉菲集团在中国山东蓬莱合作投资的酒庄近况,也是我关注点,我让Salin先生简单介绍现在的进度。

Salin:拉菲集团在山东蓬莱的合资酒庄,还有一年就将完成整体的设施建设,正一步步推进中。葡萄园里最老的葡萄藤已有四、五年藤龄。现任管理者是酒庄总经理Olivier Richaud,酒庄在建设中获得了不少来自于当地政府的支持。酒庄所有的葡萄苗木都是来自于法国,由于我们拉菲集团自己并不生产苗木,所以都是采购于于法国专业苗木生产商。

penglai

拉菲集团位于中国山东蓬莱的合资酒庄

我向Salin先生提到拉菲集团是否在中国有相应的市场战略规划,Salin先生特别提到,现在ASC精品葡萄酒公司在全权负责拉菲集团产品在中国市场的销售,所以各司其职,拉菲集团并不直接涉及中国市场的推广和销售规划,更多扮演的是生产商的角色。

由于电商在中国的普及,而且拉菲集团产品在国内销售数量有不小比例是来自于电商,所以Salin先生本人对在线购物是什么态度,也引起我的兴趣。Salin先生很坦白地谈到,他本人作为消费者基本不会采用这一购买方式,还自嘲自己比较老派。不过最后他特别加了一句,有一项他会在线订购,那就是音乐。

最近听说拉菲传奇(Lafite legende)系列的酒标将会有变动,我也特别求证Salin先生。他肯定的说,的确要更换拉菲传奇系列的酒标。因为原来拉菲传奇系列的不同源产地名号(AOC/AOP)的产品酒标,仅在文字标示上有区分:Bordeaux,Medoc,Saint-Emilion,Pauillac,这经常给消费者带来困惑和混淆,所以这次用不同的图案来区别不同的AOC/AOP产品,可以大大方便消费者区分购买。当然具体图案还在保密阶段,今年下半年9月左右将会正式发布。

legende1

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采访者:陆江(Maxime LU)

– 曾为Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛(Decanter Asia Wine Awards),意大利南部葡萄酒大赛(Puglia)、葡萄牙葡萄酒挑战大赛-Wines of Portugal Challenge(Lisboa)等国际国内葡萄酒大赛专家评委;美食美酒旅游类撰稿人,《葡萄酒在线》专栏撰稿人、《Decanter中文版-醇鉴中国》撰稿人,ProWine中文版网站专栏撰稿人,葡萄酒行业咨询顾问,万欧兰葡萄酒教育首席讲师,资深葡萄酒收藏顾问。

那些好喝到爆的,清酒里的气泡酒

文:王智慧 | 葡萄酒在线

这里说的不是葡萄酿造的香槟,而是大米酿造的日本清酒中的气泡酒。我们似乎习惯用清酒代指日本酒,不过此处必须强调一下,这包括一些视觉效果上同日文中“澄清酒”相对的浊酒,特意只经过粗滤不进行澄清,酒液内仍留有混浊。下文提及到的气泡中不少都是浊酒。

日本酒近年不知怎么了一窝蜂的开始向起泡酒发力。且目标明确,不走复杂难懂路线,厂牌的口碑大都建立在讨喜易饮上。感觉是日本酒业对于平常不太喝日本酒的人发起的垂死(?)反攻。

以下为有关日本气泡酒的任性的个人排名。

备注1:小编喜甜你们都知道的
备注2:不涉及坊间常见(读作便利店有卖)的澪(みお宝酒社)和歌方(うたかた月桂冠),这两款都是大酒厂的量化产品。不是偏见,是单纯的没有个性和特点可言,没有可比性。

1. FLOWERSNOW(フラワースノー)
酒厂:西田酒造

flower4

上榜理由:比起獺祭,Flower Snow列在前面是因为性价比。一瓶不足千元(日元)。

微果味,自然甘甜,入口轻松。早春纯米,吟酿规格的气泡酒。注意喷发气势很猛,不做好准备流一地。

所以电影和小黄书里香槟总是和浴缸搭配出现,个人觉的可能是出于实际操作需要,爆发出的泡泡和浴缸里的泡泡融为一体,还不会弄脏衣服。

缺点:出品数量少买不着。类似这种限量酒就得买着了赶紧发朋友圈秀一下,告诉他们有钱不是重点,我在喝Flower Snow。

2. 獺祭 发泡浊酒50 (発泡にごり酒50)
酒蔵:旭酒造

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上榜理由:獭祭全都是精米步合50%以下的纯米大吟酿,不好喝才有鬼。

口感柔和清甜。送女友极佳。配甜点不错。

看浊酒冒泡泡的过程自己也会产生骨头里冒泡泡的轻盈感。

缺点:没必要成为起泡酒。不知道怎么最近成为了山口县地酒。号称梦幻之酒。贵的不像样,当然口味还是不错。

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*备注1. 步合:酿造术语,指磨过之后的米占原本玄米(糙米)的数量。清酒会去掉糠和胚芽等表层部分,用磨过之后剩余的部分酿酒。

备注2:发泡酒使用直接添加碳酸气体和瓶内二次发酵两种方式。这里所列的基本都属于高级些的后者。与其说是好喝的起泡日本酒不如说是好喝的日本酒起了泡(某酒友恶毒而认真地表示放了气后更好喝)。

3. 発泡純米酒 ねね
酒厂:酒井酒造

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上榜理由:同是山口县。同样是瓶内二次发酵。度数低,都说有桃味,我觉得是梨啊。
稍微有点沉淀,总体来说酒液澄清。
果味充沛,依然是清爽甜美的代言人。

缺点:只有5.5度。只好当水喝。

备注又出现了:类似于ねね的还有相对比较有名的宮城県一ノ蔵的铃音(すず音)。从1998年就开始售卖,在量贩品出现之前几乎是发泡清酒的代名词,霸占市场份额十余年(当然你们知道的,市场本身也很小)。在气泡日本酒热潮到来之前独领风骚或者说孤军奋战。也是五度左右的低度酒。这个卖萌的名字的来由是酒液倒进杯子里时纤细气泡浮起又破灭的声音。

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4. 梵 プレミアムスパーリング
酒厂:加藤吉平商店

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上榜理由:獭祭一年四季只用50%以下的精米已经很要命了。梵把特A产地(口吉川)的山田錦削到只剩20%。价格自然也。。。你懂的。

对于“也不需要扔掉80%这么浪费吧!”的疑问,据说是先后尝试过了50%和35%步合后,确认还是20%最好!酵母也是自行开发的。生酵母直接装瓶,发酵一个月后放进零下八度的冰温熟成库沉睡至少十个月后上市。

2014年Wine Glass日本酒起泡酒类别的最高金奖获得者。包装和瓶子也是土豪风,瓶子据说还是法国进口的香槟瓶。官方自称是与奶酪相配的终极气泡日本酒,鉴于是一家很热衷进军海外的酒厂,这大概是想挑战香槟地位。

缺点:奢侈,贵

5. 八海山 発泡浊酒
酒厂:八海醸造

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上榜理由:由于偏见,表单上目前都是甜口和超甜口。这里补充一个重口的。

入口有点辣辣的啦。酸度活跃香气馥郁,很像是cider。这个酒精度数是比较正常的14.5%,是前面NENE和铃音的三倍,正经多了,好评。

清浊度如上图

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JD.com: Mapping the landscape of online wine sales in China

By Maxime Lu / 陆江

Published on DecanterChina.COM, Chinese version of Decanter.

2 March 2016

In recent years, online retailers and their highly efficient delivery systems have largely changed people’s shopping habits in China. Such changes made online shopping one of the most important and fast-growing channels for Chinese consumers to purchase wine.

Read our exclusive interview with ZHAO Dabin, head of the wine department of Chinese online retail giant JD.com, to learn about the scale and current state of its rapidly growing wine business.

134951_jd-com-zhao-dabin-liu-qiangdong-twe-signing-croppedImage: ZHAO Dabin (right on the front) and LIU Qiangdong of JD.com signing agreement with Treasury Wine Estates

The scale of the business

As one of the biggest online retailers in China, JD.com launched its wine business at the end of 2010, ZHAO Dabin, head of JD.com’s wine department, told DecanterChina.com.

Wines sold on the site come from two sources, Zhao explained; JD.com works as an importer to buy wines from abroad and sell it directly, but it also serves as a ‘shopping mall’ for wine merchants to host their own shops.

The wine sales from both channels now account for a quarter of the retailer’s total annual sales of alcoholic beverages, which is expected to fetch CNY10.5bn (GBP1.1bn) in 2016.

‘Chinese white spirit (Baijiu),’ said Zhao, ‘still occupies the vast majority of the sales.’

In 2015, JD.com imported and sold CNY400m’s worth of wines itself, and the number is expected to triple in 2016. The sales through the merchants, on the other hand, are expected to hit CNY1.5bn, three times the amount of 2015, according to the retailer.

These estimates may still be ‘too conservative’, said Zhao, as JD.com has already sold 100m RMB’s worth of wine on its own from the start of 2016 to 20th January. ‘For January only, we have achieved four times the sales of last year.

Direct import vs merchants

Though JD’s direct wine import and sales business is growing rapidly, Zhao doesn’t believe that it would pose significant threat to merchants who sell their wines through JD.com.

‘Not all the wines are suitable to be sold by JD.com,’ explained Zhao.

For brands that are dealt by JD.com directly ‘they need to share a fixed amount of gross profit with us’, and their sales figures need to ‘keep up the pace’ of the fast-growing online retailer. JD.com would evaluate the performance of its own brands, and ‘eliminate’ the underperformers.

In fact, currently wine merchants take up a bigger chunk of the wine sales on JD.com, said Zhao. More and more merchants come organically or are invited by JD.com to build their own online stores. ‘The number of merchants defines the growths of the sales.’

The vast consumer base also suggests the size of the market. At the moment, wine consumers on JD.com are mainly office workers from Beijing, Shanghai and Guangdong, said Zhao. In late 2016, the retailer plans to reach out to villages and third and fourth tier cities.

‘Most of our wine consumers are still at entry level, though there are so many wine brands out there,’ said Zhao, pointing out that ‘only 3% to 4%’ among JD.com’s vast number of registered users buy wines at the moment. ‘There’re still plenty of room to grow.’

134952_jd-interview-decanter-2015-shanghai-fine-wine-encounter

Image: Chinese consumers at 2015 Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter

Domestic wines vs Imported wines

In 2015, China has imported significantly more bottled wines compared to 2014. The Free Trade Agreement signed between China and Australia is believed to pose more challenges to China’s domestic wine producers in the next few years.

Currently domestic wines account for 30% of JD.com’s self-run wine business, whereas imported wines take up 70%. Zhao believes that other major online retailers, such as Tmall.com and Yhd.com, rely ‘even less’ on domestic wines.

Among the merchants on JD.com, 15% of the brands they sell are domestic, although the sales volume of domestic wines is ‘slightly more’ than that of imported wines, said Zhao.

Though the growths of imported wines are constantly put under the spotlight, in the third or even fourth tier cities in China, domestic wines still dominate the market. ‘Imported wines still can’t break into the smaller cities,’ said Zhao, ‘although in the first and second tier cities, the sales of imported wines are almost equal to that of domestic wines.’

Facing such challenge, domestic producers are seeking to expand their business.

The two biggest wine producers in China, Changyu and Great Wall, ‘are still among the top three best-selling brands on JD.com,’ said Zhao, adding that the two brands alone take up over 90% of the sales of domestic wines on the platform.

134953_jd-interview-decanter-2015-shanghai-fine-wine-encounter-reading-bookletImage: Chinese wine lovers at 2015 Decanter Shanghai Fine Wine Encounter

The most popular price ranges

The top countries for imported wines on JD.com are led by France and followed by Australia, Chile, Spain, Italy and America. The most popular price ranges on the online retailer, according to Zhao, are ‘under 50RMB’ and ‘50-100RMB’.

The ‘under 50RMB’ tier is dominated by Spanish table wines. Among wines priced 50-100RMB, consumers can find entry-level wines from the Domaines Baron de Rothschild (Lafite) and branded wines such as those from Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat, Yellow Tail and Casillero del Diablo of Concha y Toro.

The range of ‘100-200RMB’, however, showed the most significant growth among JD.com’s self-run brands, said Zhao.

‘We work as an importer and retailer at the same time, so we won’t add too high margins. This is a very popular price range in the general market as well.’

JD.com is also keen to develop its fine wine portfolio, namely those priced at 200 to 500 RMB. The sales during 2015 and the Spring Festival period in 2016 showed the potential of these wines.

‘None of the online retailers would satisfy on selling only the entry-level wines. We need to go upstream.’

The effect of the austerity policy

‘The austerity policies have brought no negative effect to JD.com what-so-ever; if anything, it was beneficial to us,’ said Zhao.

‘The anti-corruption drive mainly tackled the mid-to-higher range products. JD.com, on the contrary, is a retailer targeting the mass consumers.’

The bubbles of the mid-to-higher range have now burst, bringing the price back to the reasonable range. ‘More and more people were looking for value-for-money wines, which was great news for us,’ said Zhao. ‘While overall the industry struggled to grow, we managed to triple our wine sales from 2014 to 2015.’

Choosing the right supplier

Now five years in the wine business, JD.com believe its biggest challenge comes from the supply chain.

The suppliers can’t necessarily foresee the scale of the sales, thus may struggle to prepare enough stock for the fast-growing retailer, said Zhao.

Facing such challenges, in 2016 JD.com intend to re-evaluate its 1300 wine products by regions, and to focus its resources on fewer but better brands and suppliers. However, the adjustment should not interfere with the growth, Zhao said, ‘we should be able to keep growing at the rate of 300% to 400% (per year).’

About 2016

Speaking about China’s wine market in 2016, ‘I don’t expect an explosive growth,’ said Zhao.‘We still don’t have enough wine consumers in China, which is why we need to encourage more consumers to start drinking wine. Meanwhile, we need to further control the distribution costs, and provide down-to-earth prices to consumers.’Coming next month:JD.com: Controlling the authenticity and quality of wine products

Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦

Source:    https://www.decanterchina.com/en/knowledge/people/importers/jd-com-mapping-the-landscape-of-online-wine-sales-in-china-part-i

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